u/MidnightEnough3415

It was raining until this morning, so I hesitated about whether to take it out, but my curiosity got the better of me and I brought it along.

Since the lens is so small, there was no burden in putting it in my bag even with the adapter attached.

The first photo was taken wide open, and from the second photo onward, the aperture was set to F8... although I can't be completely sure, haha.

Because it lacks aperture click-stops, whenever I take it out of or put it back into the bag, the frontmost ring tends to shift and rotate. Even though I check it every time, it's probably an approximate value rather than the exact setting.

The last photo shows flare; it wasn't visible under the weak fluorescent lights of a house, but it definitely shows up clearly under streetlights. I also took a video, so it's a shame that I can't upload it together with the photos.

Since the lens rotates along with the focus ring, the flare rotates as well. At certain aperture values, the flare weakens slightly, but it doesn't disappear completely.

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Since it's for my own use, I made it in Korean, and creating the program took less than 5 minutes. I made the request somewhat abstractly, but I'm highly satisfied with the result. The data conversion speed is extremely fast.

Up until now, it was only possible through a rather tedious method, but now I can modify it with ease. I want to tweak it a bit more to include more information, but I've run out of tokens. I think it will take some time. You guys should try making one too.

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I'm debating a bit during the final lens assembly phase after the full cleaning, because I'd like to shorten the minimum focusing distance more than the stock spec. The INDUSTAR-50-2 50mm F3.5 lens roughly consists of a front lens group and a rear lens group. It’s a 3-element, 4-group lens, and the 2 elements in the front are structurally very easy to separate—they just come right off when unscrewed, revealing the aperture blades underneath.

I guess this is possible because removing the front lens group leaves only a convex lens that allows for an extremely close approach. Adjusting the aperture keeps the depth of field and peripheral image quality reasonably good too...

Though I doubt anyone would buy it for this specific purpose, haha. Just writing it down because it's pretty fascinating.

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As you can see in the photo, the components are very simple.

The focus ring moves with a decent amount of resistance felt in the hand, but there is an excessive amount of lubricating grease. Because the structure is so simple, dust gets inside easily, making it quite dirty.

I liked that there were no signs of previous disassembly at first, but upon taking it apart, I noticed a T-shaped mark. I wonder who did it. I use tough plastic wrap over the tips of my tools to avoid leaving any marks myself, so they must be someone similar.

Still, it’s cleaner than I expected, so I'm happy with it.

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The lens I purchased on eBay has arrived; it is the second Soviet lens I have bought.

I purchased it after seeing an introduction on YouTube, and the lens is certainly small—though it is unavoidable that it gets bigger once the Sony mount conversion adapter is attached.

I was curious about the flare in backlight, but since rain is forecast until tomorrow, I don't think I'll be able to see the sun.

So, I am thinking of doing a full disassembly, cleaning, and reassembly. I should have some fun this weekend.

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The original plan was to shoot a timelapse of the movement of the clouds and the reflection of the architecture on the lake, but when I arrived, clouds covered the entire sky, so I took a single shot.

The wind was also strong, so the lake was rippling.

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Extending the lens to shoot due to a long minimum focusing distance

바다~

This is an early Minolta telephoto lens. The center sharpness is quite good, and there is a very slight hint of chromatic aberration. I don't really like telephoto lenses, so I don't use them often, but I took it out today to take photos of a very wary cat.

I tried to attach the RAW file, but kept getting an error. So I am uploading it compressed to fit the 20-megabyte limit.

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고양이

Since it's an old lens, it is quite heavy to begin with.

The coating is weak, so it is very prone to flare and reflections.

What I consider to be the biggest downside is the focus throw, which rotates about 270 degrees. Haha, you can't turn it from end to end in one go.

Perhaps because of this, the price is affordable, but it's a feature that really makes you hesitate. Anyone planning to buy it should look into it thoroughly.

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I used Channel Mixer in After Effects, but due to the limitations of color temperature adjustment, it doesn't correct the image the way it looks in the photo.

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야간 조명에선 어떻게 보일지 궁금해서 나갔는데 고양이를 만났어요~

I've completed the Sony E mount conversion!

The minimum focusing distance changed from 85cm to 59cm when the focusing helicoid is fully extended. I saw a post online saying it could go down to 40cm, but that turned out to be impossible.

I finished the conversion ring with a heat-treated black coloring agent, but since the surface isn't perfectly smooth, the seams are a bit visible. I’ll have to take it out for a spin around the neighborhood tonight to take some photos.

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식빵굽기 자세.

IR590 PANORAMA~~~~~~~~

The internal structure is so simple that I could create a very clean mount conversion if I just had access to a precision milling machine.

These are unedited, resized test shots. My next task is to adjust the minimum focusing distance to around 40cm and complete the exterior finishing.

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