Travellers planning a visit to Galápagos often ask: “What are the must-do visitor sites and activities?”

It is an understandable question. Galápagos may be a once-in-a-lifetime journey, and nobody wants to return home feeling they missed something essential. Yet before acting on the answers, it is worth questioning both the idea of a universal “must-do” list and the qualifications of the people offering one.

When advice is gathered from online forums, social media groups or fellow travellers, the respondents’ backgrounds are often unknown. Is the recommendation coming from someone who has travelled extensively and can compare Galápagos with wildlife destinations around the world? From someone who spent five days on the islands and visited only a handful of sites? Or from a Galápagos naturalist guide who has spent years observing seasonal changes, wildlife behaviour and the distinctive qualities of dozens of visitor sites?

These people may all answer confidently, but their answers are based on very different levels of knowledge and experience.

A traveller may describe one site as “the best in Galápagos” simply because it was the highlight of the only itinerary they experienced. They may have no basis for comparison with other islands, seasons or activities. A frequently repeated recommendation may therefore reflect familiarity and accessibility rather than exceptional quality.

This helps explain why “must-do” lists often favour the most famous, easily reached and widely visited places. These may be excellent experiences, but popularity does not necessarily mean they are the most rewarding choices for you.

The question also reveals very little about the person asking for advice.

Someone interested in evolutionary biology may value time observing finches, mockingbirds and the differences between related species. A keen snorkeller may prefer an hour among sea turtles, rays and reef fish to a celebrated viewpoint. A photographer may prioritize light, landscapes and patient wildlife observation. Someone interested in history or conservation may be drawn to scientific expeditions, settlement stories and the complex relationship between people and the islands.

Others may simply want quiet moments: watching marine iguanas on a beach, listening to a seabird colony or observing a giant tortoise emerge from the mist.

Before asking what you “must do,” first ask what you hope to learn, discover and experience. Which animals, landscapes or ideas interest you most? Do you prefer active exploration or slow observation? Are you drawn to geology, photography, natural history, conservation, human history or the underwater world?

Then consider the source of the advice. What did that person actually experience? How long were they in Galápagos? How widely have they travelled? Do their interests resemble yours?

Without knowing the background of the respondent, a confident recommendation may not be especially useful. Galápagos is too varied, and travellers are too different, for one person’s highlight to become everyone else’s obligation.

The best experience is not necessarily the one mentioned most often. It is the one that most closely matches your own curiosity.

We've just received the news (and video).

It looks to have run into the shoreline at Academy Bay (where the town of Puerto Ayora is located). It's not clear if the ship was significantly damaged or not. But if you're booked on it in the coming weeks, it might be a good idea to reach out to your booking agent and get more info.

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This lovely ship is a wonderful alternative for those who may be anxious about booking on a small ship (14-20 guests) but not keen on embarking on the largest ships allowed in Galapagos (100 guests). We've chartered it on a couple of occasions for our own "not for profit" friends trips over the past 4-5 years.

Let's hope the ship was not damaged / only had minor damage, and will be back in operation soon.

We've just received the news (and video).

https://preview.redd.it/ml3ntx3oon9h1.png?width=990&format=png&auto=webp&s=618d1706a2878832ac9fcf8bb9fb7c5b1e5f4bab

It looks to have run into the shoreline at Academy Bay (where the town of Puerto Ayora is located). It's not clear if the ship was significantly damaged or not. But if you're booked on it in the coming weeks, it might be a good idea to reach out to your booking agent and get more info.

This lovely ship is a wonderful alternative for those who may be anxious about booking on a small ship (14-20 guests) but not keen on embarking on the largest ships allowed in Galapagos (100 guests). We've chartered it on a couple of occasions for our own "not for profit" friends trips over the past 4-5 years.

Let's hope the ship was not damaged / only had minor damage, and will be back in operation soon.

Galapagos bound travelers may have heard / will likely hear about a gang shooting just outside the arrivals hall at the airport, with the person having been targeted and killed being a criminal gang leader. The two assailants were captured and a few bystanders were injured. This happened outside of the airport.

While insecurity due to criminal gang / drug gang activities has become a bigger issue in Ecuador, it's important to remember that these gangs do not target tourists they target each other.

