Drop in almost any IR or RF code and the tool identifies the protocol, extracts the relevant data, and gives it back in whatever format you need. Choose the device type and brand, flip the on-screen DIP switches to match your remote, hit Build, and it generates the code.

No capture. No receiver. No Flipper. Nothing to buy.

The tricky part was getting each brand’s switch mapping right. DIP-switch order isn’t always left-to-right—some brands reverse bits, and some switches aren’t transmitted at all.

The tool currently covers 42+ sub-GHz protocol families across 62 brand entries, including the PT2262 / EV1527 / SMC5326 ecosystem used by a huge range of fans, outlets, and inexpensive gate remotes.

If your garage, gate, or ceiling-fan remote has those little switches inside, you already have everything needed to generate the code.

Signal repair

A capture you might have given up on a year ago can often be turned into a working signal in a few clicks. This is probably the feature I get the most questions about. Ever learned a code from an original remote only for the result to barely work—or work once, only from a few inches away, or work for one button but not another? Usually, that's not you or your blaster.

Learned captures can be messy. Receivers round timings, ambient light and nearby RF equipment can introduce noise, inexpensive hardware can clip the beginning of a burst, and some captures can even come back with marks and spaces inverted.

Paste the capture into the tool and it identifies the protocol, shows the address and command, and gives you a confidence level.

Hit FIX SIGNAL and it can:

• Correct the AGC burst
• Snap noisy pulses to the nearest valid timing unit
• Remove trailing repeat gaps and other artifacts
• Add missing closing spaces
• Correct inverted mark/space data
• Show you exactly what was changed instead of silently rewriting the capture

And once the protocol is identified, Rebuild Clean can throw the noisy capture away completely and regenerate the signal from scratch using the protocol's expected timing.

In other words: instead of patching a bad capture, you get a clean signal generated from the underlying data.

There's a second tool alongside it that moves a whole remote between formats, or onto a different remote's layout — pull in a Harmony XML or a JP1 file and drop it out as a Flipper .ir or an ESPHome YAML, button assignments intact.

Move Remotes Signal: .irc - .ir - Flipper Zero .sub - Flipper RF - Pronto Hex - LIRC - conf - Global Caché - GIRR - XML - Harmony - Arduino - .ino - IRDB - CSV - JP1 .rmdu - SmartIR - Tuya - IR - ESPHome - Sonoff - RfRaw + more

Links

• Signal Editor — https://readyware.net/signal-editor.html#rf
• Signal Transporter — https://readyware.net/signal-transporter.html
• All Formats — https://readyware.com/faq.html#faq-all-formats

Need help: I can't prove 5 sub-GHz remotes with only one copy of each. Does anyone own one of these?

I can't tell whether those low bits are part of the command or part of the address and the only way to know is a second unit with a different address.

The five remotes I need:

• Harbor Breeze A25-TX015 8-button fan/heater handset, 433.92 MHz, Gate TX 24-bit, bits 2..7
• Retekess TD157 - 7-button pager, 433.92 MHz, Princeton 24-bit, bits 4..9
• Retekess TD163 - 5-button pager, 433.92 MHz, SMC5326 25-bit, bits 5..8
• EfaFlex door shutters - 6-button, 433.92 MHz, Ansonic 12-bit, bits 2..4
• Capstone WRCO-RM outlets - 3-button, 315 MHz, Princeton 24-bit, bits 1..3

If you've got any of them, a raw .sub of two or three buttons is all I need. Doesn't matter which buttons. And it doesn't have to be a Flipper. Anything that gives raw timings works: a BroadLink RM Pro / RM4 Pro learned code (base64 straight out of the app is fine), an RTL-SDR dump, a Sonoff RF Bridge running Portisch, an ESP with a 433 receiver.

I'd rather ask than guess. Absorbing those low bits into the command would work perfectly for my unit and could be silently wrong for everyone else's. The Remote would look fine and just not do anything, which is the worst kind of broken.

Happy to post back what the bits turn out to be either way, enjoy the tools.

