u/DuckRover

How to start hangboarding

I've finally (after 9 years of climbing!) picked a project I want to work on. It's an outdoor route. I've top roped it and there's a sustained crimpy section that I can't seem to get through without taking a rest and I find that my sub-par grip strength causes me to use generally poor form after the first few moves in that section.

My gym tends to have a lot of pumpy, physical routes and the setters don't tend to favor crimpy, technical, balancey climbs so I don't get to train on indoor climbs that mimic this project very often. I get outside when I can but it seems like now would be a good time to introduce hangboarding to supplement what I'm already doing.

My gym has several hangboards. I typically do pull-ups on them by gripping the top so I'm using to that scapular engagement.

But...do I just start with the deepest holds and work my way up to the shallower ones?

I climb 3 times per week. Should I hangboard each time?

Before or after climbing?

How long should I work up to hanging on each depth for? How will I know when I'm ready to move to a shallower hold?

Any advice from experienced hangboarders is welcome!

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u/DuckRover — 3 days ago