u/BOCAdventures

▲ 7 r/centuryhomes+1 crossposts

Mid 1800s home in VT, attic was full of vermiculite and knob and tube so we paid somebody to remove the vermiculite, disconnected the K+T, and rewired. They got the vermiculite all out of the main part of the attic, and as much as they could out of the rafter bays where the slope of the roof continues lower than the actual attic (our 2nd floor exterior side walls on the front and back are shorter than the inside walls due to the slope of the roof, if that makes sense) and blocked up all the rafter bays with insulation board foamed into place (to keep any asbestos fibers they couldn’t reach or couldn’t see from being disturbed). They told us when we have the attic insulated, holes could be cut in the insulation board to the size of the blown in insulation pipe, insulation could be blown down the bay, and the holes could be resealed. Our house has sections that meet in an L shape. The horizontal leg of the L has gable vents at either end, the vertical leg has no venting (because one end of the gable meets the longer leg of the L and the end meets the garage). We have a relatively new standing seam metal roof. **edit** forgot to specifically say, no soffit vents, and seems impossible to add any due to vermiculite remnants being down there. My questions - should we be worried about moisture being trapped in the sealed off rafter bays below the “grade” of the attic floor in general? Or specifically if / when we blow insulation into the bays? What about the attic in general? I know we have to keep the gables from being covered, but what about the section with no gables? Will insulation trap moisture that has no airflow to be pushed out? Are there reasons to choose cellulose over fiberglass / bats over blown in (or vice versa) in this situation?

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u/BOCAdventures — 23 days ago