r/3dprintedcarparts

Still a long way to go, ran out of black filament thats why the inside is red. Any suggestions?

Petg 2 piece panel that was shaped with heat gun. Adhesive backed leather over top. I did not cut the holes

Broke these clips when installing the AOS. Really struggled to find a part number or anywhere to order.

Redesigned the clip to be better suited for FDM printing, added a double hose variant, and made it a swivel mount. Really pleased with the result. No more cable ties!

Edit: should have specified that I used white ASA so the pictures would turn out better. I’ve swapped out with my favorite PPA-CF Core from SirayaTech.

https://makerworld.com/en/models/3194544-subaru-engine-hose-brackets#profileId-3614417

I took the advice of many of you and redesigned my mount to be much thicker, and also able to be printed in the correct orientation for strength. I attached the primary mount to the catch can side with a dovetail (and screws) this time instead of trying to leave them connected so that they could print on their sides. The heat set inserts in the middle section are now on the bottoms side so they would have to be pulled completely through to fail. I also made everything thicker and also added ribs to the edges of the main mount. The other one has been doing fine, but I’ve definitely been checking on it every time I take the car out lol. It feels way more sturdy than it did before and I shouldn’t have to worry about it going forward. Thanks to everyone who gave constructive criticism on my last post!

Crosspost from r/3Dprinting: I don't know what the matter is with the people over there, they click comment without reading the post first, especially the entitled 1%-commenters.

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Hi there,

I forgot to check what direction the slicer went with the bridges and didn't expect this outcome. It may not look a lot on the picture, but the drooping is quite sever in the middle at ~20mm. Yes, the previous print had the bridges correctly oriented and it was fine.

The printing temperature was rather high for better layer adhesion and I didn't tune the bridging before either.

*Re-printing is not an option*, the screws on the right are M5 and this is Formfutura PA6-GF30, clocking in at 71€ per kg, which makes this a 60€-part, drying and printing time + energy aside.

Regardless, this is the result and I didn't rip out any strands yet because I'd like to fix that in place.

Does anyone have any ideas on how to fix this? I thought about baking it, but I am worried about warping, making the part useless.

Alternatively, I'll whip out the heat gun but I wanted to ask the community for other ideas first.

This is the inside of an intake manifold, so it should end up somewhat smooth.

Yes, I know my way around epoxy+adhehesives, I literally work in the automotive adhesives industry.

Printed on a Voron 2.4r2, 350mm, PrusaSlicer

Hey group! I am working on a custom motorcycle faring and needed a few lighting options. These are meant for two wheels, but four wheels will also work!

I went pretty heavy on the detail so they look sharp for renders and marketing materials. Fully dimensioned and tested. No string attached. DM me if you want the link!

Wanna know more?? www.facebook.com/dyhawkridingco

I’ve been working on a small free project called FlashFit AI, mainly for the Flashforge Adventurer 5M.

I started it because I was tired of changing many slicer settings every time depends from the model, filament and quality I wanted. The idea is simple: you load an STL, OBJ or 3MF file, choose the material and quality, and the app analyzes the geometry before preparing settings for that specific model.

It checks things like dimensions, overhangs, small details, separate parts and proportions. Then it adjusts speed, acceleration, walls, infill, supports, cooling and adhesion.

I honestly don’t know yet how useful it will be for everyone, but it works pretty good in my tests, so I decided to share it and maybe it can help other Adventurer 5M users too.

The macOS Apple Silicon version is currently the most complete and polished one.

The Windows 11 version is still in alpha. It works, but the interface and some parts are still rough and I’m actively improving it.

For now it supports the Adventurer 5M with a 0.4 mm nozzle. In future I want to add support also for other Flashforge printers and later printers from other brands.

It’s free at the moment and I would really appreciate honest feedback, test results or suggestions. Please always check the generated project and slicing preview in Flash Studio before printing, because the project is still young and there can be some problems.

GitHub and downloads:

https://github.com/alexmark53343-byte/FlashFit-AI

This is from a video I saw by Nikolai Aksenov on YouTube. He calls it the Rally Rolla, and he plans to actually race it against Aiko Toyoda in the OEM GR Corolla. The last 2 pictures are the full car after being wrapped and imo he achieved the OEM on steroids look that he was going for.

