u/gingernuts13

AEB-L with acid etch and stone wash finish. Cherry handle body and Katalox ferrule.

61 HRC
155mm blade length
55mm height heel to spine
1.8mm thick spine above the heel
0.55mm above the tip
0.25mm behind the edge
Primary edge angle ~15°
Handle length 120mm
Total length ~280mm

AEB-L stainless with acid etch and stone wash finish. Cherry handle body and Katalox ferrule.

61 HRC
155mm blade length
55mm height heel to spine
1.8mm thick spine above the heel
0.55mm above the tip
0.25mm behind the edge
Primary edge angle ~15°
Handle length 120mm
Total length ~280mm

Using the same PVC tube, but made a larger adapter to act like a 6.5" tube and also switched to ceramic media. Lastly, played with VFD settings and can run down to 1.5hz now which also made a huge difference on the ability of media to make a bit more aggressive contact with the metal

I also switched to a slack belt setup and slightly angled it forward. This also seemed to get better bite using a worn 400 grit alum oxide belt. Ended result is the equivalent of a 6.5" tube but only need 3" worth of media to fill adequately

Actually it works fine, but with enough stoneto make the finish work means the motor has to spin too fast and centripetal force takes over and doesnt do anything, and less media has no impact. So next step is to come up with a 3d printed collar to turn the center of the 3" PVC into a 7" PVC so i can double the motor speed and handle the resistance of a heavier tube to rotate without actually increasing tube rotation. And if that doesn't work I'll just make a drill attachment

I’ve been designing a tall bunka from scratch and have been testing the blade and handle geometry with CAD and 3D-printed mockups.

Current concept:

• ~180 mm / just over 7" edge
• ~63 mm / 2.5" tall
• 1/16" AEB-L
• K-tip
• Traditional straight octagonal Wa handle
• Slight downward handle cant
  • 2° gives about a 3.5mm drop on a 4.5" handle
• Shallow continuous belly rather than a long dead-flat section

The grip is a little unusual. I use an index-finger pinch, but choke up high on the spine in something closer to a Chinese Y-grip. My middle finger sits in the reverse-curved choil, so I kept the effective neck fairly short to let the handle follow the hand forward. It also engages the fingers faster on upward motions and I get more feedback and response on rocking motions.

The goal is basically a tall laser bunka with some Chinese chef-knife influence: lots of board clearance and scooping area, but still light, thin and useful for tip work.

And just to get a bit of a jumpstart on the potential self-deprecation I've already named it the "Brokeback Bunka"

This is the thinnest stock I've worked and appareny don't have a thin enough drill bit or saw that maintains good runout. After initial glue up or final glue up what are my options to fill this gap and make it look either intentional or presentable/hide it?

I got my first 36 grit belts and they are awesome, but I notice after the first run how badly cracked and chippy the grit is along with some edge disintegration. These were used on a taller knife that was already profiled 75% of the way and used to thin out a bit more so definitely nothing aggressive like breaking corners or anything.

Do the higher grit belts all do this or is this just because it was an economy belt I purchased? That being said, it was 1/4 the cost of some others like Nortons, 3M, or even some VSM belts

Largest Japanese style knife I've made yet. 210 Gyuto and 2mm spine thickness above the heel and tapers down to 0.8mm above the tip. Edge was ground to near 0 and has a convex style grind. Steel is 8670 at around a 80 hrc - so a bit softer but a few plans for aeb-l stainless in the future at around a 61

Handle is a Cocobolo ferrule with Cherry body.

I used .02 321 stainless foil and did a double fold on 3 edges and used a rounded hammer to hammer out and ran down folds each time for both knives.

On a related note, can you reuse the envelopes if they didn't stick together and an edge spread cleanly?

Up until now I've been using Harbor Freight hammers and modifying some to make my own peening and rounding hammers. At the price and regard this seems somewhat compelling as an option with a bit of face dressing so curious if anybody actually uses one for blacksmithing or bladesmithing and how you like it?

Has all hardware and jaws/threading good and decent alignment.

I did a trade with somebody for a "newer" version 88lb Hay Budden which I loved but frankly never used and always felt bad when it stared at me from across the garage. Up until then I had 2 Hay Budden's and 1 ACME (Trenton) so when the opportunity to trade for this Fischer came up I went for it. Completely different sound but it is easily the best rebound off all my 4 anvils now and edges look great considering.

I feel even at a lighter weight it's different enough now I can justify to keep it regardless of use since it gives me 3 distinct anvils from 3 different major manufacturers of US anvils. The other thing is the smaller HB needed its own stand, but this one is really close to my mid-weight I built a stand around so my 1 adjustable stand can be used for all 3 anvils if I wish since space is my limiting factor at the moment.

Found an NC Tool 2 burner forge online hardly used. Was going to be building my own upgrade soon but saw this for about what I expected to spend in materials so couldn't resist. It's hardly used so I'm going to stabalize the ceramic blanket doors then give the interior a coat of my homemade itc-100 and run her! Thay spark ignition system is so much nicer than the "torch flinch" as i call it