I will be replacing the engine in my 2010 335i in the next few months. It seems like 6 Bolt engines are hard to come by. I am considering purchasing an 8 bolt since they seem to be plentiful. I do plan on also upgrading my clutch at the same time so I flywheel issue I'm aware of. Are there any cons going from 6 to 8 bolt engine? Should I wait and try to find a 6 bolt or try and rebuild mine (low compression on cylinders 1and 6)
Thoughts?
So I've been looking into short shifters lately, but I have 2011 e92 and there isn't many options according to turners website saying the n54 and n55 shifters are not compatible.... Can anyone confirm if they're interchangeable or not..?
Edit: I'm looking for the compatibility between chassis and transmission, will any e92 shifter fit n54 and n55?
The car has a bit rough startup and I don’t know what is wrong with it or if it is normal, ran it with a reader and it says a code: DTC 2DCE
This is my second 335i I own and I think I got a pretty good deal, car is completely stock. I drove it back home 4 hours and it drove amazing! No plans on selling it just a personal vehicle.
I have an 2009 335I N54 and was wondering what liqui molly oil would be the best because I’ve seen that there’s some named Molly gen and some not. Previous owner put nothing but liqui molly but when I took my car to a mechanic to change the oil they claimed to put liquid Molly but the engine just sounds different and a lot louder so I’m just gonna do it myself this time but wondering what oil I need,
Looking at this on an N55 2012 E92, will the stock clutch hold the power?
Hey!
I was wondering how to achieve 500HP (not whp).
I’ve read alot about it online and I’ve seen a lot of mixed answers. They suggest using e85 or meth injection on top of the following list (they say that you don’t need upgraded turbos then, but I want it to be a little more ‘reliable’) I want to do it with upgraded turbos:
Upgraded Intercooler
Upgraded chargepipe
Upgraded HPFP (is this needed when driving in eur98 fuel?)
Upgraded LPFP
200cell, or catless downpipes(preferably 200cell so I can still keep it legal here).
Better inlets and outlets
E85 fuel or meth injection
(Upgraded turbos not included at this list, because this is what They suggest)
I believe I don’t need port injection for 500hp at the crank.
I still need to buy the car, and the 500hp goal will be one for in the future. The car has got a new engine which now has 40k KM, this also goes for the turbos, injectors etc. The maintenance history is fully known, and also present. The engine replacement etc. Has been done by a trustworthy company.
The reason why I’m already asking this is because I want to make a spreadsheet to see what everything would cost me, and in what order/ how often I’d want to invest more money for upgrades. (maintenance not included, I’ll always do this preventative and when needed)
Before tuning I’ll make sure the engine and transmission is in top shape ofcourse, I’ll also replace the HPFP and lpfp preventative. After this is done I’ll add the upgraded chargepipe, downpipes, FMIC, intake etc. so I can run MHD stage 2+. I will later upgrade the parts needed for 500 hp.
My question:
Is it possible with the list that’s provided at the top of this post to achieve 500hp at the crank without e85 and meth injection? Meth isn’t really a problem, but I’d rather avoid it.
I’m pretty new but I’m learning a lot, I’m really looking forward to starting this project and all help is really appreciated! Please correct me on things that I’ve got wrong, since I’m sure I’ll have ;)
I’m in the market for a turbo upgrade on my N55 e92. I’m heavily debating between going top mount full frame and a hybrid turbo. So far I’ve been tempted to go with a Chinese rep of the pure750/600 in the meantime for performance until I can go for the top mount setup which is what I’ve truly want. I just wanted to start a discussion to see the pros and cons of hybrids vs a top mount and also the Chinese rep vs the pure brand. I’m running full bolt on with port injection and flex fuel kit. Stock engine paired with stock DCT transmission.
If you have as much luck as me and the back of this lovely little connector shatters into 7 tiny pieces and falls down the hose don’t panic!
You can disconnect the pipe at the thermostat and attach a water hose on the top part to flush it out.
Just make sure to have a bucket.
This saved me a great amount of time but good luck putting the hose clip back onto the thermostat, those were very frustrating 20 minutes.
Selling my weekend driver…just don’t use it enough. San Antonio area…what should I ask? KBB is saying $8800 but I’m thinking $11000. 87K miles, new tires, no mods, m-sport suspension and engine upgrades, all maintenance always taken care of, everything works, no warning lights. It does have very slight hail damage.
