u/DorsiaTravel

Image 1 — African wild dog collaring
Image 2 — African wild dog collaring
Image 3 — African wild dog collaring
Image 4 — African wild dog collaring
Image 5 — African wild dog collaring

African wild dog collaring

Before I go anywhere on safari, I ask if there are any conservation projects near the camp. These are usually local conservation charities that need something paid for, in this case a collar, and as a visitor you get to ride along whilst they go about their job. It’s like being an unpaid intern, except you, the intern, pays. Oh, so when they do it it's fine, but when I offer people the chance to clean my gutters and pay me for the privilege, suddenly it’s “exploitation”.

In the last twelve months I’ve been there for a rhino relocation, rhino dehorning, elephant collaring and, now, my favourite animal, the African wild dog, sometimes known as the painted wolf. They’re one of the most underappreciated, endangered predators in Africa. I have far too many books on them, and one of my favourites opens with the view that if you set out to design the perfect animal — a ruthlessly efficient predator that has never attacked a person in the wild, good-looking, and devoted to its family — you’d be wasting your time, as it already exists. Facts.

Wild dogs cover enormous distances and have little interest in the difference between the reserve and your farm. When a pack wanders off, it’s dealing with roads, but more importantly, unhappy farmers and domestic dogs carrying rabies, distemper and god knows what. Have you seen what your dog is up to? Wild dogs are incredibly social, so once disease gets into one, it’s not unusual for the entire pack to die. A GPS collar lets the team know where the whole pack is, close to real time, so they can get there before a problem becomes a funeral.

Anywho, my prayers were answered when it came back that there was a pack near where I was staying that needed collaring. So one afternoon, off we went looking for them. Never before have I felt more manly than here. Testosterone levels reached eleven, I promise you. With a buffalo leg in the back of the truck in case it was needed to lure them out, and me standing on the back of the car as we drove around… for the first hour. Then the sun hit, and I slithered my way into the front seat.

After nearly three hours of trying, with all hope (and light) starting to fade, we found them, the vet darted one, and in "we" went. The moment the dart hits, the rest of the pack are spooked and run from the sound, and in less than a minute the heroic dog is down, having a nice snooze. The vet goes in, checks all is well, and then the work starts.

I “helped” lift up the pooch and screw in the collar, much like your three-year-old child “helps” you make dinner. They just made me feel good about not being a complete waste of space. But for around 40 minutes, whilst they worked their magic, it was an incredible experience to be there with Mr. Fluffles, as I have christened him. At the end, they trimmed the collar and gave me the offcut as a souvenir, which I have now stored in my wallet for the rest of my life, as those pictures of my family aren't really needed anymore.

These "activities" are always an honour; always a privilege.

u/DorsiaTravel — 6 days ago

MalaMala Khensani River Lodge

Whilst over at MalaMala Rattray’s Lodge (side note: what a terrible name), I was given a hard-hat tour of their upcoming Khensani River Lodge. It's not opening until December, so I had to use this thing called "imagination" to really picture the finished article, but there was enough for me to understand that this is going to be an exceptional property, in a great location, on a brilliant concession. I imagine Singita and Londolozi are cacking their pants around about now. Maybe even their own property, Tengile River Lodge, too, as I imagine it cannibalises some of their own business.

If they can get the service and food at a high level (and a lot of ex-Singita people have moved), this might be the place to go in Greater Kruger. MalaMala has suffered from the lodges looking, what we experts call, a bit shit, but that perception is going to completely change with this opening.

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u/DorsiaTravel — 10 days ago

AMA: Greater Kruger Luxury Safari (Singita Lebombo, Royal Malewane, Mala Mala Rattray's, Tengile River Lodge)

Working my way around South Africa, with the occasional lion and buffalo for company. Feel free to ask any questions.

u/DorsiaTravel — 16 days ago

Vestige Xaudum (Namibia) opening date announced

I don't know if I love, or am just intrigued by, the randomness of where some hotel groups decide to launch. Last year, Le K2, known for their skiing properties in France, announced they're launching in the Maldives. And then Vestige, known for all their properties in Spain, announced they'd launch not one, not two, not even three, but four properties at the same time in Namibia. YOLO etc etc.

Anywho, have to say, it is very intriguing as Namibia lags so far behind its neighbours in the luxury market. But, best laid plans, and that "Autumn 2026" date ain't gonna happen, and instead they're coming piecemeal with Xaudum just announced as opening in March next year.

https://vestigecollection.com/namibia/

I'll wait until they've finished all four properties so I can do the entire circuit, but if anyone wants to volunteer to go first...

u/DorsiaTravel — 1 month ago

AMA: Botswana (Daunara, Baines' Lodge, Jao Camp)

As I had not been on safari for 11 days (actually true), I'm back in Botswana to try out a few new-ish camps, and return to Jao after all the legal shenanigans with Wilderness. Happy to answer any questions as I make my way through.

