The TLDR version:

• If, like me, you're from an area where the trails are all hard-packed dirt, be aware that the trails on Salkantay are NOT like that. I spent months training for this trek and yet somehow failed to take substrate into consideration. I would describe the trails as "dust covered with small mobile rocks." So make sure your knees are able to handle that, because mine could not!
• Salkantay Trekking was great. TONS of great food, guides were great, lodges were clean and comfy. Would definitely use again if I ever attempted to do this again (which I will absolutely NOT). The groups we saw from Alpaca seemed to be a lot of 20-something marathon-runner type girls and buff shirtless dudes ... I don't know if that's typical, but I would have felt VERY out of place. Our group was a mix of ages from early 20s to mid 50s.
• Safety tip: If you're on a trail and horses or mules are passing you, STAY TO THE INSIDE OF THE MOUNTAIN. Do NOT stand on the cliff side. I was shocked how many folks didn't seem aware of this.

The very very long version:

I took this trip with a lifelong friend who'd previously done the trek at Havasupai. We're both 49-year-old woman from Michigan, somewhat overweight but active. I hadn't done a trekking trip before but can hike 10-12 miles at home with no problem. I spent several months training by hiking with a pack, doing as many hills as possible in my very flat area, lifting weights (esp lower body), doing multiple rounds of stairs at my seven-story office building (also while wearing a pack, which got lots of weird looks from colleagues), and using the incline treadmill and stairstepper at the gym.

Unfortunately, there is really no place in Michigan to simulate altitude. We arrived three days early to acclimate, and we were both taking Diamox. We drank coca tea, got lots of rest, guzzled water ... all the recommended stuff. I had been in Colorado at about 9000 feet the previous year and while it wasn't a hike, I'd had zero issues with the elevation, so I figured I'd be OK after a few days in Peru. HAHAHAHA.

Day 1

When we started the hike, I was horrified to realize that 1) it was immediately uphill, and not a friendly sort of uphill, and 2) breathing was SO VERY HARD. Our guide was really patient and encouraging, and taught us some different breathing techniques that helped. Sort of.

By the time we got to Soraypampa Sky Camp and had lunch, I realized that there was no way I was going to be able to hike up to Humantay Lake -- it was even steeper than the first part of the trek. A college-age guy in our group was struggling with the elevation as well, so we both rented horses to ride up to the lake. (My horse's nonstop farting added some levity.) Three other people ended up taking horses the last third of the way up.

One thing about taking the horses on this trek: You don't get reins. You don't have commands. You just hold on to the saddle while someone either leads or your horse does its own thing. The saddle isn't either English or Western style ... it has sort of a curve in the front that you hang on to. I've ridden lots of times, but never on a horse I had zero control over, so this was pretty scary until I got used to it.

The little curved part at the front of the saddle is what you hang on to

The lake was beautiful, but it was starting to get chilly, so after some photos and relaxing a bit, we hustled back down on foot and had dinner, then turned in.

This camp is extremely chilly at night, and there are no showers (or warm water for handwashing). I brought some baby wipes to clean up with, but they were both insufficient for the job and VERY VERY COLD. I had a super toasty down sleeping bag, but I hadn't used the liner before, so I was like a deranged caterpillar trying to wriggle into both of them and then turn around so the hood wasn't over my face. Also, the glass domes are lovely for viewing the night sky but not so great for changing in.

Day 2

The guy with altitude sickness was getting worse, so in the morning, he was sent back to Cusco to rest before meeting back up with us day three.

In our group, 11 out of 12 people opted to take horses up to the pass. In fact, the only person in our group who hiked the entire thing was a Russian dude who 1) at one point found a group of hikers who'd gone astray, took them back to their group, then literally RAN uphill to catch up to our own and 2) cracked open a beer and smoked a cigarette anytime there was a rest stop. (This is secondhand information, though, because I was usually eating everyone's dust.)

My horse was Patricia, and she was soo sweet and sure-footed and up for anything. I saw a couple of others who needed a lot of persuading to go up certain spots, but she didn't have any issues. At the pass, we stopped for a snack. A couple of us had to use the "Inca toilet," as our guides called them, and found a convenient rock. We packed out our TP but sadly, plenty of other folks hadn't. Ick.

The highlight at the pass was seeing a small avalanche on another mountain -- it was really cool when it "snowed" on us for a minute afterward.

Aaaaavaaaalaaaaaaaaaaaanche!!

I was feeling optimistic about the downhill portion after the pass ... so far, my pace and breathing had been really good if I wasn't going uphill. However, this was where substrate was my downfall, because I hadn't trained on anything like this (nor was it even an option in my area). If I had, it would have revealed a VERY important fact ... that my somewhat hypermobile joints are 1000% not suited to unstable terrain. My knees and ankles were SHAKING after a few miles. I was at the far back of the pack, and our guide was with me, encouraging me but also gasping every time I tripped (which was a lot). He eventually insisted on taking my backpack.