Every year, over 1.3 million people visit Ecuador. We help over 500 of these people arrange their trips, with the vast majority of them spending time in Quito, some in Guayaquil. None of our guests has ever reported having been assaulted or having been the target of criminal activity.

While the risk is never zero, not even in your home town, it's important to understand that it remains small.

NOTE: Anyone using illegal drugs is part of the reason such incidents occur. Buying illegal drugs creates an illegal economy worth so much money that criminals will resort to violence to protect their revenues.

INCIDENT AT GUAYAQUIL AIRPORT YESTERDAY

Galapagos bound travelers may have heard / will likely hear about a gang shooting just outside the arrivals hall at the airport, with the person having been targeted and killed being a criminal gang leader. The two assailants were captured and a few bystanders were injured. This happened outside of the airport.

While insecurity due to criminal gang / drug gang activities has become a bigger issue in Ecuador, it's important to remember that these gangs do not target tourists they target each other.

Every year, over 1.3 million people visit Ecuador. We help over 500 of these people arrange their trips, with the vast majority of them spending time in Quito, some in Guayaquil. None of our guests has ever reported having been assaulted or having been the target of criminal activity.

While the risk is never zero, not even in your home town, it's important to understand that it remains small.

NOTE: Anyone using illegal drugs is part of the reason such incidents occur. Buying illegal drugs creates an illegal economy worth so much money that criminals will resort to violence to protect their revenues.

Shark incident yesterday
Local reports indicate a woman snorkeling at Santa Fe Island yesterday, as part of a day tour there, was bitten on the leg by a shark. She was transported to Santa Cruz hospital. This is the 2nd time in our memory (the 1st being maybe 10 years ago) that we have heard of a shark bite incident at Santa Fe.

Sharks are very common in Galapagos, yet incidents such as these are very rare. We do see reports of a shark bite every few years (no reports of deaths).

Given that on any one day, there are likely thousands of people snorkeling and swimming in Galapagos, 365 days / year, the risk is indeed extremely low - but not zero. Everyone should be aware of that.

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These are two very distinct jobs. We've published a short article highlighting the differences.

Hello. I'm planning a trip with my 12 year old daughter. We're considering a 5 day/4 night cruise on a 16 passenger catamaran (the Nemo II) on a Southeastern itinerary. We're also considering a much more luxurious ship - that not surprisingly costs more than double what we'd pay for the Nemo II.

My question is: is it worth the extra cost to take the nicer ship? Will we have much downtime where the nicer accomodations would make a difference? Or will we be so tired, we'll just want to nap in our cabin?

It would be fine if it were me alone but my concern is my daughter getting bored between excurisions (even though I'm not sure what she'd do on the nicer ship).

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I was recently on an 8-day active cruise with CNH Tours, which meant snorkeling or kayaking, and hikes everyday. The sun is no joke out there, so I’m sharing this in hopes you’ll arrive better prepared. Take this with a grain of salt since I may have forgotten a thing or two!

Clothing:

• Loose-fitting long sleeve shirt/hoodie with UPF protection. Bonus points if it has thumb holes and extends over the tops of your hands. Bring 2 to rotate
• Long sleeve vented button-up over a tank seemed like a smart move for extra mosquito protection without overheating. I didn't bring this but it could be nice.
• REI Sahara convertible pants: perfect mosquito + sun protection and vented in all the right places.
• Boat-Wear: Loose wide-leg pants, like the kind you’d wear in Thailand. The humidity makes everything feel hotter than you expect. A sundress or flowy things are nice to lounge in.
• Quick-dry airy shorts for options.
• Sports bra/bralette. Great for under shirts because you will sweat a ton.

Shoes / Water Gear:

• I brought Keen Whisper closed-toe sandals and they were perfect for both wet and dry landings. You can wear socks with them for hikes.
• Water socks that go above your ankles are great with flippers and help prevent rubbing/blisters.
• Dry bag to hold your things for dinghy rides was useful
• Swim leggings were clutch for snorkeling since the wetsuits they provided were shorties. Don't forget a long sleeve rash guard too!