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u/DorsiaTravel — 2 months ago

Elephant collaring on safari

There are a few times a year where I get to stand somewhere and think: WTF is happening. Occasionally in a good way.

I used to be obsessed with going on every single game drive, convinced that the one I didn't go out on something so remarkable would happen that I'd be internet shamed for millennia for not having witnessed it.

But these days I read the additional activities list first. My kids have shadowed an anti-poaching unit, visited local schools, swum in rivers, learnt to fish, stargazed with people who (apparently) know what they're talking about, and hiked up hills to stare at bushman paintings. "Hiked" is doing a lot of work there. They were carried.

But, without a doubt, the coolest thing is when the conservation team come calling. There are times when they need to sedate an animal in order to tag it, as part of their efforts of trying to reduce human/animal conflict and know where the animals are. I've been lucky enough to do this twice with rhinos, once as part of a relocation project in Zimbabwe, where the area had simply ended up with too many of them. There are worse problems.

Last week, we were present for an elephant collaring. Essentially, the conservation teams need donations for these things, cos helicopters are as expensive as you may imagine helicopters are, so they rely on guests. I guess this counts as my good deed of the year and I'll take the other 5 months off. They dart it, it goes down, and you've got roughly thirty-sixty minutes to fit the collar and do whatever else they need to do, before it wakes up and reconsiders its relationship with everyone standing nearby. We were there for the whole thing.

Being next to the largest land animal in the world is quite something. I've included a video where you can hear it breathing.

Lions next, I guess...

https://reddit.com/link/1vq2v56/video/35xfrh3trrjh1/player

u/DorsiaTravel — 2 months ago

Review: Singita Mara River Tented Camp

That was one of the weirdest experiences I've ever had with a guide. Ever. Across the many, many safari camps I've stayed.

I cannot quite articulate just how mental it was, other than the photographer I had with me just kept laughing at almost every interaction, as that is all you could do.

Oh, to be a fly on the wall at their next company meeting.

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u/DorsiaTravel — 2 months ago

Second visit regrets

Ever been somewhere that you loved, returned, and it just took a massive shit on your soul? Let's hear the details.

(I'm writing this having just had the opposite experience; going somewhere I love, returning and finding it better - but misery loves company).

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u/DorsiaTravel — 2 months ago

AMA: Kisawa, Mozambique

I'm back for the second time - back to a place I was incredibly (and I mean incredibly) suspicious of when it was announced, but immediately won over the moment I arrived on property. Kisawa is one of those truly "one of a kind" places that stands alongside the real greats of the industry. It is the destination itself, and warrants traveling long-haul just to come here, rather than feeling the need to combine it with anywhere else (even though we are doing just that and going on safari afterwards).

Happy to answer any questions whilst I'm here, as this time my family (kids aged 5 and 3) are here too.

u/DorsiaTravel — 3 months ago

Tanzania - The Great Migration

I have waited so, so long to experience these two events: a croc having a nibble at a river crossing, and lions taking down a buffalo in daylight. I wrote about it last year: https://dorsiatravel.com/hyper-focused-safari-experiences and love to annoy my guide at every opportunity and ask for it, only to see the absolute look of despair in their eye when they know it won't happen. They are both extremely rare. So rare, that in having been to over 100 safari lodges, and spending over 2 months a year in Africa for the last decade, I've only mostly seen lions fail at hunts (or, most likely, sleep) and crocs sit motionless.

And so, I just departed Singita Mara River Tented Camp and Sasakwa, for my second and nine billionth time, respectively, and quite astonishingly, against every odd imaginable, managed to get not one, but both events. I booked this trip for myself, purely for those two events.

So please use this post as evidence to annoy your guide too, showing it is indeed possible and all they need to do is work harder.

u/DorsiaTravel — 3 months ago

The new luxury offerings of the Mara

Like buses and all that....

The Mara has, from a luxury perspective, been the ugly duckling's hideous step-sister to the Serengeti, where Singita rules supreme. And Singita has managed to keep getting better, with major refurbs and new villa openings, like Milele and Kilima.

But, in just the last few years, ultra-luxury, exclusive use properties have appeared in the Mara. Wild Hill started the trend and set the standard back in '24, when I was amongst the first guests to visit. I love that property. The design, style, service, etc etc. And that it's on a private concession, so it opens up lots of activities beyond game drives. But, I'm always making it clear to prospective clients that it sits right on the edge of the Mara, and those wanting to be amongst the herds and see river crossings need to head out on either helicopters or full day trips. Not that this should be the entire reason for going there, but I get that for a lot of people it is.

