Ventilation/Humidity Level Issues

Ventilation/Humidity Level Issues

Hello everyone~

As the title suggests, I'm having some problems with controlling my vivarium's humidity levels. The tank is 18"x18"x24", and if you couldn't tell by the photo, there's a lot of shit in there. Most of that shit is plants and sphagnum moss, and I think the biomass is what's keeping the moisture levels so high. I have a thermostat/hygrometer-controlled computer fan on top of the screen (behind the domed lights), and the fan is ALWAYS ON because the humidity is above 80% most of the day (goal is humidity level between 60% and 80%). The top of the tank's plant inhabitants are now starting to dry out pretty consistently due to the fan working overtime. The mister system is set to go off for five seconds every 12 hours, and there's about an inch of water in the drainage layer (2.5 inches deep total; 4 inches of substrate on top).

Short of airing out the vivarium manually (by opening the door), I'm not sure what I can do to address this. Due to the clutter, installing ventilation ducts will be nigh impossible. As such, I've kind of made my peace with the idea of the upper stratum just being a bit drier than the rest of the tank (I'm going to outfit the layer with some Tillandsia ionatha since they can stand lower humidity levels). Should I try placing two fans on top of the screen? One for intake, and one for exhaust? How should I position these fans for optimal air flow?

I'm really open to any and all suggestions and can provide extra details, if needed. Thank you in advance.

u/toiletcandies — 7 days ago

Eight Month Old Chahoua with Slight Kink in Tail

Hello everyone. I recently won a juvenile Chahoua gecko in a vivarium contest. Upon receiving him (yesterday morning via FedEx Priority Overnight), he was active and alert, but upon closer inspection it seems he has a tiny kink in his tail. I've read that these geckos are susceptible to fatal calcium crashes and such, so I figured this was possibly a sign of Metabolic Bone Disease (lemme know if y'all think otherwise).

He ate about 10 small crickets yesterday with a few licks of Crested Gecko Diet that I supplemented with some calcium+D3. I also have a Zoo Med Tropical UVB & Heat Lighting Kit (60w DayLight Blue bulb, Reptisun Mini Compact 5.0/13w UVB Fluorescent bulb) to help with metabolizing ingested calcium. I have the domes placed directly onto my screen at the top of the enclosure with an extra, folded window screen to dull the UVB light's strength (I've read horror stories about crepuscular geckos getting Welder's Eye and other burns, so I'd rather be on the conservative side than risk burning my gecko; I don't have the disposable income to purchase a $250+ item that can measure UV radiation).

Is there anything I should do or provide to help my gecko battle MBD? I've read of people supplementing liquid calcium to female geckos that are laying eggs, so I'm under the impression that this would be overkill for our current situation; however, I'm new to keeping this species so I'm unsure of when drastic measures are needed.

I just don't want to make the situation worse with possibly overdosing the dude with calcium or letting the MBD progress. Any fail safes, tips, or tricks for making sure either of these situations doesn't happen? Gonna be honest, I rarely find doses/amounts of calcium to administer to reptiles affected by MBD save for the occasional, "If you have a UVB, don't use calcium supplemented with D3." Even this statement seems to be up for debate because there are some keepers who stand ten toes down on the whole, "Your gecko can't thrive unless given UVB," as compared to other breeders who won't risk burning their crepuscular friends. The breeder who sent me this gecko did not use UVB, and I'm wondering if that's why my gecko has the kink in his tail.

If you need any more information regarding our situation, please let me know. I'll provide what I can to help figure out the best plan of action. Thank you!

*Reposted with (blurry) photo. Kink is about 3/4"-1" down from the base of his tail.*

u/toiletcandies — 15 days ago

General Questions About Chahoua Gecko (~8 months old)

Hello all! I won an eight month old Chahoua gecko who will be arriving this Tuesday (4 August 2026). First two photos are the most recent of the gecko, fifth photo is of his parents, and the rest are of the enclosure I intend to keep him.

My first question for keepers: About how big was your Chahoua at eight months old (hatch date in January 2026)? The breeder told me he weighs 10g. The husbandry on these guys can be a bit confusing, or even contradictory, but most sources say he's a bit on the small side and should be closer to about 20g? Is this true? If so, what do you recommend I do with feedings to get him "back on track?" Also, at this age/size should I worry about the gecko accidentally eating substrate and getting an impaction? Should I just tong feed until he's older to avoid this potential problem?

Regarding enclosure, I've been working on an 18"x18"x24" bioactive enclosure. The breeder thought the tank was 12"x12"x18" (I sent her a photo of my planted vivarium for a contest) and really only commented on how the plants were great choices (e.g. non-toxic, colorful, good cover for sight lines, etc.). Is the size of the enclosure going to be a huge problem for my little Chahoua? I've heard of geckos getting lost and starving in a tank that's too large. Should I get a temporary holding tank until he's a bit bigger (maybe around 20-25g)? I'd really like to see my vivarium put to good use but not if it will be detrimental to the reptile. Is there a way to perform a "trial run" to see if he'll survive and thrive in the established vivarium? Any fail safe tips I should incorporate while running the experiment (e.g. unload a bunch of small feeder crickets so he can hunt for food, place multiple bowls of Crested Gecko Diet throughout the enclosure, etc.)? I should mention that the enclosure has well-established colonies of orange springtails and Cubaris murina Papayas that the gecko can snack on (I don't know if Chahouas actually eat clean-up crew critters).

