da ich gerade das setup für den neuen winter run vorbereite dachte ich ich zeig euch mal was das system beim letzten mal so abgeliefert hat die mädels sahen echt ganz gut aus finde ich freue mich schon richtig wenn das bald wieder so aussieht happy growing!
Hey GrowBuddies,
I've asked a thing or two about winter preparation here recently. Real winter is approaching, and the same panic can be seen everywhere: Temperatures in unheated basements are slowly dropping towards 10–15 °C (50–59 °F), so a 500W space heater is quickly thrown into the tent. The temperature finally hits 25 °C (77 °F), but suddenly the plants start looking crispy and stressed. Why? Because most of the time, the wrong metric is being chased.
The Physics: Sensible vs. Latent Heat
A normal space heater generates sensible heat – it brutally raises the air temperature, but simultaneously strips all the moisture from the room air. This causes the relative humidity (RH) to crash instantly and sends the VPD skyrocketing.
The Humidifier Band-Aid (The Automation Madness)
The standard answer to this is almost always: Then I will just add a humidifier!
Most of the time, the space heater and humidifier are then hooked up to an automated controller – and thermodynamically speaking, a complete nightmare is created. The heater dries out the air, the controller counters this and turns on the humidifier. Humidity shoots up, the controller panics and cranks up the exhaust fan to manage the chaos (sensor chasing). Massive amounts of electricity are wasted while the values in the tent yo-yo up and down.
Worse still: the second the light or the heater turns off, this artificially heated, wet air hits the cold tent walls. The dew point drops, water condenses, and the perfect incubator for bud rot has been created. My cascade system completely eliminates this electronic gear war and runs absolutely clean without these artificial fluctuations instead.
The Zero-Watt Solution & The Evaporation Engine
In my setups, active room heaters have been completely banished. The foundation for this is autoflower genetics on a continuous 24/7 light cycle: the constantly running main LED provides the permanent thermal base load, completely eliminating the critical temperature drop of a dark period.
Building on this, a semi-closed thermodynamic cascade (semi-closed loop) is used. The convective waste heat from the LED drivers (Vivosun AeroLights) is captured and mixed with the cold fresh air using a thermal airlock. Instead of heating the room, a retired 60W supplemental LED at ground level is used as a pure evaporation engine to drive the plants' metabolism. This pre-conditioned mixed air is then actively routed to the ground via a perforated matrix (an S-shaped duct) – separated from the cold concrete floor by a 5 cm (2 inch) styrofoam decoupling.
The Proof of Concept (March Start) & The Upcoming Winter Test
That the mechanics behind this work was proven by the last run starting in mid-March, when the basement was still bitterly cold. In the early seedling stage, the system primarily blocked out the cold through the insulation. But as soon as the plants developed enough leaf mass, pure physics took over: the result was an absolute VPD flatline, which from then on was maintained purely by transpiration (latent heat).
This entire cycle was logged minute by minute. The system possesses such massive thermal inertia (lumped-capacitance model) that during a critical phase, it effortlessly absorbed an unplanned 45-minute power outage and autonomously returned to the target corridor afterward.
To guarantee absolute precision during measurement, the recording was run via dual-sensor validation with an additional external digital sensor – the values were even calibrated downwards by 1 °C for safety. The raw CSV data with over 116,000 strictly validated data points proves this in black and white.
Whether the system will maintain this absolute stability when the basement truly drops towards 5 °C (41 °F) in deep winter remains to be seen. That is exactly why the data loggers are currently being prepped for the ultimate sub-zero stress test.
Just out of curiosity: How is the Delta-T (temperature difference) between a cold lung room and the canopy actually best controlled without triggering this constant space heater vs. humidifier war in the tent?
Hallo zusammen,
anknüpfend an das enorme Interesse und die vielen Aufrufe zu meinem ersten Beitrag möchte ich heute das versprochene Update liefern. Den Link zur ursprünglichen Diskussion findet ihr ganz unten.