What should I expect realistically?
My mother had my car so I don’t have the full details.
Car gave Driving Stability msg, saying brake and drive control system failure. Then she turned the car off. It would not turn back on. Upon trying to restart, screen would give msgs like low battery, steering lock and others.
Upon a jump, car turned on. But the guy who jumped, claimed smoke started coming from the engine bay. And told her to get the car towed to a shop.
What on earth could this possibly be?
Further details: initial message came halfway into a trip. Then steering felt harder. Upon reaching destination, car would not restart. After jump, smoke and weird noises from the engine.
I know real diagnosis will come from codes. But what could the potential issue be?
(2008 e92 335i)
Looking for an aftermarket front bumper for my E90. Please share if you have one.
I haven't been convinced of the "M Style" front bumpers yet. Wondering if theres any other options?
Seen Durafelx on ebay but it would cost me £400 just for shipping.
hey yall, so i previously had made a thread about this, currently the car is having a crank no start issue, actually it only cranks on a charger because thats the only time its got enough voltage to crank.. to start from the beginning as quick as i can, one day i was driving to work, pushed it a little bit on the hwy but nothing too hard at all, as soon as the car came to a stop to back into my spot it was pissing coolant, a decent amount too, checked the reservoir and didnt look like it dropped a bit, checked for leaks throughout the day or any signs of a broken hose, couldnt find anything, drove fine no leaks until 1-2 days later i was on the way home from work and i was passing a car, not even building a full lb of boost and the car just fell on its face and died, luckily was able to get it pulled over and stopped with almost 0 brakes or steering and got pulled home.
so after the codes i was getting i was just gambling on it being the main dme relay so i got one and swapped it on up at the dme box, nothing, so i started testing x60001 connector pins 26 and 15 and then checked wire 1 and 2 on the back of the main relay, along with the rest of the wires just to make sure, from what i believe everything seems fine.. going to do a recheck today while car is on charger since that is the only way it will stay at 12v.. not even minutes of it being off a charger and it will drop to 5-6v and everything starts going crazy, headlights flickering and fuses in the junction box ticking like crazy until it just completely drains and dies. I did check fuse 37 and 4 in the glovebox with ignition on and they tested good.
I grabbed the battery from my moms mini cooper, which is the same size and everything as my current battery, still wouldn’t start and brought back 2acb and 2acc codes immediately after clearing, the one thing i didnt do was check to see if that battery also drains like mine does but it was plugged in for a bit while i messed around and it didnt die. So i do think my battery is bad but its only 2 years old so something has to be failing and draining my power..
it cant just be the battery because even with a good working one it still had issues, granted i didnt register that one i tried but you only have issues with unregistered batteries after a few days or so from my experience.
Just extremely lost, its been close to a month now i believe that the car has just sit in our shop at home and i need to get it back running. I am no diagnostics mechanic i can just figure easy shit out and pull off/install parts.. so this is really throwing me.
Any help is appreciated, miss my baby🤣
Tomorrow I am planning on looking at a 2010 335I X Drive E92 with 35k miles. For 12 grand that has been posted for 20 days. The price seems cheap to me like a very good deal and the longevity of the post is the only thing I’m batting an eye at looking for some advice because in the post he that on startup when cold it idles rough due to carbon buildup on the intake valves, which I feel is very believable if it hasn’t been done and its whole life, but at the same time, it makes me bat an eye due to the low price and time posted. I’m planning on reading the codes and looking at the car very closely. Any advice or thoughts? Does this raise suspicion?? Thanks
Hey can anyone give me a few pointers on what to look for or ask with this car I’m not too familiar with it.
This is the description
This car is fully loaded with m spot package and adaptive headlights. The best part, this car is manual! It runs and drives beautifully. Leaks no fluids and tires and brakes have a lot of life remaining to them. Recently had the oil change and filter done with new turbo outlets and new front control arms. The car has KW Coilovers and an upgraded intercooler with an intake with a Stage 2 fuel pump, catless DP, FMIC. Tune by motiv.
It seems that the car runs better after putting in some solenoids I got off amazon, but now instead of randomly getting the code, it's persistent and I can't get it to go away..
I recently did my turbos and the rod bearing and I decided to take off all the front trans ( the axles, the differential, and the shaft). And now I just found out that this flange can fall and damage the transfer case. Is there anything that can prevent this? Without having to take the transfer case off?