Some pictures of the design, and next to the old PETG stacks and filters.

Wanted to delete my PITA airbox on my Kawasaki and put cold air Pod filter intake on it, but CV carbs don't like pod filters. So I played around with intake restrictions to make them work.

Original intake diameter was 40mm and it barely ran. Put in a 20mm restriction and it had great response down low but could get past 6k rpm. Put in a 30mm and it was kinda bad down low but pulled great on top. Played around with some sizes and shapes but could never get a perfect powerband.

Then I had an idea what if I could have the down low power of 20mm and the top of 30mm restriction. Got some old TPU out of storage and this was the result. It's 20mm with low airflow, and gets up to 30mm when fully open. Worked perfectly the first try, no more deadspots and pulls steadily until the redline.

[REPOSTING - FORGOT PHOTOS FIRST TIME ]

It's like putting lipstick on a pig, but I keep making 3-d printed accessories for my rough 1974 daily driver.

In this case, my oil dipstick needs painting. Instead of doing that, I designed a multi -colored, snap-on cover, with BMW lettering on it.

The question is whether PETG filament, with a glass transition level of around 200 centigrade (392 degrees fahrenheit) will stand up to the oil temperature.

Unfortunately, my gal is not up and running right now. If someone can get a couple of consistent readings (and they don't live in Florida or Alaska), for their trouble I'll send them a finished cover in the colors they may choose - assuming the temps work out.

Post your readings and then DM me address to send a cover. Thx.

 

So I try not to bug people with questions when I’m learning something new, but I think I may need to here. Hopefully you all won’t mind.

I have an H2D with the HT spool heater. My plan is to print out a radio box for an 86 Samurai. I currently have this box, but I’m going to design the whole box with a compartment underneath that will hold an equalizer and look as close to a stock box as I can get it.

After asking questions to AI 🙄 it led me to the conclusion that I need PA6-GF, which I bought in charcoal, hoping to match the dash.

After reading and scouring, I may be in overkill territory with this. Some people say all you need is ASA.

It gets hot in the cab in the summer and needs to be tough. Did I go with the right material and after is printed do I need to bake the part, then dunk it in water for 24 hours? Also another instruction from AI. I’m here asking real people, because who knows what you can trust with its information. Thanks. This is the stock radio box.

24 hours print, it locks into the stock box lower section. Fully open rear port to the brake master cylinder area which is open to the top. I had someone ask for a inverted scoop for that too so that'll be a future scan/print project.

I have the box on cults, same link as the previous 3 designs that are not open to the back

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/r53-airbox

>You wouldn't download a car?

Watch me.

Heya! Been a while not posting here since my NA been drown by the storm ahah.

Sooooo, one year ago I posted here about my 3D printed Targa prototype: https://www.reddit.com/r/Miata/comments/1kgryjc/final_prototype_on_my_3d_printed_targa/

And since then I sold my hardtop files to quite a few customers around the world and only got very good feedback from my work (aside some bits and bobs to fix).

Also one of my customers made a post recently there which got quite some attention: https://www.reddit.com/r/Miata/comments/1szdj8t/custom_roof/

After all those talking, comments, and time passing I wanted to be back here to share some more details and what's coming next.

FIRST OF ALL

My Hardtop and fenders are still daily used on my car without a problem. As I live in the south of France and LOVE the top-down, I don't really use the hardtop much. But for the trackdays for instance or when it's raining for days, it's perfect.

The fenders also still there without a crack (I'm genuinely surprised !) those are raw printed with PETG and just painted using a 2K paint (the OEM NA RED).

On my cars I have quite a lot of others 3D printed stuff, from popups covers/top, tombstone, dashhood (not on the first pic because I broke it poorly bahahah), short center console front and rear, ducktail, rear panel, front shock bumper and many tiny things.
I'm happy with all of those on the daily basis.

What I don't use daily and why:

Over my creations I don't use daily the Trunk because it can be broken easily compared to a steel trunk (I wouldn't use a fiberglass or carbon to for the same reasons), I can have my bagpack inside the trunk or stuff and I'm using my car daily from back-country to center of big cities... So yeah that's the only thing I'm not at ease with.

I also don't use daily the targa for the same reasons but not only, it was not finished (last summer I had a LOT of life issues and could'nt complete it), but also the roof once remove take all the space in the boot :/
I'm thinking for maybe a 3 split section, but also "meh" ahah.

