I've spent years working with Lucknowi Chikankari and Zardozi embroidery — happy to answer questions about these techniques for anyone designing with Indian crafts
I work at a small embroidery atelier in India that focuses entirely on traditional hand embroidery — Lucknowi Chikankari, Zardozi, and Mukaish work — applied to garments like Abayas, Kaftans, and Jalabiyas.
I've noticed these techniques don't get much discussion in fashion design communities despite being genuinely extraordinary — Zardozi is raised gold threadwork that originated in Persia, and a single panel can take a craftsman weeks. Chikankari is shadow-work embroidery where the design only becomes visible when held to light.
A few things I find fascinating from a design standpoint:
— Fabric choice completely changes how embroidery reads. The same Chikankari pattern on mul mul cotton looks delicate and airy; on silk organza, mulmul cotton it becomes architectural.
— Mukaish (tiny metallic dots hammered into fabric) creates a texture that photographs almost like sequins but moves completely differently on the body.
— Zardozi is one of the few embroidery forms where the weight of the thread itself becomes a design element — you can build sculptural relief.
I've been thinking about how little Western fashion education covers these crafts despite their enormous influence on global embroidery traditions.
Anyone here working with Indian embroidery techniques or incorporating them into contemporary design? Curious what challenges people face sourcing or adapting them.