^(CHEAP double-knock.)

• MODEL:

Sakura Writoll – model NS505W#43
0.5 mm (available in 0.3 and 0.5 mm)           

• MATERIALS:

Being a budget model, plastic abounds here. So you have a plastic body, rubber grip, metal (tin?) eraser cap and cone tip/lead sleeve; pocket clip is stainless-steel but with a plastic base. In the inside you get a full-brass clutch and stainless-steel springs, but the rest is plastic.

• ERASER:

A generic white latex rubber eraser, with just a metal collet. It’s the exact same one rOtring uses in the R600.

• MEASUREMENTS:

“Opened” or “closed”, the Witroll measures 140 mm from tip to cap, with the center of gravity found at 75 mm from the (extended) tip. The boy is a cylinder with 8.4 mm in diameter at the tip of the pocket clip that expands to 9.5 mm at the edge of the grip. The rubber grip is 10 mm wide, and extends for 26 mm. With so much plastic the Writoll is a lightweight, weighing just 10.24 g.

• FEATURES:

The neat thing about the Writoll is that it’s a “double knock” mechpen. What that means is that if you knock it hard, you will extend or retract the lead sleeve/cone tip, while a soft knock, when the sleeve is out, will only advance the lead. Each soft know pushes out about 0.5 mm of lead. Finished using it, press hard on the eraser cap and the sleeve retracts, making the pencil safe to carry around. What I like about SAKURA’s approach is that it’s not the lead sleeve that extends and retracts, but the whole clutch assembly + sleeve. And why is that good? No sleeve wobbling. Neato 😎!

• AESTHETICS:

I have the impression that SAKURA didn’t want anyone to think the Writoll was anything else but a budget pencil. Therefore, they used the shiniest chrome possible with huge lettering on the body, so it looks really cheap. Why??? And though there are other colors, all look cheap 🤦‍♂️. The 0.5 mm version is available in black, dark blue and red/burgundy, while the 0.3 mm can be found in green, light blue, white and gray.

• ERGONOMICS:

Even though it has an a-w-e-s-o-m-e mechanical feature, in terms of ergonomics the Writoll is quite poor. For my tastes, it has the worse combination of features possible: too slim, too light and with a rearward-weight balance. What makes things really bad is the short grip and the rubber used. Since it’s only 26 mm long, you have to precisely position your fingers, without much wiggle room. And because the rubber is a bit rough, and you can’t move your fingers much, the rubber produced a sore spot on my middle finger. And to add more issues, it’s a bit noisy; not OHTO-noisy but not silent. The sleeve, however, is rock solid, which is a solid plus on a retracting-sleeve mechpen.

• MY THOUGHTS:

I honestly didn’t have high hopes for the Writoll, and it did not disappoint. Nonetheless, it has THE best lead sleeve protection system I’ve ever witnessed – a breeze to use and reliable, with no downsides. However, the ergonomics are just too bad for my hand; maybe someone with smaller hands won’t have so many issues as I had. In the end, the most pocket-friendly writing pencil that I have, but with serious ergonomics issues.

And one last thing, about the name. Does Writoll come from “write all” 🤔? If so, allow me once again to crack up with Japanese translations to English 😋.

^(Apex ZOOM?)

• MODEL:

Tombow ZOOM C1 – model SH-ZC1-C44
0.5 mm (only available in 0.5 mm)    

• MATERIALS:

The C1 is a full-metal bodied mechpen. The body is aluminum, and the same goes for the “floating cap” on top. The pocket clip is diecast zamac, according to Tombow's page, but it did receive some sort of coating. Inside you get a delicate full-brass clutch, metal lead tube and cone tip, and a few plastic connecting parts. The spring is steel, located inside the clutch assembly.

• ERASER:

For the C1 Tombow used their regular white latex rubber eraser, that seems to be made of the same compound used in their MONO erasers. It’s not exactly big, and to access the eraser you have to unscrew the body from the grip section.

• MEASUREMENTS:

From tip to top the C1 measures 143 mm, with the center of gravity located at 78 mm from the tip. It has a uniform fusiform body, with a diameter of 11.4 mm right below the pocket clip. That lightly flares up to 11.6 mm at midships and then tappers down to 4.4 mm at the end of the grip. On my precision scale it weighed 21.28 g.

• FEATURES:

I’m not a fan of mechpens where the manufacturer overcomplicated something just to make the mechpen look cool. And that’s what Tombow did with the knocking system here. Instead of a regular push-the-cap-down-to-knock system, they made it so that it’s the pocket clip that knocks the clutch. However, not actually the pocket clip, but that cap that seems to float above the top of the pencil, that is connected to the pocket clip. But you know what? It’s totally cool AND works perfectly, so I really can’t complain. Even so, there was a price for all this coolness: where’s the eraser 🤔? Read on and I’ll explain in a little bit.

• AESTHETICS:

No doubt at all, the C1 is one of my best-looking mechpens. The floating top cap, combined with the smooth and beautiful body make it standout. I guess Tombow wanted it to look “sophisticated”, and by Tutatis, they really pulled it off. It’s sophisticated and elegant, and at the same time, totally discreet. I think that the only other mechpen that I have that pulls the same trick is the 707.

Tombow offers the C1 in Graphite Blue (mine), Full Black (SH-ZC1-C12) and Sand Silver (SH-ZC1-C05).

• ERGONOMICS:

After using the C1 for a few days, I would say it is very nice to use. Unfortunately, I can’t go as far as calling it great to use, because using it for extended periods, my hand got tired. And that’s because of the grip… It has very nice dimensions and a very good weight. However, the grip (the whole body, in fact) is too smooth. The smoothness and the slightly rearward weight balance prompted me to grip it with more force than what I would like. And that being the case, for longer periods of use, it generated fatigue, to the point that to write this review I had to take a few breaks. If I used it only for a short stint, it was great, but for longer writing sessions it wasn’t exactly nice to use. Nonetheless, totally silent and with a totally firm lead sleeve.

HOWEVER, there’s a caveat for Tombow’s artistic license. Though it does have an eraser, the eraser is located inside the body, so you have to unscrew the body to use it. The same for loading lead: unscrew the body, remove the eraser, load the lead sticks and assemble everything back up. There’s always a price to pay for artsy gimmicks…🤷‍♂️

• MY THOUGHTS:

My affair with the ZOOM line goes back a few years, though only at the platonic level. The first ZOOM I ever saw was the 707, and once I almost bought the ballpoint version. Come to think of it, back then I don't think I was even aware that there was also a mechpen version... Well, I wanted a pen to carry around, and the 707 looked awesome, but in the end, I feared it wasn’t very practical, so I gave up the idea. Years later, when the mechpen madness took hold of my mind, I went after the 707, and that’s when I found out about the C1. It was a case of love at first sight, but at the time, it was outrageously expensive.

Here in Brazil my options to import a model are quite limited, but one place that is easier to use is Amazon. Two years ago, however, there was only one or two offers for the C1 at Amazon, and the price was totally ridiculous. Even so, I put it on my watch list and kind of forgot about it, because it was just impossible. Then, some two months ago, I looked it up and this blue one was priced at 45 bucks. Delivered 😲! I immediately bought it, and though it took quite some time to arrive, I finally had a C1 in my collection.

All in all, the C1 is a VERY nice general-purpose mechpen, with looks to die for. However, I don’t think it would be a great daily driver, because using it for extended periods is fatiguing (at least for me). And of course, it’s a bit awkward to use the eraser and even to load lead. Even so, I was over the moon about it, because it was kind of a grail model for my collection. Therefore, despite it becoming a collection queen, it makes me proud to look at it beside my L2, 707 and 505 😊.

Seasar will release a special edition of the Kerry - video on YT.

5500JPY, coming out in a few days. Yay or nay 🧐?

First time I see this quartet (on AliX).

Looks like Pentel is taking the Staedtler 925 route...

^(Just elegant.)

• MODEL:

LUDDITE EverDraw Walnut/Chrome – model LDW-MP4WN-05
0.5 mm (only available in 0.5 mm)    

• MATERIALS:

As you can see, the big deal about the EverDraw is the wooden body – in this case, walnut wood. The cone tip, eraser cap and grip are metal (tin?), while the pocket clip is stainless-steel. Inside, you get a plastic lead tube, a g-o-r-g-e-o-u-s full-brass clutch and a stainless-steel spring. Though the clutch is way more upscale, this setup reminds me a lot of a Sharp.