Sun + Bug Protection:

• Brimmed hat that covers your neck. You’ll want one with a little structure because floppy hats don’t photograph as well. Reverse split brims are nice too.
• Fingerless sun gloves: I didn’t bring these and regretted it. My hands are dramatically tanner than the rest of my body now.
• Polarized sunglasses made for water were especially useful on the dinghies for spotting eagle rays and turtles in the water, past the glare
• Sunscreen: We brought two 3 oz bottles of sensitive skin Blue Lizard. Mineral, reef-safe, and the perfect amount for me + my husband for 8 days.
• Bug repellent: DO NOT forget this. Picaridin spray/lotion worked well.
• Chapstick with sunscreen - I have sensitive lips! Protect your skin barrier.

Misc:

• Binoculars: Borrow from family or friends if you have to. I wouldn't have seen half the animals I did if I didn't bring one.
• Small handheld fan was surprisingly clutch.
• Electrolyte packets.
• Extra swimsuit so you’re not constantly putting on a damp one.
• Motion sickness meds. I used Bonine and took it the night before the cruise and then 1x every evening. It was perf
• Bring a book. The onboard WiFi was ok and honestly it was nice to digitally detox a bit.
• Small exfoliating wash cloth. This would've been nice to get all the sunscreen off in the shower at the end of the day. Mineral white cast really clings on.
• Small backpack for the hikes to hold all the extra things
• Water bottle

Notwithstanding some bees and wasps, the only poisonous land species in Galapagos are scorpions and centipedes. There are two Galapagos scorpion species - the Hadruroides maculatus galapagoensis, which occurs on most of the major islands and the Centruroides exsul, which occurs on Española, San Cristobal, Santa Cruz and Pinta islands.  You will likely not see them unless you have a good guide who knows how to find them.  None has a particularly dangerous sting, though they may cause a bit of pain.   There is also the Galapagos centipede, Scolopendra galapagoensis, which can grow up to 30 centimetres (12 inches) long, and has a wonderful pair of venomous pincers which can deliver a painful, poisonous bite but not deadly.

It has become easier to make one's own flight arrangements from continental Ecuador to Galapagos. Before considering doing so, it is very important to note that cruise ships have rigid schedules.  They sail at a set time, from one of three places in Galapagos, and drop off passengers for flights back to the continent at set times, again in one of three places in Galapagos.  Ship owners have access to guaranteed spaces aboard specific flights that ensure a seamless trip from the continent, to Galapagos, to the ship.  It is strongly recommended that you have the ship book your flights to avoid any problems.   Anyone booking flights independently assumes the consequences of being on the wrong flight and arriving after the ship has sailed, flying to the wrong airport in the islands.  This might mean missing your cruise, or having to hire a private transport to your ship at a cost of $1,000 or more.   

Taking a few days post-cruise to relax and enjoy the local scene is a great idea.

Cruises typically end at one of three places: i) Baltra Airport - from there, you can get to Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz island. ii) Puerto Baquerizo Moreno on San Cristobal island and iii) In Puerto Ayora proper (Santa Cruz Island).

Once off your ship, if you're just thinking of taking a couple of extra days, it's usually easier to just stay put in the nearest town. If you have more time, you can consider checking out other places as well.

Towns are:

i) Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island.  This is the largest (accessible via Baltra Island airport, a 1.5-hour trip by land and ferry) and has the most services in terms of restaurants, shops, bars, scuba outfitters and hotels.  The Charles Darwin Research Station is located here.

ii) Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, on San Cristobal Island.  This is the seat of the provincial government and comes across as more of a government town.  It has all the necessary infrastructure for visitors, but is about ¼ the size of Puerto Ayora.  Access is by San Cristobal airport, just 3 minutes away by taxi, or a 15-minute walk down the road!  The town is also connected to Puerto Ayora via a 3 hour ferry "speed boat" ferry service.

iii) Puerto Villamil, on Isabela Island.  Sand roads, a fairly quiet little town, ¼ again the size of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno but located close to many good natural visitor areas.  Hotel and restaurant options are more limited here. Access is by boat from Puerto Ayora or via small inter-island plane service. 

iv)  Puerto Velasco Ibarra, Floreana:  A tiny settlement, with only 110 residents, and extremely limited hotel/restaurant options.  You can't just show up - make sure you plan ahead.   Access is by boat from Puerto Ayora, but service is not regular.