Quick Q&A:

Which filaments/materials:
- I 3D prints my parts with PETG or ASA it really depends on what you want to have as a "final-render" ASA is easy to sand/glue and hold more temps, PETG is naturally resistant to UV and chemicals which is perfect if you want to use the part "as is" out of the 3D printer.

However I do not recommend using PETG for the hardtop anymore, or the trunk, or any "big part/flat/with a lot of constraints.
I lost one hardtop and one targa during the summer last year, and also lost a trunk.
PETG wasn't strong enough to resist 96°c (that was the temperature measured on my targa-top), it melt poorly. So yeap, ASA is now recommended for those parts or any heat-resistant material.

Is it legal?:
- Legally talking it HIGHLY depend on the part and your country. In EU it changes a lot from a country to another and the OEM Hardtop for instance have no record of testing/validation process (there is no plate or anything to that regard). Rear panel and inside parts are just "plastic parts not part of the security" so this is also good, and the fender I'd say depend on the country, in France the "security parts" are the hood, trunk and doors, so from what the law say it's ok.

How strong is it / how far did you tested it?:
As explained here and there, my hardtop was tested at 205km/h peak and no problems, still here, all tiles are good, no crack.

Of course it will always depends on how you print it right?

I also drifted and crash some cars to see how it goes, you can see a fender crashed in my pictures. When it is "raw printed" it's quite easy, cheap and fast to repair.
Perfect for a drift car (this is also the reason I use the raw parts on my daily car).

What are the pros and cons of the 3D printing parts:

I try to be as pragmatic as possible when creating something like that, but I do believe we have more pros than cons.
Ofc a lot of pros won't be interesting for "showcars and daily"

Pros:

• You don't have to scrap other Miatas in order to save/fix yours
• sometimes it's just easier to print it rather than finding it
• print at home your parts (no deliveries/broken stuff)
• a lot of time it's cheaper than OEM parts, and also quite fast to make your own complex parts (specifically if raw), even with just 1 printer
• don't need a mold or any resin (you can add a thin layer of fiberglass before painting if you prefer than sanding)
• improved design for a lot of things (aero and seals on the hardtop for instance)
• very easy to assemble thanks to my design
• it's way lighter than OEM parts (about 50%, the OEM hardtop is 21kg, mine is 7kg. OEM Fenders are 3.3kg mine are 1.7. OEM trunk is about 6kg, mine is 3).
• it's easy and cheap to repair. Locate the broken tile, print it again, pop the rivet and go again (specifically aimed for drifting)
• because it's tiled, you can bring with you a lot of spares parts in tiny boxes
• highly customizable
• fun DIY project
• you can brag about downloading a car 😎 (finally!)
• you can ask a friend or a shop to print it for you if you don't have a 3D printer (this doesn't give them the right to print it for themself tho)

Cons:

• breaks instead of bending, for instance a fender with a tiny bump is easy to pop-back
• not always legal
• result depends only on your work
• it's a lot of work to have something visually "OEM"
• it can be overwelming because of all the materials and tests you must do before getting it right
• the thickness change, for the fenders for instance, it change some stuff about mounting the inside rain cover

Maybe there are some others cons but genuinely I can't think of any other than those.

What's coming next:

Since a year I was not really able to just breathe, I finally made it back and bit by bit I can work again on my cars and take pleasure doing weird stuff and being creative again.

With all the requests I got and the excitement toward my project, I decided to try to run a crowdfunding campaign with a simple reward: a complete bundle with all my STL parts for 250€ (hardtop fender etc).

If I can fund this, I will be able to make some V2 versions (the V2 of the hardtop is already on the way) and more fancy parts or bodykit, but also start doing all of those parts for the NB!

I have home a NA, NB and NC so you see me coming right? ahah.

Right now my "everything bundle" include all NA and NB parts I did and will make, so it's quite a banging deal for everyone and I believe we are enough to reach it.

I'm genuinely and happy to read your comments! Either you are in or not ^-^

In case you want to see more you can check my insta: "[at] inateno"

And if you are interested in the coming crowdfunding to enjoy this banging deal, here is the preview link (you can follow): https://www.indiegogo.com/en/projects/hina/miata-stl-pack

Thanks for the time reading me 😄 I'm heading to bed and will read/answer tomorrow!