No sign-up, no install, no download, no account - it just runs in your browser and it's free. Drop in almost any IR or RF code and it figures out the protocol and hands it back in whatever format you need. In the last few weeks added the piece I'm most pleased with, so here's where it's at.

The new bit — the RF wizard. You pick the device type, pick the brand, and it draws the DIP switch bank the way it actually sits inside your remote. You flip the switches on screen to match the ones in your hand, hit build, and you get a working code out. No capture. No receiver. No Flipper. Nothing to buy.

That's the part that took the longest to get right, because the switch order is a trap — Chamberlain, for instance, numbers switch 1 as the most significant bit and reverses the last three positions, and one of their banks has a switch that isn't transmitted at all. Copy the switches left-to-right like they look and you get a wrong code on nearly every remote. Each brand's mapping had to be handled on its own.

If your ceiling fan or gate remote has a row of little switches in the battery compartment, that's the whole secret. You're already holding all the information the code needs.

The part I get the most mail about, though, is signal repair. If you've ever learned a code off an original remote and had it come back dead — works once, works from three inches away, works for the mute button but not power — that's usually not you and not your blaster. Learned captures come out jittery. The receiver rounds timings, ambient light and 2.4 GHz gear inject noise, cheap hardware clips the leading burst, and some captures come out with marks and spaces inverted.

So: paste the capture in, and it identifies the protocol, shows you the address and command, and tells you its confidence. Hit FIX SIGNAL and it corrects the AGC burst, snaps noisy pulses back to the nearest real time unit, strips trailing repeat gaps and junk artifacts, adds a missing closing space, and tells you every single thing it changed instead of silently rewriting your file. If it's inverted there's a one-click mark/space swap. And once it knows the protocol, Rebuild Clean throws your jittery capture away entirely and regenerates the code from scratch at textbook timing — a perfect signal instead of a patched one.

If you'd rather do it by hand, the pulse list is fully editable — the live waveform updates as you type, and you can select, copy and paste timings like a spreadsheet. Then save it out in whatever format your setup actually wants. A capture you'd given up on twelve months ago is usually about four clicks from working.

Coverage is 42 sub-GHz protocol families across 62 brand entries — the PT2262 / EV1527 / SMC5326 world most fans, outlets and cheap gate remotes live in, plus CAME, Nice, Hörmann, Chamberlain/LiftMaster, Linear MegaCode, Marantec, Telcoma and a stack of others.

NEC / NEC1 / NEC2 / NECx (the most-used IR protocol on earth) · Sony SIRC 12 / 15 / 20-bit · RC5 / RC5x · RC6-6-20 (Sky, Foxtel, cable & satellite) · Panasonic / Kaseikyo (incl. Combo & MIX — also used by Denon, Sharp, JVC, Teac) · JVC · GI Cable · XMP (Comcast / Xfinity, AT&T, Pace, Arris cable boxes) · Nokia32 (AT&T U-verse, Foxtel IQ) · Denon · Sharp · RCA · Samsung

On the IR side there's a wizard that programs a whole remote at once — device type, brand, code set — rather than one button at a time. It's sitting on 1,000,000+ codes across 12,000+ brands.

And the conversion side, which is the older half of the project. Paste a raw capture or a code in almost any format and it identifies the protocol, shows you the address and command, and rebuilds it clean. Then export it as something else: 19+ in, 21 out. Flipper .sub and a good chunk of those RF protocols landed in the last couple of weeks.

.irc · Flipper Zero .ir · Flipper Sub-GHz .sub · Pronto Hex · LIRC raw · LIRC config · LIRC mode2 · BroadLink Base64 · BroadLink Hex · Global Caché iTach · Global Caché JSON · Home Assistant YAML · ESPHome · Sonoff RfRaw B0 · Tasmota · Arduino C array · Arduino rc-switch · Tuya · SmartIR · IRDB · JP1 .rmdu · GIRR XML · Harmony XML · TV-B-Gone · raw µs CSV · WAV

There's a second tool alongside it that moves a whole remote between formats, or onto a different remote's layout — pull in a Harmony XML or a JP1 file and drop it out as a Flipper .ir or an ESPHome YAML, button assignments intact. That one reads 17 formats and writes 13.

