r/radiocontrol

The kind of crash I haven’t had till now. Friend was flying around with his shockflyer and was yeeting my M8 around the field when I experienced a.. obstructed field of view from one to the other moment.
Turns out I oerfectly cut of the top of the shockflyer by pure force. The plane still flew like a charm..

my friend borrowed my basic B3 Lipos charger to charge his DIY 3S 18650 pack. He is short-sighted (nearsighted) but decided to solder the balance wires without wearing his glasses or double-checking with a multimeter.

He nailed the first two cells, but when it came to the 3rd wire, he completely messed up the polarity and plugged it in. BOOM! The U5 IC literally exploded with a loud pop and left a nice burnt hole right in the middle.

Now he texted me saying "My eyes are bad, that's why" 🤡 and my charger is officially 50% dead, permanently converted into a 2S charger. Watch out for those nearsighted RC builders who don't wear their glasses folks, they are a hazard!

Has anyone gotten the extra tx pads to work? I've included photos of the back and front of the FC. This is my first time doing this.

So far I've tried connecting the Vtx's irc wire to the unused T3 and T6 but I have no control of the vtx after adding the irc under ports in inav. The t2 pad is crsf port and gps port is T5.

I see there is a DJI port that includes a tx1 and I may try soldering to that next.

First test drive of this 1/10 fpv rc drift car
Build is meant to be as scale and realistic as possible.
Work in progress
MST FRX • 1995 bmw e36 325i sedan drift missile
Running openipc and Inav 9.0.1
Scale dash running Kairuhshq landscape kit track 1 screen
Speed is accurate from gps and scaleable in settings. It's more accurate after letting it collect satellites. Lap timer triggered by arm switch or brake hold
KairuhsHQ.com

It’s for a small RC drone by Sharper Image

I have started flying drones and FPV. At first I bought a package to film in 4K (Dji Neo with goggles N3 and everything). Then I bought a Mobula7 o4 and an ELRS hand controller. I am now thinking of also getting an analog system because of cheaper drones (in case you want to buy more) and easy to get a lot of spare parts and cheaper.

I've been looking at Skyviz analog goggles. Does anyone out there have experience with these, what do you think, etc.? Or would you recommend something completely different and if so, why?

Cheapest option available

Working on this 3d printed hybrid truggy. Its got a 3900kv Spektrum motor off of a Losi dirt bike and a 2/1 80A combo 3s ESC off of an Arrma Vorteks. The entire drive train will be metal. Its made out of a few different material (TPU, PETG & ASA) for extra strength especially since this bad boy is built to bash.

I take in old broken RC cars that no one wants and try to give them a new life. I always wanted a Kyosho Quad Rider but never had a chance to buy one. So I use those broken parts to make this. The front suspension is from a Ultima and the back is from a Lois Pro Moto. I still have the throttle servo to connect and the engine will need broke in.

First run and it lost signal on full throttle and crashed right into someone sitting in a coffee shop
But everyone an it was okay no damage or injury instantly asked for forgiveness and it was all good
Then we did some burnouts

Recently about week ago my team Associated MT10 servo has broken, so I ordered a new one from Amazon. Here is the link: https://www.amazon.de/Annimos-Leistungsstarkes-Digital-Servo-Edelstahl-Standard-Servo/dp/B07GJ6ZCVY/?hl=ru-RU

It's not expensive and not cheap but I'm on a budget of 30€ so i choosed the Annimos servo, and also one of the reasons where the metal thing that connects servo with the steering system. Honestly idk how this thing is called but i added pictures of it, and also you can see that the metal one that came with servo, is slightly bigger than the stock one. Sadly reddit doesn't allow me to upload videos (idk why) but i think that when i turn right the metal thing "cuts" into chassis and I'm a bit scared that seevo could broke. Can someone help me to understand if it's really a problem or it's okay. Forgot to mention that i tried to cut a piece of that metal thingy with pliers, but nothing happend.

Hello everyone.
Could anyone help me out with what this white, almost chalky looking residue could be? From what I’ve looked up, these Sanyou relay boxes can’t leak anything. Is this just a residue from some kind of soldering or component adding method?
Attached is a picture of my Mercedes Benz s63 amg ride on toy control board.
Thanks for any help, I don’t think it’s anything big, I’m just curious.

I've only flown the 400mm warbirds, I have 7 of them. Looking to move up in the hobby. I rarely fly out of intermediate level because these are so small and light and there's always a breeze where I live. Other than that I think im pretty good at flying them. Do I buy a transmitter and receiver and just go from there?

In NA and EU, they have Traxxas and Arrma, but they don’t offer direct shipping to India. Some third-party sellers like havochobby.in do sell them, but I’m not sure about the authenticity of the products.

I did some research and found that https://www.bharathobby.com/ seems better than most alternatives. It’s not as expensive as Traxxas or Arrma, and the quality seems reasonably balanced.

I want to know where you guys buy good RC cars in India.

Finally added a small distance watermark overlay to my LD Robot D500 setup, so the measured range is always in front of my eyes while testing.

Tiny improvement, but it actually makes debugging and live checks way more comfortable & safer