🖖

cforms

https://makerworld.com/de/models/2807977-tpu-wheel-stop-parking-aid-m12-bolt-mount#profileId-3124961

I thought I was done messing with this design but I might add a a third port for daisy chaining if I'm not using a can hub

It has an internal TPU gasket in the DTM port that I've posted before here

I've been lurking but finally found a project easy enough for my complete lack of CAD and 3D Modeling skill.

My air suspension tank drain was touching the OEM grille so I had to mount it crooked. Due to this, draining any moisture from the tank that wasn't making its way to the water trap was basically impossible... today was the first time I could rotate the tank and drain it!

Once my PETG shows up I'll immediately reprint these since they were done in PLA. Otherwise, I'm extremely excited to continue making more custom parts!

Heyy. Is it possible for someone to design a dutch license plate holder for me? Like in the picture. With the size to fit a normal dutch car license. Preferably in two or three snap fit parts.

I designed a modular 3D printed tabletop that turns storage bricks into a small functional table.
The tabletop is made from multiple PETG HF panels. A 2 mm stainless steel cable runs through a channel around the outer edge and is tensioned with an M8 bolt and nut. Once tightened, the whole plate becomes surprisingly rigid and stable for daily use.
The neon green elliptical inserts are printed in TPU and help guide/secure the cable path during assembly.
It is a multi-part print, but the assembly is pretty straightforward: arrange the panels, insert the TPU parts, thread the cable, tension it, and place the finished tabletop on the storage bricks.
Model link:

https://makerworld.com/de/models/2817166-modular-cable-tensioned-storage-brick-tabletop#profileId-3136599
Would love to hear what you think, especially about the cable-tensioning approach.

Created an adapter for my Mk4 series 2. Needed a clean way to mount a 52mm gauge where the factory clock was. Not parts needed as it is a press fit.

https://makerworld.com/models/2544011?appSharePlatform=copy

Versatile Modular RAV4 Divider 🚗✨
Slides in easily with no permanent changes. Adds a square receiver to your cup holder for phone mounts, chargers, PopSockets & custom inserts while still holding two cups.

MagSafe: “MagSafe Power in Your Cup”
PopSocket: “Secure PopSocket in Seconds”
Blank insert included for your own designs

Great little upgrade for the 2026 RAV4!

Hey everyone,

I updated my OpenSCAD bumpstop generator. This time, I've moved away from internal infill geometry entirely. Instead, the script uses actual physics to calculate the exact wall thickness needed to hit a specific stiffness target in kg/mm.

Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2792707-parametric-tpu-bumpstop-stiffness-based-kg-mm#profileId-3105603

How it works: The script is calibrated for TPU 95A. When you set a stiffness target (e.g., 20kg/mm), it calculates the required cross-sectional area and applies it as a specific thickness to both the outer skin and the inner mounting column.

Latest Updates:

• Smooth Tapered Walls: Each of the three zones (top, middle, bottom) now transitions smoothly into the next. No more sharp steps inside the part—it's a clean, continuous internal taper that hits your stiffness targets perfectly.
• Cross-Section Preview: Added a toggle so you can see the internal "skeleton" that creates the progressive rate. The view is now rotatable so you can inspect it from any angle.
• Internal Fillets: Added stress-relief fillets to the top of the internal cavity. This prevents the "tearing" that usually happens at sharp internal corners during heavy compression.
• Venting Safety: The script automatically caps the wall thickness so that an air gap always remains in the center. This prevents the part from blowing out the side due to air pressure.
• Base Connectors: Added a set of radial spokes at the bottom to lock the inner and outer walls together. This keeps the part stable while still allowing for the progressive rate wall design.
• Minimum Wall Safety: Ensures you always have a printable amount of perimeters, regardless of how soft you set the target.

Standard Features:

• Fully Parametric: Adjust diameters, height, taper, and top rounding.
• Flexible Mounting: Toggle between a "Shaft" mode (simple through-hole) or a "Bolt" mode (recessed counterbore).

I've been printing these in 95A TPU. Because the grid is part of the STL, you just set your slicer to 100% infill and 999 walls and let the printed geometry do the work.