Move Remotes Signal: .irc - .ir - Flipper Zero .sub - Flipper RF - Pronto Hex - LIRC - conf - Global Caché - GIRR - XML - Harmony - Arduino - .ino - IRDB - CSV - JP1 .rmdu - SmartIR - Tuya - IR - ESPHome - Sonoff - RfRaw + more

Links

• Signal Editor — https://readyware.net/signal-editor.html
• Signal Transporter — https://readyware.net/signal-transporter.html
• All Formats — https://readyware.com/faq.html#faq-all-formats

Get a code in from a capture or almost any file format, find out what it actually is, fix it if it's broken, build one from scratch if you don't have one, move a whole remote's buttons somewhere else — and save the result as a file you own, in whatever format your gear speaks, with no account, no cloud and nothing held hostage.

Happy to take requests. If there's a format you need that isn't in that list, or a remote the wizard doesn't know, tell me what you've got and I'll look at adding it.

App Name: READYWARE - Universal Remote Control

What it does: Build the remote you actually want on a canvas you fully control, then float it on top of whatever app is already running. It's hardware agnostic - BroadLink and other WiFi blasters, USB-C IR dongles, your phone's built-in blaster, or no blaster at all for Hue, Home Assistant, Shelly and anything with a REST API.

Old-school overlay. The secret sauce. I wanted to share a design technique I've been playing with.

Key Features:

1. Photo to remote - photograph the remote you already own and map the buttons onto the picture, with everything outside the outline transparent. No new layout to learn, because it is the remote off your coffee table.

2. App on app - the remote floats over whatever is running. Netflix keeps playing underneath, taps outside the buttons pass through, taps on the buttons fire IR. Plus a wake button, overlay timeout, cloaked buttons, and live video or camera feeds playing behind your controls.

3. Your codes are yours forever - everything saves as .irc, an open hardware-agnostic format, so changing blasters never costs you your layouts. Free browser tools convert Pronto, Flipper, LIRC, Global Cache, BroadLink, ESPHome, Harmony XML and more, and Smart IR auto-programs buttons from a 700,000+ code database if you don't have the original remote.

Also in there: a three-level canvas (wallpaper, canvas, buttons) with per-button transparency and sizing, folders inside folders, multi-step macros that mix IR, RF and smart home in one press, speed buttons so one set of controls drives every device, live device state so buttons show what's actually on, a Web Remote that turns any browser into your remote from anywhere, and network control for Roku, Kodi, Denon, Yamaha, Samsung and LG with no blaster at all. Everything stays local on your device.

On the TV: it installs on Android TV and runs on the big screen itself, not just as a phone remote. Full d-pad navigation, a Home Screen with your own tiles and artwork, live video wallpaper behind your controls, and layouts that scale from a phone to an 85 inch panel without redrawing anything. Push a layout or new art over the air and every screen in the house updates.

Pricing: buy it once and it works on all your Android devices, and upgrades are free for the lifetime of the app. No subscription, no account, nothing to renew - which is the same reason the .irc format matters. You buy it, you keep it, and your codes come with you.

Goal: Promo

Link: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.readyware.app

Happy to answer anything - setup, hardware, or how the overlay is actually put together

Got tired of fighting to get IR and 433MHz codes into my setup - capturing the raw timing, converting it to whatever my blaster wanted, and hoping it actually fired. So I built a little browser tool to take the pain out of it and figured I'd share it here.

No sign-up, no install, no download, no account - it just runs in your browser and it's free. Drop in almost any IR or RF code and it figures out the protocol and hands it back in whatever format you need - BroadLink, ESPHome, Flipper .ir/.sub, Pronto, LIRC, Global Caché, Arduino rc-switch, and plenty more. The RF side does 11 of the common 433/315/868 protocols. Rolling codes it just flags as rolling - it won't pretend to clone something that can't be.

