u/creysi_

I’m the guy from yesterday’s post.
I desoldered it a couple of times without damaging anything, but no luck. Still getting 3 orange LEDs.
There’s no continuity between the various pins. The solder joint looks very shiny right after I make it, but when I use alcohol to remove the flux, it turns dull.

Today the controller started behaving differently: two lights with the battery connected, 3 lights without the battery, it was being recognized by the PC and then disconnecting after 8 seconds, it was being recognized and drifting automatically (with the L1 button acting as if it was permanently pressed), and now it only shows 3 LEDs, with or without the battery.

At this point I have no idea what else to try.
Sure, I should probably take it to someone who does this professionally, and that’s fine, but as a matter of principle (and to improve my skills) I’d really like to understand what’s actually wrong.

Hello everyone.
Today I replaced the sticks on my controller. The soldering was done good imo and everything was clean.

Once I closed the shell, the L2 button stopped working and L1 stayed “stuck” as if it was always being pressed.
I opened it again, reconnected the ribbon cables, and closed it once more. From that moment, it works fine for 10–15 seconds, then it starts acting like you can see in the video.

I tried opening it again and thoroughly cleaning all the contacts and ribbon cable traces with isopropyl alcohol, but nothing changed.

I also have an “Extremerate Rise4” kit installed on this controller, and it has never caused any issues for more than a year.

What could this be? I can take a picture of the stick soldering if needed, but I don’t understand how it could affect the back buttons!

Thanks to anyone who can help me