🌿🌿 Aloe brevifolia, also known as the shortest-leaves Aloe or Crocodile Aloe, is a compact, blue-green succulent from South Africa 🇿🇦 that forms dense rosettes of thick, triangular leaves with characteristic spines and produce red or orange tubular flowers in late spring.
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Please leave a comment, as it would be great to hear your point of view on Aloe brevifolia . 🙂
Happy Gardening. 😊 👋🏻👋🏻 🌵🪴🌵
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Welcome to Parodia magnifica var. caespitosa is a visually striking, clustering cactus with blue-green bodies, short golden spines, and a bright yellow flower, ideal in a bright location but protected from the harsh midday sun, mainly during summer.
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Parodia magnifica var. caespitosa is a dwarf, clustering variant of Parodia magnifica distinguished primarily by smaller size, shorter spines, and a mat-forming growth habit, whereas Parodia magnifica is more of a solitary cactus, but with age will eventually forms pups at the base of the plant. In the pic above, I will put up a pic of the two varieties of the Parodia magnifica var caespitosa and Parodia magnifica, so you will know what to look for when you come across one.
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Please leave a comment, as it would be great to hear your point of view on Parodia magnifica var. caespitosa. 🙂
Like always, Happy Gardening! 😊 👍🏻👋🏻👋🏻🌵🪴🌵
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Curio articulatus (formerly known as Senecio articulatus). It is commonly referred to as the Candle Plant or Hot Dog Cactus.
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It won't be long before most of my plant will be going into dormancy, as I do have a few that are winter growers like this Senecio, as I do have a few of these in my collection.
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Please leave a comment, as it would be great to hear your point of view on Senecio reticulatus. 🙂
Happy Gardening! 😊 👋🏻👋🏻 🌵🪴🌵
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Not really sure how old this Lophophora williamsii var. caespitosa is, but I’d put it at 35-40 yrs old. I've had her since 2005, which makes 21 years under my care!
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The weather here is getting colder as autumn slowly comes to an end. This Lophophora.Williamsii var. caespitosa will go dormant during winter and won't be watered for the next few months. This Lophophora is growing outdoors and will get the occasional rain depending on which direction the rain is coming from, but I won't be watering it till next spring.
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Please leave a comment, as it would be great to hear your point of view on Lophophora williamsii var. caespitosa. 🙂
Like always, Happy Gardening! 😊 👍🏻👋🏻👋🏻🌵🪴🌵
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Pelargonium carnosum is a distinctive pachycaul succulent shrub native to the arid regions of South Africa and Namibia, prized for its thick, fleshy stems and intricate foliage.
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A great candidate to become bonsai, due to its naturally thickened stem and slow growth, it is a favourite for succulent collectors looking for "instant" bonsai subjects.
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Pelargonium carnosum is very easy to grow from seed and will produce that caudex base. They are also able to grow from cutting, but you won't get the swollen base from a cutting.
So when shopping for a Pelargonium carnosum, make sure that it is not a cutting if you're after that swollen base.
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Hope this information helps you when you go out and purchase a Pelargonium carnosum.
Please leave a comment, as it would be great to hear your point of view on the Pelargonium carnosum. 🙂
Happy Gardening! 😊 👋🏻👋🏻 🌵🪴🌵
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Here is a cutting that I grew from my 21-year-old Euphorbia enopla. This plant is about 4 years old. In this short video, you'll see the mother plant; with my hand next to it, you get an idea of just how big it is.
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I find that this E. enopla is more compact compared to some of my other E. enopla specimens. I have a number of them that grow more like a tree, whereas this one grows in a more compact form, as shown by the mature plant.
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Please leave a comment, as it would be great to hear your thoughts on Euphorbia enopla! 🙂
Happy Gardening! 😊 👋🏻👋🏻 🌵🪴🌵
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Sedum adolphii, commonly known as Golden Sedum or Adolph's Sedum, is a versatile, sun-loving succulent originating from Mexico. It is highly prized by collectors for its thick, lance-shaped leaves and its ability to shift colours dramatically based on its environment.
The Secret Behind the Colour
The "magnificent" orange, red, and golden hues aren't just permanent trait—they are a physiological response to environmental factors. Here is how that transformation happens:
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Environmental "Stress": The most vibrant colours are actually a defence mechanism. When the plant is exposed to intense sunlight, lean soil, or cold temperatures, it produces protective pigments called anthocyanins and carotenoids.
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Sunlight Intensity: In low light, the plant will remain a soft lime green. To achieve those deep coppers and bright yellows, the plant requires several hours of direct, bright sun daily.
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Temperature Fluctuations: Dramatic shifts between warm days and cool nights (common in autumn) act as a catalyst, deepening the red margins on the leaf edges.
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Water Regulation: Keeping the plant slightly "thirsty" (the "soak and dry" method) encourages the leaves to maintain their compact shape and intense colouration rather than turning lush and green.
