u/Minamoto_Japanese

Image 1 — [NMD] Wurkkos TS28 SFT-70 High CRI 5700K
Image 2 — [NMD] Wurkkos TS28 SFT-70 High CRI 5700K
Image 3 — [NMD] Wurkkos TS28 SFT-70 High CRI 5700K
Image 4 — [NMD] Wurkkos TS28 SFT-70 High CRI 5700K

[NMD] Wurkkos TS28 SFT-70 High CRI 5700K

Hi everyone. Since I prefer cooler tints, I had to try the new SFT-70 High CRI 5700K.

What stood out to me immediately was the very clean cool white tint. It keeps that crisp cool-white look without appearing excessively green, while still maintaining nice CRI.

DUV stays close to neutral across different output levels and does not seem to shift dramatically.

Overall, I like this emitter quite a lot. It offers a nice combination of a clean cool-white tint, nice CRI, and solid throw.

Note: English is not my first language, so I used a translation tool.

u/Minamoto_Japanese — 9 hours ago

Is it true that recent FFL351A 5000K batches are shifting toward positive DUV?

Hello everyone,

I’m currently deciding between FFL351A 5000K and NTG35 5000K as a swap emitter.

In general, I prefer neutral whites roughly in the 4700K–5700K range.

My DUV preference at 5000K, from most preferred to least preferred, is:

  1. Neutral to slightly negative (around -0.0060 to +0.0010)
  2. Fairly negative (around -0.0120 to -0.0060)
  3. Slightly positive (around +0.0010 to +0.0030)

I would prefer to avoid anything with DUV higher than +0.0030.

The FFL351A 5000K I got in October 2024 (in an X4) measured around DUV -0.0030, which was almost exactly my ideal tint.

However, I’ve recently seen some discussions suggesting that newer batches of FFL351A 5000K might be shifting toward positive DUV.

If you’ve recently purchased an FFL351A 5000K (either in a light or as a bare emitter), I’d appreciate it if you could share:

  • Measured DUV (if available)
  • Your subjective impression (rosy / neutral / slightly greenish)

I’m mainly interested in impressions from lights with a reflector or TIR optic installed, rather than mule.

From what I understand, NTG35 5000K tends to be fairly negative DUV, which makes it seem like the safer option in terms of tint consistency.

Since I want to avoid noticeably positive DUV while staying in the neutral-white range, I’m considering going with NTG35—but I would still prefer FFL351A if it reliably remains on the negative side of the BBL.

Thanks in advance.

Note: English is not my first language, so I used a translation tool.

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u/Minamoto_Japanese — 14 days ago

Hi, I’m a beginner trying to mod a Skilhunt EC150 and replace the emitters.

I’m confused about the polarity of the three LEDs on the MCPCB.

I found this image online (this is not my own EC150).

I made Image 1 based on my understanding.

I also asked Gemini, and it suggested a different polarity (shown in Image 2) and insists that it is correct, which made me confused.

Could someone please tell me which one is correct?

I don’t fully understand the circuit, so a simple explanation would be appreciated.

Thank you in advance.

Note: English is not my first language, so I used a translation tool.

u/Minamoto_Japanese — 16 days ago

Hi everyone,

I'm planning to swap the emitters on my Skilhunt EC200S-RED, and I'm looking for ideas.

My original plan was:

  • Channel 1: 2 × SFT-25R High CRI 5700K
  • Channel 2: 1 × FFL351A 2700K

However, the SFT-25R High CRI 5700K has been out of stock for a while (KaiDomain), so I'm considering other options.

One alternative I'm thinking about is:

  • Channel 1: 2 × FFL351A 5000K
  • Channel 2: 1 × FFL351A 2700K

So I'm curious:

If you were to build your own “perfect EC200S”, what emitters would you choose for Channel 1 and Channel 2? (Preferably limited to emitters available from KaiDomain, Convoy, FireflyLite, or Hank/INTL Outdoor.)

I'd like to hear your ideas.

reddit.com
u/Minamoto_Japanese — 22 days ago

Hi everyone,

I picked up a few slim 18650 lights that are frequently recommended in this sub and compared their outdoor beamshots.

For context, I own close to 10 Fireflies 21700 lights, so I’m quite used to that size class. I really like 21700 lights in general, but for EDC, I personally find them a bit too bulky and heavy for comfortable daily carry, so I tend to prefer slimmer 18650 options. For me, “slim” mainly refers to lights with a relatively small head diameter and comfortable in-pocket carry.

I’m still learning, but here’s the impression I got from actually using these:

  • The FC11C seems to be a commonly recommended budget-friendly option.
  • The Baton Ultra is often mentioned when people want something compact with onboard charging and a well-built feel.
  • The M200 V4 felt like a fairly balanced option with some usable reach.
  • The EC200(S) stood out for its wide, floody beam for close-range use.
  • The SC65c HI seems to be favored by people who prioritize compactness and durability over onboard charging.

Based on what I’ve read here as well, these kinds of lights are often appreciated for things like:

  • having very low output modes
  • generally efficient drivers
  • being reasonably durable, with IPX8-rated water resistance and basic drop resistance
  • offering some way to check battery level

I can see why all of these get recommended depending on the use case.

Note: English is not my first language, so I used a translation tool.

u/Minamoto_Japanese — 25 days ago