Ich arbeite weiterhin an dem physikalischen Versuchsaufbau zur passiven Klimatisierung in geschlossenen Räumen (Umgebungstemperatur unbeheizt ca. 14–18 °C). In meinem ersten Beitrag ging es um die theoretische Frage, wie sich ein stabiler Mikroklimakorridor (VPD ~1,0–1,3 kPa) allein durch die konvektive Abwärme einer internen Punktwärmequelle aufrechterhalten lässt.
Der aktuelle Stand & die Datenlage:
Um die Wärmeverluste an den kalten Untergrund zu minimieren, wurde das System thermisch entkoppelt. Die Luftführung erfolgt über eine definierte S-förmige Matrix am Boden, die die durch Konvektion nach unten gedrückte Warmluft gleichmäßig verteilt und einströmende Frischluft vorwärmt.
Ich habe über den kompletten Zyklus hinweg insgesamt 116.522 Messpunkte (Taktung: 1 Minute) aufgezeichnet, die belegen, dass das System im Normalbetrieb ein extrem stabiles Fließgleichgewicht hält. Um die mechanische Luftführung nun aber für Extremsituationen mathematisch zu unterfüttern, habe ich speziell das transiente Verhalten (anhand eines echten Systemausfalls) modelliert. Dazu hätte ich gerne euer fachliches Feedback:
Um den Kältesee am Boden zu neutralisieren, bricht die S-Matrix die einströmende laminare Strömung. Zur Erfassung der Schichtungsstabilität habe ich die Richardson-Zahl (Ri) herangezogen:
Ri = [ g * β * (∂T / ∂z) ] / (∂u / ∂z)²
Da Ri konstruktionsbedingt > 0,25 gehalten wird, gleitet die Warmluft kontrolliert über die kalte Bodenschicht, ohne turbulent zu verwirbeln. Ist dieser Ansatz für Systeme mit sehr geringen Temperaturgradienten ausreichend präzise?
Das System beinhaltet einen thermischen Fluidspeicher (9 kg Wasseräquivalent). Bei einem Totalausfall der Punktwärmequelle (dokumentierter Systemausfall von knapp 70 Minuten) fiel die Temperatur auf einen Tiefpunkt von 21,3 °C bei 84 % relativer Feuchtigkeit. Nach dem Neustart kehrte das System autonom an einer exponentiellen Kurve entlang in exakt 50 Minuten auf das Ziel-Plateau von 24,9 °C zurück. Ich habe dies über das Modell der konzentrierten Kapazität abgebildet:
T(t) = T_end + (T_start - T_end) * e^(-t / τ)
Die ermittelte Zeitkonstante τ belegt, dass das System Störgrößen mechanisch extrem gut abfedert. Gibt es hierfür noch passendere kinetische Modelle für geschlossene Hohlräume?
Trotz externer Feuchteeinträge bleibt der Dampfdruck im regulären Betrieb stabil. Zur Validierung, dass das System den kritischen Kondensationspunkt umgeht, nutze ich die Magnus-Formel (DIN 50010):
e_s(T) = 0,61078 * e^( (17,08085 * T) / (234,175 + T) )
Im Fließgleichgewicht (25 °C, 67 % r.F.) errechnet sich ein realer Sicherheitsabstand von >6 Kelvin zum Taupunkt. Kondensation ist somit ausgeschlossen.
Rohdaten zur Verifizierung:
Um volle Transparenz zu gewährleisten und die transiente Antwort des Systems (wie beim oben beschriebenen Systemausfall) für jeden nachvollziehbar zu machen, stelle ich die ungeschönten CSV-Rohdaten der Messreihen zur Verfügung. Keine vorformatierten Graphen, sondern die nackten Zahlen des Controllers zur eigenen Auswertung.
Quellen & Referenzen:
Ursprünglicher Beitrag (Theorie & Problemstellung):
https://www.reddit.com/r/Wissenschaft/s/jW3J6Qg4am
CSV-Rohdaten zum Härtetest (Google Drive):
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1biOeTx52dTen41NumIs8Jt\_onx8D7TJB/view?usp=drivesdk
Ich freue mich über jede Anregung zur theoretischen Fundierung dieses passiven Konvektionsmodells oder Hinweise auf Schwachstellen in den mathematischen Annahmen!