Growth Habit and Care
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Form: It is a low-growing, rambling succulent. Over time, its stems can become woody and trail over the edges of pots, making it an excellent choice for hanging baskets or as a groundcover in rockeries.
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Hardiness: Like many Mexican Sedums, it is quite hardy but prefers to be kept dry during the peak of winter to avoid root rot.
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PThe Science of the "Stress" Glow: Sedum adolphiiropagation: It is incredibly prolific. A single leaf dropped on top of well-draining soil will often sprout a new rosette with very little effort.
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I’ve been spending some time admiring the shift in my Sedum adolphii lately. It’s amazing how these plants go from a standard lime green to these deep, fiery oranges and golds just by tweaking their environment.
For those new to the species, that "magnificent"colour is all about anthocyanins—the same pigments that give blueberries their colour or turn leaves red in the autumn. By giving them plenty of direct sun and being "cruel to be kind" with the watering can, you trigger a stress response that brings out those sunset hues.
It’s a hardy grower and great for trailing over the side of a container. Plus, they are incredibly easy to propagate from leaf or stem cuttings if you’re looking to fill out a garden bed.
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How are your Golden Sedums looking this season? Are you getting more of the yellow-gold or the deep copper-red? 🙂
Happy Gardening! 😊 👋🏻👋🏻 🌵🪴🌵
Here is this absolutely gorgeous Zonal Geranium (Pelargonium x hortorum) in flower. :) 🤩🪴🪴
I was given this cutting that I received over a yr ago, of a Geranium hybrid, as it is a member of the Pelargonium family. I really love the vibrant colour of it flowers. They look gorgeous. These are widely grown in Italy on window ledges and balconies of Italian residents, and also in Venice and Sicily. They are very hardly succulent and come in a variety of different colours, more so with the hybrid variety that are out in the market.
They definitely love the warmer conditions, but you can grow them indoors, as long as they get adequate sunlight.
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While a geranium is not technically a true succulent, it shares a similar growing habit by storing moisture in its thick, fleshy stems to survive periods of drought.
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Please leave a comment, as it would be great to hear your point of view on Zonal Geranium (Pelargonium × hortorum). 🙂
Happy Gardening! 😊 👋🏻👋🏻 🌵🪴🌵
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Here is a collection of Graptopetalum cuttings that I received from u/HomeForABookLover in Scotland 🏴. These Graptopetalums think it’s spring because they were in the process of flowering! I didn't have the heart to cut the flowering spikes off, even though it can take a lot longer for the plants to get established that way. When I received these a month ago, they had lost their healthy bluish-green look, but after a month, they have regained their colour and are starting to flower. As you can see, that Graptopetalum ('Lincoln Star') has one of its buds finally flowering, and I'm looking forward to seeing the others bloom as well. Also, some of the leaves that fell off during transit are starting to grow, too. They are looking a lot healthier, as they seem to like the warm autumn temperatures we are having—especially since it won't be long before the temperatures start to drop. I'm hoping the one about to flower will open soon so we can see the colour of the flowers for this species.
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I have also included some of my juvenile Echeverias in this post—especially my Echeveria secunda, which produced a crested pup that I have since removed and grown on its own.
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I look forward to seeing the Graptopetalum fully in flower! 🤩👋🏻
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I'd like to give a big shout-out to u/HomeForABookLover for the great gift of Graptopetalum and, once again, for his support and contributions toward this sub and for showing all of us his amazing collection. 😊👋🏻👍🏻
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Thank you all for your support in keeping this sub alive with your amazing plants and feedback.
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Please leave a comment; it would be great to hear your thoughts on Graptopetalum and Echeveria secunda f. cristata. 🙂
Happy Gardening! 😊 👋🏻👋🏻 🌵🪴🌵
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Out of all my Parodias, this Parodia ottonis subsp. horstii seems to flower 9 months of the year. Now, with her pups being old enough, they are flowering as well. During summer, I cross-pollinate Parodia erinacea with this one, as I like to see what the plant will turn out like and what colour flowers it will have, as Parodia erinacea has a yellow flower.
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All my other Parodias have stopped flowering, whereas Parodia erinacea is pushing her seed pods up. Unfortunately, there must have been a rat, and it ate all the seed pods on all my P. erinacea bar one. The main thing is that the rat only ate the seed pods and not the plant.
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This Parodia ottonis subsp. horstii has been in my collection since 2005 and has grown considerably in the last couple of years. It is quite easy to grow, as long as you keep it out of temperatures below 32°F or 0°C and remember they are not frost hardy.
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This plant has been growing outdoors for most of its life, but where it is situated, it's fairly sheltered. You can see in the pics that she is growing towards one side to get the full absorption of the sun, as she only gets sun from 11 a. until sunset. It definitely can tolerate full sun.
