u/kcstrom

Photo #3 shows my original two repairs. Metal plates with holes sandwiching the fairing where the original mount broke off. Then a 3d-printed band-aid after the stalk broke (they all did this due to age I think) until I could find appropriate aftermarket parts to fix things better.

Once I received them, I made some triangle shaped sandwich pieces to make the signal stick out horizontal again instead of at a -20 degree angle (original bracket would normally angle it), but the threads were too short and I realized I could do better and made this thing (photos #1 and #2). I used a metal plate on the inside and one of the sloped triangles so the nut tightens down to a flat surface. Had to trim it down a bit due to the not-actually-square shaped hole. It still looks a little different from the other side since the original mount is molded to the fairing and is an inch inside of it. Good enough for me though! lol

I printed using TPU 95A...hoping it'll hold up to the elements ok. This rarely sits outside in the sun for a long time. If it doesn't hold up well, I'll print again or maybe try the roll of ASA I bought (but need to move printer to garage to print with it).

In case it's helpful to someone else, I thought I'd put this out here. I had to replace the short length of fuel line between the injectors (also shown in the picture, has the two clamps on it) today on my DL1000K3, and after I got things back together again, I was getting an FI light.

Finally found the connector to short for dealer code and got C28. Google's AI told me this is due to the secondary motor not working right and made some helpful suggestions to check wires and such. All the wires were fine, but I finally realized that the rod with the plastic connector on the end, in the picture, had been twisted, was binding, and wouldn't let things move. I gave it a light twist to unbind it, put the tank back on and no more dealer code.

After loosening the locking nut, I had to twist kind of hard to get the mirror to loosen up and come off. That seems to have broke it loose from the bolt coming out of the bottom of the mirror stem though. It doesn't look like there is really any way to tighten this nut on the top here again unless you have a magical super thin wall socket (which I apparently do not). It looks like Suzuki tightened this down and then split the bolt and that's supposed to just keep it tightened forever?

Any ideas how to fix this?

edit: see this comment for explanation of how I finally got it.

First time I've taken both wheels off at the same time. I wasn't sure how well it was going to work out, but it was fairly stable. Caution tape and stuff in the road to help remind others in the house to stay away though, because it wasn't THAT stable. Especially if the fork was turned left or right.