Hey Vivosun Community,
Thanks again for the killer technical feedback on my previous winter aerodynamics posts!
I’m currently prepping my setup for the winter run and need some advice from the automation nerds on controller theory. My lung room (raw basement) drops to a constant 10–14°C (50–57°F). My target corridor in the tent is 22–27°C (71–80°F).
My Question:
How do you guys fine-tune the GrowHub hysteresis/trigger parameters for such a specific, massive delta-T? I’m looking for the perfect sweet spot for the trigger-settings so the system reacts precisely without the tent cooling down too rapidly during exhaust cycles or constantly overshooting the temperature curve.
Background Info / Proof of Concept:
To bypass standard "just buy a heater" advice: I’m running a passive cascade system. I use the AeroLight as a thermal engine and force warm air through an S-shaped ground matrix before extraction.
My spring R&D run validated this mechanics flawlessly (see screenshot of the data log). I’ve tracked over 116,500 data points (minutely) via GrowHub. The system held the VPD and targets (22–27°C / 55–66% RH) rock-solid. My method: I don't run the exhaust high-speed/temp-triggered; I use precise micro-intervals (e.g., 1m ON / 4m OFF) and the integrated AeroLight fan to push heat down, letting the GrowHub only handle pressure/humidity removal.
Now, I'm just focusing on fine-tuning the controller logic for the colder winter temps. How do you adjust your trigger parameters when the delta-T is this aggressive?
Appreciate any technical input!
many discussions about microclimate control in cold environments end up just throwing more watts heaters dehumidifiers and air conditioning at the problem i treat airflow as a mechanical matrix to validate this i logged a complete run in a raw basement completely without heating pipes ac or extra heaters with over 116000 minute by minute data points
the attached chart shows how my passive guided cascade system completely autonomously caught two massive stress tests in a single day
event 1 the blackout 0930
the local grid went down for over an hour without the led exhaust this usually means a rapid temperature drop in an unheated cellar but because my root zone is completely decoupled from the concrete with styrofoam and a small 40x40cm thermal airlock buffers the intake the system barely lost any temp when power returned it autonomously climbed back to a stable 25c within minutes without me doing anything
event 2 the watering spike 1240
i opened the tent to water manually you can see the temp drop from the open door and then the massive humidity spike hitting over 70 percent as the water evaporated instead of a 500w dehumidifier or an ac unit kicking in the physical airflow matrix an aerolight pushing down and a perforated hose on the floor instantly caught this moisture spike within minutes the rh was forced back to a perfect 62 percent and the vpd stabilized
this is exactly why investing in floor level fluid mechanics is far superior to raw fan power data doesnt lie
are there any other growers or hvac nerds here who control their environment using physical airflow resistance and floor level mapping instead of just throwing tech at the problem has anyone here run similar stress tests or does anyone grow with this level of airflow management?
hey guys,
just wanted to drop my setup for cold basements here and see what the thermodynamics nerds think. the goal was to force a stable microclimate in a cold basement (14-18c / 57-64f), completely without any extra space heaters draining power.
quick disclaimer before anyone starts yelling this is obviously not a hermetically sealed loop without fresh air. it's about turning uncontrolled basement air into a guided, purely mechanical cascade system to cleverly reuse the existing exhaust heat.
the core of it is a small pre-chamber / thermo-airlock (a 40x40cm / 1.3x1.3ft mini tent). the freezing fresh air gets pre-conditioned there by the exhaust heat from the main tent. inside, an aerolight pushes the led exhaust heat down through the canopy as a targeted vertical airstream.
down on the floor, there's a 2.5m (8ft) aluminum flex duct laid out in an s-shape around the pots. it's completely insulated from the freezing concrete floor using styrofoam and 3-4 layers of insulation. through precisely placed throttle holes in the duct, the heat is distributed as an air matrix directly into the root zone without trapping the heat.
i didn't just eyeball this. i logged the entire last spring test run and collected over 116,200 valid data points at one-minute intervals. the photo shows my controller holding my target corridor strictly between 22-27c (71-80f) and 55-66% rh - keeping the vpd dialed in perfectly even during late flower peaks.
