Is 1/2" puzzle mat under grizzly grass on top of a plywood floor enough to minimize bounce back or should I also have a layer of rigid foam board? I have a Carl's Place hitting mat that will sit on top of it all so not worried about the stance or ball strike.
I built a 14 x 26 sim shed with a high vaulted ceiling. All of the walls and ceiling are sheetrock and the echo is loud. I am going to put sound absorbing panels on the side walls (Rockwool wrapped in fabric) but wondering if anyone has ideas for the ceiling? Gemini suggests hanging a heavy canvas tarp in swags from the collar ties. Thoughts? TIA.
Had a shed delivered to be used as a gym/hang out space. Trying to figure out the most cost effective interior finish that I can DIY. Got a bid for sheetrock to level 4 finish for $7,000 and that's just not in the budget (14x26 with a 10'12 vaulted ceiling).
My wife and I would be doing it so full sheets of plywood on the ceiling is not really an option. Any other ideas welcome.
Andrew asks Roger Ferguson a question, and Joe answers it. Why bother having a guest on?
r
I am relatively new to horses (married into a horse family) and am just getting into the weeds. We have 3 QH's, a mare and 2 geldings. One of the geldings seems really small with a swayback (he's 26ish) but has high withers, and the other (4 yo) is broad-shouldered, with a straight topline and seems quite substantial. The second one looks way bigger (both on and off his back), but we put a stick on them both, and they are the exact same height (14.3 hands).
So I guess my question is, "why do we measure to the highest point of the withers instead of somewhere else?" It seems like that measurement is misleading for the most part. Am I missing something?
This might be well known or I might just be making it up, but it seems like draft horses and draft crosses are more personable and curious than other breeds (in general of course)?
It seems like there are several different beliefs on the correct timing and order of operations for cutting, tedding, raking and baling small squares for horses. Using the optimal 4-day stretch which is rare in New England, we have historically cut on day 1, keeping the mower baffles close together to make tight rows, minimizing the hay that is in contact with the ground, tedded on days 2 and 3, windrows after the dew dries on day 4, and then bale.
I have just been elevated to running the operation and I have looked into other ideas including tedding on day 1 right after cutting, tedding 2x on day 2 (or 1x on day 2 and 1x on the morning of day 3, putting it into windrows the afternoon of day 3 and then if the ground is at all wet, rolling the windrows the morning of day 4 before baling.
What is your preferred schedule?
Building a 14 x 26 shed with a 12:12 pitch (so a lot of volume). Going to have it spray foamed. Trying to figure out best (and most affordable - both up front and operating) heating source as my budget is nearing its max. I want to keep it around 50* and then bump it to 60 when we are using it. Won’t use it much in the summer. Thinking about a direct vent like a rinnai vs. a mini split. Thoughts?
Due to some bruising, the vet suggested pasture rest and that we get a full set of Easyboot Clouds for our new horse, who it turns out has thin soles and steep angles. I measured for the boots and ordered size 1. The boots fit the hind feet but not the front, so I returned two and got size 2s. Unfortunately, these are too big and he keeps throwing them. Is there any way to shim the boots to make them snug, or am I out of luck? TIA
I went out to feed the horses today and found the back 1/2 of a fawn today in the paddock. Any thoughts on what predator would not only take the fawn but cut it clean in 1/2 and leave the back end? We are in Vermont. I have read maybe Black Bear, Coyote or even possibly a Fisher Cat. Just want to make sure whatever it is won't attack the horses.
Edit: I have a pic but not sure if I should post it.
The asphalt pad under the stable overhang has been neglected for years. I would like to figure out a way to patch it and fill the potholes. I know the right thing to do is have a paving company come in and redo the whole thing but that is not in the budget right now. Any ideas would be welcome.
I have two different opinions coming at me as a new rider about the best way to turn my horse and it seems Youtube is also conflicted.
Let's say I am going counter-clockwise deep into the corner of the ring and want to turn to the left. One trainer (younger if that matters) says pressure on the outside (right) leg and light pressure on the left rein. Another trainer (been riding for 86 YEARS) says pull the left rein just enough to see his eye and put pressure on the left leg - essentially pivoting around that leg. Thoughts?
Very good interview with Hochstein this AM. Handled Joe's fantasy scenario deftly.