There's a live waveform and a "rebuild clean" button that tidies up a messy learned capture so a stubborn device finally listens.

It's my own project, free forever: readyware.net/signal-editor.html

If it's missing a format you use, drop it in a comment and I'll add it.

I kept needing to move IR codes between my Flipper and other stuff (Pronto, BroadLink, Home Assistant) and clean up messy captures, so I built a little browser tool for it. Sharing in case it saves someone the hassle.

The Flipper-relevant bits: reads and writes Flipper .ir (raw and parsed); paste a raw capture and it names the protocol + device/command (NEC, Sony, RC5/6, Panasonic, JVC, Samsung, RCA, Denon...) and can rebuild it at clean timing, which is handy when a learned code is marginal; and it converts between .ir, Pronto hex, BroadLink, LIRC, Global Cache, Home Assistant, raw microseconds and more.

Runs in the browser, no install, no signup, free. I made it, so if anything decodes wrong I'd genuinely like to know.

readyware.net/signal-editor.html

Wanted to share a dashboard technique I've been playing with that almost nobody seems to know about — and it makes for some genuinely stunning control panels. It's not a native Google Home feature (it runs through a dashboard app), but the idea's worth borrowing no matter what you run. The trick: layer a transparent PNG control panel over a live video or feed — a security camera, weather radar, a stream, anything. Where the PNG is see-through, the feed plays through the gaps. Where it's solid, you see the design. Buttons sit on the artwork, and taps pass through the empty zones to whatever's underneath.

The screenshot below is a sci-fi control panel I built with a live stream playing through the gaps. The blue framework is the PNG. The video underneath is what shows in the open areas. The program listings at the bottom are a third layer below the PNG. Three layers, one frame, all interactive.

If you've tried anything like this, you know it's harder than it sounds — the layering, the touch pass-through, clean alpha edges, getting the stacking order right. There's a stack of small details that all have to line up. But when it works, it's a completely different category of dashboard. Not a button grid. Not a card layout. A designed surface.

Use cases I've built:

• Living room dashboard with the weather radar playing through behind the AV controls
• Kitchen panel with the front-door camera behind the lock controls
• Sci-fi media center with a streaming feed under the transparent panel

The part that makes it click: both layers are tappable and swappable. Your live video source sits in the background and the controls float on top of it — and you can change either one with a single tap. Tap your AV switcher and the background wallpaper swaps to that live feed while the buttons keep floating over it. So the overlay changes the controls, the source changes what's playing behind them, and a user can switch both easily without ever leaving the surface. One continuous overlay, one-button control.

Old-school overlay. The secret sauce. I wanted to share a design technique I've been playing with.

Nobody knows about this approach unless they go looking for it. Hoping a few people here pick it up and run with it — would love to see what others come up with.

I wanted a few wall-mounted tablets running home-automation dashboards, but every "on-wall" tablet mount I found was **$180 and up**. So I built my own. The mounting hardware comes out to **about $5 per tablet**, the tablet snaps right onto the wall and charges while it's there, and it pulls off cleanly whenever I want to use it in my hand.

It's dead simple: a recessed channel magnet on the wall, two steel plates stuck to the back of the tablet, and a short right-angle USB-C cable for charging off a USB light switch. That's it. They look clean and they just plain work.

## Parts list

1. Tablet — ~$32 (Walmart) onn. 8" Tablet, 2024 model, 32GB, Android 15. I got clean refurbs for $32 each and they're surprisingly fast. https://www.walmart.com/ip/onn-8-Tablet-32GB-2024-Model-Indigo/5168235223

2. Wall magnet — ~$17 for a 6-pack (~$3 each) Neodymium channel magnet, **65 lb pull**, 3.25 x 1/2 x 1/4" rectangular pot magnet. Part # MCLN-325TH

I tested 80 lb, 65 lb, 45 lb, and 25 lb pull versions. **The 65 lb is the sweet spot** — not too hard to pull off, and not a violent snap when you put it back. The 80/95 were too aggressive; the 25 was too weak. https://www.magnet4sale.com/65-lb-pull-3-25x1-2x1-4-threaded-hole-neodymium-channel-magnet-rectangular-pot-magnet/