any other climate geeks here working with passive airflow design instead of just throwing 500w space heaters at the problem? roast my setup or let me know what you think!
hey everyone,
with temps in my basement about to plummet back down to 53-59f (12-15c), i'm currently prepping the climate management for my winter run. i already ran this exact setup through a successful field test starting in mid-march. the entire cycle was logged with over 160,000 data points, proving i could keep the optimal VPD perfectly constant during the vegetative stage.
to avoid using an additional space heater, i run my autos under 24/7 constant light. the LED is my only heat source, which completely eliminates the dreaded temp drop during the "dark period" and locks the tent perfectly into my target metrics of 71-80f (22-27c) and 55-66% humidity.
but here's the catch: when the light is heating 24/7, the air circulation in the tent has to be absolutely flawless, otherwise you’ll breed bud rot within days. i use low-stress training (LST) with 90 degree clips and a tight SCROG net – but not to push light penetration or maximize yield.
i force the canopy to stay radically flat so it acts as an aerodynamic guiding plane. quick context on my setup: i distribute my intake air through a perforated aluminum flex duct directly on the tent floor. since warm air naturally rises, this setup pushes the airflow from the very bottom up. a perfectly homogeneous, flat canopy ensures that the air can pull extremely clean and evenly through the foliage. there’s no messy jungle where moisture pockets or trapped heat can build up. the air isn't blocked; it can pull perfectly up through the canopy and get exhausted in a controlled way.
so for me, plant training isn't just a yield booster; it’s an absolute fluid dynamics necessity to keep the 24/7 climate and the evenly rising thermodynamics in the tent running smoothly, and to stabilize the VPD.
do you ignore thermodynamics during training and just traditionally brute-force any potential climate issues in the tent with more power hogs? or does anyone else here use the architecture of the plant itself as an aerodynamic tool?
Hey everyone,
I normally build climate systems for the high-yield indoor ag sector, but I recently realized that collectors of high-end, extremely rare aroids and monsteras often fight the exact same physics in winter: freezing floors, plummeting humidity, and massive VPD swings in grow tents and indoor greenhouses.
To avoid blowing up the power bill with space heaters, I developed a thermodynamic cascade system for cold basements (14-18°C / 57-64°F). I use a pre-staged thermal airlock and an S-shaped ducting matrix directly on the floor to maximize the recycling of the convective waste heat from the LED lights.
I just finished the first cycle and logged over 115,000 data points. The result: an absolute climate curve flatline. The main chamber was locked in at a stable 22–27°C (72–80°F) and 55–66% RH – relying almost entirely on the waste heat from the lights. As a quick sneak peek, check out the two photos showing the raw graphs directly from my logbook app.
I'm currently prepping the setup for the ultimate deep-winter stress test and I love picking up clever DIY ideas from completely different niches. Talking to people from completely different areas has already sparked some extremely smart approaches to perhaps buffer extreme frost scenarios in winter with smart "ultra-low-watt" backups, without ruining the passive overall concept.
What I am not looking for is advice like, "just put a 500W space heater in there." I leave it to the competition to solve climate problems by just throwing massive amounts of electricity at them. My goal is to maintain the climate primarily through aerodynamics and only catch extreme drops with minimal energy.
Since you guys often keep really expensive rarities and immensely valuable collector's items in your tents, where a stable microclimate is absolutely crucial, I'm super curious about how you solve this:
Is anyone in your niche experimenting with heat recovery, aerodynamics, or unconventional ultra-low-watt hacks for winter tent climate control?
I’ll definitely stick around the community and will gladly share my sensor data sets with you during the winter run. Then we can look at the raw numbers to see if my VPD values (kPa) actually perfectly suit the peak demands of your expensive exotics in practice—maybe there’s a valuable takeaway for one or two of your winter setups.
