u/SummitStaffer

Image 1 — Early 1860s Denim Paletot
Image 2 — Early 1860s Denim Paletot

Early 1860s Denim Paletot

This project has been on my bucket list for a while now, ever since I saw this denim frock coat and went down the rabbit hole of pre-Levi Strauss denim clothes. This was my first time making a coat, so I'm really happy it turned out so well!

Construction details:

  • Shell material: Medium-weight (~8oz) denim (Wrangler deadstock)
  • Lining: stiff cotton twill sew-in interfacing
  • Bone buttons
  • All seams are machine sewn, with hand-felling in visible areas (i.e. the skirts) and bias-bound or serged elsewhere
  • Pattern: automagically-drafted using Historical Tailoring Masterclasses' prototype pattern generator

While it ended up mostly fitting pretty well, the shoulders seem to be a bit broad. They go past the point of my shoulder on top, and there's a bit of bunching in the back. Any ideas how to fix this?

u/SummitStaffer — 11 days ago

Drafting Regency tailcoat collar

I'm working on drafting a Regency tailcoat. Unfortunately, none of the cutting guides I've been able to find have instructions on how to do the collar; they only cover the body of the coat.

(Also, any tips on drafting collars in general? The ones I've done in the past have always turned out horrible.)

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u/SummitStaffer — 1 month ago

Woodcarving chisel for buttonholes?

I haven't gotten around to buying a buttonhole chisel yet. On the other hand, I already have a bunch of woodcarving chisels that I never use. Can I use normal chisels when I make buttonholes, or is the specialty chisel a necessity?

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u/SummitStaffer — 4 months ago