u/onwatson

Square toe combat boots paired with ONI Denim extra wide 13oz. Jeans.

I am a boot designer based in Berlin, Germany.

This is the hand-welted prototype for my combat-style boot. It is a first version to test the look and feel as well as the construction before moving to production. My goal is to develop a classic yet fashionable boot made from the highest quality materials and construction methods. The boot is designed to sit in the space between a rugged, utilitarian silhouette and an elegant "dressy" character with a modern European vibe to it.

Current prototype specs:

• Upper: Tochigi vegetable tanned full-grain cowhide (Oil Vachetta)
• Construction: 360° flat welt
• Outsole: Vibram Mini-Lug full sole

Design intent:

The silhouette is deliberately substantial – a thick sole, square toe box, and a tall shaft give the boot its rugged, grounded and partially aggressive character. At the same time, the generously rounded quarters, clean lines, and pronounced heel are meant to introduce an elegance that lifts it out of pure workwear territory into a more fashionable space. The shaft height is designed to allow cropped trousers without showing any leg of sock. The Outsole was chosen to ensure grip without appearing to functional. The goal is a boot that reads as refined without losing its weight and presence. It should work as well with wide-legged or flaired trousers as it does with raw denim.

Further considerations:

For the final version, I am currently considering to change the leather to Vocalou calf from Tannerie d'Annonay – a semi-aniline glazed boxcalf known for its Shell Cordovan-like finish and exceptional patina development. The tannery has been producing boxcalf since 1872 and is today part of the Hermès group. The idea behind changing the leather is to achieve a higher gloss, a less grainy finish and reduce the total weight, thus resulting in an overall more elegant look and feel.

Further, there are still a few design adjustments I want to make before finalizing the production sample – particularly refining the back curve of the shaft for a slightly more tapered silhouette, while keeping the full, rounded character of the quarters intact. Also, I am planning on changing the eyelets and speed hooks to black polished metal. I am also experimenting with different shaft and heel heights to level out comfort and character.