Conversely, I’m hoping to pick up a clever tip or two for my own project from you guys here. Really looking forward to your input and tips!
hey vivosun fam, still optimizing my cold basement setup for the upcoming winter run (ambient temps drop to 12–15°c / 53–59°f in the dead of winter).
i’m trying to use the waste heat from my aerolight as my primary heat source instead of buying an expensive space heater. to do that, i need to get the heat from the top of the tent down to the root zone at the floor.
my idea: i want to mount 2 or 3 aerowave clip fans high up near the light, pointing strictly downwards. i want to mechanically force the warm air straight through the canopy and onto the floor.
has anyone here played around with aggressive vertical aerodynamics using the aerowaves? my biggest fear is that blasting the air straight down through the plants 24/7 will cause massive wind burn or severely stress the upper leaves.
how do you guys position your clip fans in freezing environments to keep the heat down without destroying the plants?
appreciate any airflow wisdom!
hey everyone,
as winter is getting closer i'm finalizing my setup for an unheated basement (ambient temps drop to 12–15°C / 53–59°F).
to avoid running up a massive power bill with a 500W space heater, i'm using the convective waste heat from my LEDs (running autoflowers 24/7) to lock the tent into the 22–27°C and 55–66% RH sweet spot. as you can see in the pic, i'm currently running bare, perforated aluminum ducting on the floor to direct heat to the root zone.
but my real winter project is outside the tent: to keep the exhaust from sucking freezing basement air straight in, i'm building a passive cascade system. fresh air gets routed through a tube system pre-heated by the warm exhaust air before entering the main chamber.
here's where i need some hands-on advice from the HVAC nerds and winter growers: obviously i can't use bare aluminum ducting for the cascade outside the tent, or all the heat will just bleed into the cold room.
what do you guys use to insulate ducting/cascades in freezing rooms?
if you use thick insulation (like fiberglass or neoprene sleeves), do you run into massive condensation issues inside the tubes when warm and cold air masses mix?
appreciate any tips or material ideas before i seal the cascade up!
Hey everyone,
I’m currently finalizing the setup for my upcoming winter autoflower run in an unheated basement (ambient temps drop to 12–15°C / 53–59°F in the dead of winter).
I'm running a 24/7 light schedule, and to avoid blasting a space heater and spiking my power bill, I want to route the LED exhaust heat to keep the tent locked at 22–27°C (72–80°F) and 55–66% RH.
I am thinking about using standard, uninsulated aluminum flex ducting (like in the picture) to route the warm air down to the canopy and pots. But before I put everything together, I have a physics question for the winter veterans:
Will that bare aluminum ducting just bleed all the heat into the cold basement before it does its job? And more importantly, does the warm, humid air from the tent hitting the cold aluminum cause massive condensation inside the tubes?
Would love to hear if any of you have run into this cold-weather trap and what your experiences or workarounds are!
Hey everyone,
I'm currently gathering ideas and planning my upcoming winter run in an unheated basement. Temps down there are usually only around 57-64°F (14-18°C).
To avoid speculation, here is my planned setup so you know what I'm working with:
Tent: 4x2x5 ft (relatively low air volume as a buffer)
Plants: 3x Autoflowers
Light: 24/7 cycle (to constantly utilize the heat from the LEDs)
Pots: 3-gallon fabric pots. To block the cold from the floor, I’ll add about 1.5 inches of clay pebbles at the bottom, topped with a landscape fabric divider, and then the soil.
My biggest headache right now: Watering days and humidity spikes.
Because of the fabric pots, I have a massive evaporation surface. When I give them a proper watering, the RH inside the tent logically shoots through the roof at first.
The standard reflex would be: crank up the exhaust to pull the moisture out quickly.
The problem: If I do that in winter, I'll rapidly suck freezing cold basement air into the tent. The temperature will plummet, and worst case, I'll freeze the root zone. Throwing a 500W space heater in there to blow up my power bill is absolutely not an option.
How do you cold-basement growers handle this dilemma in winter?
Do you specifically adjust your watering intervals or amounts to avoid these massive spikes?
How do you drop the RH after watering without immediately sucking all the residual heat out of the tent?
Do you use any other tricks to keep the climate stable with fabric pots in a cold room?
I’ll use the next few weeks to gather your approaches and build my own test strategy from them. Once the winter run officially starts, I'll definitely do an update and share my sensor data. Let's see if we can somehow outsmart basement physics!
Thanks in advance for any tips!