• ERASER:

One of those generic (and effective) white latex rubber erasers, with a metal collet and NO lead-jam clearing rod 🙄. It’s the exact same one Staedtler uses for the 925 35/25, albeit sans lead-jam clearing rod.

• MEASUREMENTS:

The EverDraw has what I think of as “traditional drafting pencil measurements”. It is 138 mm long, with a center of mass located 65 mm from the tip. Conversely, a bit heavy for a traditional drafting pencil, tipping my scale at 21.82 g. It is a uniform cylinder, so from the top all the way to the cone tip it has a diameter of 9.3 mm.

• FEATURES:

I think that the EverDraw is supposedly a drafting mechpen, yet I can also see it as a general-purpose pencil. If the former, it’s very poor on features, with nothing that you usually expect to see on a drafting pencil. However, if the later, than that’s it: as supposed, it looks good and feels good. Either way, nothing for me to comment on here 🤷‍♂️.

• AESTHETICS:

When I first saw photos of the EverDraw, it called out to me because it looks a lot like something vintage from Uni, Pentel or Pilot. You know, those old ones that look like land darts? Yeah, très cool. Vintage-looking or not, I think it is absolutely gorgeous. The wooden body contrasts very well with the chrome metal parts. Moreover, though with a simple design, the cone tip blends perfectly with the knurled grip.

The EverDraw is available in two kinds of wood, walnut and cherry, and you can also have the metal parts either chromed or in black.

• ERGONOMICS:

Though I’m over the moon about the looks of the EverDraw, I’m not that excited about its ergonomics… The pencil has a great feel to it, with that wooden barrel and oh-so-very-nice grip. Also, the weight is perfect, and it has a terrific weight balance. Yet, it’s too thin 😢. That diameter of 9.3 mm is just too slim for my hand, demanding a more forceful grip. And with that, my hand tired really fast, to the point I was forced to take some breaks just writing this review. For fast stuff, like short notes, it’s fine, but for longer stints, it was tiring. A true shame, because it feels very smooth to use, with zero rattling and a rock-solid lead sleeve.

• MY THOUGHTS:

I went after the EverDraw because I think it looks GORGEOUS. Speaking of looks, I finally found a drafting pencil that can stand up to my beloved S20… Unfortunately though, it talks the talk but doesn’t walk the walk. Because of the too thin grip, for long writing sessions my hand started hurting, forcing me to take breaks. An absolute shame, because beautiful as it is, and with such a high-end build quality, the EverDraw could possibly have been my favorite mechpen.

^(One word: CLASS.)

• MODEL:

Tombow ZOOM L2 – model SH-ZL2C08
0.5 mm (only available in 0.5 mm)    

• MATERIALS:

Despite the metallic look, the L2 is mostly plastic. Though the body is plastic, it’s quite different from what I’m used to see. I don’t know if the plastic of the body per se is different or if it has some sort of rubber coating, because it’s almost warm to the touch, like soft rubber. The cone tip and that ferrule on the top are made of a low-iron alloy, while the pocket clip is stainless-steel. The cap, however, is just normal plastic. Unfortunately, I couldn’t get very far taking the L2 apart. In fact, the only thing I could disassemble was the cone tip - unscrewing it you are rewarded by a BEAUTIFUL full-brass clutch. All the rest of the innards, with the exception of the clutch spring, I think are all plastic.

• ERASER:

No such thing as a plebeian eraser here, so don’t dare make a mistake 🧐.

• MEASUREMENTS:

The L2 is 140 mm long, from the cone tip to the plastic cap, and has an absolutely neutral balance: the center of mass is exactly at 70 mm. The body is some sort of fusiform rounded triangle; with that, right below the pocket clip it has a diameter of 9.7 mm that increases to 9.8 mm around the half way point and then decreases to just 7 mm right above the cone tip. It’s also quite light, weighing only 13.13 g.

• FEATURES:

Though I can’t be 100% certain about this, I think that the L2 was made for a classy office environment. Therefore, it looks classy. And yes, that’s all it does…

• AESTHETICS:

If the major objective of the L2 was to look classy, then Tombow went way above and beyond their initial goal. When I took the L2 out of its fancy box, what immediately came to my mind was the word “classy”. Among over a hundred mechpens in my collection, from a “fancy high-end” point of view, the L2 is one of the best looking that I have. Interestingly, I don’t think of it as elegant, but just classy – sleek, minimalistic and even artsy 😎. And if you prefer something other than silver, Tombow offers three other colors.

• ERGONOMICS:

In general terms, with a sub-10 mm grip, I should classify the L2 ass “too thin”. In fact, you probably would read me moaning about how such a nice-looking pencil just talks the talk but doesn’t walt the walk. However, there won’t be no moaning here. It’s far from my most comfortable pencil to use, because, after all, it is thin, but that rubbery finish on the body is absolutely delightful to hold. How nice, you may ask? Think about the HEXAGONAL, one of the nicest mechpens I have. Yeah, that nice… And as a bonus, zero rattling.

• MY THOUGHTS:

Though my fate in the ZOOM line was shaken with the L102, after the L2 I can say I’m once again a HUGE fan of the line. The L2 is a beautiful mechpen that is very nice to use as a general purpose mechpen, and I think it could be a great daily driver. Of course, that is if, like me, you don’t need the mechpen’s built-in eraser. Overall, it may not be THE best in terms of comfort, but it’s a mechpen that would be perfect for somebody who wants to show discreet good taste AND needs a nice overall mechpen.

Pentel just released this on their official Instagram site:

The list of Orens Nero components is released!

Please take a closer look at the internal mechanism that is usually not visible 🔍👀

Mechanism to balance “unbroken” and “continuing to write” ⭐

"Olens system" that protects the core with pipes.

The tip pipe slides according to the reduction of the core,

It can be written without breaking even with an ultra-fine core.

In addition, the core comes out every time you release the tip of the pen.

"Automatic core outing mechanism" that does not require knocking.

With only the first knock,

You can keep writing until the core is short.

Because the "ball" of the component parts is very small,

It is not included in this image.

Pentel Graph600 – PG600 series

Last year I decided that I would have in my collection all the Pentel Graph models. For each series, I would have one mechpen in each of the calibers that Pentel offers/offered for each of their Graph series. Of the Graph600 series, the first that I found was the PG605. Beautiful, with (IMO) the coolest-looking grip and cone tip of all the Graph pencils. And at first, I thought the PG600 series consisted of four different calibers, but later on I found out it’s only three: 0.3, 0.5 and 0.7 mm.

Right now they’re pretty hard to find, so after I got the 0.5 mm, I was certain that it was a pipe dream to have the full house 😭. But then, some two months ago, I scored the 0.7 mm from Korea. And now, also from Korea, I found the 0.3 mm! With that, my Graph600 quest is complete 😎. Really cool, because I think the G600 is perhaps THE coolest of all Pentel’s Graph pencils, bar none.

Interestingly, both of my Korean models came with a box. Here in Brazil, they came loose. Is the box a Korean feature or did other markets also offer it?

^(Finally!)

• MODEL:

Pentel orenz AT Dual Grip – model XPP2005-C
0.5 mm (only available in 0.5 mm)    

• MATERIALS:

Though the AT’s body is plastic, it’s a very good plastic, smooth and very well cast with no mold line. The pocket clip, eraser cap and lead sleeve are stainless steel, while the grip and cone tip are some metal alloy. The grip, in fact, consists of a metal cylinder (a dodecagon, in reality) with a rubber insert inside, with square bumps poking out – that’s why it’s called “Dual Grip”.

Inside things are a bit complicated to describe… Well, the whole pencil consists of one plastic cylinder, with the metal/rubber grip covering about 1/3 of the lower half. Moreover, there isn’t a lead tube, per se – the lead is stored inside the body. And the clutch? Well, it doesn’t have a clutch 🤨. Unfortunately though, I’m still to see a picture of how it looks inside, so bear in mind that what I’ll say here is exclusively based on what I deduced.

