Chemist here — here’s how to actually build your first skincare formula from scratch (India-specific)
I have a Masters in Chemistry and a background in pharmaceutical production. I’ve spent the last year going deep into cosmetic formulation and wanted to share a practical starting point for anyone wanting to formulate their own skincare.
Most beginner formulation content online is either too vague or written for a Western audience. This is specifically for Indian formulators.
Before you pick a single ingredient, answer these four questions:
What do I want this product to do?
What texture do I want — gel, lotion, cream, oil?
What systems do I need — hydration, lipids, structure, preservation?
What are my constraints — pH, cost, skin sensitivity?
Only after that do you choose ingredients. Formulation is engineering, not mixing nice things together.
The simplest formula a beginner can actually make:
A basic hydrating gel requires no emulsification, no oil phase, and no heating of two separate phases. Here’s a starting structure:
Water — base
Glycerin 4% — humectant, draws water into skin
Panthenol 2% — barrier support, soothing
Niacinamide 4% — multi-benefit active
Carbomer 0.3% — gives the gel its texture
Neutraliser — to bring pH to around 5.5
Preservative 1% — non-negotiable in any water-based formula
That’s it. Seven ingredients, no special equipment beyond a scale and a pH meter, and a genuinely effective product.
The mistake almost every beginner makes:
Skipping or underestimating preservation. Any formula containing water will grow bacteria, yeast, and mould without a proper preservative system. “Natural” does not mean preserved. A contaminated product can cause serious skin infections.
Where to source ingredients in India:
Skip general chemical suppliers for anything going on skin. Look specifically for cosmetic-grade suppliers who can provide a Certificate of Analysis (COA) with every ingredient. Mumbai has the largest cluster of cosmetic raw material distributors. Several online platforms now serve indie formulators with small minimum order quantities.
I’ve put together a full guide covering formulation, safety, sourcing in India, regulation, and how to turn a formula into a sellable product. Happy to answer questions in the comments.