Hey VIVOSUN community! Take a look at the pic, I just grabbed this exact complete kit (48x24x60) for my basement. I'm currently planning my setup for the upcoming winter run and hit a bit of a roadblock with the controller theory. Hoping the automation nerds here can help me out!
My basement gets ice-cold in winter (often drops to 14–18°C / 57–64°F) and I absolutely refuse to put a power-hungry 500W space heater into the tent. My idea is to passively reuse the convective waste heat from the LED and control the climate strictly via the VIVOSUN ecosystem.
My Setup & Concept:
AeroLight (utilizing the integrated circulation fan)
VIVOSUN Smart Inline Fan (Exhaust)
GrowHub Controller
Custom: A DIY S-shaped ducting matrix on the floor and a pre-staged thermal airlock for the intake.
I’m trying to use the AeroLight as a thermal engine. By forcing the circulation fan to blow strictly downwards into the S-shaped floor matrix, I want to protect the root zone from the cold ground before the exhaust pulls the air out.
Where I need your help:
This is where I need your GrowHub knowledge: If the exhaust runs constantly, it sucks the valuable LED heat right out through the carbon filter before the floor even gets warm.
How would you program the GrowHub intervals so the system "breathes" just enough to maintain a stable VPD (I'm aiming for a strict 1.0–1.3 kPa corridor), while keeping the heat trapped in the floor cascade? Has anyone here ever synced the AeroLight fan curve with the exhaust intervals to balance out the hysteresis and achieve maximum heat retention in a cold room?
I feel like the GrowHub is built exactly for this kind of micromanagement, but I haven't found the golden recipe yet. I'd be super grateful for any parameter suggestions or trigger settings!
Moin zusammen,
ich komme beruflich eher so aus der Technik-Ecke und hab aktuell drüben bei r/Wissenschaft ne theoretische Diskussion zu meinem Versuchsaufbau laufen. Da ich aber biologisch echt noch dazu lernen muss, brauche ich mal das Praxiswissen von euch Growern.
Mein Problem kennt ihr sicher: Der Keller ist kalt (oft nur so 14-18°C) und hat ne ziemlich hohe Grundfeuchtigkeit. Statt jetzt aber massig Strom für Heizlüfter oder Heizmatten zu verballern, versuche ich das rein über die Luftführung und die Abwärme der Lampe zu lösen.
Mein aktuelles Setup:
Hauptzelt, Schleuse & Mischluft:
Ich nutze ein 120x60x150 cm Hauptzelt. Davor hab ich als Thermo-Schleuse ein kleines 40x40 Beizelt geschaltet. Der Clou ist, dass die warme Abluft vom Hauptzelt direkt vor die Ansaugöffnung dieser Schleuse geleitet wird. Dort mischt sich diese warme Abwärme mit der kalten, frischen Kellerluft zu einer moderaten Mischtemperatur. Das Hauptzelt kriegt also keine abgestandene Luft, sondern immer frisch vorkonditionierte Zuluft.
Boden-Entkopplung: Um den kalten Estrich auszugleichen, liegt der Zuluft-Schlauch in einer S-Form direkt am Boden, aber ca. 5cm auf Styropor hochgelagert.
Töpfe & Pflanzen: Ich fahre 3 Autoflowers in 11-Liter Stofftöpfen. Um die Wurzeln von unten noch etwas gegen die Kälte zu isolieren und Staunässe zu verhindern, hab ich unten ca. 3-5 cm Blähton drin, dann ein Trennvlies und darauf erst die Erde.
Abwärme nutzen: Die Ventis drücken die Wärme der LEDs gezielt nach unten in diese S-Schlauch-Führung und auf die Töpfe.
Die Daten vom ersten Test:
Der erste Testlauf startete im Frühjahr und lief erstaunlich gut durch. Ich hab das komplett per Datenlogger aufgezeichnet (waren am Ende über 100k Messpunkte). Das System hat sich nach ein paar Tagen gut eingependelt und den VPD relativ konstant zwischen 1,0 und 1,3 gehalten - komplett ohne aktive Zuheizer. In der Endphase der Reifung konnte ich den VPD sogar gezielt bis in den Bereich von etwa 1,6 kPa hochziehen. Auch nach nem kurzen Stromausfall war das Klima nach ca. 30 Minuten wieder voll im Zielbereich. Getrocknet wurde dann direkt in der Schleuse im selben AKF-Kreislauf.