The orenz System works in a very simple, yet, unconventional way: the lead isn’t pushed out by a clutch, but pulled out by the lead sleeve. Attached to the base of the pipe sleeve, inside of the cone tip, there’s a rubber retainer, and this setup rests against a spring. Moreover, look at that transparent plastic cylinder. Inside it has a smaller black plastic cylinder and a spring, with a brass cap that has a hole in the middle. Inside the brass part I would guess there’s some kind of ball chuck that will hold the lead in place. Up above, in the body, there is a system where a rubber piece (not a clutch, so I’m guessing another retainer or perhaps another ball chuck system?) “grabs” the lead stick by friction when you push it down by knocking the eraser cap. Once the lead stick goes through that plastic/brass part and arrives at the lead sleeve, the system is “primed”. Since the lead sleeve is set up against the cone tip, and there’s no clutch to hold the lead in place, when you write (i.e., force the lead against the paper), the lead and lead sleeve retract into the cone tip. When you lift the lead from the paper, the spring pushes the lead sleeve out. And since the rubber retainer is “grabbing” the lead through friction, the lead goes out with it. Of course, that only pushes the lead out a fraction of a millimeter, just enough for the lead to clear the rim of the sleeve. Even though only very little lead pokes out of the sleeve, it’s enough to write.

Honestly, though I infer that this is how it works in general terms, keep in mind I’m really guessing here 🤔. As I said, I never saw a technical or official explanation of the system.

• ERASER:

Contrary to what I was expecting, the AT doesn’t come with a Z2-1N eraser. Though it seems to be the same white latex rubber used on the Z2-1N, it’s smaller and doesn’t have a metal collet. And of course, no lead-jam clearing rod 🙄.

• MEASUREMENTS:

The AT measures 139 mm from extended lead sleeve to eraser cap. It’s mostly a uniform cylinder, with 9.5 mm of diameter right below the pocket clip. At the grip that slightly increases to 9.9 mm, but if you measure the rubber bumps, then it has 10 mm of diameter. It’s also slightly lighter than I expected, weighing 14.79 g. However, with a pronounced forward gravity center (58 mm from the tip), it does feel heavier.

• FEATURES:

The orenz AT is not only a drafting mechpen but also has an auto-advance system. So, knock it once or twice, to get the lead poking out of the lead sleeve, and essentially use it without knocking until you used up all that lead stick. And since only about 0.1 mm of the lead sticks out of the lead sleeve, the possibility of the lead breaking at this level is almost impossible. Moreover, for the auto-feed system to work, the AT has a sliding sleeve, so you can also store it with the sleeve retracted. Despite being a drafting pencil, the AT’s lead sleeve is only 3 mm long, instead of the more common 4 mm seen on other drafting mechpens.

• AESTHETICS:

When I first saw a AT (and I have to point out it was the silver one), I thought it was kind of ugly, because of the grip. Though I have nothing against a dual grip like this, in my eyes that AT made me think of the GG800 (P360 series). Sorry to say, but the GG800 looks REALLY cheap, with that metal grip that is not a tube, but a sheet of metal bent around the body and with a rubber insert. However, with this AT in my hand, my opinion changed. The mat finish of the metals gives it a more upscale look, and thankfully, the metal grip is a tube, so there’s no god-awful seam line. With that, even though I think/wish Pentel could have been more creative in terms of color combinations, I really dig the AT’s looks. Originally the AT was available in blue, red/maroon, silver and black/gray. But since Pentel wants to make money and we collectors are essentially suckers for anything that has “LE” in the description, now there is a lot of different color variations 🙄.

• ERGONOMICS:

As a disclaimer, I have to say this up front: in general, I do NOT like auto-advance mechpens 🤐. In my opinion, the advantage of not having to knock the pencil once in a while does not compensate for the scratching. And yes, all current auto-feeders use a sliding sleeve, so the tip of the sleeve contacts the paper and unavoidably there will be scratching. With that said, now I’ll say this: the orenz AT is the first auto-advance that I liked. Yes, there is scratching, but for the first time it’s so minimal that it didn’t bother me. However, the AT doesn’t produce a line that is uniformly black. Sometimes, and especially if you rotate the pencil in your hand, the corner of the sleeve will touch the paper, and not just the lead. With that you won’t get a 100% uniform line in terms of darkness, more so if you write in block letters and not cursive. It’s a subtle effect, not even remotely close to something like a ball pen that is running out of ink, but paying close attention, it can be noticed. Yet, that’s using B and 2B (especially) lead; with something harder I don’t think it will happen. For those who really tilt the pencil to write, however, I would guess that you will get more scratching and more uneven line density.

In terms of ergonomics proper, the AT is very good: nice grip diameter, nice tactile feel for the grip and nice weight. Well, I normally prefer heavier mechpens, but since the center of gravity here is located quite forward, it feels good in my hand. As a bonus, zero rattling and no issue with the position of the pocket clip. Since the sleeve is not static, there's also some very slight wobble, but very little – I had to pay attention to feel it. Probably that is the case because of the slightly shorter sleeve. I wonder if this is an unintended bonus or a very clever design feature 🤔?

• MY THOUGHTS:

While the regular orenz came out in 2014, and the orenznero in 2017, the AT (Automatic Technology) came out in January, 2023. The orenznero was a sort of grail for me, yet I was somewhat disappointed by it. Though everybody praised it, I found it to be too-scratchy for my tastes. And to make things worse, it was also too slim. With that, I became a tad leery in relation to the whole orenz line. However, with the AT in hand, now I’m thinking “Why didn’t I get this sooner?!?” 😜. The AT’s ergonomics, though not what I would consider as perfect, are VERY good. And, it looks very nice too! However, the most important factor here is the auto-advance system, that is actually a feature and not a gimmick. For the first time I’m using an auto-feeder that I don’t have to knock the same way I do with a normal mechpen, because the thing works without a cost. Bottom line, color me very impressed.

I liked this thing so much that I’m even thinking about getting it in another color… And for me to consider a second mechpen in the same caliber but just in a different color? That very rarely happens, so more proof of how much I liked the AT 🥰.

A few months ago, I bought a 3-pencil leather case, from Contact’s Family. I’m not sure, but I think you can only find the brand at AliX. Hand-made, using “crazy horse leather” 😜. I honestly don’t know if that’s how the leather used is actually called or one of those terms lost in translation from Mandarin to English… Whatever the case, the fact is that the case is not expensive and VERY well made. I wanted something to haul around a mechpen and a pen eraser from my home to the office, that kept the mechpen safe and was easy to use. And for that, this case really shines. However, it had one issue: it was one pencil too big for my needs. Therefore, I ordered their two-pencil case, and it arrived a couple of weeks ago.

The same good craftsmanship, leather from the same mental horse, but now in the ideal size for what I wanted. Yet, it had a very serious issue. The tray, that goes into the outer case, fits really snug in there. And with that, it was really hard to pull it out. Of course, I could just tip the case over and let the mechpen fall out into my hand. Yet, the flap is closed by strong magnets (one on the flap one on the case), and a few mechpens would get stuck because the case magnet grabbed them 🤦‍♂️. And since the case is narrow, it was hard to pull the try out. It was so bad that it was impractical to use, so just after a day of use, I threw it in a drawer and was resigned to count it as lost money. Boogers.

However, last week I got a new leather-covered journal. You know those (kind of) pocket size models that are closed with a rubber band around the cover? Yeah, and that rubber band got me thinking. The rubber band thing worked very well, and was anchored to the cover, so what if in some way I attached a string to pull the tray out 🤔? With the idea in mind, I went to my shop. I punched two holes on each side of the tray’s outer walls and tied a short nylon string, leaving a loop over the top. And voilà, my new 2-slot mechpen case was back in business 😎! In fact, the idea worked so well that I did the same to my older 3-slot case, making it easier to use. Simple and effective, and as you can see, I didn’t ruin the looks of the case.

So nice when a plan works out…😉

^(Nice? The jury is still deliberating...)