Regarding the plants, yes, I'm aware that a lot of the little plants will probably get trampled as the Chahoua grows. Fortunately, most of these plants will grow from leaf/stem cuttings, so I think I have a relatively forgiving group of plants. I haven't included many of the "All-Star" vivarium plants (e.g. pothos, alocasia, phildendron, begonia, etc.) due to the present of calcium oxalate crystals. I know these plants typically don't bother geckos, but I didn't want to risk him getting any sort of irritation from sap from broken stems/leaves/roots.

Any and all recommendations would be greatly appreciated as I have never kept a Chahoua let alone one so young (I'm fuckin' scared I'm gonna screw this royally, guys). Please help. If you have any questions for me, please feel free to ask.

u/toiletcandies — 19 days ago

Seeding a Vivarium with Clean-Up Crew

Hello all. I kinda have a silly question; please indulge me.

I have a vivarium that has a metric butt-load of plants and sphagnum moss on three of the walls. Should I try to seed some of my clean-up crew (orange springtails, Cubaris murina sp.) in the higher layers of my vivarium since I don't have anything that can really jump (the orange springtails kinda move like pond water)? I'm not even sure if springtails and isopods even really leave the substrate level, but I figured since there'd be detritus at all levels, they'd eventually occupy the upper layers too, especially if the vivarium is already humid as fuck. If my logic is sound, would it hurt to place a few critters here and there along the walls? Would I be sentencing them to death by placing them so far from the substrate?

Thank you. :)

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u/toiletcandies — 26 days ago

Isopods for a Tropical Vivarium

Hello everyone. I recently set up an 18"x18"x24" enclosure. Here are some specs:

  • Background and side panels were created with the Gorilla Glue method + coco coir and sphagnum moss
  • Drainage layer is about 2 inches of Leca (I have about an inch of water in that layer currently) with a mesh to separate it from the substrate
  • Substrate is typical ABG mix with leaf litter on top
  • Plenty of tropical terrestrial, epiphytic, vining, and background/foreground covering plants installed throughout the background and hardscape
  • Misting system has four nozzles; sprays for 10 seconds every six hours and I hand mist plants/moss that might be neglected by the misters (I'm still in the process of finding out what position to place them for optimal watering)
  • Humidity is around 50% near the top of the enclosure and about 75% near the substrate level; temperature holds around 74° F throughout the day
  • Clean-up crew consists of about 300 orange springtails and about 40-50 Cubaris murina Papayas
  • After the vivarium cycles for a few weeks, I intend to add a Chahoua gecko

Okay, so I thought I had gotten it right, but I'm really worried I may have shellacked by Cubaris murina Papaya isopods due to all the water-retaining shit I got in the vivarium. After the mister system went off, I saw a little Papaya stand up on its hind legs and just... die? Turns out isopods rear up when it's too wet for them or something, and I'm worried I just released my critters into their own humidity hell (the orange springtails are fine; they're lovin' that shit)! I was under the impression that Cubaris can and prefer a bit more humidity?

Anyway, this is the situation I'm in, and I'm looking for some solutions that don't require me to replant everything. While keeping the isopods in their own container, I give them a humidity gradient, and I wondered if this could be an issue with the vivarium (no gradient). Could I just add a few pieces of cork bark for the microfauna to hide under with more leaf litter? Do I need to bury those silicon packets in the substrate to keep moisture levels low on one side?! (kidding, of course)

If you all think that the Papayas are done for and I'm gonna need a new clean-up crew, do you know of any isopods that can handle high humidity? Due to the living parameters of the gecko, I don't think I can really compromise on the vivarium's humidity levels.

Thank you!

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u/toiletcandies — 1 month ago

Can I Cohabitate Red Thais and Orange Springtails?

Hello everyone. I've recently picked up a culture of orange springtails and have established a few colonies to hedge my bets on cross-contamination/hitch hikers (four cultures of varying sizes; the largest probably houses anywhere from 50-100). The vivarium I wish to keep the springtails in, as part of the clean-up crew, is 18"x18"x24", so there's quite a bit of substrate for microfauna to explore.

Could I possibly cohabitate Thai Reds with some of my orange springtails in that size of an enclosure? I have read that the Cheetos tend to stay below the substrate while the Thai Reds tend to dwell on the surface; has anyone found this to be true? And if it is true, could this possibly mean that the two springtail species will occupy different ecological niches and therefore not compete with one another?

I have an additional culture of orange springtails that will number between 200 and 240. If I can keep the two species together, should I get a similar number of Thai Reds so one doesn't have a clear advantage over the other when they're trying to establish in the vivarium?

I hesitate to just try this out on my own as these springtail species tend to be a bit on the pricier side, and I would hate to lose one or even both of the colonies. I have come across some breeders who sell Reds and Oranges together, but I'm not sure if the sellers actually know what they're doing or if they're just trying to sell off cross-contaminated merchandise.

I would appreciate any husbandry tips you have to offer. :)

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u/toiletcandies — 1 month ago