u/Equivalent_Garlic685

Was thinking about this admittedly contrived situation:

You're the last to rappel down a waterfall. Flow up top is heavy, but you pass under the curtain and the rest is mellow.

But halfway down, you find a nasty looking core shot. Tying it off and passing it wouldn't be an issue, sure. But, in this case, you really need to recover this rope to escape the canyon. There's no way to climb back to the top. The water flow is too heavy to ascend back to your anchor.

So, very very carefully, you take a big bight with the core shot at the apex and use the pull side to tie a CEM around it. You pass the knot onto the original pull side below the CEM. Then you rappel down.

At the bottom, you pull the core shot side to undo the CEM, then retrieve your rope like normal.

Sounds spooky, but maybe not an entirely crazy thing to do?

Obviously, you need to be comfortable tying the CEM in a strange way and uncomfortable situation. Transition without pulling the wrong side. Don't mess it up or you fall.

Am I missing any other glaring reasons why this is a bad idea? Or is there some simpler/safer solution I've bypassed?

Hanging CEM. Blue hair tie is the core shot on the carabiner-blocked rappel side of the rope. The side leaving out the bottom of the frame is the pull side of the original rappel, but the side you can now rappel.

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u/Equivalent_Garlic685 — 21 days ago