• MODEL:

LAMY AL-star (pine) – model 1241174
0.5 mm (only available in 0.5 mm)    

• MATERIALS:

As the name implies, the AL-star has an aluminum body, eraser cap and external cone tip, but the grip is plastic. The pocket clip, though metal and rigid, is not steel. Brass or copper, perhaps? Since it’s covered by a plastic sleeve, I can’t say. Internally, however, most everything is plastic, with the exception of the clutch. The clutch is full-metal, with brass chucks and some alloy for the collet. The spring is (stainless?) steel and the “inner” cone tip is plastic. The lead sleeve, obviously, is stainless-steel.

• ERASER:

LAMY calls this eraser the Z 18 model. It’s a somewhat chunky white latex eraser, that’s not only not very big, I also found it to be a little less effective than a regular Tombow MONO eraser. What is interesting is the VERY elaborate lead-jam clearing rod. A far cry from the normal stainless-steel wire stuck on the bottom of the eraser that we normally see 😏.

• MEASUREMENTS:

The AL-star is 144 mm long, from eraser cap to lead sleeve tip (which is 3 mm long). Though I expected more weight, it weighs only 15.83 g, and it’s my most unbalanced mechpen – the center of gravity is located 86 mm from the tip. Yeah, top heavy. The diameter is pretty good for my tastes, with the body measuring 11.4 mm. At the grip that decreases to 10.1 mm and at those bumps, right above the cone tip, the diameter is 11.1 mm.

• FEATURES:

The AL-star is a general purpose mechpen, so other than materials and form, there isn’t much to talk about here.

• AESTHETICS:

LAMY offers the AL-star in a bazillion color combinations. This one is called pine (just pine, not pine green), and in theory it’s supposed to be a LE color. The unique green tone with the black accents is what made me choose it. And of course, LAMY has a VERY unique look, what in my eyes translates to “German industrial” look. LAMY became famous for their looks with the Safari in the 1980s, and in the late 90s they followed it with the AL-star, in basically the same format. If you add everything up, the color, format and the big wire pocket clip, I think the AL-star looks VERY nice.

• ERGONOMICS:

This is going to be rough, so oh boy, where do I start 🙄? Okay, the plastic grip. It’s made of very smooth plastic, and that is something that will raise eyebrows in many (most?) mechpen users. However, the big deal here is the triangular shape. Most folks, and me included, rotate the pencil in his/her hand to keep the lead sharp. To do that with the AL-star means that sometimes you will rest one of those three ridges against your middle finger. Since the plastic is rigid, it’s not comfortable. And do remember that the plastic is very smooth, so you’ll probably hold it with more pressure.

But the worse for me are those bumps at the end of the grip, right above the cone tip. To rest them against my finger was not just uncomfortable but actually painful 😣. And again, remember that the plastic is very smooth, so think about using it with sweaty hands…

If all that sounds bad, keep reading because I’m not done yet. There’s also that long pocket clip, that despite being round and very smooth, WILL hit the meat between your thumb and index finger. To keep those god-damned bumps away from my finger, I have to hold the pencil higher, and consequently, the pocket clip is a bother. AND, the AL-star is top heavy, so for my tastes the weight distribution is screwed up 🤦‍♂️.

All right, now I’m done.

• MY THOUGHTS:

My relation with LAMY goes almost three decades back. Back then, when I mostly used fountain pens, my AL-star was my most used fountain pen. It had great dimensions, with great ergonomics. I really enjoyed using it, so that’s why I wanted the equivalent model in a mechpen format. And essentially, both the fountain pen and mechpen share the same grip. Therefore, the mechpen should be just as good as the fountain pen, right?

No, not even close. You don’t rotate a fountain pen, and it needs a lot less pressure to write smoothly. Consequently, I think LAMY should not have imported the same grip from the fountain pen to the mechpen. Of course, for people who don’t habitually rotate the mechpen while using it, then maybe all this is a moot point. But if not…

So, what’s the moral of this story? I think that this particular AL-star looks GREAT, and with the multitude options available, I think there’s a color for everyone. The eraser I have to say is just so-so, but for me, since I exclusively use a dedicated pen eraser, that’s not a problem. But the ergonomics… Let’s just say that the AL-star looks great in my collection and that’s where it will stay.

For ever and ever.

^(Not the best Zoom...)

• MODEL:

Tombow ZOOM L102 – model DLA-111A
0.5 mm (only available in 0.5 mm)    

• MATERIALS:

You can almost call the L102 the “aluminum mechpen”, because it’s mostly aluminum. That is, with the exception of the lead sleeve, eraser cap and grip, that are plastic, and the pocket clip, which is stainless steel. The lead sleeve isn’t aluminum, but some diecast alloy (tin?). And take note: as a rule of thumb, good mechpens will have stainless-steel pocket clips, so Tombow couldn’t use aluminum here. According to Tombow’s site, the body is made of 0.4 mm aluminum, with a mat polish. Inside you get a full-brass clutch and stainless-steel spring, with a plastic lead tube.

• ERASER:

It comes with a very decently-sized white latex rubber eraser, that works pretty well. It’s one of those “generic” mechpen erasers – for instance, it’s interchangeable with Uni’s Pure Malt pencils (slim and wide versions), albeit a tad longer.

• MEASUREMENTS:

The L102, from tip to cap, measures 142 mm, with the center of gravity very slightly towards the tip, at 69 mm. And being mostly aluminum, it’s really light*,* weighing only 11.34 g. Therefore, despite a slightly-forward center of mass, for all events and purposes consider it as having neutral balance. Moreover, it’s also on the slim side – the body is a 10.3 mm cylinder, that tappers to 8.5 mm at the end of the grip.

• FEATURES:

Well, since the L102 is a “general purpose” mechpen, there isn’t much to talk about here… Maybe I could cite it being a featherweight as a feature, but only if you happen to like really light pencils 🤔.

• AESTHETICS:

If I would to describe the L102, I would say it looks minimalistic and even with a somewhat industrial flair. I guess that is specially the case because of the natural/brushed aluminum finish, and of course, because of the square pocket clip. I think it does look good, but it’s far from striking, so perhaps the other colors would have been better. When released, Tombow offered the L102 in four colors: Silver, Navy, Dahlia Pink, and Peacock Green.

• ERGONOMICS:

In the ergonomics department, unfortunately the L102 didn’t score very high in my book 😕. First and foremost is the weight, or better yet, the lack of weight. Add to that a too thin grip, and my hand was tired in less than 20 minutes of use. Moreover, the grip is just smooth plastic, so imagine using it with sweaty hands.

• MY THOUGHTS:

The first ZOOM pencil came out in 1987 – the out-of-this-world 707, designed by Tsuyoshi Hasegawa. Many models followed, and from what I could infer, the L102 was released in August 2012, alongside the ball point version (a multi-function pen came some months later). However, they’re all currently out of production.

Nonetheless, and I’m sad to say, but I was disappointed with the L102. Being part of the ZOOM series I expected a better performance. It does look quite good – sleek and professional, but that’s it. I don’t think the L102 is a nice mechpen for extensive use, and I would definitively skip it for everyday use 🙁.

^(Cheap and GREAT!)

• MODEL:

PILOT Opt Shaker – model HOP-20R-SD
0.5 mm (available in 0.4 and 0.5 mm)    

• MATERIALS:

The Opt is a budget model, therefore… Yep, plastic everywhere, with the exception of the cone tip (tin?), springs, counter-weight and clutch – brass collet and some other alloy for the chucks. The grip, however, is silicone rubber. I couldn’t get into the counter-weight and internal spring(s), since to do so, I would have to disassemble the pocket clip. With everything made of plastic, even though it’s a cheap model, I didn’t want to risk damaging any parts. Curiously, and to my surprise, the counter-weight seems to be made of steel (or from a high-content steel alloy), since my magnet easily picked it up.

• ERASER:

The Opt comes with a not-small (13 mm) eraser made of white latex rubber. Though in a decent size, it rides really low inside the top of the lead tube, so I’m not certain how much of those 13 mm will be effectively of use. Nonetheless, works fine for a built-in eraser.

• MEASUREMENTS:

From tip to eraser cap, the Opt is 149 mm long, with the center of mass located at 67 mm from the tip. Therefore, tip heavy, in no doubt courtesy of the counter-weight. And speaking of weight, it is heavier than I expected, tipping my precision scale at 18.94 g. The pencil is mostly cylindrical, with 12 mm of diameter from the tip of the pocket clip to the beginning of the grip. From there on it tappers to 10 mm right above the cone tip.

