One thing I'm not sure about is the number 42 is clearly visible and then below it maybe something like a 55 or F5 or FE something along those lines if any of it makes sense
Most likely circa late 1800s - early 1900s. 2" jaw length and officially the smallest vise I own now. Might clamp it to my 120lb Peter Wright leg vise just so it feels like a big boy for a minute.
8670 karamit-ish knife with canvas micarta handle. Acid and stone washed and between that and my fit-up skills already looks like it's gone to way lol
With the push on Scorecard+ i feel employees should get a courtesy one. I had a customer ask me if I had it and whether it was good and was honest and said "seems like a good deal if you shop here regularly" and when pushed whether i actually had it replied a simple no.
Hell, even take away the 3mos $25 coupon and I'd be happy with out discount and free shipping on smaller orders
AEB-L with acid etch and stone wash finish. Cherry handle body and Katalox ferrule.
61 HRC
155mm blade length
55mm height heel to spine
1.8mm thick spine above the heel
0.55mm above the tip
0.25mm behind the edge
Primary edge angle ~15°
Handle length 120mm
Total length ~280mm
AEB-L stainless with acid etch and stone wash finish. Cherry handle body and Katalox ferrule.
61 HRC
155mm blade length
55mm height heel to spine
1.8mm thick spine above the heel
0.55mm above the tip
0.25mm behind the edge
Primary edge angle ~15°
Handle length 120mm
Total length ~280mm
Using the same PVC tube, but made a larger adapter to act like a 6.5" tube and also switched to ceramic media. Lastly, played with VFD settings and can run down to 1.5hz now which also made a huge difference on the ability of media to make a bit more aggressive contact with the metal
I also switched to a slack belt setup and slightly angled it forward. This also seemed to get better bite using a worn 400 grit alum oxide belt. Ended result is the equivalent of a 6.5" tube but only need 3" worth of media to fill adequately
Actually it works fine, but with enough stoneto make the finish work means the motor has to spin too fast and centripetal force takes over and doesnt do anything, and less media has no impact. So next step is to come up with a 3d printed collar to turn the center of the 3" PVC into a 7" PVC so i can double the motor speed and handle the resistance of a heavier tube to rotate without actually increasing tube rotation. And if that doesn't work I'll just make a drill attachment
I’ve been designing a tall bunka from scratch and have been testing the blade and handle geometry with CAD and 3D-printed mockups.
Current concept:
The grip is a little unusual. I use an index-finger pinch, but choke up high on the spine in something closer to a Chinese Y-grip. My middle finger sits in the reverse-curved choil, so I kept the effective neck fairly short to let the handle follow the hand forward. It also engages the fingers faster on upward motions and I get more feedback and response on rocking motions.
The goal is basically a tall laser bunka with some Chinese chef-knife influence: lots of board clearance and scooping area, but still light, thin and useful for tip work.
And just to get a bit of a jumpstart on the potential self-deprecation I've already named it the "Brokeback Bunka"
The traditional Wa handle seems to fall around the 14-16mm range or about 3/4 of the middle finger.
On the other hand many knives with an integral bolster forged in align with the heel vertically and many western style handles do the same or even pass the vertical line of the heel.
I feel closer is better than too far or else with my small to medium size hands I'm really "reaching" to pinch the spine and have no support inside the palms. Conversely though for some cheap production knives like a Dexter i have it passes the vertical heel line and is thick and I can't hardly reach over it so I'm really torn on preference as i try to picture my perfect knife.
One of my favorites is a cheap Chinese chefs knife with a traditional short and round handle that has a brass bolster with a shallow angle and in line with the heel but I'm trying to picture how that would play out with a shorter knife or "lower" knife like a Bunka
This is the thinnest stock I've worked and appareny don't have a thin enough drill bit or saw that maintains good runout. After initial glue up or final glue up what are my options to fill this gap and make it look either intentional or presentable/hide it?
I got my first 36 grit belts and they are awesome, but I notice after the first run how badly cracked and chippy the grit is along with some edge disintegration. These were used on a taller knife that was already profiled 75% of the way and used to thin out a bit more so definitely nothing aggressive like breaking corners or anything.
Do the higher grit belts all do this or is this just because it was an economy belt I purchased? That being said, it was 1/4 the cost of some others like Nortons, 3M, or even some VSM belts
Largest Japanese style knife I've made yet. 210 Gyuto and 2mm spine thickness above the heel and tapers down to 0.8mm above the tip. Edge was ground to near 0 and has a convex style grind. Steel is 8670 at around a 80 hrc - so a bit softer but a few plans for aeb-l stainless in the future at around a 61
Handle is a Cocobolo ferrule with Cherry body.
I used .02 321 stainless foil and did a double fold on 3 edges and used a rounded hammer to hammer out and ran down folds each time for both knives.
On a related note, can you reuse the envelopes if they didn't stick together and an edge spread cleanly?
I am looking to do my first small batch of 2-3 aeb-l knife blanks and wondering if after individually tool wrapping them, do I allow all to go in together for a soak and then pull 1 at a time, or just soak 1 knife at a time and plate quench, then put in the next knife for its own individual soak?
Concern is primarily allowing for grain growth by the 3rd knife as it would theoretically have 3x the required soak time which I am planning on about 10 minutes at 1950°F for the aeb-l with deep freezer quench based on Larrin Thomas
Up until now I've been using Harbor Freight hammers and modifying some to make my own peening and rounding hammers. At the price and regard this seems somewhat compelling as an option with a bit of face dressing so curious if anybody actually uses one for blacksmithing or bladesmithing and how you like it?
Has all hardware and jaws/threading good and decent alignment.