3. Steel plates for the back of the tablet — ~$9 for a 16-pack

SALEX replacement metal plates, 16-pack. Big enough, and I trusted the 3M tape they ship with. I use **2 per tablet**. The 3M is holding fine so far. (I keep liquid nails on standby as a permanent backup in case the tape ever lets go — that would deface the tablet forever, so it's a last resort.)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09B6XGTWL/

4. Light switch with USB ports — ~$26

These are real rocker switches — they don't look like it, but they're not those mushy push-button ones. Behind it I dropped in a **Shelly dimmer**, replacing my old X10 dimmer, and it works great with LEDs. - https://www.ebay.com/itm/227229404549

- Legrand / Pass & Seymour TM83USBWCCV4 Decorator: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Legrand-Pass-Seymour-TM83USBWCCV4-DECORATOR-VISION

I didn't do inductive charging on this build. - **Alternative USB switches:**

- https://www.auselectronicsdirect.com.au/vertical-single-gang-wall-plate-switch-with-2.1a-u

- Tuya smart Wi-Fi touch switch with USB + USB-C: https://www.expert4house.com/en/smart-home/wi-fi-switches/tuya-smart-wifi-white-touch-switch-with-usb-and-type-c-port

5. Short USB-A to USB-C cable

aceyoon 2-pack coiled USB-C cable, 90-degree (right-angle) USB-A to USB-C. The right-angle end keeps it tidy against the wall. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=aceyoon+90+degree+coiled+usb-c

So what does it actually cost? The honest breakdown, because I know someone will ask:

- The **mount itself** — what replaces the $180+ commercial on-wall mount — is just **1 channel magnet (~$3) + 2 steel plates (~$1)**, so roughly **$4–5 per tablet**. That's the headline number.

- The tablet (~$32), the USB light switch (~$26), and the cable are things you'd need anyway for any wall-mounted, always-charging tablet setup. They're not part of the "mount" cost.

So: ~$5 for the actual mounting hardware, vs. $180+ for the off-the-shelf equivalent.

Notes / lessons learned

Magnet strength matters more than anything.** 65 lb pull was the Goldilocks zone for an 8" tablet. Heavier tablets may want a bit more. Two plates per tablet - spreads the hold and keeps it from pivoting. - The 3M tape has held fine, but if you're nervous, plan a permanent adhesive backup.

inductive charging - Done right, the cable disappears entirely and the whole thing feels like magic. That's the supernova version.

https://preview.redd.it/v2pgh50wd89h1.png?width=700&format=png&auto=webp&s=f37aea6e994647e048bf25da914a7878e108473c

inductive charging - Done right, the cable disappears entirely and the whole thing feels like magic. That's the supernova version. Happy to answer questions. Hope this saves someone $175.

Built a tool that I think folks here will find useful. It reads IR/RF backup files and converts them to 8 other formats+— so you can migrate your codes to whatever hardware you're moving to, without relearning a single button.

→ https://readyware.net/signal-transporter.html

How it works: drop a source file on the left, drop a target file (Flipper .ir, LIRC conf, Pronto Hex, BroadLink, Global Caché, GIRR XML, .irc, CSV, or JSON) on the right, click-pair the buttons (or hit auto-match), and download. Runs entirely in the browser — no install, no account.

Features:

• Reads IR/RF backup files and code databases, including Harmony XML and other supported formats.

• Harmony XML support is read-only by design. Logitech ended the platform in 2021, so this is mainly a way to preserve and migrate your codes into formats that still have a future.

• Auto-match by name handles most buttons (Power = On/Off = Standby, Vol+ = Volume Up, etc.), with manual click-pairing for anything unusual.

• Convert between Flipper Zero .ir, LIRC, Pronto Hex, Global Caché iTach sendir, GIRR XML, BroadLink, .irc, CSV, and JSON.

• Codes transfer exactly. Macros and events are preserved where the destination format supports them.

