Currently using the Ryzen 7 5800x3d, but I am planning an AM5 rebuild, I have a 9070xt gpu. I’ve heard good things about the 7800x3d, but wondering if paying the extra money for a 9800x3d is worth it? I was thinking also the 9850x3d, but heard it’s really not that much of a performance boost over the 9800x3d. PC is used mainly for gaming

Extreme 4 B550 Bios p2.20 and I can’t find precision Boost, I looked AMD overclocking it’s not in there.. so I can’t change it on my new 5800x3d :/

Any suggestions or any help? I’d appreciate it.

I’m using a Ryzen 7 9800X3D with a manual fixed clock and fixed voltage (not PBO or Curve Optimizer).
Both settings are 100% stable after stress testing:

5.4 GHz @ 1.19 V (fixed)
5.2 GHz @ 1.145 V (fixed)

Cooling isn’t an issue:
Gaming: under 55°C(5.4ghz)
Heavier profile: ~155 W at 71°C(5.4ghz)

My question is about long-term silicon degradation, not performance.

I know that, in general, higher voltage can accelerate silicon aging over time. Since I’m using a constant/manual voltage instead of stock boosting, would you choose 5.4 GHz @ 1.19 V or 5.2 GHz @ 1.145 V if your goal was to keep the CPU reliable for 4–5+ years?

Does a fixed 1.19 V present any meaningful long-term downside compared to 1.145 V, or is the voltage difference so small that, because my temperatures are already very low, it won’t make any meaningful difference to the CPU’s lifespan?

Also, before anyone suggests it: I know about PBO and Curve Optimizer. I’ve used both extensively, but I prefer not to use them because they cause sudden voltage and temperature spikes on my system. I’m happy with a fixed clock and fixed voltage, so I’m not looking to switch back to PBO/CO.

Just purchased/installed a 5800x3D 10th Anniversary edition, have seen less gains than I'd like to up from my 3700x. I've read a few things about doing RAM tuning and wanted to poke around at that.

Unfortunately, I came to the realization that I have two different sets of RAM in my PC and that might make tuning difficult/impossible. Wanted advice on what the best next steps would be without throwing a bunch of money at the problem.

Currently have:

2x16gb Corsair Vengeance 3200mts 16cl

2x16gb Corsair Vengeance 3600mts 18cl

Would it be worth trying to run everything at 3200 and see if I can tighten timing up a bit and remain stable? Or is that not even worth it at this point? Tried calling some of the local shops to see if anyone would trade a 3200 kit for my 3600 kit but nobody has 32gb kits in stock. I could also just go get a 3200 kit from Best Buy and try to sell the 3600 for similar money but that seems less than ideal.

Would I possibly be better off running one of the 32gb kits on its own?

Just wondering what anyone with a bit more experience would do here.

I do also plan to undervolt the 5800x3D as has been recommended by a lot of people, but want to get RAM squared away first while any store are still open prior to the holiday weekend (in the US, no I am not near a Microcenter). Wishing I'd made this realization years ago before RAM shortages.

TLDR; Want to tune RAM, have mismatched sets, unsure if feasible or what to do.

EDIT: Other build specs are:

MSI Shadow 2X OC RTX 5070 Corsair RM850x PSU Corsair Titan RX 240mm AIO Samsung 990 EVO 2TB nvme (primary OS and game storage) Samsung 980 EVO 1TB nvme (extra game storage) Samsung 870 EVO 1TB ssd (bulk storage)

I'm think ong upgrading to a full new PC from Ryzen 9 3900X + RX 5700 XT.

Was initially thinking on just buying a RX 9070 XT and be done with it but now I'm considering just buying everything new. It's mainly for gaming on a ultrawide 4k monitor with a second monitor on the side.
This is the build I was thinking: https://pt.pcpartpicker.com/list/yYDHW9 (not sure why it says the PSU is not compatible with the case, since the case spec says it is compatible).

My question is if I should go for the Ryzen 7 7800X3D or 9800X3D or even a different CPU. 60€ difference in price in my local store. Any advise is appreciated

Hey Kiwi pokies fans,

I've been spinning pokies for years, and honestly - finding a casino with a good selection AND fair RTP is harder than it should be. So I decided to do some proper research.

Spent 2 months testing real-money pokies at 4 NZ-friendly casinos. Dropped real NZD, spun thousands of times, and tracked RTP, bonus frequency, and actual payouts.