My downfall (sometimes literally)

At one point, I was sobbing and falling and trudging and falling, and I was covered in dust and tears and telling myself that if my grandpa could land on Omaha Beach, I could do this. But then I COULDN'T do it, because family history doesn't make your knees magically awesome ... so I cried harder. (One of the guys in our group later pointed out that those men trained for that day for months on end and also didn't have a much of a choice in the matter. And later it occurred to me that on D-Day, Grandpa was 23, not 49.)

I finally caught up with the group for lunch. After I fell while walking across flat ground, I confessed to our guides that I didn't think I could hike the rest of the way. They procured a horse for me for S/270 cash, which I no longer had. One of the girls in our group lent me S/100 after gasping, "That's highway robbery!"

So I rode the next six miles or so to the next camp with the trek's horseman leading the way, while I hung onto the saddle desperately and tried not to look over cliff edges. On the scarier parts (very steep, rocky downhills), I sang the Smurfs theme to distract myself. I also got a LOT of dirty looks for some reason; eventually I started joking to people that I was doing the walk of shame on horseback. Believe me, I would NOT have chosen this!

After approximately 80 million years, we got to the Collpapampa Mountain Sky View camp. It was amazing ... I had a private bathroom with a shower, and I was VERY happy at the prospect of a bathroom that was right there, rather than having to lace up my hiking boots and trudge across a freezing camp in the middle of the night to pee! My shower was lukewarm but other people reported theirs were hot. The domes were really nice, and they even had real beds! Only downside was that there were a LOT of stairs between me and the dinner area, but I made it work.

Day 3

My knees were SHOT. So after enjoying a glorious sunrise in the morning, I took the bus trip down, along with two of the younger guys from our group, and a girl from another group. We passed the hikers, so we saw the same sights they did. It was also a huge relief to be out of the constant dust, because my eyes and sinuses were super irritated from it. (I think I sneezed dust for about the next two weeks.)

Gorgeous sunrise at Collpapampa camp

We stopped at the coffee plantation for lunch (excellent again!) and to see a demonstration about how coffee is grown, roasted, and ground. Of course there were free samples, too. Like the Beastie Boys, I like my sugar with coffee and cream, and this coffee was STRONG, so not my cup of ... tea? But I got a bag of beans as a gift for my fiancé, who loved it.

After the plantation, we took the bus down to Hidroelectrica and then boarded a train to Aguas Calientes. I think about half of us opted for the train, which very comfortable! Once again, we passed the hikers, so we saw the same views. Once we got the city, we walked to our hotel (Mamasara, which was nice if unremarkable), and I then enjoyed the best shower of my life, followed by dinner with the group. The city wasn't as interesting as Cusco, but it was bustling, and we were able to snag some things we needed from local shops.

We saw a LOT of stray dogs in AC. They seemed well-fed and healthy, for the most part, but it still made me sad. I saw one puppy steal an empty toilet paper tube from a public bathroom and play with it in the street ... he had me googling "how to bring dog to US from Peru." (FYI, the answer is "with more time and money than I currently have.")

The cutest little stray pupper

Day 4

Machu Picchu day! Our reservations were bright and early, so we checked out first thing and gathered to head up. Everyone but badass Russian dude took the bus. (He somehow got there only about five minutes after we did.)

We had tickets for circuit two and got to see sunrise over the mountains. It was BREATHTAKING. And of course Machu Picchu was stunning. However, this circuit was crowded, and my knees were screaming at me on the stairs. The biggest frustration for me was people who stood on the stairs taking photos (come on, people!), and the ones hogged the spots for the best photos for 10 minutes, taking selfies or posing for pics.

This view was 100 percent worth it

The crazy thing is that even as huge as Machu Picchu seems, I didn't realize until the next day (when I saw a scale model at a museum in Cusco) that there's even MORE of it, around the mountain, that isn't visible on the tour.

After a last meal together back in AC, we all boarded the bus to start heading back to Cusco. (Favorite moment: All of us rapping "Lose Yourself" together.) At one point, we were split up into separate buses to go back to our hotels, and rather unceremoniously said goodbye to the others by the side of the road while transferring our stuff from the company duffel into a big garbage bag.

Final thoughts

Even though this trip didn't go the way I planned, I'm still very happy I went. I had a blast, I saw some of the most beautiful landscapes I could imagine, and I met a ton of amazing people. The food in Peru was also phenomenal.

My only regrets are 1) that my knees are still jacked up over a month later and 2) that I spent a boatload of money on hiking gear I didn't end up using that much. But I'm sure I can use it for a future trip ... I'll just make sure I do a lot more research ahead of time into what sort of surfaces I'll be hiking on, and train accordingly.

