Dehumidifying finished and unfinished basement

I have a large 1200 sqft finished basement with a ducted heat pump, and a smaller 300 sqft unfinished but insulated utility room that needs a dehumidifier. Rather than using a cheap stand alone dehumidifier that only treats the unfinished space is there value in installing a ducted dehumidifier such as a AprilAire E080 Pro and routing it to treat both the unfinished room AND simultaneously assisting the ducted heat pump with dehumidification?

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u/Gastr1c — 28 days ago

Here's an story to encourage everyone to spend time shopping for their mortgage.

My rate started at 6.375 with no points from my Realtor's broker. I then literally spent a full day from 9AM to 10PM shopping mortgages with big banks, small banks, online banks, local credit unions, and some mortgage brokers. I eventually found Tomo online and one local bank Fifth Third Bank offering 6% with no points which was very promising. The Realtor broker then matched those. So at this point I had earned a nice rate reduction with minimal effort. Everyone else was in between, including some requiring points to get close to 6%. Most lender fees were $1200-$1600. One local credit union had an archaic 1% origination fee which was just laughable.

Then towards the end of my efforts I happened to find a local broker Patriot Financial https://www.patfinancial.com/ (I don't recall where, but I think via LendingTree) and they had a serious outlier deal at 6% with $5700 in lender credits. Rates dropped the less credits you took. Nobody else had even been offering lender CREDITS, only par or points. Honestly, it was too good to believe but after some research I was surprised to learn they're literally in my town (a weird journey to find a broker that happened to be in town), have plenty of Google reviews and other online reviews. I thought they were NC only, but apparently they're licensed in 14 states. If I had stopped there I'd still have come out far ahead of where I started.

I then sent that broker's worksheet to a few of the other lenders to see if they would beat it. Most simply said they couldn't. Tomo matched the rate, had no lender fees, but made a serious attempt to try to match the lender credits but it wasn't good enough. I eventually got Chase of all places to match the rate and nearly match the lender credits, plus for my particular situation they offer a variety of additional cash bonuses for opening new accounts, and other relationship bonuses that further reduced my mortgage interest rate. For me all of those bonuses, thousands in lender credits, plus a further reduction in my rate was too good to pass up. The crazy thing is the only reason I even called Chase at all was because they hold my current mortgage and I was hoping that would somehow earn me brownie points (it was irrelevant). Otherwise I probably wouldn't have bothered to contact them.

The hours I invested earned me thousands in lender credits and bonuses, and hundreds of dollars a month off my mortgage.

Just sharing my adventure as motivation for people to seriously shop around. It can earn you a serious payday.

u/Gastr1c — 1 month ago

I'm moving into a house with a finished basement with a full bath about 40 ft away from an ejector pit. I've never lived anywhere that's had anything other than gravity drains so all of this is totally new to me.

The pit is located in an unfinished utility room in the basement which is also where the water main, some HVAC, radon mitigation, and other utility stuff lives. The drain line for the bathroom must be buried in the basement slab but obviously ends in the pit.

I'm considering adding the following to the basement:

  • Kitchenette which will include a full sized sink and dishwasher
  • Laundry hookups somewhere in the unfinished utility room

My question is how exactly do you connect new services to a ejector pit? I'm assuming the new lines in question will be high enough and close enough to the pit where they could gravity drain through the lid. But I haven't seen any photos online where anything other than the pump exit and vent penetrate the top. So that leaves me to assume someone would have to jackhammer up some amount of the slab and run a new line into the side of the pit?

I'm just trying to educate myself so I can think about how much this part of the plumbing might cost, and how to minimize that cost as much as possible.

https://preview.redd.it/l4cu5vpao7yg1.jpg?width=1500&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c8889c36e233b88ef60abb433e15decbff71dc34

https://preview.redd.it/fcif1pj1p7yg1.png?width=932&format=png&auto=webp&s=09986a5939a740084c95c7cc2f848ec33662e476

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u/Gastr1c — 1 month ago

This has to be a fairly common issue since these don't appear to have any kind of industry standard (very annoying). What are common solutions when the existing stone countertop cutout is slightly larger than the required cutout for a replacement cooktop?

Existing proud mounted Whirlpool Gold radiant cooktop cutout from its spec sheet:

  • 29.5" x 20.5" (749mm x 520mm)

Examples of new cooktop cutout requirements:

  • Bosch Benchmark 30" (they give a range): 28 3/4 - 28 7/8" x 19 7/8 - 20" (731-734mm x 505-508mm
  • Wolf C130460T/S: 29" x 19.5" (736.6mm x 495.3mm)
  • Meile KM 7735 FL: 28 5/8" x 20.5" (724mm x 518mm) proud mounted, flush mount are 773mm x 542mm with an internal lip 749mm x 518mm
u/Gastr1c — 2 months ago

We've been using a 30" Wolf gas cooktop for the past 10 years with no real complaints other than the side-mounted knobs means the burners are a little close together when using multiple large-sized pots. We're moving to a new house with an existing electric radiant cooktop with 240V 40A circuit available and plan to replace it with induction.

What is the functional difference when using something like a rectangular cast iron griddle on a stove with a rectangular flex zone such as:

As compared to a cooktop with two normal burners that are bridged such as:

I would think if the rectangular flex zones are using wide rectangular magnets they would provide more even heating in the middle and corners of the griddle, which is a mi or problem with the gas’s stove.

It also seems both the Meile and Wolf provide more space between the largest/primary burner and the others which I'm thinking we would prefer. The Bosch puts the largest/primary smack in the center of the cooktop.

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https://preview.redd.it/l1fp1hjzhlxg1.png?width=1624&format=png&auto=webp&s=b96d06b0e1e8715afdcd5a49febb2824c0531c5c

https://preview.redd.it/fvk5cgjzhlxg1.png?width=1804&format=png&auto=webp&s=da1ffc498a210dfbb379c7f9a8694ab39dee3b0a

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u/Gastr1c — 2 months ago