Looking to get 3x of these printed. This will be sandwiched between the jack and what it's lifting, so as much as 350lbs of compression force on each.
https://makerworld.com/en/models/2349415-dewalt-construction-jack-protective-pads#profileId-2569325
Thanks!
Had to see how my wife's car would fit in there, but I didn't want to block everything. The rectangle is the bounding box for the car, but to get the glass to render transparently, I had to switch modeling software over to blender. Here's the newest model.
tl;dr: I want to install a tonal in a non-standard way, and am looking for people who've done it or who otherwise might have some insight.
Hey folks,
Had a tonal installer out today, only to find my studs aren't in the right spot for where I want this installed. (this isn't a "oh, it's a few inches off of where I want it", and more of a "those few inches make this wall installation impossible")
Apparently, tonal "requires" that if you do a build out, you have put 2x4 studs into the floor and ceiling. I'd rather not actually put holes in my hardwood floors, and I'm not even sure a joist is readily accessible in that location.
My thought is to bridge existing studs (outside the drywall) with 4 2x4 cross beams and a piece of 3/4 ply, then attach the tonal to that.
From a shear load perspective, I'd be pushing the load out between 1.5 and 3.5 inches (depending on the orientation of the 2x4s) from where it would otherwise be if installed into existing studs, but I'm thinking this would be perfectly secure. Cross beams would be attached to studs with lag bolts (or structural screws), and probably the same for the ply to the cross beams. The tonal would bolt directly into the 2x4 cross beams (they'd be spaced appropriately), and not just the ply.
Anyone have thoughts on whether this would work? Ideally, I'd like to avoid bolting into my floor and ceiling, and avoid ripping apart the drywall (though there is maybe the option of doing that, then installing some ADDITIONAL studs where they're needed, but I really don't want to patch a floor-to-ceiling hole in the wall...)
I was going to put up some cabinets, but couldn't quite visualize it in my head. The spacing, look, etc. So I learned to use autodesk fusion, modeled out all the cabinets/shelves/etc I wanted, then built a copy of my garage. The cabinets are done in painstaking detail, because why the hell not?
The white box in the corner is a chest freezer that is NOT done in any kind of detail. The standing shelves along the left wall are existing husky metal shelves I have.
I can try to find a way to share the components somewhere if someone else wants to be able to use the same thing.
ETA: I just realized i had all the shelves hidden in the renders; there are shelves along each wall above the cabinets; a pair of 4' x 8' on the back wall, then 3 2' x 4' shelves along and 3 on the right wall and one 2 x 4 above the freezer. They all run 2' shy of the ceiling.
Question 1 removed because it was related to the thing on the ground that I won't mention by name to avoid having this post mistakenly removed. Will move that to the megathread.
My cabinets (newage pro) are on their way as well, and I'll be installing those mostly solo over the coming weeks. I'd like to be able to easily clean underneath them (we've had issues with spiders and crickets), so was thinking about floating them rather than using the feet. It's a lot of cabinets though, and I just wanted to get folks' thoughts on whether wall-mounting them all is a bad idea. This is your standard residential house, with 2x4 wall studs (presumably; that's what the plans call for), with a garage with a bedroom over it. I'm guessing it'll be fine as long as I don't fill the cabinets with solid concrete, but wanted to confirm.
when installing, I'm assuming I'm going to need some cabinet jacks to be able to get them up high enough that I can actually mount them. Recommendations on which to get? Also, suggestions on how to best get the cabinets ON the jacks in the first place? Should I install the legs, slip the jacks under, install the cabinets, then remove the legs?
Overall, I wouldn't quite say I'm out of my depth, but haven't done this before, so want to make sure I get it right the first time.
One more thing: I'm not paying someone over $1000 for "white glove delivery". I don't care about having someone take away the packaging. That said, think I could bribe the delivery guy (who presumably has a pallet jack) to roll the pallets to the garage for me?
Thanks y'all! Excited to get this garage completed!