u/justa_bother

Every A1 & A1 mini user (and probably every bambu printer user) has or will have this traumatic experience. Are you close to having one? Let's check. Printer on => settings=> SD Card. There you will find a screen with buttons Format and Eject along with the storage amount & remainder with a bar graph. If that bar graph is approaching full, you'll be experiencing this fail to print soon enough.

2 Solutions: format and destroy the OEM firmware stored on the OEM sd card & all print gcodes, or, remove thru eject sequence and attach to a computer. From here, open in a file management app and move any gcode & the OEM firmware files you want into the computer or other storage. device. Properly remove the card from the computer and re-insert into the printer. Now, select format. Plenty of storage room now.

Edit: I should add when not to remove nor format the card. Do not attempt to properly remove or clean or format the card while printing. Effecting the card during printing will end the print in bad ways, similar to removing a card from any devise during it's use.

The printer does need to be turned on to access the card's storage amounts and the eject & format options.

The card can be removed and inserted while printer is turned off.

How many printers did you have before getting your first scanner? My second printer & first scanner were bought together. How about you?

Thought it time I custom design a creality k1c lid riser. Tossing dimensions around & printing the results. Attach in place & design the next piece. Typical stuff. In one section, inverting an existing piece wirh some editing required since the piece lined up past the centerline. A suggestion by AI was to use the Part workbench to scale the body with only one axis value as -1. Well that sent me on a hard-headed quest for a workflow of problems. Hours later & still not wanting to completely draw the part from scratch, the answer became clear. (#1) Save the file & not save it again. (#2) Continuing with Part Design wb, modify the body to align with centerline & other changes, (#3) In Part wb, invert using described method, (#4) Back to Part Design & export body. (#5) Close file & not save changes. Tesulting print fits great on the k1c. No more slamming the extruder chain/filament tube into the lid. Looking forward to some mods to the design and printed in ASA. But first, ASA bed leveling shims.

Sure, I could have mirrored the body (picking a furthest out flat surface & asigning mirroring properties), but learning how to invert, say an asymetrical star, was welcome.

Using the nomal methods of exporting a body to slice/print, selecting a boolean doesn't work for me. Anyone know why or have a workaround?

Thought it time I custom design a creality k1c lid riser. Tossing dimensions around & printing the results. Attach in place & design the next piece. Typical stuff. In one section, inverting an existing piece wirh some editing required since the piece lined up past the centerline. A suggestion by AI was to use the Part workbench to scale the body with only one axis value as -1. Well that sent me on a hard-headed quest for a workflow of problems. Hours later & still not wanting to completely draw the part from scratch, the answer became clear. (#1) Save the file & not save it again. (#2) Continuing with Part Design wb, modify the body to align with centerline & other changes, (#3) In Part wb, invert using described method, (#4) Back to Part Design & export body. (#5) Close file & not save changes. Tesulting print fits great on the k1c. No more slamming the extruder chain/filament tube into the lid. Looking forward to some mods to the design and printed in ASA. But first, ASA bed leveling shims.

Sure, I could have mirrored the body (picking a furthest out flat surface & asigning mirroring properties), but learning how to invert, say an asymetrical star, was welcome.