Disclosure: I'm the developer. Built this because I had years of IR/RF codes spread across different devices and wanted a simple way to move them around. The tool is free forever and runs entirely client-side — your files never leave your browser.

Feedback welcome, especially on:

• Edge cases and files that don't parse cleanly.
• Auto-match synonyms — the dictionary can always grow.
• Requests for additional output formats.

How many times have you torn the house apart for the original remote just to reprogram one button? Now multiply that by the Harmony shutdown, where a whole community lost their setups when the cloud went dark. Gamers don't accept that — they dump a game once and it's preserved forever. Our remotes deserve the same.

That's the idea I built around. The web tools are free and need no account:

Signal Transporter moves your codes from an old remote file onto a new layout — click-pair or auto-match, no re-learning. Built specifically for people migrating off Harmony.

A signal editor/converter that eats 11 formats (Flipper Zero, LIRC, Pronto, BroadLink, etc.) and an online remote builder.

The largest remote database online — 700,000+ codes, 7,800+ brands — for when the original remote is long gone.

Everything saves as a small .irc file you actually own — back it up, share it, trade it. No cloud, no lock-in. Works with a cheap $7 USB-C blaster, your phone's IR, or a BroadLink.

There's a paid companion app too (one-time, no ads, no subscription), but the preservation tools above are free — start there.

Heads up that I made this, so I'd love honest feedback more than anything: what would you want before you trusted it with your whole remote setup?

Heads up that I made this, so I'd love honest feedback more than anything: where does the .irc standard fall short for your setup, and what would make the HA side actually useful to you?

Like a lot of people here, I got hit when Logitech killed Harmony. The official BroadLink, Sofabaton, Tiqiaa USB-C, ElkSmart/Smart Blaster, and SmartThings apps all do the basics, but I wanted something fully customizable that worked across every blaster I own. So I built READYWARE.

Two free things you can use right now without installing anything:

🔧 Free online IR/RF signal converter & editor

- Paste any format — Pronto Hex, LIRC, Flipper Zero .ir, BroadLink Base64, Arduino, Global Caché, GIRR, raw µs, Harmony XML — auto-detected and converted to all 17 output formats at once.

- Live waveform editor: click any µs value to edit, normalize, fix-signal, AGC zone display, spectrum view.

- Bulk file import — drop a Flipper directory, Harmony export, IRDB, or LIRC remote, all buttons auto-listed.

- Bluetooth → IR bridge: map Apple TV / Google TV / Fire TV remote HID keys to IR signals.

- Home Assistant YAML auto-export, MQTT publish/subscribe, webhooks.

- 700,000+ codes searchable. No account. Works in any browser.

📱 Live demo of the universal remote app (no install)

(Click into Living Room → IPTV to see the live-wallpaper feature.)

The full app for Android/iOS adds:

- BroadLink RM, Tiqiaa USB-C IR, ElkSmart / Smart Blaster, Ocrustar, phone built-in IR, Wi-Fi transmitters — one app, every blaster.

- Fully customizable canvas. Drag, drop, resize, rotate, recolor every button. Custom icons, custom wallpapers, custom shapes. Make a remote that looks like your actual A/V rack — not a generic grid of buttons.

- Live wallpaper behind buttons. Security cam, weather radar, YouTube, HLS/RTSP streams play under your buttons while you control the TV. I haven't seen any other remote app do this.

- System overlay. Buttons float over Netflix, YouTube, any streaming app. Hit pause without leaving the show.

- Open .irc file format. Backup, share, edit in a text editor. Your remotes aren't trapped in someone's cloud.

- Cross-device renderer — same profile on phone, tablet, or 4K TV.

- One-time purchase. No subscription. Free updates for life. Use it on every device you own.

Sites: https://readyware.net · https://readyware.com

Full disclosure: I'm the developer. The signal editor is free forever no matter what — built it because I needed it and figured others would too. The phone app is paid. Genuinely interested in feedback on hardware support gaps. What do you use that I should make sure works? TY.