Meine Fragen an euch für den anstehenden Winter-Run:
Die nackten Zahlen sehen zwar gut aus, aber ich bin unsicher bei den Risiken für die Pflanzen im Extremfall:
Wurzel-Stress: Ich drücke die warme Abluft ja gezielt nach unten um den Boden zu heizen. Kriegt man da auf Dauer Probleme mit den Wurzeln, wenn die Wärme primär von unten kommt, auch wenn der Blähton isoliert?
Schimmel in der Spätblüte: Ein VPD von 1,6 am Ende ist ja ein solider Wert, aber das Ganze steuert sich rein passiv über den Luftwiderstand. Reicht diese Luftbewegung eurer Erfahrung nach wirklich, um Botrytis in dichten Blüten sicher zu verhindern?
Terpene beim Trocknen: Hat im Sommer gut geklappt in der Schleuse, aber meint ihr die Terpene leiden, wenn die Ernte quasi permanent in diesem Ansaug-Mischstrom vor dem Hauptzelt hängt?
Wäre super dankbar für ein paar kritische Meinungen. Bin mir nämlich echt noch unsicher, ob sich so ein Setup im tiefsten Winter überhaupt lohnt, oder ob ihr vielleicht noch clevere Ideen habt, wie man das thermisch noch besser isolieren kann – natürlich am besten, ohne mir jetzt zusätzliche Heizgeräte reinzustellen!
Hallo zusammen,
ich arbeite an einem physikalischen Versuchsaufbau zur passiven Klimatisierung in geschlossenen Räumen (Umgebungstemperatur ca. 14–18 °C) und würde mich über eine fachliche Einschätzung zu den zugrunde liegenden thermodynamischen Prozessen freuen.
Das Problem:
Wie lässt sich ein stabiler Mikroklimakorridor (VPD ~1,0–1,3 kPa) allein durch die Nutzung von Abwärme (konvektive Energie einer Punktwärmequelle im Inneren) ohne aktive elektrische Heizung aufrechterhalten?
Der Versuchsaufbau:
Um die Wärmeverluste an den kalten Untergrund zu minimieren, wurde das System durch eine mehrschichtige Dämmung thermisch vom Boden entkoppelt. Die Luftführung erfolgt über eine definierte S-förmige Matrix am Boden, die die durch Konvektion nach unten gedrückte Warmluft gleichmäßig verteilt. Durch ein mehrstufiges Kaskadensystem wird die einströmende Außenluft vorgewärmt, bevor sie in die Hauptkammer eintritt.
Die Datenlage:
Ich habe über einen kompletten Zyklus hinweg 116.522 Messpunkte aufgezeichnet. Die Daten zeigen, dass das System nach einer Einschwingphase (2–3 Tage) thermisch stabil bleibt und sogar externe Lastspitzen (z.B. durch kurzzeitige externe Feuchteeinträge) durch die mechanische Luftführung kompensiert.
Meine Kernfragen an die Strömungsmechaniker / Physiker:
Grenzschicht-Modellierung: Wie lässt sich die Stabilität der Grenzschicht bei niedrigen Temperaturgradienten am besten mathematisch erfassen, um den "Vortex"-Effekt (bzw. die gezielte Luftschichtung) theoretisch zu unterfüttern?
Strömungswiderstand: Bei der Nutzung von perforierten Luftführungen (Matrix-Bohrungen) als passives Ventil: Gibt es bewährte Ansätze, um den statischen Unterdruck als selbstregelndes Element zur Vermeidung von Strömungsabrissen zu modellieren?
Hysterese: Das System zeigt eine hohe thermische Trägheit (nach einem Stromausfall kehrte es binnen 30 Minuten in den Zielbereich zurück). Welche kinetischen Modelle wären am besten geeignet, um dieses "Wiederherstellungsverhalten" der Wärmekaskade abzubilden?
Ich freue mich über jede Anregung zur theoretischen Fundierung dieses passiven Konvektionsmodells.