Haircut One Hundred: are they more than "Love Plus One"?
A slightly longer Haircut 100 post than I intended - but I've been listening to Pelican West again, and I have thoughts, and want yours.
As the mod here, and to the surprise of absolutely no one, I've been thinking a lot about Haircut One Hundred lately. They seem to have been assigned a very specific little slot in 1980s history: silly name, North of England meets Nantucket clothes, attractive singer, horns, "Love Plus One," end of story.
That is not an entirely unfair take. They were young, stylish, and visibly having a good time in an era when a lot of bands were trying to look mysterious, brooding, or dangerous. Their name does sound like something made up at the last minute as a silly inside joke - and it was. When people do remember them, it is usually through "Love Plus One," maybe "Fantastic Day," and a general sense of early-'80s color and cheerfulness.
But I think Haircut 100 get written off because people confuse "happy pop" with empty pop. Their 1982 debut, Pelican West, is one of my favorite albums from that whole period. It is packed with good musicianship, strange little lyrical images, catchy tunes, and a layered sound that pulls from funk, jazz-pop, Afro-Caribbean percussion, and British guitar pop. It still feels like nobody else's.
Haircut 100 were not a standard guitar band with a saxophone player added for the single. The sax, percussion, bass, and drums are central to what makes the band work. They play like a real unit, not like a group built around Nick Heyward with a few fashionable touches added afterward.
Listen to "Favourite Shirts (Boy Meets Girl)" and the first thing you notice is that it moves. The bass does not just sit underneath the song; it takes its own winding route through the arrangement. The guitar is clipped and nervous. The percussion keeps things light on their feet, almost grinding, like a packed dancehall on a humid night. Then the horns come in - like someone pressed a Brasil '66 horn line into performing at sword-point - and make the whole thing feel even more alive.
It is a very poppy song, obviously, but not simple-minded pop. You can (try to!) put it on in the background and enjoy the tune - maybe without tapping your feet or dancing, this time - or you can focus on the rhythm section and hear how much work the band is doing. I wish Haircut 100 were talked about more as musicians, and not just as an image from old Top of the Pops clips.
"Love Plus One" is the big one, and I think it is much stranger than it first appears, or than people give it credit for.
The hook is so immediate that it can distract from the lyric: "I, I went off to the right / Without saying good goodbye / Where does it go from here? / Is it down to the lake I fear?" This is not a normal beginning-middle-end love story. It sounds like a half-remembered scene, full of travel, uncertainty, and somebody trying to make contact: "Ring, ring, ring, ring."
Nick Heyward later explained that the song started as "I went off to the Rhine," based on memories connected to his Swiss-German mother, family trips to Germany, lakes and forests, and "ring Anna" - calling home to his mother. The final lyric became "I went off to the right," but that dreamlike, memory-based quality remains.
That does not solve every line - not getting too Freud on you, but sometimes "a lyric is just a lyric" - and I would not want it to. The song feels personal without explaining itself. It is bright, for sure, but "Where does it go from here?" gives it a small thread of uncertainty. The song never offers a clean answer. It just keeps moving.
"Fantastic Day" is more direct. Its title tells you flat-out what it is going for, and the band gives it everything: bright horns, a bouncy rhythm, and a chorus that makes "fantastic" sound like something you can almost talk yourself into believing.
I have seen it dismissed as lightweight, which seems unfair. There is real skill in making a song this busy and polished sound effortless. Pop does not need to be sad or bleak to have substance, and few songs from 1982 make three minutes of joy sound this convincing.
The deep cuts are where Pelican West becomes more than an album built around three singles. "Lemon Firebrigade" is one of the best things on it. I like the title, obviously, but I also like how the song feels a little more tense and off-balance than the hits. The usual Haircut 100 ingredients are still here: busy Latin-infused bass, rattling percussion, horns that seem to have arrived overdressed, and guitar that never quite settles into a standard rock shape.
"Marine Boy," "Snow Girl," and "Milk Film" keep up the album's fondness for characters and images that feel like they came from postcards, cartoons, or childhood memories. "Kingsize (You're My Little Steam Whistle)" is exactly as ridiculous - and enjoyable - as it sounds. The record has a lot of whimsy, no question, but I do not think whimsy is automatically a bad thing. Well-played whimsy will cover a multitude of sins.
"Calling Captain Autumn" is probably the track I would play for somebody who thinks Haircut 100 were all sugar and horns. It is still recognizably them, but it has a more reflective feel. The title sounds like it could be from a children's show, but the music has a real late-summer sadness to it. At least, that is how it lands for me.
And then there is "Boat Party," closely tied to this era of the band even though it was not on the original UK Pelican West track list. It is looser and longer than the big singles, and gives the players room to settle into the rhythm. It is a useful one to play for anyone who thinks Haircut 100 were just a set of neat pop singles.
The frustrating part of the Haircut 100 story is how brief this lineup's run was. Pelican West came out in February 1982, reached No. 2 in the UK, and produced "Favourite Shirts," "Love Plus One," and "Fantastic Day." Nick Heyward left in early 1983; the remaining members carried on with 1984's Paint and Paint, with Marc Fox on lead vocals. It is worth hearing, but it is not Pelican West part two.
People sometimes call Haircut 100 a one-album band, and in a narrow sense, I understand why. But that phrase can sound like a put-down. If you make one album that is as lively, distinctive, and replayable as Pelican West, then you have done something plenty of much longer-running bands never manage.
Yes, it sounds very much like 1982. The horns, the clothes, the hair, the production, the cheerful confidence: it is all there. I don't see that as a problem. Sometimes I want an old record to sound old. I want the horns, the strange confidence, and the sense that 1982 briefly believed pop music could be this colorful.
Pelican West sounds like six young musicians deciding that pop music could be clever, danceable, a little weird, and completely unafraid of color. They were right.
My pick for the best Haircut 100 non-single is probably "Lemon Firebrigade," though "Calling Captain Autumn" and "Boat Party" would be close behind. What is yours? And which other bands get dismissed as "lightweight" mainly because they made joy sound easy?