The more flexibility you have in terms of cruise start / end dates, the great the number of ships and itineraries you'll be able to consider when choosing a cruise.   If you choose your international flights before you choose a cruise, you might end up with few options, none of which is ideal.  We strongly recommend that you choose your cruise first, and then deal with international flights.

Small ships (8-20 passengers) are more common in Galapagos and offer a greater diversity in terms of comfort and design.    Roughly 40 ships fall into this category.   They come in different comfort classes, from the most rudimentary to luxury.   Some have small cabins with bunk beds and little public space, while others have ample decks, salons and spacious cabins.   There are monohulls and catamarans.   Small ships carry fewer people and tend to have more flexibility while sailing - e.g. if whales are spotted, the ships can more easily maneuver or linger among them.  

If dolphins are riding the bow wave (not uncommon), it's possible on most small ships to go to the bow and watch them from just a few metres away. You can't do that on a big ship.   Small ships are a bit less intrusive as well.  When you wake up after a night cruise, and you find yourself moored in a remote bay, all alone, on a small ship, you might feel more in harmony with your surroundings.  On the downside, small ships will feel choppy seas more than a larger ship does - so if you're particularly sensitive to that kind of thing, it could be a consideration.  

Large ships (49-100 passengers) tend to come only in the higher comfort-level classes (you'll be hard-pressed to find a lower-priced cruise on a large ship).   There are about 7 large ships.  They have more public space and are more stable on the water.   Larger ships might be a better idea if you're considering going to Galapagos from July - November, when seas are a bit choppier, particularly if you don't handle ship movement too well.  

Finally, there are about 15 middle-sized ships (21-48 passengers) that combine some of the pros and cons of both the small and large ships.

HarveyMilkTheCat

EcoVentura - Origin - Review

Hi everyone -

I thought I'd just drop a quick review on EcoVentura. I agree with most of the posts on here that it was an extremely nice cruise, with very knowledgeable and sophisticated guides and crew, and amazing food. For the price and positioning of the cruise, I was a little disappointed at how they handled some of the hiccups, but I would still recommend this cruise to folks, particularly the active/fit/healthy retired couple bracket, or those traveling with multigenerational families.

On our boat, there were three families (4 (middle age parents and college aged teens), 4 (parents in their 70s and kids in their thirties), and 6 (late 70s grandparents, early 40s parents, and preteen kids) and three senior couples. Itinerary B was as action and activity packed, and our fit 70 year old parents definitely felt worn out at the end of each day. That said, as two fit men in their thirties, we did not ever feel like the activities were fitness forward, difficult, or wore us out -- the "hikes" were mostly one to 1.5 mile walks/strolls taking place over 90 or so minutes.

Crew Attentiveness

Our dad has a condition which limits his arm strength and hand dexterity. He's otherwise an extremely fit and active man in his 70s, but we were somewhat worried about navigating the boat and some of the activities given this limitation. We were all blown away by the attentiveness of the staff, their help getting in and out of the boat, and other small accommodations that never once had to be asked for (bringing a cup with a handle to dinner to each day; assistance with the wet suit, etc.), it was just done as a matter of course by the crew.

Food

The food was excellent, as others have commented. Breakfast and lunch are buffet style, oftentimes with two snacks served each day. Dinner is a coursed meal, and what was really was surprising was the accommodation and creativity that the chefs made for one of our family members (the only one on board) who was a vegetarian. Each day, there was a new dinner menu for both the vegetarian and non-vegetarians alike of equal sophistication and quality.

Hiccups

Unfortunately, our boat had a few hiccups. For starters, there was an engine/air conditioner/generator issue which caused the first few days of the cabin to be extremely hot and humid (pushing eighty degrees most days). They initially said this was exacerbated by the unusually warm sea water, but regardless of the justification, it made the first few days on the boat extremely uncomfortable, difficult to sleep, and unpleasant. At first, we thought this issue was isolated to the rear rooms (9 and 10), but towards the third night, every room was dealing with the air conditioning issue. I was surprised that the crew did not make an announcement or discuss the anticipated resolution for the AC issues; at nearly $20k a room, you shouldn't be sweating in bed.

