Sukenari vs Yoshikane
Back once more for the collective wisdom! I’m restructuring my kit and could use some real-world input before I list anything for sale.
My setup and cooking style:
Advanced home cook, vegetarian, cooking for 4+ people 3–4x/week on a walnut end-grain board. I do a forward push cut — down and forward, not a rock chop. I sharpen on Shapton Glass 500 / Pro 1000 / Pro 5000 a few times a year and outsource thinning. I always immediately wash and dry my knife after I’m done using it but do not
wipe it down every time I put it down.
The plan:
I’m acquiring an elite Sakai laser as my daily driver (Gesshin Kagekiyo Ginsanko or Tetsujin — separate saga). The question here is about my second knife: a workhorse to handle the heavier or rougher prep the laser shouldn’t.
I currently own a 240mm Sukenari SG2 K-tip. Two issues with it for me: the squared K-tip heel catches on my board during push cuts and stalls my follow-through, and I find SG2 tedious to sharpen. It’s a beautifully heat-treated knife, but the grind feels middling and food release is just okay.
I’m considering selling it and buying a Yoshikane SKD Nashiji 240mm instead. My reasoning:
• Standard tip to deal with the heel catch
• SKD is tougher than SG2 under lateral stress? (better for a workhorse role)
• SKD sharpens much more easily
• Nashiji finish gives better food release
• profile suits my push cut
• Thin behind the edge with a thick spine and aggressive distal taper
My questions:
1. For those who’ve owned both Sukenari SG2 and Yoshikane SKD — did the Yoshikane’s grind and profile feel like a real upgrade for push cutting, or am I overestimating the difference?
2. SKD reactivity — Realistically how much patina/discoloration should I expect? Is it a non-issue or a real consideration?
3. Am I giving up too much by moving off Sukenari’s elite SG2 heat treatment? Or is the toughness and sharpening ease of SKD worth it for a workhorse?
4. Anyone who regretted selling a Sukenari — talk me out of it!!
Appreciate the input as always!