• FEATURES:

Well, I guess the main selling point of the Opt Shaker is that it’s uhm, a shaker 🙄? And for the first time, this is a shaker that I like. Give it a (kind of) vigorous vertical shake and you get 0.5 mm of lead out of the lead pipe. Every time! Being precise, I didn’t need to knock the eraser cap not even once, unless I wanted to retract the lead. Another detail that I will count as a feature, is the pocket clip. Though plastic, it’s spring loaded a la GG1000. That being so, it’s really easy to clip the pencil on your pocket. Very neat!

• AESTHETICS:

I’m sorry, but you can’t escape this: put a plastic pocket clip on a mechpen and it will look cheap. So, of course this also applies to the Opt Shaker. Yeah, I know it’s a budget model, but still… Nonetheless, in this “Star Dust” pattern I think the Opt looks quite nice. PILOT offers a LOT of colors/schemes, so more than probably there is something for everyone. Other than Star Dust, you can choose between Carbon, Cut Glass, Dots, Etching, Metal (no, before you ask, it’s just shiny plastic), Stripes or Water.

• ERGONOMICS:

In this regard, I was REALLY surprised. Being blunt, the Opt Shaker is a great mechpen for everyday general use. Not only the shaker mechanism works very well, but it feels great in my hand. Essentially, perfect dimensions, great weight and weight distribution and a comfy grip. However, the pocket clip is a tad long, so it does hit the meat of my hand between thumb and index finger. Since the clip is smooth and without any live edges, this was a non-issue for me, though. And of course, being a shaker, don’t expect it to be tomb-silent. Yet, doing the math and factoring in price, the Opt Shaker feels much nicer than it should be.

• MY THOUGHTS:

Well, I’ll be damned… Me getting all happy because of a shaker 🤨? And to make things worse, a cheap shaker. This was one mechpen that caught me totally by surprise. Around here it’s showing up everywhere, and I honestly thought that this Star Dust version looked really good. Since it is cheap, what the hey, let’s see how bad it is. I was expecting something like a Twist-Erase Click – cheap but just okay. Something to use a couple of days and put it away in the collection and probably never use again. But no, what I got was a VERY competent writing tool. No doubt, a great daily driver.

HOWEVER, let’s not forget this is a budget model. Just look at the pocket clip. Though great to use, I’ll bet good money that that will be the first thing that gives, breaking at the pivot. Unfortunately, plastic is not exactly the golden standard if you want durability.

Nonetheless, until it breaks, the Opt Shaker is one heckuva mechpen. Though it’s cheap, I would say it’s good cheap. I really liked it, and from now on this will be the model I would suggest for somebody that wants a “cheap & good” mechpen.

^(PS: For the coffee geeks, that is a Yirgacheffe from Ethiopia. Honestly? Great, but better for pour-over than for espresso.)

^(A Tree Story.)

• MODEL:

Tombow KIMONOGATARI – model DHA-151B
0.5 mm (only available in 0.5 mm)    

• MATERIALS:

Wood! The KIMONOGATARI is Tombow’s most recent model with a wooden body. Looks like wood is on the rise lately… Though the pencil has a wooden body, the pocket clip is stainless-steel, and both the top cap and cone tip are metal. I would think they were made of tin or something similar, yet both are slightly magnetic, so there’s at least some iron in the alloy. And finally I can show a clutch from a wooden mechpen, and what a dandy it is. Full-brass! The lead tube, however, is environmentally unfriendly plastic.

• ERASER:

Eraser? What eraser 🤨? Just don’t make mistakes.

• MEASUREMENTS:

The KIMONOGATARI is like a needle: 146 mm from tip to top cap and with a diameter of only 7.5 mm. Thin like that, with a wooden body, it weighs half of a whisper – just 5.88 g 😳. Despite the stainless-steel pocket clip, weight is forward-biased, with the center of mass at 66 mm from the tip.

• FEATURES:

Features? What features 🤨? It has a wooden body, so move on.

• AESTHETICS:

Like with all wooden mechpens, I think you’ll either really dig the KIMONOGATARI or you won’t care at all for it. I’m in the first camp, yet I’m partial to wooden mechpens. To me it looks delicate and I think Tombow wanted to avoid making it look “just like a regular wooden pencil”. Therefore, it has a pocket clip and does NOT come in the traditional yellow, green, blue or black of classic wooden pencils. And I approve. Instead, Tombow offers the KIMONOGATARI in six different colors: Natural (this one), White, Baby Eyes Blue, Leaf Green, Forrest Green and Lilac Pink. All are very discreet and subdued.

• ERGONOMICS:

Here things get iffy… It’s absurdly thin, with just 7.5 mm in diameter. To that you add a very smooth paint job. The result? The KIMONOGATARI is quite slippery 😣. My hand was tired with just 15 minutes of writing. Moreover, it will certainly be worse if you have sweaty hands.

• MY THOUGHTS:

In Japanese, "Ki" (木) means "tree" or "wood," and "Monogatari" (物語) means "story" or "tale." Consequently, KIMONOGATARI translates to "Tree Story" or "Wood Story". And according to Tombow’s site, the KIMONOGATARI are “Forest-certified mechanical pencils that harness the warmth of nature”. Being “Forrest certified” means that the wood of the body comes from reforestation projects, so the Monogatari is part of Tombow’s Green product line.

Though the company line is ecofriendly and probably the pencil would score pretty high in a Feng Shui test, I have to be blunt: as a writing instrument the KIMONOGATARI falls short. Bad (terrible, dare I say?) ergonomics and no eraser just can’t be good 🙄. Conversely, as a collection piece, it shines. Bright! To the point that I’ll say this is my best wooden pencil.

Therefore, if, like me, you’re into wooden mechpens, the KIMONOGATARI is a GREAT acquisition. Yet, if you’re looking for a writing instrument, look elsewhere.

^(From the sea to stardom.)

• MODEL:

Tombow FUMI – model SH-FM11
0.5 mm (only available in 0.5 mm)    

• MATERIALS:

The FUMI is one of those mechpens defined by its materials. The body and the eraser cap are made of Nagori™, a composite material derived from seawater minerals, developed by Mitsui Chemicals. It’s hard to describe how it feels, but think of something between ceramic and a plastic resin, very cool to the touch. It has a matt finish, like non-polished resin, (very) slightly coarse. The pocket clip is stainless-steel and the cone tip is metal (tin?). Internally, though the lead tube is plastic, the FUMI has perhaps the most beautiful full-brass clutch that I have ever seen. And as expected, the spring is stainless-steel.

• ERASER:

Though I l-o-v-e Tombow’s erasers (in fact, I’m using a MONO zero ULTRAFINE right now), the erasers they supply for their mechpens are sad. Not that the rubber compound is bad - in my opinion it’s almost as good as the MONO zero that is right in front of me. The problem is that it’s ridiculously small 🤦‍♂️.

• MEASUREMENTS:

The FUMI measures 143 mm from tip to eraser cap, and has a fusiform body. Right below the pocket clip it has a diameter of 11.3 mm, that tapers to 11 mm around the middle of the body and then to just 7.5 mm right at the cone tip. Though I was expecting something much lighter, the FUMI weighs 19.6 g (!). It is slightly tip heavy, with the center of mass located at 66 mm from the tip.

• FEATURES:

As I said above, what the defines the FUMI is the use of Nagori. Other than that, it’s a general-purpose (dress?) mechpen with no mechanical feature.

• AESTHETICS:

Sober – that is the word for the FUMI. It is discreet and has a classy air to it, so I think it looks great. The writings on the body are engraved and not printed, which gives it a more refined look. The seam, between both parts of the body, is REALLY fine, you can almost miss that it has two parts. With all that, I think it’s safe to consider the FUMI as a dress mechpen. Tombow offers the FUMI in Stone Black (this one), Sea Blue, Shell White, and Sand Gray. In my eyes, Stone Black is THE color for it, especially because the others are not homogeneous, so there might be some contrast between the upper and lower parts of the body. Mine, however, looks almost as made of just one solid piece. According to Tombow, because of the manufacturing process, no two FUMI are identical, which in my mind is a plus.