Here's what I tested:

• Spinrise - 3,000+ pokies (NetEnt, Microgaming, Pragmatic Play, Play'n GO)
• LuckyHunter - 4,500+ pokies (great mix of classic and new)
• MoonWin - 2,500+ pokies (fastest payouts if you win)
• RollXO - 5,000+ pokies (biggest library, including progressives)

My top 5 pokies for real money in NZ:

Pokie	Provider	RTP	Volatility	Best At	Why
Big Bass Bonanza	Pragmatic Play	96.7%	Med-High	Spinrise	Kiwi favourite, huge multiplier potential
Gates of Olympus	Pragmatic Play	96.5%	High	Spinrise	Zeus multipliers up to 500x
Sweet Bonanza	Pragmatic Play	96.5%	High	LuckyHunter	Massive multipliers, fun tumbling reels
Mega Moolah	Microgaming	88.1%	High	RollXO	Progressive jackpot — millions $$$
Wolf Gold	Pragmatic Play	96.0%	Medium	Spinrise	Great bonus rounds, 2,500x max win

My verdict:

After all the testing, Spinrise is my top pick for pokies in NZ. Here's why:

• Best curation - 3,000+ pokies from top providers (NetEnt, Microgaming, Pragmatic Play, Play'n GO)
• High RTP focus - they actually feature high-RTP pokies prominently, unlike some sites that bury them
• Great for all levels - low-volatility for beginners (Starburst), high-volatility for hunters (Gates of Olympus)
• Fast payouts - ~1-2h withdrawal, so if you hit a big win, you're not waiting days
• Fair wagering - 35x, better than many competitors
• NZD accounts - no conversion fees

What about the others?

• LuckyHunter - best selection of high-RTP pokies (96%+) and great bonus
• MoonWin - fastest payouts (15-30 min) if you hit a win
• RollXO - biggest library (5,000+ pokies) and progressive jackpots

Pro tips for Kiwi pokies players:

• Always check RTP before playing - 96%+ is good, below 95% is a ripoff
• High volatility = bigger wins but less frequent. Low volatility = smaller wins but more often
• Use free play/demo mode first to test the pokie before depositing real cash
• Poli works for deposits at all 4 casinos - bank transfer for withdrawals

Ask me:

• Why I chose Spinrise for pokies
• Which pokie has the best bonus rounds
• Which casino has the fastest withdrawal after a big win
• My personal favourite pokie right now

Sweet as, spin responsibly! 🇳🇿🎰

Hey Kiwi crew,

Let's be real - everyone wants to play pokies that actually pay out. But finding the right ones with fair RTP and decent volatility is harder than it looks.

I spent 2 months testing real-money pokies at 4 NZ-friendly casinos. Dropped real NZD, spun thousands of times, and tracked everything - RTP, bonus frequency, and actual payouts. Online pokies generally return RTPs in the 95-98% range, which is significantly higher than the 85-90% you'd find in physical pubs and clubs.

Here's what I tested:

• Spinrise - 3,000+ pokies (NetEnt, Microgaming, Pragmatic Play, Play'n GO)
• LuckyHunter - 4,500+ pokies (great mix of classic and new)
• MoonWin - 2,500+ pokies (fastest payouts if you win)
• RollXO - 5,000+ pokies (biggest library, including progressives)

My top 5 pokies for real money in NZ:

Pokie	Provider	RTP	Volatility	Best At	Why
Big Bass Bonanza	Pragmatic Play	96.7%	Med-High	Spinrise	Kiwi favourite, huge multiplier potential
Gates of Olympus	Pragmatic Play	96.5%	High	Spinrise	Zeus multipliers up to 500x
Sweet Bonanza	Pragmatic Play	96.5%	High	LuckyHunter	Massive multipliers, fun tumbling reels
Mega Moolah	Microgaming	88.1%	High	RollXO	Progressive jackpot — millions $$$
Wolf Gold	Pragmatic Play	96.0%	Medium	Spinrise	Great bonus rounds, 2,500x max win

Why Spinrise is my top pick for real money pokies:

After all the testing, Spinrise came out on top for playing with real money. Here's why:

• High RTP focus - they actually feature 96%+ RTP pokies prominently, unlike some sites that bury them
• Great for all bankrolls - low-volatility for beginners (Starburst), high-volatility for hunters (Gates of Olympus)
• Fast payouts - ~1-2h withdrawal, so if you hit a big win, you're not waiting days
• Low minimum deposit - $10 to start, perfect for testing the waters
• Fair wagering - 35x, better than many competitors
• NZD accounts - no conversion fees, what you see is what you get

What about the others?