Thought I'd share my packing list for my recent four-day trek, along with my notes about what I would bring again and what I wouldn't. (I'm going to post my thoughts on the trek and my company, Salkantay Trekking, in another post.) I spent months preparing for this and maintaining my spreadsheet, so I might as well put it to good use!

For reference: I did my trek in late June. I'm from Michigan, and my friend and I often seemed to be more comfortable in cooler weather than a lot of other people we saw. And I didn't end up hiking the entire trek, but some of my observations are based on what other people liked as well.

TLDR version:

• REALLY glad I brought: Electrolyte tablets, SPF 100 sunscreen, neck gaiter (though I should have worn it over my face more), and lots of ibuprofen.
• Would leave home: Extra snacks, sock liners, my own sleeping bag and inflatable pillow, Kindle, shower sandals, swimsuit (unless you know for sure you’re doing hot springs).
• Wish I'd brought: Tevas (for camp, plus shower if needed), small water bottle (way easier to use than water bladder when brushing teeth!), more cash, regular lip balm for nights.

Clothing

Item	What I used	Verdict / Notes
Trekking shirts (4)	REI Active Pursuits and Swiftland Running shirts (short- and long-sleeved)	The shirts were fine, if not the most flattering ones I own. I only wore long sleeves one day (Day 2).
Trekking pants (4)	3× North Face Aphrodite, 1x REI Sahara convertible	I wish I'd brought four of the Aphrodites, which I loved. The zipper across the mid-thigh in the Saharas was annoying, plus I never felt like I wished I was wearing shorts.
Base layers (top & bottom) x3	2x Smartwool, 1x Kari Traa	This was overkill; I only wore a base layer (pants only) on Day 2 and was desperate to get them off after we got over the pass. They were nice for PJs though; I'd probably take one pair if I did it again.
Sun hoodie (1)	Soothfeel Women's UPF 50+ Sun Protection Hoodie	This was a nice light layer if my fleece was too warm, and also let me skip sunscreen on my arms when I wore it.
Fleece jacket (1)	Helly Hansen Alphelia Zero Fleece Jacket	Nice weight for most days.
Down coat (1)	REI Magma 850	Only wore this the morning of Day 2 and at the pass but was glad I had it. Very lightweight and packable but warm.
Rain jacket (1)	Patagonia Torrentshell 3L	Love this jacket but didn't encounter any rain. Worked as a windbreaker when needed tho.
Underwear (4)	REI Co-op Active Hipster, ExOfficio Give-N-Go II	These were both good, but I LOVED the ExOfficio
Sports bras (2)

Head & Hands

Item	What I used (brand/style)	Verdict / Notes
Beanie	Minus33 Midweight Knit Cuff	Hat was fine; only needed it for morning of Day 2.
Sun hat	Columbia Bora Bora Booney II Hat	This was fine but a little big and floppy for my taste, but I'd probably bring a baseball-style hat next time. Some people in our group preferred a French Foreign Legion-style hat with a cape at the back.
Neck gaiters	Minus33 Merino Woolverino Multiclava, Buff Coolnet UV Multifunctional Neckwear	I only needed one of these. You WILL want to cover your face on the trail with one though, as it was super dusty, and many of us were sneezing blood and dust for days afterward.
Wool gloves	Smartwool	I didn't end up wearing these.
Waterproof gloves	North Face Sierra E-Tip Glove	I got these because I was worried about not having water-resistant gloves and these were the only pair my local Dick's had. They're nice, though I only needed them the morning of Day 2.

Footwear

Item	What I used (brand/style)	Verdict / Notes
Hiking boots	Salomon X Ultra 5 Mid GORE-TEX Hiking Boots	Really nice hiking boots; I was very happy with them. Also added Superfeet Hike insoles bc I have crazy high arches.
Shower sandals	Some Amazon cheapies.	Didn't need these, as the showers at the camp were fine. Wished I'd brought Tevas like everyone else, as these weren't secure enough to walk around in, and no one wants to put on hiking boots in the middle of the night to dash to the bathroom.
Hiking socks (4)	Darn Tough Lightweight Micro Crew	These were great – I live in these socks now.
Sock liners (2)	Injinji	I didn't end up needing or using these; would skip next time.

Sleep

Item	What I used (brand/style)	Verdict / Notes
Sleeping bag	Nemo Disco 15 (women's long)	Only needed this once. Loved the sleeping bag but not lugging it around after everyone turned theirs back over to the trekking company.
Sleeping bag liner	Nemo Tracer Endless Promise	Same as above.
Inflatable pillow	Nemo Fillo	Didn't use this; all the campsites had pillows.