• ERGONOMICS:

Fantastic! Not only the dimensions, weight and weight balance are great, but the Nagori material feels great in my hand. Interestingly, it feels cool to the touch, and after using it for a while it doesn’t warm up as what you see with plastic or even metal. For people with sweaty hands, I’m sure that is a plus. However, in terms of traction it’s not very grippy, so if your hands do get sweaty, maybe it will become slippery.

• MY THOUGHTS:

When I bought the FUMI, I wasn’t certain what to expect. Honestly, I bought it because it was something new from Tombow, so I got essentially for collection purposes. Nonetheless, to my surprise, I enjoyed using it much more than I expected. Though I usually favor drafting models, the FUMI would be a pencil I would look forward to using all day long. It just looks great, and more importantly, writes great. If I had to say something negative about it would be the puny eraser. Yet, many other models are guilty of that same fault, and besides, I always prefer to use a pen eraser, so for me at least it’s a non-issue. All that said, the FUMI rocks. If ever Tombow releases the FUMI in other calibers, it would be a must-buy for me. Yeah, I really liked it 🤩!

^(The best STAEDTLER ever?)

• MODEL:

Staedtler HEXAGONAL – model 925 77-05B
0.5 mm (only available in 0.5 mm)    

• MATERIALS:

As far as I can tell, the HEXAGONAL is full-metal. I say “as far as I can tell” because you can’t disassemble it further than unscrewing the cone tip and removing the eraser cap 🤷‍♂️. The body is either aluminum or brass (judging by the weight, I would guess aluminum) covered in a sort of rubber coating. The eraser cap, cone tip and lead sleeve are also metal (tin?), while the pocket clip is stainless steel. The clutch is full-brass and absolutely gorgeous, and the spring is (stainless) steel. Removing the eraser cap, you can see that at least the top part of the lead tube is aluminum, but I bet that the tube per se is plastic.

• ERASER:

STAEDTLER wanted to give this mechpen a vintage look, so they went with a pink latex rubber eraser. Seems to be good, but I always have the impression that white latex is better 🤔. For the price, I would expect it to have a metal collet AND a lead-jam clearing rod, but nope, nothing of the sort.

• MEASUREMENTS:

As a “classic” drafting pencil, measurements here are what you would expect. It measures 147 mm from tip to eraser cap, with a 4 mm-long lead sleeve. It weighs a very nice 17.4 g, with, to my surprise, a slightly rearward weight balance, at 75 mm from the tip. As the name says, the HEXAGONAL has a hexagonal body, with a diameter of 8.6 mm.

• FEATURES:

Once again, I’ll remind you that the HEXAGONAL is a classic drafting pencil, so the only mechanical feature is a lead hardness indicator. The eraser cap has a (metal!) over cap that when twisted, can display 3B, 2B, B, HB, F, H and 2H in the small window. However, what makes the HEXAGONAL stand apart, is the rubber coating applied to the body, making it a dream to handle. Probably the nicest mechpen to hold that I have.

• AESTHETICS:

Maybe (probably) I’m getting old, so I’m not the greatest fan of the tacticool look anymore. And yes, all that black with just the writings on the body in silver does give it a tacticool vibe… Conversely, I can also say it’s a classic drafting pencil, so it should look just simple and effective. Which it does. So, in the end, I do like the looks. But if this black one is too tacticool for you, STAEDTLER also offers it in blue (two tones), silver, gray, yellow (the coolest?) and red, yet be prepared to pay LE prices. Just keep in mind that this regular black one is NOT cheap, so, yeah… ☠

• ERGONOMICS:

Outstanding! I really liked how it feels in my hand. That rubber coating is a heckuva nice thing, making the pencil a true pleasure to use. Take note that for me to like A LOT a pencil with a sub-9 mm diameter means that STAEDTLER did something really right here. The hefty weight also contributes to that, and the slightly rearward weight balance is not an issue. Besides, ZERO rattling and solid lead sleeve! If I were to use only one word to describe the HEXAGONAL that word would be smooth.

• MY THOUGHTS:

I can honestly say that the HEXAGONAL blew my socks off. I was actually expecting the feel of a 925 25/35, but with a hexagonal body. In fact, I was expecting it to be probably less nice than the 925 25/35 😬. To my surprise, the HEXAGONAL is much better than (until now) my top STAEDTLER pencils. Heck, it’s even nicer than the vaunted REG! Without a doubt it overachieved, and I can say it’s one of my best mechpens. And by that, I’m including it in the Top 3!

HOWEVER, not everything are roses… You can find on the interwebs complaints that the rubber coating doesn’t last very long, and is easy to scratch. Moreover, in my experience, this kind of soft rubber has the tendency to “melt” with time – it becomes sticky. So, for now I’m totally delighted with the HEXAGONAL, yet my opinion can radically turn in some years.

Let’s wait and see. And hope 😕.

Different from mechpens (very differently, in fact), in no way do I collect erasers. Thank the Gods, I already collect too much stuff for sanity... Yet, I do have a few erasers because I need them. And yes, I do admit that I have more than I need, but that's neither here nor there, so lets get on with this, shall we? In general, I frankly prefer those pen erasers, with retractable rubber. In terms of precision, I think they are much better to use than block erasers. That being said, my go-to eraser was always the Tombow MONO zero retractable eraser. But with Pentel’s release of the Clic Eraser FOR PRO, that I think looks cool af, I had get one just to check it out. Because I'm one of the cool kids. Moreover, I also got the Eraser Clic 2, to see how Pentel’s budget model performs. Armed with white A4 paper I did a simple test, using 0.3 and 0.9 mm mechpens, both loaded with Ain 2B. Testing done, here’s the results of my totally not-scientific but true seat-of-the-pants analysis of how my current erasers stack up against each other:

 

• SAKURA SAKURAFOAM

THE BEST eraser I have ever used. Period. Absurd erasing power, doesn’t produce too much dust and doesn’t get “stained” with lead dust despite having a lot of surface. The only issue with it is that SAKURA doesn’t offer it in click pen form. As a block, it’s FAR from precise when you want to erase one letter or a small word. Even so, for me this is the eraser that sets the bar for all erasers that I use, and that’s why I have to start with it. So, despite not being very precise, it’s the best I have.
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐/5

 

• Tombow MONO zero

I have all three sizes: 2.5×5 mm (rectangle), 3.8 mm (round) and 2.3 mm (round). The 3.8 mm is called MONO Knock 3.8 and the 2.3 mm and 2.5×5 mm is called MONO zero ULTRA-FINE, respectively, 2.3 and 2.5×5 mm. They all use the exact same latex rubber compound, so what varies is the format and surface. Moreover, all three use a regular knock system – click the top cap and the rubber advances out the tip. And yes, it’s the same rubber compound used on Tombow’s mechpens. With that, I think you can group them together, because performance is exactly the same. They erase very well; the knock pen system works great and they don’t leave too much residuals. In terms of comfort the 2.5×5 mm is a little awkward to use because of the rectangular format; it works better if you rub along the long axis of the rectangle. Consequently, less rubbing surface, less area covered. On the other hand, the 2.3 mm has laser precision, and you can erase a comma in a sentence without messing with the words around. Great erasing power, yet a little shy compared to the SAKURA.
⭐⭐⭐⭐/5

 

• Pentel Clic Eraser 2

According to that sticker on the body, the model is ZE11T-C, and it is Pentel’s mass-produced and budget model pen eraser. The rubber seems to be the exact same compound of the Z2-1N erasers of their mechpen, but in a diameter of 6.6 mm. The feeding system is one of the most stupid systems I’ve ever seen in the industry. To advance the rubber, you have to push down on the pocket clip, that advances through a ratchet on the side of the body. With that, if the rubber is almost used up, you can’t clip it in your pocket because the pocket clip will be all the way down. Yeah, yeah, to put it in your pocket you just have to retrieve the eraser back into the body. But what if I want to leave the tip of the eraser out, ready to use? Stupid 🤦‍♂️. Well, at least the ratchet is solid, I didn’t have any problems with it slipping while using the eraser. Yet, a very good eraser, that works well, doesn’t stain and doesn’t produce too much dust.
⭐⭐/5

• Pentel Clic Eraser FOR PRO (ZE31)

