The Man Who Watched Climbing Change Over 54 Years - Mark Hudon
Hey everyone! I had the unique opportunity to sit down in person with Mark Hudon in his apartment in Reno. Mark popped onto my radar during the boom of media coverage surrounding Mark and Jordan's ascent of the Salathé Wall and the accompanying film "Free As Can Be". After some more research I was absolutely blown away at how accomplished of a climber Mark is and how impactful he was during the sports transition into big wall free climbing. I am stoked to share this "trailer" of our conversation and hope it inspires you to watch the whole conversation.
You can watch it HERE
OR Listen to it HERE
Here is some more information about Mark Hudon and our conversation:
______________
Mark Hudon is a Yosemite legend whose work in the late 1970s and early 1980s helped push big wall climbing into a new free climbing era. Often partnered with the equally groundbreaking Max Jones, Mark became known for his bold, ground-up style—blending meticulous preparation with a willingness to test the limits of free climbing on terrain that had previously only been aided. Few climbers have shaped as many eras of the sport as Mark Hudon.
Mark was born three years before El Capitan was first climbed. That kind of historical proximity gives him a perspective on climbing's evolution that almost nobody else alive can offer—and that's exactly where this conversation starts. We dig into what the lives of Royal Robbins and Warren Harding actually represented, why their conflict mirrors the tensions we still see in climbing today, and why Mark thinks ego is at the root of most of it.
We talk about how ego in climbing has evolved—for the sport and for Mark personally—why partnerships have been the single most important element of his climbing life, and what it actually looks like to build a life around climbing without letting climbing become your entire identity. Mark built a coffee roasting company from scratch, lived in a van for ten years, spent winters in Baja, and at 70 years old remains fit, healthy, and largely injury free. He values experiences over trophies and partnerships over pride.
We also explore his remarkable relationship with Jordan Cannon—how they met, what they gave each other, and why Mark considers Jordan as close as family. And we close out talking about Mark's recent pivot to public speaking and his desire to help people acquire more agency over their own lives—a philosophy that, it turns out, he's been living since he was a teenager in New Hampshire learning to climb on granite.