I'm not affiliated with him in any way, just thought yall would enjoy it as much as I do. It's a 3 part series (so far) and I linked the 2nd episode where he builds the kit and puts it on for the first time.

My catch can was mounted super janky, and I just got a 3d printer and thought this would be a good way to start learning CAD. The print failed a few times when I was trying to print it in a different orientation for better layer strength, but I think it’ll work for now. I can always change it later if I need to. Also had to make a breather fitting because the 90° I had was too tall and contacted the hood. It was a lot of fun and I can’t wait to start figuring out other useful ways to use this thing! Printed in ASA

I am a Body Shop Mechanic trying to get into any kind of Motorsport or Additive Manufacturing business. To build out my portfolio and practice on a larger scale I decided to 3D scan my Go Kart last year and turn it into a one-off carbon fiber show-Kart. Today marks the day I am finally finished with the project (for now) and I am happy to present to you: the carbon fiber GoKart!

Wrapped by the amazing @sexyout on instagram

I plan on bringing the kart with me every time I go to the track, as a sort of Guerilla marketing campaign.
Whether or not I will ever drive it like this… remains to be seen but the curiosity is killing me!

I’d love to have your thoughts and input on the whole project and feel free to ask me questions.

My instagram is @blauwasser_racing if you’re interested in my other projects. Next I plan on making a full carbon fiber e46 bodykit - small teaser in the last image!

got me ducked.

Context; made out of ASA, there will be a series of air pipes channeling air from the second intake to the rest of the system. Its going in place of the stock airbox so it will mostly be taking outside air. ive done a regular single intake before this (last image) and its been working well for over 6 months with a noticeable increase in responsiveness and more importantly SOUND. I dont expect the airflow from both intakes to be equal as it is asymmetrical. This dual intake project isnt really for performance, its just absolutely comical and i love doing these things. Like what kind of shitbox 1.6L engine needs two cone intakes

Hey everyone I just got a Sport last week and am loving all the things I have been able to print for it, I am having issues finding a file for the round air vent dials though. Does anyone happen to have one or know where there is one?

Pics of everything I have printed for Mildred: knob covers, a key holder, the bow hitch cover, and the barbie tag.

There are versions of the intake for purchase online but their version was just a straight inlet. It would've stuck out the side of the bike and just eat water if it ever rained. So I had to dig into the highschool part of my brain to relearn how to use fusion 360, and make it myself. So instead of paying $153 for a part that would kind of suck, I spent $150 on a used printer and a roll of 95a TPU and did it myself + I have a printer now.

Also designed a wiring tray to tuck the wires under the seat, but I fear to print petg on a bambu A1 mini.

UPDATE: STL Files
source files
I recently cracked my rear fender on my Apollo Go from going off a curb too slow. At some point the rest of it broke off and popped my tire and I crashed at an intersection. Really messed up my wrist. It's not broken but I've been working on getting things back together so I had to buy a new wheel and got the $29 one on Amazon and followed the videos and checked in here. I wanted a fender that wasn't going to do that again so I looked in here and there is a guy that was printing them and making them for people but he's gone MIA.

I took the STL file that Apollo provides and threw it into Claude and designed one based off of the other guy's designs a little bit but not as motocrossy. I think I like his designs more but mine are a bit more functional. The funny thing is I don't even think I need a rear fender. I don't ride in the rain or on too much gravel, but I do want to be able to just put it back together as part of the process of healing.

Anyway it arrived today so I took the 3D file and sent it off to China for a very specific type of plastic that handles heat. I chose China based on price. That's where the scooter came from anyway. It's looking pretty good and I'm feeling pretty good about it. I've already ridden a couple times since the crash. It still hurts a bit but it does feel good to put everything back together.

Anyway just let me know if you want. I might be the more current 3D printed fender guy now but it was really easy. I just used AI and I think we all could nowadays too.

Since this was my first print and I didn't get to prototype at home, I am seeing it now for the first time and I think I would make it a lot shorter on the next version.