Pentel offers the new FOR PRO eraser with three options of rubber. These are the ZE31 (mine), with black body and light gray rubber, for “precision” erasing; ZE32 (tan body, white rubber) for “general purpose” lead erasing and the ZE33 (gray body and black rubber) for oil-based ink. In terms of erasing power, I think it works at least as good as the MONO, but probably better. However, that fancy rectangular metal body S-U-C-K-S 😣. The rectangular format, with its live edges makes it uncomfortable to use. Worse of all is the ratchet system that keeps the rubber in place. You push the rubber out by sliding down that button on the side, and that is kind of loose. Therefore, when you press the rubber against the paper, sometimes it slips back up. If you only rub along the long axis, however, things are a bit better, but it still slips sometimes. And of course, you’ll have less erasing area, so you can’t use it on larger surfaces. Looks the part, but doesn’t work well, even though the eraser is (very!) good.
⭐/5

 

• STAEDTLER Radett

This is my oldest eraser; I think I have it for at least some 15 years. At the time, when I basically could only get brick erasers, this was THE eraser to have. And it still works well to this day. To advance the rubber out you slide down the black button on the side of the body, and it doesn’t slip. The rubber compound, however, is not the greatest. Its performance is okay, not great, yet it has a very annoying issue. Specially with softer leads, the latex rubber “stains” with lead dust, and turns black. If you don’t rub that off, it will get the paper dirty. If it wasn’t for the staining issue, I would rate it just below the MONO.
⭐⭐/5

 

RESULTS:

If SAKURA ever produced a pen eraser, that would be the be-all-end-all eraser. The Clic FP was a total let down, and I’m mad to have wasted money on it – cute but terrible. On the other hand, the Clic Eraser 2 also isn’t great, but at least it’s cheap, so I can’t complain much. With that, Tomobow’s models are, in practical terms, the best, with the exception of the 2.5×5 mm. That rectangular shape doesn’t work great. So if you need a heavy-duty eraser, you’ll have to rely on a block eraser, since the Knock 3.8 I can’t consider as big enough to be “heavy duty”. On the other hand, for precision erasing, the 2.5 mm reigns. The Radett, unfortunately, is annoying to use because every so often you have to clean the rubber or you’ll get lead stains on your white paper around where you’re erasing.

Bottom line, I would recommend the following. For heavy duty erasing, SAKURA Foam is the best, bar none. For minute erasing, one of the MONO, especially the 2.3 mm.

^(One word: classic.)

• MODEL:

Pentel PG5 – model PG5-AD
0.5 mm (only available in 0.5 mm)    

• MATERIALS:

The PG5 has a plastic body, knock cap and lead-hardness selector ring, yet everything else is metal. The pocket clip, lead sleeve and spring are stainless steel, while the clutch is full brass and the cone tip and lead tube are metal (tin and aluminum, respectively, or both tin?).

• ERASER:

WE DON’T NEED NO STINKY ERASER!!! Nonetheless, the knock cap comes with an impressive and funky lead-jam clearing rod 🧐.

• MEASUREMENTS:

Think about an old school drafting pencil: 148 mm from tip to cap (4 mm lead sleeve) and a body diameter of 8.2 mm right below the pocket clip, that narrows down to 7.2 mm right above the cone tip. And of course, it’s a feather-weight, tipping my scale at 9.6 g, with the center of mass located 68 mm from the tip.

• FEATURES:

Being something old school, the only feature of the PG5 is that yellow lead hardness indicator. Twisting it around, you can select 4H, 3H, 2H, H, HB and B. Interesting to see how it differs from modern drafting pencils, that usually have a selection that includes 2B and sometimes 3B although with less hard lead options.

• AESTHETICS:

In my eyes, this is where the PG5 shines. It looks exactly like something from the 70s – well, it did come out in 1972... I think that needle look won’t appeal to all, yet at least for us old-timers, many will have a soft spot for it.

• ERGONOMICS:

Though I’m very pleased with the PG5 in the looks department, in the works department I’m not that enthusiastic. I can’t help it, but thin mechpens just don’t agree very well with me. I would say it basically handles like a Sharp P205, yet a little better. And that’s because of the grip – though too thin, the concentric grooves on the plastic gives a better sensation than the Sharp’s much smoother grip. That pattern allows a firm grip, so even with sweaty hands I don’t think it would slip. However, being so thin, it was tiring to use 😕. Nonetheless, no rattling and the lead sleeve didn’t wobble a micrometer.

And I forgot to mention the loading method. To add a lead stick, you have to unscrew the top silver part and remove the funky click button+weird lead-jam clearing rod. The only issue is that you need to pay attention to the lead hardness window, that for sure will have rotated out of position. Not the speediest way to load a mechpen but no biggie.

• MY THOUGHTS:

Talk about classic stuff: Pentel first released the PG5 in 1972, as the Pentel Graph line. All the models, in 0.3, 0.5 and 0.7 mm followed this same style and were a no-frills down-to-earth drafting pencil. Think of a professional drafting mechpen - that was the PG5. Pentel still produces the PG5, and the only reason I can think of for them to do so is nostalgia or perhaps to keep collectors happy or the “flame burning”. I’m not complaining; though it’s far from the best mechpen I’ve used in terms of comfort, I think it's a GREAT collection piece. It’s something from a bygone era, when parameters were different. With that, unless you go after vintage models, I can’t think of any other current mechpen that have this vibe.

So, as a collection piece the PG5 is totally awesome - I should have gotten this sooner. However, as a writing tool or even a drafting pencil, I think there are quite better models available. It ain’t bad, but it’s definitively not great to use, especially for extended periods.

^(Nice, but not nice.)

• MODEL:

LEUCHTTURM1917 Drehgriffel Nr. 2 – model 366187
0.7 mm (only available in 0.7 mm)    

• MATERIALS:

This will be a long one, so let me start from the outside. The hexagonal body is aluminum, and I think that the knock knob on top also is. The last portion of the body is a cone, also metal (aluminum?). Removing the knock knob, you can see that its innards are plastic. When you unscrew the tip, you expose what I would call a “cartridge”, that contains the clutch mechanism. This cartridge is plastic, and on the top there’s a sort of plastic plug that closes the lead tube (plastic) and connects the knock knob with the clutch system. If you press down on that plug the lead advances just like with a normal knocking pencil. You can further unscrew the exterior cone tip, exposing the “inner” cone tip, that is stainless-steel. The cone tip proper can also be unscrewed, revealing a delicate full-brass clutch. That’s as far as you can go without breaking anything, but my magnet reveals steel (stainless, for certain) spring(s) inside the cartridge.

• ERASER:

LEUCHTTURM1917 supplies the Drehgriffel with one of those regular invisible and non-existent erasers.           

• MEASUREMENTS:

The Drehgriffel is on the short side in terms of length, with just 129 mm from tip to knock knob. It’s also pretty light for an almost all-metal mechpen, tipping my scale at 13.29 g - I was expecting something around 18 g. Even so, the weight balance is slightly forward, with the center of gravity located at 60 mm from the tip. The body is hexagonal, with rounded corners, having a “diameter” of 9.1 mm. The knock knob on top is slightly wider, with 9.3 mm.

• FEATURES:

Well, I could say that the Drehgriffel has ­negative features, since it doesn’t have a pocket clip and neither an eraser…🤔 Yet, I’ll focus on what made me interested in this mechpen – the knocking system. In general terms, a mechpen has essentially four types of system to advance the lead. Nowadays the HUGE majority of mechpens uses what we call the knocking system where you press down on the eraser cap or top cap and that “knocks” the pencil, pushing lead out. However, you still have “shakers” (shake the pencil to propel the lead), “twisters” (rotate the body or part of the body to push lead out) and more rarely, “knock bodies” (bend the body a little to advance the lead). The Drehgriffel is quite different, because it’s a blend of a normal knocking system with a twisting system. Therefore, to propel the lead, you have to rotate clockwise that knob on the top. However, you can only rotate ¼ of a turn, and that will advance the lead 1 mm, every time. Once the knob hits the stop, a spring pushes it back to where it started. If you want to push the lead back into the cone tip, you have to twist the knob, hold it there, and push the lead back in. A system with typical Teutonic precision, but it’s a two-hands job 😕. And to load lead, you have to unscrew the bottom part and unplug the cartridge, then load like a regular knocking mechpen.