Safety Note: Be careful with automotive/high-load applications. These are great for tuning and prototyping, but always test thoroughly!

Let me know what you think!

If you've ever tried to find a replacement boot for an old steering rack, a custom shifter setup, or a weird CV joint on a project car, you know the struggle. You either buy a "universal" one that fits like a trash bag, or you spend hours on eBay looking for a NOS part that's already dry-rotted.

I got tired of it, so I wrote this OpenSCAD script to generate custom TPU bellows for exactly this reason.

Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2763439-parametric-tpu-bellows-custom-dust-boots-covers#profileId-3068396

Why this is useful for car parts:

1. Rounded Wave Profile: Defaults to a smooth, rounded wave profile. These last way longer in TPU because they eliminate the stress concentrations found in sharp zig-zags. (Zig-zag style is still available if you prefer it).
2. Mixed Shape Geometry: You can mix and match circular and rectangular shapes. Need a rectangular bottom cuff with a rectangular bellow and a round top cuff for a shifter boot? It handles the transition math automatically.
3. Decoupled Cuff Sizing: You can set the top and bottom cuff sizes independently of the bellows opening. This lets you create perfect clamping surfaces even if the hardware you're connecting to is much larger than the boot itself.
4. Reinforced Cuffs & Transition Zones: Includes dedicated straight clamping sections at both ends for hose clamps or zip ties. You can set independent transition heights to bridge any difference in size or shape between your mounting points and the flexible bellows folds.
5. No supports needed: The folds are optimized with 45-degree angles so it prints clean in TPU without internal or external supports.
6. Split Mode: Includes a toggle to add a slit down the side so you can wrap it around a rod or cable that's already installed without taking your whole assembly apart.

Printing Tips for Car Use:

• Filament: Use 95A TPU for most things. If it's near the engine, keep in mind TPU's melting temp, but for suspension, steering, and interior, it's solid.
• Walls: I recommend turning up walls to 100 to make it grease-tight and make sure the flex areas are at least 1.5mm thick
• Layer Height: 0.2mm works great for the 45-degree overhangs.

Hope this helps someone get their project back on the road!

Someone mentioned it would be nice to have a parametric automotive bumpstop, so I decided to just build a generator for it in OpenSCAD. It turned out pretty versatile, so I thought I'd share it! It supports everything from simple cylinders and cones to ribbed "progressive" style bumpers that get stiffer as they compress.

Link: https://makerworld.com/en/models/2792707-tpu-customized-parameterized-universal-bumpstop#profileId-3105603

Key Features:

• Fully Parametric: Adjust diameters, height, and taper.
• Flexible Mounting: You can toggle between a "Shaft" mode (simple through-hole) or a "Bolt" mode (recessed counterbore from the top).
• Adjustable Seat Height: You can set exactly how much TPU is between the mounting surface and the bolt head to prevent it from tearing out.
• Progressive Ribbing: You can add any number of ribs/segments and control the "bulge" for that classic rubber bumper look.
• Optional Base Plate: Adds an integrated plate if you need a wider footprint for mounting.

I've been printing these in 95A TPU with about 100 walls and 100% infill and they feel incredibly stout.

Safety Note: As always, be careful using printed parts for critical mechanical or automotive applications. These are great for prototyping or specific off-road needs, but use your best judgment!

Would love to know if there are any other features you'd like to see added.

My other projects:

• Parametric TPU Bellows: Custom Dust Boots & Covers
• Customizable Parameterized TPU Gaskets / O-rings
• Fully Customizable Parameterized TPU Bushing

As someone here might remember, a couple of months back I made a post about my 15mm 3D printed spring spacers I put on the front suspension of my Audi A4 B9 (TPU 95A, 100% concentric infill).
Since so many people asked me to post an update after a while, here it is:
first pic is the day I installed it, second one is last week as I was replacing a ball joint that had been clunking for the past 6 months.
The "after" picture of the car has been taken today.

As you can see, it's holding up perfectly fine, no sign of deformation and the added ground clearance is still all there.
I have driven the car approx 4k km in all conditions, be it fast, fully loaded and in fairly hot climate (a couple of times all at the same time lol), and I couldn't notice any particular squeaks or weird behavior coming from the suspension.

Link to the original post:
LINK

Designed with solidworks and printed from PAHT-CF.