u/gingernuts13

Timestamp & Photos: https://imgur.com/a/lNfZgBG

Kershaw Iridium D2 and Kershaw Iridium Mini D1 - $110 Shipped CONUS. Shipping would be USPS ground advantage and carry the automatic $100 insurance value

Trying to sell both together. The "full size" Iridium is brand new in the box. I opened it up to verify blade and take photos. The Mini is technically used as I carried it a couple days and used it as a fidget toy, but don't even remember cutting cardboard or paper with it but don't want to advertise as new since I don't have box anymore and know it was in my pocket.

I would separate, but not sure if it would be worth it at that point with shipping so attempting to keep them together and their adoptive family can raise them together!

Videos of rebound test/sound test and showing the "grit" compacting easier than sand. She rings like a doorbell so this is an improvement, and frankly I like that bit of brightness - gives me some nostalgia and nothing a pair of earplugs don't fix

Yeah I know sandbox stands are already adjustable but I wanted a tripod stand and to also use a small "box" with crushed stone/decomp granite type material so here is the test fit. The anvil is a 1907 205lb Hay Budden and compacts beautifully. I will still put some sort of tie down around the waist so I can more easily walk it around the floor a bit and also drill out a few holes on the legs so they are telescopic.

I have an ACME 148lb anvil with about a 1.5" height difference and a couple smaller anvils that would work too, but I feel the stone gives it near 100% surface contact and actually added some rebound back into the ol' girl. With just some hand shifting it packs quick, so I will run on the assumption some longer sessions will really solidify it down. And when I want to switch anvils I can just level the bed out and customize depth, then shift it and pack out again.

So instead of relying 100% on telescoping legs which I feared had the drawback of becoming less supported the more extended they are, I can make 4-5" of adjustment at the legs and still maintain 6" or more of insertion length using 1/4" tube, and have another 4" in the sandbox so everything from my 65lb Doyle to the 205lb HB can be used on one stand and still get my working height desired without having to bury an anvil completely in sand.

Videos of rebound test/sound test and showing the "grit" compacting easier than sand. She rings like a doorbell so this is an improvement, and frankly I like that bit of brightness - gives me some nostalgia and nothing a pair of earplugs don't fix

Yeah I know sandbox stands are already adjustable but I wanted a tripod stand and to also use a small "box" with crushed stone/decomp granite type material so here is the test fit. The anvil is a 1907 205lb Hay Budden and compacts beautifully. I will still put some sort of tie down around the waist so I can more easily walk it around the floor a bit and also drill out a few holes on the legs so they are telescopic.

I have an ACME 148lb anvil with about a 1.5" height difference and a couple smaller anvils that would work too, but I feel the stone gives it near 100% surface contact and actually added some rebound back into the ol' girl. With just some hand shifting it packs quick, so I will run on the assumption some longer sessions will really solidify it down. And when I want to switch anvils I can just level the bed out and customize depth, then shift it and pack out again.

So instead of relying 100% on telescoping legs which I feared had the drawback of becoming less supported the more extended they are, I can make 4-5" of adjustment at the legs and still maintain 6" or more of insertion length using 1/4" tube, and have another 4" in the sandbox so everything from my 65lb Doyle to the 205lb HB can be used on one stand and still get my working height desired without having to bury an anvil completely in sand.

I have 3 anvils I want to be able to potentially use on 1 stand, but they have a 5" height difference across them. Nothing here is new, but hopefully I'm combining the best of all stands and not the worst lol. The legs are telescoping using 2" and 1.5" 1/4 wall square tube that will get a few adjustment holes drilled in when done and using grade 8 hardware or hitch pin. The receiver tubes are 12" long so even with 6" insertion length I have 6" adjustment there comfortably.

The box on top is my take on a sandbox style stand, but is 4" deep to house a bag of decomp granite. The frame is just big enough for my largest anvil to prevent walking, so I might still need an additional hold down for the other 2, but this gives me another 4" of adjustability if I need to, and the decomp granite packs down firmer than sand. Since all of my anvil bases have a recessed out section in the bottom, that should provide some support from sheer forces and prevent that sideways walking potentially.

If the sandbox doesn't end up working out, plan be is to just use 4x4 blocks or something and go 4" wood base I can either interchange per anvil basically making a stump stand which has plenty of commercially produced designs so I'm not worried there for a plan B

I need to upgrade from my 2x2 which is currently like the right style. I like the idea of the thicker and more protected molded inners, but I could benefit from additional pockets so those soft cases are half the price and almost double the storage. My concern is I use the case as storage as well so if the kids or somebody threw something against it in a closet would they be as protected? I have a mix of wood and CF shafts

Has all 4 common tip profiles. Just needs some adhesive of some sort and sand paper and can reference and shape tips easily. I thought this was an awesome design so was the first thing I printed tonight after the benchmark print

So I know edges need to be dressed, and I did my new Doyle when I bought it and it's been fine. Since I just acquired my first 2 "antique" anvils not sure at which point I should try and take a flap disk and know off the sharp edges of existing chips and also round over the edges a bit more. The top one is the later generation Hay Budden with cast steel top half on wrought base. The edges are very good and if anything a bit too crispy in my opinion so would look to round over a bit more.

The bottom one is a 1907 200lb Hay Budden with forged plate steel top about 3/8"-1/2" thickness based on seam. This one is ok but has a few larger-ish 1" chips right on the opposite side where I'd likely be drawing out and working steel so unsure if I should just soften the chips, or actually take a bit more off and turn that into a slightly larger radius but not sure if that's bordering on ruining an anvil.

I figure they survived over 100 years so I don't want to be the one to ruin them. I do however intend to use them and not just sit on each other collecting dust and rust. I also don't want to de-value them in case future opportunities presented themselves by cash or trade values.

Serial number is nearly worn off but appears it could start with a 10... There is an 8 under the horn and a 29 on the side. Other potential clues are 1 handling hole below the horn, and another underneath. It lacks a handling hole on the heel side end.

Either way she's in nice condition with great corners and a flat face. Rebound is darn near 100% in the center.

I'll post a video next but boy does she ring. Depending on exactly where you drop with a 1" ball bearing it's probably in the 70% rebound range. I couldn't make out any markings while there other than saw some kind of serial number on the base. Got it home and took a wire wheel to it after weighing and can definitely see the Hay Budden. Serial looks like either a 135102 or 35103. Also another possible 1 under the horn? Can't make out anything else but I'll spend more time on it later.

I currently use a 65lb Doyle and honestly it works for me so I'm not desperate but this looks relatively clean and flat but the potential weld marks on the back and chip in the base.

...so we'll see how it goes. Had to double up the coiled end and it's a bit stiff and twisty so might be the only thing I don't like. Was using Samson Voyager before and liked it. I have a coupe other double braids i could try as well if I like the length but want something softer to work with.

I am looking at a couple generic harnesses like this for my Sequoia SRT and wondering if anybody has made it work easily to anchor a carabiner or clip up high to connect to a rope wrench for ascending? I see Petzl has a new Sequoia shoulder strap but looks like it's only for the Sequoia and Sequoia Plus since the SRT version is missing the 2 small loops up front for the split connect.

I made my own nylon harness but it always gets tangled in the bag and doesn't support any load off the hips so was considering something like this