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Please leave a comment, as it would be nice to hear your point of view on Parodia ottonis subsp. horstii. 🙂
Like always, happy gardening! 😊🇦🇺👍🏻👋🏻👋🏻 🌵🪴🌵
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Here is a bonus raffle for another person to win a portion of the seeds that I sent to my good friend u/gbsrobv in California, and a few months ago, Rob mentioned that we do another raffle and give another chance to the people who were all really in that first raffle.
The winner is u/Aggressive-Slide-988
Congratulations, my friend, as these seeds will keep you busy.
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U/gbsrobv still has plenty of seeds available if you're interested.
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So if you're interested, please contact u/gbsrobv, who lives in California, which will make it easier and cheaper for you to purchase. l'm not 100% sure of the shipping cost, but Rod will inform you of the cost. if you're not happy with the seeds being sent by padded envelope, there is the other option that the seeds can be sent by the flappack package.
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I liked to inform the people who live in Australia who are interested in the seeds that some of the seeds that are available in the States won't be available here in Australia.
Please let me know which seeds you're interested in, and I will let you know which are available. 👍🏻
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Here is the price list for each plant species and also the limit on certain seeds, as I would like everyone to get to purchase them.
Genus & Species Common Name Total Available Price (USA) Limit
Aloe barbareae Tree Aloe 200 $0.60 each - No limit
Cleistocactus ritteri - 200 $5.10 / 20 seeds - No limit
Cleistocactus strausii Silver Torch 400 $5.10 / 20 seeds - No limit
Dioscorea elephantipes Elephant's Foot 800 $0.50 each - No limit
Echinopsis scheckindantzii - 300 $5.10 / 20 seeds - No limit
Echinopsis formosa var. rosarioana x tarijensis Hybrid 400 $5.10 / 20 seeds - No limit
Echinopsis hybrid "Saureri" 400 $5.10 / 20 seeds - No limit
Echinopsis oxygona Hybrid - 300 $5.10 / 20 seeds - No limit
Echinopsis tarijensis - 400 $5.10 / 20 seeds - No limit
Epithelantha micromeris Button Cactus 175 $0.85 each - No limit
Euphorbia schoenlandii - 100 $2.20 each Max limit 6
Lophophora williamsii var. caespitosa - 116 $0.90 each Max limit 6
Pelargonium carnosum - 55 $0.70 each Max limit 5
Sinningia leucotricha Brazilian Edelweiss 200 $0.50 each -No limit
Trichocereus bridgesii Bolivian Torch 500 $5.10 / 20 seeds - No limit
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If anyone is still interested in seeds and lives in the States, contact Rob u/gbsrobv.
Thank you , and as always, Happy Gardening! 😊👋🏻👍🏻👋🏻🌵🪴🌵
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Here is my Faucaria felina subsp. britteniae and some other hybrid that are starting to flower, as they are autumn 🍂 flowering succulent. In the video, you will see my 21yro Faucaria felina subsp. britteniae and some juvenile hybrid that I grew from seed, also have a 21yro Faucaria tigrina that about to flower that is not in the video.
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Faucaria britteniae: The leaves are generally broader and more robust, often described as "chunky." The leaf surfaces are relatively smooth and typically lack the dense white spotting found in other species. They often take on a bluish-green or glaucous hue.
Faucaria tigrina: The leaves are more triangular and tapered. A defining feature of F. tigrina is the presence of numerous, prominent white dots (tubercles) on the leaf surface, giving it a rougher, more speckled appearance.Faucaria felina subsp. britteniae
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Faucaria felina subsp. britteniae is quite easy to grow from seed or cuttings. The seed pods dry up and only disperse their seeds when rain falls; the water triggers the pod to open, and as droplets hit the interior, the seeds are splashed out onto the ground. You can mimic this by spraying the pod with water, or you can simply crack the pod open manually to extract the seeds.
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For Faucaria felina subsp. britteniae, you can generally expect germination to occur within 7 to 14 days when provided with the right environmental conditions. Some stubborn seeds may take up to 21 days, but the bulk of the activity usually happens in the second week.
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Temperature:
They prefer a "goldilocks" range. Aim for daytime temperatures around 20°C to 25°C (68°F–77°F). If it gets much hotter than 30°C, the seeds may go dormant rather than sprout.
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Light:
The seeds are very small and respond well to light for germination. Sow them on the surface of a well-draining gritty mix and cover them with only a very thin layer of fine sand or vermiculite—just enough to keep them from washing away.
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Humidity:
High humidity is crucial during the first few days. Using a "baggy method" or a propagator lid helps maintain moisture. Once the green specks appear, start to introduce fresh air gradually to prevent rot.
Like always, Happy Gardening! 😊🇦🇺👍🏻👋🏻👋🏻🪴🌵🪴