u/yadayadab00

It took me about 10 hours total. I work slow and passenger side axle gave me some trouble- it didn’t want to slide in or out… I went with Koni SAs. I’ve only done a low speed test drive so I can’t comment on the ride yet. I just wanted to mention a few things in case anyone is planning to do this.

I ordered a refresh parts/kit from FCP and ECS so the strut and shock mounts and most of the bolts were replaced. A couple bolts/nuts were not included and I plan to replace: front lower ball joint nuts (3x each side), front axle bolts, lower strut bolt/nut.

The rears are much easier. Make sure to measure stock ride height before you jack up your car. When you torque down the lower bolt, you want the control arm jacked up to ride height. For me this was 16” from fender lip to the center of the axle. I found it much easier to install the bottom of the shock first and get the bolt threaded through, then attach the top shock mount. I did this in reverse order on the drivers side and it was difficult to line up the holes to get the lower bolt threaded through. On the passenger side, there is a reservoir that blocks one of the upper shock mount bolts. The reservoir is held on by one obvious bolt and then hangs from a metal tab. If you slide it up and push back it comes free pretty easily. I did detach one tube and an electric connection from the reservoir.

You will need a couple of pass through wrenches for disassembling the shocks and struts. I had the correct size for the shocks, I believe it was 16 or 17mm. I had to order a 21 and 22mm for the struts. I was able to make due with a 22mm only- the 21mm was delayed and I couldn’t wait for it. I just jammed a 2mm Allen wrench in the teeth and that allowed me to remove the old nut.

I suggest getting a strut spreader tool for removing the strut from the steering knuckle. I was able to get by with a flat head screw driver and pry bar.

I planned to replace the rear sway bar links but the rear springs blocked the hole in the link so I couldn’t remove the bolt. I planned to do this in the future. I think I’ll have to remove the rear springs. I’m open to suggestions.

In addition to basic tools, you may need/want:
-Triple Square socket set
-Torx bit set
-Long Allen wrenches or Allen wrench socket set
-24mm 12 point impact socket
-Impact Wrench
-Torque wrench
-Pass through socket set
-21 and 22mm pass through socket (I used this one: https://a.co/d/0faoLJU3)
-Strut spreader tool (I ordered this one but it was delayed so not used: https://a.co/d/04KkQ3EK)
-Strut compressor (rented from AutoZone)
-new front axle bolts
-new front lower ball joint nuts
-new front lower strut mount bolt/nut

This video is a very good guide https://youtu.be/i55h2CLW0ZU?is=3a7iDWxsILJOCY--

Feel free to AMA!

2017 SEL with 127k. I noticed an oil leak last week and it was my pan. I wanted to go metal and used the aFe Power Pro Series. Installation was straightforward but a little messy. I’ll report back if I’m happy with it in the long run. I’m very happy to replace the plastic pan and the OEM oil plug. I also replaced the oil level sensor since it was easy to do at the same time.