Gear & Accessories

Item	What I used (brand/style)	Verdict / Notes
Daypack	Osprey Sirrus 24	LOVED this backpack. Super comfortable, lots of room. However, it was a PITA to use as my personal item on the plane and I was glad they didn't measure it, bc I'm pretty sure it was technically too tall to qualify (it doesn't squash up bc of the back panel).
Trekking poles	Black Diamond Alpine Carbon Cork	These were fantastic! Very happy with them. Saw a few folks do the trails without them but can't imagine HOW.
Water bladder	Gregory 3D Hydro Hydration Reservoir, 2L	I really like this reservoir; it has a fin so it dries out a bit more easily than some others. You could do 3L but I don't think most folks needed it, as we could fill up on water at breakfast and lunch.
Water purification tablets	Aquatabs	Didn't end up using these.
Headlamp	BioLite HeadLamp 500	Didn't need this a ton but I've been happy with it!
Power pack	Anker Zolo Power Bank	This worked great (integrated USB-C cable is nice) but is somewhat big and heavy
Travel adapter	Anker Nano Travel Adapter, Ceptics Type C adapter	I didn't need the Type C adapter at all (my friend did need it at her hotel in Cusco). The Anker Nano was great for plugging in devices with USB-C and USB-A cables but you could probably use just about any regular USB plugs in the campsites for those.
Carabiners	Assorted sizes	These are super handy for hanging various things from your pack (towels, etc.). Also used one to secure the closure on the backpack pocket where I kept my wallet and passport.
Trekking towel	REI Multi Towel Deluxe, L	Campsite on day 3 doesn't have towels, so this was good to have. Large was nice but you could probably go with the medium in a pinch.

Health & Toiletries

Item	What I used (brand/style)	Verdict / Notes
Meds in mini pill organizer	Diamox, Z-pack (recommended by my doc just in case), ibuprofen, Imodium	I didn't need the Z-Pack or the Imodium, but several others had gastro issues. I DID make heavy use of the ibuprofen. Btw, don't forget to take your Diamox in the evenings before you crash at camp!
Blister kit	Hart Blister Kit	Didn't need; the guides had this stuff (and I didn't have scissors for the moleskin in the kit!)
Electrolyte tablets	Venture Pal Chewable Electrolyte Tablets	These were probably the best item I had. I was handing them out like candy to other hikers, who all liked them too. They taste decent and you don't have to put them in your water bladder.
Sunscreen	Neutrogena SPF 100 + SPF 60 face stick	These worked great. Just remember to reapply.
Bug spray	Sawyer 20% Picaridin	We encountered very few mosquitoes; not sorry I brought it though. (And I think Picaridin smells WAY better than DEET.)
SPF lip balm	Banana Boat SPF 50	This was decent. I'd probably also bring a regular lipbalm for night bc we all had super chapped lips at the end of the day.
Hand sanitizer		Definitely want this, especially if you have to use the "inca toilets" or if campsites are out of soap.
Body/baby wipes		You WILL want these on Day 1 when there are no showers.
Toothbrush, toothpaste, floss		Duh. (Also, don't use sink water for brushing!)
Mini facewash + moisturizer		Was glad I had these because your face will feel gross after tons of sunscreen + dust. Plus the air is really dry.
Deodorant		Another duh.
Toilet paper + 1 roll dog poop bags for TP (or, I guess, poop)		Take out the tube to make TP more packable. And don't be like the gross folks who left their toilet paper behind at the pass. Ewww.

Personal & Misc

Item	What I used (brand/style)	Verdict / Notes
Passport, wallet		You have to have your passport for Machu Picchu and train tickets.
Cash (~S/300)		I would bring substantially more than this. The tips alone will probably wipe this out, let alone additional things like horse rides if you need them. (E.g., a horse over the pass is S/120.)
Sunglasses	Polarized, darkest possible tint	You'll definitely want these, esp if your eyes are at all sensitive to sun. It is BRIGHT.
Phone		For photos etc. You will have wifi and cell service in some areas if you want to contact loved ones.
Kindle e-reader	Kindle Colorsoft	I love reading but I was too tired most days to do much of it once we got to camp. I'd leave home.
Mini massager	Arboleaf Mini Massage Gun	This was nice to have and it's pretty lightweight but I don't think I'd bother bringing it again.
Sleep mask		Didn't end up needing; I'd leave home.
Ear plugs		I heard these were essential, but I didn't use them at all.
Mini hairbrush, hair ties		It's windy; I lived with my hair in a ponytail or bun and it still got snarled.
Swimsuit + cover		We didn't end up going to the hot springs, so this was wasted space
Snacks / pass fuel	Misc snacks from Cusco and candy from home	Didn't need; our meals were huge and they gave us snacks for the day. No one else brought snacks to share, but afterward, I did end up giving mine to the two hikers in our group who were from different countries, who enjoyed them.