u/politicalyincorect42

Its looking like this summer season for the alps is atrocious, seeing as my August climbing block plans were full of a lot of glacial and mixed climbs, I am wondering what alpine rock and ridge routes I could sub in, I’ve done some research online (most routes mentioned are epic but likely not going to be in condition)

I’m wondering what niche options people more familiar with the area might recommend, climbs perhaps similar to arete des papillons, that are less sensitive to the extremely hot dry conditions we are seeing

Hello all, I’ve got a 20 day climbing block or so I’m gonna use in Cham and zermatt

I’m looking at doing a few classics on Monte Rosa (Breithorn traverse, castor, and lyskamm traverse) but don’t want to spend too long up there as I really want to prioritize objectives in chamonix, for the lyskamm traverse west to east is it unheard of to just wake a bit earlier and go over castor from guide d ayas hut before Lyskamm? Has anyone done this and experienced set backs I wouldn’t automatically think of or presume from the route itself (sketchier descent than would be made out on SAC or camp to camp etc?)

Also, logistically, how do people get back to Zermatt, or civilization for that matter, from the Gressoney or Alanga Valsesia valleys? I don’t think they’ve got the best public transit systems