r/FLSUNDelta

“full Klipper setup" by Cyril Guislain (Guilouz) for the FLSun V400.

“full Klipper setup" by Cyril Guislain (Guilouz) for the FLSun V400.

I have been trying to upgrade my printer to the “full Klipper setup" by Cyril Guislain (Guilouz) for the FLSun V400. Things go well until I try to install Moonraker, is where it keeps failing. For some reason there is no option to install Phython 3.x prior to installing Moonraker.

https://preview.redd.it/dth6vfgn9a6h1.jpg?width=413&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a3b01b369e3269f2e7d5aa1b8a1d7dfdec4d805b

https://preview.redd.it/vonhmfgn9a6h1.jpg?width=411&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0af7bc236af1b74c82d34541787cda2d862fe69f

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u/Fast-Ad-7700 — 1 day ago
▲ 3 r/FLSUNDelta+1 crossposts

BOttom part of the S1 effector

I needed to get a replacement effector for my S1 after some serious issues with a giant blob of plastic breaking the effector apart from the inside.

I was never able to process a payment through the official FLSUN store when trying to buy the effector there, so i had to try aliexpress, Original FLSUN S1 PRO Effector Full Assembled Hotend Kit 3D Printer Component Print Head - AliExpress 7.

When the part (finally) arrived, i noticed it not having the bottom part, only a 3D-printed airflow thingy (see pic below). I am guessing there has been a design change, but that still does not explain the lack of the lower part of the effector (with sensor/cam?).

Can I still use this, or do I have to make any changes on the printer as it would not have the electronics that were present on the old effector?

And no, i cannot just mount the old "bottom part" as that was damaged during the previous stated blobbing and also during the resolving of this. I could try soldering it where some of the contacts were damaged, but one of the connectionpads is missing (and I also am struggling to find schematic of where the wires on the connector should go)

https://preview.redd.it/8dtwzxv1j16h1.png?width=768&format=png&auto=webp&s=85d89657d61925ad609b9e3d890dcfd62834d563

https://preview.redd.it/erijtcgli16h1.png?width=768&format=png&auto=webp&s=2622944c2a4391f5a6de70693e5693970710c433

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u/artfuldodger87 — 2 days ago
▲ 2 r/FLSUNDelta+1 crossposts

Lost communication with MCU 'mcu'

Hi everyone,

I have a Klipper on my FL Sun Super Racer, and for the past few days I've been having the following problem.

Completely at random, Klipper shuts down with the following error: Lost communication with MCU ‘mcu’. It does this when the printer is idle, never while printing. It usually happens within the first few seconds after connecting. I took a look at the logs, and what I found strange is:

bytes_retransmit=9

It seems that Klipper is trying to connect to my Robin Nano 3.1 but can’t, even though it successfully established the initial connection.

My Raspberry Pi 3 is inside the printer’s case and has no cover. It’s connected to the motherboard via a USB cable that runs from inside the case to the outside. Additionally, there’s a 12-volt step-down converter from the power supply to power an LED strip (which isn’t controlled by a relay). Does anyone have any advice for me? I’m going crazy.

Thanks so much!

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u/Franzix98 — 9 days ago

V400 firmware problem, help recovering!

I'm running "stock" (not flsun stock) Klipper on my V400. Recently Klipper started complaining about the firmware not supporting STEPPER_STEP_BOTH_EDGE. So I recompiled the firmware and flashed it with an SD card. I have the Nano 2.1 board. My menuconfig looked like this...

[*] Enable extra low-level configuration options

Micro-controller Architecture (STMicroelectronics STM32) --->

Processor model (STM32F103) --->

[ ] Only 10KiB of RAM (for rare stm32f103x6 variant)

[ ] Disable SWD at startup (for GigaDevice stm32f103 clones)

Bootloader offset (28KiB bootloader) --->

Clock Reference (8 MHz crystal) --->

Communication interface (Serial (on USART3 PB11/PB10)) --->

(250000) Baud rate for serial port

[*] Optimize stepper code for 'step on both edges'

() GPIO pins to set at micro-controller startup

Then I ran...

./scripts/update_mks_robin.py out/klipper.bin out/Robin_nano35.bin

The flash was successful because the Robin_nano35.bin file changed to .cur after the flash.But now Klipper can't connect to the firmware and I don't know how to recover. Also, if this is a clue, the SSH coms is very slow. I tried both with and without the Optimize stepper code for 'step on both edges' option. I may have flashed a version with the wrong bootloader offset at first. Is there a bootloader.bin that needs to be repaired? Really looking for suggestions on how to proceed, flash back to flsun stock and re-install Klipper? I'd appreciate any ideas!

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u/harfpod — 10 days ago
▲ 5 r/FLSUNDelta+1 crossposts

T1 Pro banging noise?

So this T1 Pro is my first delta style printer. I bought it second hand, when I did a test print with the guy who sold it to me it didn’t seem to have any issues at all and this definitely didn’t occur. However after getting it home and set up every print I’ve done I’m hearing what sounds like a bang or clang each layer. I believe it’s happening during the layer transitions but not fully sure. The video doesn’t quite capture the noise right but it’s the best recording I could get. I’m not sure if it’s the nozzle hitting the print or something mechanical. If anyone could provide some input on how to best trouble shoot this it would be greatly appreciated.

u/Sad-Abbreviations639 — 12 days ago

Heater for T1 Pro?

Hey folks. I had a heater core go out on me for my T1 Pro delta. Tried to replace it with an 80w 25v heater cartridge, but kept getting heater error. I ordered an official replacement, but cannot figure out EXACTLY what heater cartridge it is. Is it 24v? Is it 100w? Is it something else? Anyone know? I don’t want to wait for the Chinese version to show up in 3 weeks.

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u/Aragorn3223 — 11 days ago

Double filament extrusor on my flsun q5

I started this project as a hobbie more than a necessity. I have an old flsun q5 but i think this should work in any flsun printer with more than 1 extrusor exit.

I wanted that my flsun q5 had at least two colors instead of one. I thought that it would be easy with an external arduino but i saw that the mks robin nano had two exits for extruders. I had to modify and install marlin but it was mostly only download the settings from the marlin web and modify the number of extrusors from 1 to two.

I installed a second extrusor printing some parts and now i have two motors for extruders. I joint the two motors with a ptfe tube to the hotend with a printed piece in a Y form. Then i programed the slicer to when it changes filaments:

  1. pull the filament to before the junction

  2. push the second filament to the hotend

  3. purge the filament.

And it continue printing. I had to disable the multi extrusion parameters on prusaslicer and do my own initial and end filament gcode. It works pretty well.

I had to do some improvements for example i dont have a cutter blade to cut the end of the filament and sometimes it is a bit difficult to push and pull from the Y piece, so i reduced de speed while it passes through that part.

Any thowghts of improvement?

Now i'm thinking to do my own mmu3.

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u/Hoidkage — 13 days ago