For the rooms, it's worth mentioning that the rear rooms (9 and 10) are really quite loud when the engine is on. As the boat typically moves from location to location overnight, that can present an issue with room noise and sleeping quality. We brought ear-plugs, but frankly, the noise was so loud that if you're a particularly soft sleeper, you may want to disclose that to Ecoventura in advance of the crew (your room is pre-assigned).

Other hiccups included an issue with the anchor and with refueling delays. There was limited information about the delays while we dealing with them and it would have been nice to have been better informed. While neither were caused by EcoVentura incompetence or negligence, it did cause us to miss two separate activities; I was hoping that EcoVentura would have made up for this somehow (either with an additional lecture, or maybe encouraging swimming around the boat, etc.), but unfortunately, we lost multiple hours long chunks of our trip.

Lastly, our bags were delayed in being delivered to the airport. This wasn't a huge deal, but on a holistic basis with the other hiccups, it contributed to feeling like the quality of service did not match the price-tag.

Trip Design

We've only been to the Galapagos for this cruise, so we can't comment on whether Trip A or B would have been a better itinerary, though for those looking for the Waved Albatross, please note that Trip B *does not* see that bird.

That said, I felt like the final two days were a bit of a letdown. The Puerto Arroyo Day, with a bus ride to a tortoise sanctuary, visit to an interpretive center, and multiple hours in the town, was a little boring and felt like an after-thought. Some may appreciate the opportunity for souvenir shopping, but I feel like we wanted more activities (hiking, swimming, etc.) than what this day provided for. This was coupled with the fact that the following day in San Cristobal felt very similar to the day in Puerto Arroyo -- a visit to an interpretive center followed by a few hours strolling through town for souvenirs before flying home.

Activities

The primary activities are land-based strolls and water-based snorkeling. This was a decent trip for birding -- we saw many of the highlight species, including the Galapagos Penguin and Hawk, all three Boobies, Short-Eared Owl, Flightless Cormorant, and several other endemics. Our snorkeling was equally as fruitful, with rays, sea lions, turtles, penguins, iguanas, three kinds of sharks, including hammerheads, and cormorants, as well as numerous fish.

The gear on board (wetsuits, fins, mask, snorkel) is fine; however, the water quality can be pretty murky at times, so I would strongly encourage anyone who wears glasses to either bring contacts or buy a prescription dive mask. I wear glasses, but have a fairly mild prescription, so opted to not bring a prescription mask and I missed out on seeing multiple schools of rays because they were just outside of my field of vision.

Activities can be muddy or slippery and subject to the tyranny of the minority. While hiking Cerro Dragon, we watched multiple groups turn around because of the thick, slippery mud right before a clearing with an unexpected land tortoise and multiple land iguanas (which was our tour's only opportunity to see). The guides will accommodate the weakest/slowest/coldest/etc. person in the group and turn around or return to the boat if that person wants to go back, as everyone must be accompanied by a guide at all times. This was particularly acute on our tour as the children would get cold snorkeling and oftentimes want to return to the boat earlier than the group without children.

On Punta Espinoza, the landing on lava rocks was extraordinarily slippery and nearly everyone lost their footing. Our dad fell and cut his face, but he was well attended to by the guide and later by the captain of the boat. This is to say that accidents happen, bring shoes with good tread, and take the hiking poles they offer.

Clothing

We essentially lived in long-sleeve, SPF50 shirts from Cotopaxi and Mountain Hardware. I would suggest bringing bug spray and sunscreen for every land outing; there were a few times when the guides told us not to worry about bugs that I was nonetheless eaten alive.

The water was very warm, particularly on the islands east of Isabela. You may find the wetsuit is too warm for that water; a rash guard or other sun-protection while snorkeling would be a good thing to pack.

The crew offered free laundry services, typically with a one day turnaround time. Given there are typically multiple activities a day, and you'll get sweaty or wet for most of them, you'll find a lot of clothes are hanging up to dry overnight in the shower so try to plan accordingly.