u/RefrigeratorLess9786

I read the different values on each tap in can capactor the get a single matching cap with equal or greater voltage and temp. Then set them as you see on a daughterboard, binding all grounds to a common ground post. Then run wiring to the appropiate terminal or junction of where that value capactor was in the circuit before. I find this way an efficient and orderly way to replace older multi-can capactors. The daughter board is attached to chassis by one or two small, "L" brackets.

Testing a .001 uf 6000v door knob capactor for leackage, both passed at least up to the 600v this IT-28 Capactor tester can run. Not the 2000 to 3000 volts that are possible in a SB-220 but it should be close enough if the "eye" does not close at 600v they should be good.

The old paper wound caps were replaced with new metal electrolitic caps, and bleed resister array which bleeds voltage off caps when unit is turned off. New metering board on the front of the power pack to feed readout meters on front panel. Older chokes and caps were removed from botyom grid circuit and the grid was grounded to chasis for better stability. A soft-key was built and added to the amp key up circuit to ne compatable with modern radios. Old coax and wiring replaced to higher temp and voltage rated material.

Rf choke replacement