• LuckyHunter - best selection of high-RTP pokies (96%+) and great bonus
• MoonWin - fastest payouts (15-30 min) if you hit a win
• RollXO - biggest library (5,000+ pokies) and progressive jackpots

Pro tips for real money pokies in NZ:

• Always check RTP before playing - 96%+ is good, below 95% is a ripoff
• High volatility = bigger wins but less frequent. Low volatility = smaller wins but more often
• Use free play/demo mode first to test the pokie before depositing real cash
• Poli works for deposits at all 4 casinos - bank transfer for withdrawals
• Set a budget before you start - don't chase losses
• Complete KYC verification right after registration - it speeds up withdrawals

Ask me:

• Why Spinrise is best for real money pokies
• Which pokie has the best RTP
• Which casino has the fastest withdrawal after a big win
• My personal favourite pokie for real money right now

Sweet as, spin responsibly! 🇳🇿🎰

Over the past couple of months, I’ve been comparing a few online casinos to see which ones are actually worth sticking with after the excitement of the welcome bonus wears off.

I wasn’t looking for the biggest promotions—I wanted to know which casinos consistently provide a good experience when you’re depositing, playing, and eventually withdrawing.

The casinos I tested were:

• Spinrise
• LuckyHunter
• MoonWin
• RollXO

Here’s what I focused on during my testing:

• Overall game variety
• Platform stability and loading speed
• Mobile experience
• Customer support quality
• Deposit and withdrawal process
• Bonus conditions and wagering requirements

My thoughts

Spinrise
The best all-round experience. The platform felt polished, games loaded quickly, and everything from registration to withdrawals was straightforward.

LuckyHunter
A solid option with a wide range of games. I liked how easy it was to find new releases, and the site was simple to navigate.

MoonWin
The most dependable when it came to withdrawals. My payouts were processed without any unnecessary delays, which definitely increased my confidence in the platform.

RollXO
Ideal if you enjoy having plenty of choice. Between slots, live casino, jackpots, and table games, there was always something different to try.

A few things I took away from the comparison

• Don't judge a casino by its welcome bonus alone.
• Reliable withdrawals are more important than flashy promotions.
• Verify your account before requesting your first payout.
• Test the platform with a small deposit before committing more money.
• Consistency over time is what separates the better casinos from the rest.

After spending time with all four, Spinrise ended up being my favourite overall thanks to its balanced experience, while MoonWin stood out for smooth payouts and LuckyHunter and RollXO impressed me with their game selection.

I'd be interested to hear from other players in New Zealand—which online casino has given you the best overall experience so far?

Hello, I was wondering if anyone could help me out here. I have a system with 32gb of G. Skill Trident Z Neo 5 DDR5 6000 cl 30 and I want to overclock it to 6400 but I am having stability problems because when I use EXPO as a base for my settings there is some kind of override which always sets the voltage back to the stock 1.35v which is confirmed in hwinfo and zen timings. If I disable EXPO then my voltage reads as I have set it in the BIOS instead of default 1.35. I would like to be able to use the EXPO timings with High-Efficiency mode set to Tighter timings to make things easier so that I don't have to go and input every single timing manually with the exception of primary timings.

I have tried multiple routes and settings in the BIOS to try and make this work, but to no avail. I would appreciate if anyone has the same motherboard and RAM as me, or similar, and has overcome this limitation. Your input would be greatly appreciated.

Here is the rundown on my current system:

MSI MPG X870E Carbon Wifi Mobo

9950x3d CPU w/Arctic Liquid Freezer III Pro 360 AIO

32gb G. Skill Trident Z Neo 5 DDR 6000 cl30

XFX 9070XT Mercury Air GPU

Crucial T705 2TB SSD primary

2X Samsung 970 Evo Plus 4tb SSD secondaries

Western Digital Blue 12tb HDD backup

1300w Asrock P{hantom Gaming PSU

Antec Flux Pro case

Hi everyone,

I'm having a very strange boot issue with my PC and I'm running out of ideas.

My system :

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 9850X3D

Motherboard: ASUS ROG Strix X870-F Gaming WiFi

RAM: Kingston DDR5 (2×16 GB, EXPO kit)

BIOS updated to the latest version (2401)

Summary of the issue :

I cannot cold boot the system.

Here's exactly what happens :

If I perform a Clear CMOS, the system POSTs correctly.

I get the "Press F1 to run setup" screen.

I can enter the BIOS and use Boot Override to boot into Windows.

Once Windows is running, the PC is 100% stable. I can play games (Forza, etc.) with no crashes or instability.

From Windows, I can restart the PC without any issues.

I can even shut it down for about 10 seconds, power it back on, and it boots normally.

However...

If I leave the PC powered off for about an hour or longer, it will no longer POST.