Last week, I got back from Loirien Mara, which is a neighbour of Angama Mara. It was originally a private home, and subsequently commercialised (like so many of these properties are) with two new "villas" added. Basically, the new villas are two bedroom options, so villa feels a tad too grand.

And now, in just a few weeks, perhaps the highest end of them all, Zamara Private, a six-bedroom, exclusive use villa by Great Plains, will be opening at $32,500/n

But, this is where the Mara is still tricky. Cos whilst Singita offers you and only you access to their concession, the Mara likes to engage in foreplay and then tell you to fuck off right before the action begins. Still with me? Good. Point is: in my not-so-humble opinion, the Mara Triangle or Mara Reserve suck. They are extremely busy, queues everywhere, cars charging in, and they've even had to implement speed cameras. For me, as a photographer, I hate (but understand why they've done it) that they prevent off-roading, meaning, at times, you may as well just look at pictures of animals on your phone as you'll have a better chance than seeing whatever is in the nearby bush. Loirien is in the Mara Triangle; Zamara is in the Main Reserve.

Loirien is on its own private concession, as part of their rhino re-introduction programme (which is a super cool experience), but you will still spend most of your time in the Triangle. And Zamara, hopefully, has some way of overcoming the nightmare of the Reserve. But for now, Singita is still sitting pretty.

This was about my tenth visit to the Mara, and each time it somehow finds a way of becoming worse. It's like the Fast and Furious of movies, where you wonder how they even got to that number, and why you're still watching it. For years, I have not been able to bring myself to suggest anywhere that is not on a private concession in the Mara, and only found that opinion enforced more from this trip.

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u/DorsiaTravel — 4 months ago

AMA: Exclusive use villas in Kenya (Reteti House, Sirai House, Lorian Mara, Cottar's Bush Villa)

I'm on another Kenya safari tour, this time staying by myself at exclusive use properties that range from 3 to 6 bedrooms. Space probably won't be an issue. Happy to answer any questions as I make my way around them. First-up: Reteti House.

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u/DorsiaTravel — 4 months ago

AMA: Royal Mansour, Tamuda Bay

Royal Mansour is best known for their Marrakech property, but in recent years have opened in Casablanca and now here, near Tangier. It's a 3-hour flight from London, so let's just split the difference and call it Europe.

I'm here with the kids (aged 5 and 3) during half-term in a two-bedroom suite. Happy to answer any questions.

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u/DorsiaTravel — 5 months ago

Am I too harsh on the Seychelles?

We receive a regular flow of enquiries for the Seychelles, but few confirmed bookings - my misery seems to either put most people off going entirely, or at least off booking it with us.

Which is a bit of a shitter, because I love the islands. Along with Fiji, they’re probably the most beautiful islands in the world. But I struggle with the luxury offering. I have little to no excitement about the properties.

Neither Four Seasons stand out, Six Senses is generic and beachless, Waldorf is decent, but not worth flying half-way around the world to visit that island. Cheval was disappointing. So it really leaves North Island, which has its own set of flaws that is somewhat hard to get over at that price point, or La Cigale that most people don't want as mostly people are going on honeymoon and are strangely put off by staying in a nine-bedroom villa.

Hence why I’m so keen on Fregate reopening, and why we already have a mountain of enquiries for it. But am I just being overly negative?

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u/DorsiaTravel — 5 months ago

Adventure/luxury blend

Maybe I’m getting old, less naive, or more middle aged, but I’m finding myself more focused on the experience than the luxury itself at the moment. Not so much you need to worry about me - trust me, I ain't heading into Mongolia to live with a shepherd. Just yet.

In an ideal world, both adventure and luxury co-exist, and increasingly they do.  Who would’ve thought one of the best lodges in Africa would be in Rwanda for gorilla trekking?  Or that Antarctica would have somewhere to sleep that doesn't require a mild case of amputation in the morning?

But there’s still a point where luxury just isn’t really there yet.  Swimming with orcas.  Climbing Kilimanjaro.  Even things like seeing the wildebeest birthing, over in Mwiba, is not top-tier, even if by most people's definition it is. There's certain expeditions where “comfortable” simply means you probably won’t get hypothermia.

So where are people drawing the line with this stuff?

Do you just accept that some of the best experiences require a degree of suffering?  Or are you still firmly in the luxury-or-nothing camp? No wrong answers.

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u/DorsiaTravel — 5 months ago