I didn't have to manipulate anything here, it all just happened to line up perfectly. The BPM for KITT's sweep, the plane explosion, the key change for McPherson's intro, etc.
It works and I’ll get the cables cleaned up, but I wish it wasn’t necessary.
For context: wired to wireless CarPlay adapters work, but the problem is the only wired CarPlay USB port will stay powered for long after you turn the car off, and your phone will remain connected, playing music etc during that time, even when the car is off. The solution is:
- Wireless CarPlay adapter itself
- USB power splitter, one side is data+power, one is power only. These were mostly used for USB CDROM drives which needed more current back when the official limit was 500mA per port.
- Power stripper adapter on the USB CarPlay side, so it won’t get powered by that port.
- Power only side going to the cigarette adapter, which is not continually powered.
I’ve had this 8 gallon air compressor for 12 years. For most of its life it was only used once per year, but for the last 3 years it’s gotten regular but infrequent use. No hours counter, but let’s say 200 fills at about 1 minute per fill. Never had a problem with it. I check the drain about once per year for water but find almost nothing (I live in the desert).
Oil looks fine (it’s darker in that photo than IRL), a little overfilled, doesn’t leak. Is there any argument to actually changing the oil vs waiting a century for it to reach ~100 hours runtime?
I just came from owning a Ford Maverick hybrid, and [edit: removed subreddit] has a tongue in cheek meme to counteract the Maverick not being a “real truck” because it has a 4.5 foot bed and the towing capacity of a RAV4 (2000 lbs). People will post pics of their Maverick hauling and towing, with the caption “doin’ truck stuff”.
Anyway, I installed the hitch a few days ago and it tows very well. Just looks a little silly having a midsized hatchback towing a full utility trailer.
Edit: Removed mention of the other subreddit, as I cross-posted it there and was met with downvotes and mocking. Live and learn. OTOH, this community has been very welcoming, so thank you!
2024 SEL. Straightforward but rather difficult, took me about 4 hours beginning to end. The hitch is almost double the price of the Curt, but the extra height clearance is worth it. Wiring kit is the OEM one which is also double the price of the Curt one, but much easier to install (only needs to disassemble the driver side and no running 12v to the battery) and integrates with the onboard trailer detection.
I have an EV charger which reports session kWh. When you plug it in, it goes down to zero, counts up, then stays at the high mark until the next charge session begins.
An issue is it's only reported periodically, so HA will never see it as exactly zero. It could be at 10.0 kWh from the previous day, and today when it begins, HA will see it go down from 10.0 to 0.2, then 0.5, then 0.8, etc.
I set up a Utility Meter helper with "Periodically resetting" to track this in Energy. It mostly works, but it seems it discards the first value it sees after a reset. In the above example, if the helper entity is at 25.0, it will see the reset but do nothing for the first report, then go to 25.3, then 25.6, etc. The initial 0.2 is lost.
Is there any way to get the helper entity to trust an update which has lowered to actually be a true reset from zero, and to include the full value?
I bought a used 2024 Ioniq 5 a few weeks ago, and it only came with one fob, which I just found out means I can't program an NFC card (need 2 complete keys). I've ordered a replacement 95440-GI020 fob with emergency key insert blank.
Every site says the same thing: you must go to a qualified locksmith (or the dealer if you want to pay double) to get it programmed and cut with specialized tools. I accept that part and will go shopping at locksmiths when the hardware arrives, but I'm more curious about what the actual procedure they're doing is. Anyone know of documentation or training videos online?