The model was made by Martin.Taichi on Makerworld (https://makerworld.com/en/@martin.taichl)
Printed on my Bambu P1S. Took 24 print hours and 350 grams of PLA. This is my warmup for printing and assembling his scale model of Atlantis!
Not as happy with how this one came out. Rear of the saucer had some printing issues, but found some settings to tweak to avoid that next time. I also didn’t notice until it was printed that the Bussard covers are missing from the model, so the front of the nacelles are incomplete.
The second of my STO ships to bear the name Hawking, replacing the Intrepid Class Hawking.
Ignore the scorch marks… a friend suggested using a lighter to get rid of PLA hairs, it was my first time trying it.
Hey everyone. I’ve got an issue with my P1S where supports keep breaking. This one happened 8 hours into a 10 hour print. I’m wondering what might be causing it, and how i could prevent it going forward.
Update: thanks everyone for the feedback. It seems the most common suggestions are:
I’ll give them all a try.
I’m looking at upgrades for my P1S and came across the ObXidian hotend. It claims to be 50% faster and less prone to clogging.
I’ve got a few questions for anyone who’s purchased it:
is it really that much faster than the standard hotend?
do you need the “complete hotend” or just the hotend alone when upgrading the P1S?
Is it worth the $77 (or $115) price?
Yesterday’s print was the Intrepid-Class USS Hawking NCC-74659. It was my main ship in Star Trek Online before i got the Lamarr-Class and made it the Hawking A… which is in the printer now!
A little bit of scarring from supports, still dialing in the settings to minimize that.
Had some issues with my first 3D printer so got myself a new Bambu P1S. This was my first non-Benchy print.
Honestly, i dunno who designed the ship. I saw an AI generated image on Facebook and loved the concept, so I made a 3D render of it to print. With more time and experience I plan to design my own ships from start to finish.
Okay, technically my second, but the first was Benchy McBoatface to test settings. You can’t even see where the supports attached (third image is the model in slicer showing the supports).
This is my second printer, my first was a Creality Ender-5 Max, the P1S puts that to shame as far as quality of print goes! Should have gone Bambu from the start!
Hey everyone.
A little intro: I’m relatively new to 3D printing. I’ve had a Creality E5-Max for a few months and been learning the craft on it. However, it’s been an unfriendly beast for this newbie and i finally pulled the trigger and ordered the Bambu P1S Combo since they have a sale going currently. It should arrive next week! So excited!
My question: I’ve read that using PETG for support and PLA for the model gets really good results, easily removed supports and minimal scarring. It has me considering getting a roll of PETG specifically for supports. So i was wondering if any of you P1S users have any feedback on printing this way? How well does the printer handle it? What are some things to be careful or concerned about? Any slicer settings that i need to be extra cautious with?
Any and all feedback appreciated.
I purchased an Ender-5 Max earlier this year and it has been a non-stop nightmare and money pit. I’ve decided to switch to Bambu going forward, as their customer feedback is much more positive compared to Creality.
My E5-Max is unmodified, all stock parts, but would come with a second build plate, a spare unopened motherboard, full enclosure, and Nebula camera.
The downside is that it has a printed replacement for the front toolhead cover, which is gray so looks a little out of place.
It’s less than six months old and Google lists $300-$700 as the price range for used stock units. What would you guys say would be a fair price for my whole setup?