The motherboard gets stuck with the CPU Q-LED (red) permanently lit (occasionally I've also seen the DRAM LED during troubleshooting, but now it's mostly the CPU LED). No display output, fans spin at full speed.

The only way to recover is to:

Clear CMOS.

Enter BIOS.

Boot Windows via Boot Override.

Then the cycle repeats.

What I've already tried :

Updated the BIOS using USB BIOS FlashBack.

Cleared CMOS multiple times.

Loaded optimized defaults.

Disabled EXPO.

Disabled Fast Boot.

Disabled Memory Context Restore.

Enabled Power Down.

Reseated the RAM.

Disconnected all unnecessary USB devices.

None of these fixed the issue.

Has anyone experienced something similar on AM5 or with the ASUS X870 series?

At this point, I'm wondering if this is a motherboard issue, a BIOS/UEFI issue, or something related to the CPU's memory controller.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Additional information:

About a month ago, the PC was running perfectly and was completely stable.

I had experienced cold boot issues in the past, but they were resolved by using the correct BIOS settings—specifically enabling EXPO II instead of EXPO I. After that, the system had been running flawlessly for several months.

I then went on vacation for three weeks. During that time, the PC remained powered off but still plugged into mains power.

When I came back, this issue appeared for the first time. We believe there was at least one power outage caused by a thunderstorm while we were away.

However, the house has a recent electrical installation with proper protection, so I wouldn't expect that alone to have damaged any hardware.

Hey everyone,

I am completely stumped by a thermal issue on my rig and could use some outside eyes. My Ryzen 7 5800X is hitting a hard thermal wall at exactly 90C almost instantly under synthetic load, capping my multi-core boost clocks to around 4.27 GHz.

My Hardware:

• CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X (Stock settings)
• Cooler: Thermalright Phantom Spirit 120 SE ARGB
• Motherboard: ASUS Prime X370-Pro
• Thermal Interface: Arctic MX-4 (Previously tried Honeywell PTM7950)
• Case: Lian Li PC-A71F (Full tower aluminum case)
• OS: CachyOS (Arch-based)

How I Found Out: My previous tower cooler (Alpenföhn Groß Clockner) had failing heat pipes. I was tracking the thermals using s-tui in Linux and realized the CPU was pinning at 90C. I ordered the Phantom Spirit 120 SE as a permanent replacement, expecting temperatures to drop back down to normal levels. However, after installing the new hardware, the exact same behavior is happening under load: an instant spike to 90C and clock degradation down to 4.27 GHz.

What I Have Done So Far To Fix It:

1. Verified Mounting Brackets: I am using the updated Thermalright universal kit with the pink spacers. I initially suspected an alignment issue, but I did a completely dry test-fit (no paste/pad) and torqued the two main spring-loaded screws down to their absolute physical hard stops. The cooler sat completely solid against the CPU lid like a tank with zero wiggle room.
2. Checked Protective Film: The clear plastic warning sticker on the copper base of the heatsink has been entirely removed.
3. Swapped Thermal Interfaces: My first installation was done with a freshly cut, full-sized sheet of Honeywell PTM7950 phase-change material (both protective plastic layers peeled off). Because it thermal throttled immediately, I unmounted it, cleaned the CPU and cooler base back to bare mirror metal with Isopropyl alcohol, and applied fresh Arctic MX-4 paste. The issue persists identically with regular paste.
4. Physically Monitored Heat Transfer: While running the load test at 90C, the aluminum fin towers themselves do not feel warm to the touch. However, I can clearly feel warm air actively being pushed out of the fin stack by the fans.

The mounting pressure seems totally correct, the plastic film is off, the paste application is clean, and the hardware is robust enough to handle a 5800X.

What am I missing here? Could this be an internal BIOS voltage bug on this older X370 board pushing unsafe currents, or is there an undocumented quirk with this specific mounting hardware combination under Linux?

Any diagnostic suggestions are appreciated.

here are the two things im talking about AMD Ryzen 5 7500X3D, ASRock B850M-C AM5, G.Skill Flare X5 Series 16GB DDR5-6000, Computer Build Bundle - Micro Center and the gpu ASRock AMD Radeon RX 9070 Challenger Triple Fan 16GB GDDR6 PCIe 5.0 Graphics Card - Micro Center

I think either my motherboard or my CPU is dead. I turned off my PC earlier today before heading out to do a few things, and when I came back and tried to turn it back on, the Boot LED stays lit. The PC never reaches the BIOS—just a black screen, the keyboard doesn't light up, nothing. I've tried everything: removing the graphics card to check the iGPU, moving the RAM sticks to different slots, booting without the NVMe, without Windows, and with Windows. And nothing works.