At LEUCHTTURM1917’s site there’s a video showing how to use the rotating knock mechanism and how to load it - click here.

• AESTHETICS:

In terms of looks, the Drehgriffel looks quite nice, especially if you like a discreet pencil. However, in my eyes this black one is too discreet. From all the commercial pics available online, I was led to believe that the knob, bottom part and writings on the body would be in gray. However, as you can see, those elements are just slightly lighter than the black body, offering little to none contrast with the black body 🙄. I don’t think it looks bad, but more contrast would make it look MUCH better.

LEUCHTTURM1917 offers a total of 25 (!) color combinations, from black to white to everything in-between, though the top knob and point are always black or grayish. On the other colors, however, the contrast is actually there, so I think they look M UCH better than the black one.

• ERGONOMICS:

The Drehgriffel feels kind of good in my hand, and I can’t say anything better. It’s too thin to be comfortable, and that cone is even thinner, so my fingers will rest on something around 8 mm in diameter. So, unless I place my fingers higher, making it really awkward to use, it’s just too thin to be comfortable. Besides, it is totally smooth, so if you have sweaty hands, it will be slippery. And then there’s the operation, that demands both your hands, which is cumbersome. To that you can also add the loading process, which requires you to disassemble the mechpen. All in all, the Drehgriffel is NOT a breeze to use 🤷‍♂️. However, it suffers from ZERO rattling and the tip is rock solid.

• MY THOUGHTS:

According to LEUCHTTURM1917, the Drehgriffel is a revival of a concept from the 1920s. Drehgriffel, in German, means “twist stylus”, so I guess the original mechpen (or pen?) must have been a twisty. In 2020, Drehgriffel Nr. 1 (the pen version) received the Red Dot Design Award, and the Nr. 2 repeated the feat in 2022.

As a mechanical pencil, I liked the Drehgriffel, but as a writing instrument, I didn’t like it. As I wrote above, what enticed me about it was the unique operating system – what I would call a “rotating knock system”. I’m a gearhead through and through, so any unique mechanical feature will pique my interest. So, in terms of “mechanical features”, I find the Drehgriffel VERY cool.

However, when I put all that to use…😣 First is the hexagonal body, that is too thin to be comfortable. Moreover, without a pocket clip, it’s prone to roll around, especially because of the cap: it’s slightly wider than the body 🤦‍♂️. And then there’s the knocking. As interesting as the system is, it’s cumbersome to use, and the same goes for loading lead sticks into the pencil. And to make things worse, it’s hard to push the lead back into the tip. For instance, let’s say that you have 0.3 mm of lead sticking out, and you want to advance it a bit more. If you twist the knock knob, you’ll push exactly 1 mm out, so now you have 1.3 mm sticking out. But that’s too much, you fear the lead will break, so you have to push it back in. You can, but only if you push all of it in, so then you will start with zero – turn the knob and you get 1 mm out. And for all that effort you will need both hands. With that, it’s neither easy to use nor intuitive to use.

Bottom line, I think that the Drehgriffel is quite cool, both in looks and (specially!) in mechanical terms. And GREAT craftsmanship! But as a writing instrument it has some serious issues. I honestly wanted to like it more, and award winner or not, it really doesn’t deliver.

^(A killer mechpen.)

• MODEL:

Kitera LIFT+ – model LI2500.05-WH
0.5 mm (only available in 0.5 mm)    

• MATERIALS:

Full-metal! Or better yet, full-metals, because there is more than one metal here. The body is composed of two parts. The lower 1/3 part, the grip, is hexagonal and made of brass, while the upper body is an aluminum cylinder. The pocket clip is stainless steel, the eraser cap is tin (with a plastic or resin over cap) and the cone tip is brass. Inside things get even more interesting, though the lead tube is plastic. To connect the grip to the body there’s a chromed tin inner tube, with an O-ring on the lower half and a thread on the other end. While the grip is secured in place by the O-ring through friction, the body is screwed in place, with a plastic/rubber section in between the grip and body to keep things tight. The clutch is a mixture of brass, for the chucks, and stainless-steel, for the collet. And obviously, the spring is stainless-steel.

The paint job is nice and VERY smooth; however it looks to be on the thin side for my tastes. With that, I would worry about scratches if you’re not very careful with where you put it.

• ERASER:

White latex rubber eraser with no metal housing or lead-jam-clearing rod. Yes, I was expecting it to have a lead-jam clearing rod, especially at the price point 🤨. By the way, it’s the same exact eraser that comes with Platinum Pro-Use models, like the 171.

• MEASUREMENTS:

The LIFT+, from tip to cap, is 144 mm long, with a 4 mm lead sleeve. The body is 8.9 mm wide, while the hexagonal grip is 9.9 mm. With all that metal, as expected, it’s on the porky side of the scale, weighing 26.42 g. It’s also tip-heavy, with the center of mass located 62 mm from the tip.

• FEATURES:

As is the custom with most (good) drafting pencils, the LIFT+ comes with a lead hardness indicator. Located on the eraser cap, if you twist it around you can display B, HB, F, H, 2H or 3H. And maybe I could also cite the full-metal construction as a feature? But that’s it.

• AESTHETICS:

Available in two “color” schemes – white & black or totally black – the LIFT+ looks the part. Specially this white one, that I’m 100% certain that will be nicknamed “Stormtrooper” in the near future. Ah, us nerds…🙄

• ERGONOMICS:

IMHO, one of the best pencils I have. Why, you may ask? Well, 9.9 mm of grip and over 26 g of weight. I like my mechpens thick and heavy (go ahead, joke all you want, I know I asked for it… 😣). Besides, for my hand the weight distribution is perfect. The hexagonal grip has rounded corners, so it doesn’t hurt your fingers, even if you have a death grip. Yet, since the paint is really smooth, perhaps for sweaty hands it can be slippery. And as a plus, the lead sleeve is rock-solid and there’s no rattle whatsoever.

HOWEVER, there is one true issue: the pocket clip. It is 10 mm too long, and perhaps more importantly, it has sharp edges. With that, the tip hits the meat between my index finger and thumb, and that’s not nice. Therefore, when I rotate the pencil to sharpen the lead, sometimes I’m reminded that the pocket clip has sharp edges. Nothing terrible, but NOT ideal.

• MY THOUGHTS:

Kitera Shouji is a Japanese stationary brand, from Osaka, that eventually uses their brand name on products from other companies, using OEM designs. They operate something like MUJI, and even have a special edition of Pentel’s Smash. The LIFT+, however, is an inhouse effort, consequently with an original Kitera design. Well, with the exception of the eraser, that is... And the box, that is the exact same thing that STAEDTLER uses for the HEXAGONAL. The name LIFT+ comes from the concept that such a good mechpen will “lift” the user 🧚‍♂️. Okaaaayyyy…

I was really excited to get the LIFT+, specifically because of the construction and materials. And of course, it’s also really pleasant to the eye. I’m a total sucker for full-metal pencils, and this one geeked me out.

Why? Well, you have a brass grip connected to an aluminum body. When I heard that, I immediately thought “WTF, don’t they know what galvanic corrosion is?!?”. However, then I saw that Kitera didn’t fumble: there’s that chromed inner tube connecting both parts. Unless they used titanium, whatever metal they used would suffer galvanic corrosion with time, especially in a humid environment. Though a chromed metal tube is not the best solution possible, as long as the finish stays “chromed”, corrosion won’t be a problem. Moreover, the only part that could have an issue would be the aluminum body, since it’s screwed to the inner tube. The grip, since there’s that O-ring acting as a spacer, it doesn’t touch the metal, consequently no problem there. So, clever 😉. Right then and there I had a nerdgasm.

I’m a complete sucker for clever mechanical solutions, and Kitera certainly delivered. Well, of course, they could have just made the whole thing out of only one kind of metal, and then there would be zero risk of galvanic corrosion. Nonetheless, this thing looks VERY good, and just as important, it walks the walk and talks the talk. Excepting that sharp pocket clip, that is 😕. Even so, all in all, a GREAT mechpen – like my Top 3 best!