r/3dprintedcarparts

I didn’t print them out, but I modeled them, and the owner printed them

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EDIT FOR SAFETY:

PLEASE SEE THE MODERATORS COMMENT BELOW ABOUT THE FIRE HAZARDS

But seriously with about 15 dollars in supplies you can transform your 3d printed C4 parts.

All you need is:

- A 5 dollar POLYPROPYLENE storage tote from Walmart(big enough to fit the desired part with gaps around the sides)

-A 10 dollar container of Acetone

Process:

1. 3D print your desired part in ASA

2. Soak some microfiber rags or paper towels in acetone

3. Place the rags along the sides of your tote and place your part at the bottom(ideally not setting directly on the bottom of the tote, you'll want to prop it up somehow)

4. Secure the lid on the tote and wait.... I have found that large parts take 1.5-2 hours. Smaller parts will be less.

5. Open the lid and let the part cure for a few hours(DO NOT TOUCH THE PART RIGHT AWAY)

6. install your part and enjoy!

Here are some before and after photos(obviously different colors, the original print was PETG

EDIT FOR LINK:

https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/1984-1989-corvette-cupholder-and-phoneholder

This is a screw lid container I printed a while back, what I wanted from it is an airtight seal. I printed it in PETG, sealed great and lived on my desk for weeks with no problem.

I then left it in the car for one afternoon. I'm in Saudi Arabia, so out of curiosity I put an IR thermometer on the dashboard: 97.9C in direct sun!! Another spot on the dash read 88, the seat 78, and the road outside 75. PETG goes soft around 80C. so the lid sat above its softening point for hours and warped just enough to lose its seal.

Reprinted the exact same model in ASA which softens around 100C and nothing else changed. That one has been in the car for about a month now through the same afternoons and still seals. just to be clear, PETG doesn't melt, it never gets near its 230C melt temp in a car. It just goes soft, and soft is enough to ruin a seal. The lesson for me is that anything lives in or forgotten in a hot car gets printed in ASA.

EDIT: for anyone who wants the full test, all the temperature readings and photos are written up here

ASA and some nail polish and light sanding for letters

The factory setup is hydraulic and will always fail on 997 turbos.

These brackets allow me to install off the shelf electric actuators to raise the spoiler instead.

$140 fix vs $3400

Super simple, I replaced the head unit in my wife’s car which came with a USB plug.
I gutted the existing 12v plug, printed a housing for it and now she has a OEM feel charging spot.
Had to laugh at the purple test filament which ended up being the final product lol

Doing an EFI conversion on an Alfa Romeo, the customer wants a clean install so this will hold the coil, igniter and air temp sensor up behind the throttle bodies. Out of sight of all but the most inquisitive viewer.

I had to replace a locking clip on the Evap hose of my 2009 Jeep commander, well mopar discontinued it and nobody i mean nobody carried it. So I designed the clip in 3ds max and printed it in petg. Worked perfectly.

designed this airbox for my dual DCOE carbs, with a filter which goes in the middle.
I'm debating whether to print it with ASA (easier and faster to print) or with pa12-cf.

printing with ASA will require me to coat the inside with something otherwise fuel fumes from the carbs will distort the ASA, if I go about using epoxy to coat the inside and outside,
how would I go about doing so and what kind of epoxy?

other option is to print with the PA12-CF. which won't be affected by the fuel fumes, but then my concern will be about the small carbon fiber strands in the filament that could potentially break off and go into the engine. (if that's even an issue?).

any suggestion about what material and how to epoxy/coat the inside will be greatly appreciated. thank you

I have a missing part for a lounge chair that I wanted to see if it can be replaced but haven’t found it anywhere for sale. Idk much about 3D printing yet so anything will help.

Is this safely printable in paht cf or ppa cf? I’ll need to do it in 4 parts or so

After many many test prints in PLA to find the right geometry and fit I've come up with an insert that fits into the larger spoke openings in the 17" wheels found on a first generation Chevy Cruze Eco. These snap into place with no fasteners and have been tested up to speeds that I will not disclose publicly as well as about 1500 miles of driving so far.

Testing at 80 mph (my daily commute speed) has shown a roughly 3.5% improvement in fuel economy (bumped from 28.83 mpg to 29.80 mpg on E85). Nothing ground breaking by any means, but at least a measurable improvement. Since my commute is across flat terrain and predominately interstate I'm not concerned about brake cooling; even so, the inserts can be easily popped out by hand in-situ should I ever decide to go someplace with more terrain variation like Colorado.

Printed in ASA with 4 walls, 5 top layers, 6 bottom layers, and 30% infill. Each insert weighs about 34 grams and have caused no perceivable change in tire balance.

Link to full video:

https://youtu.be/L4Negt-8AE0?is=5EqyzELVImdWNFDL

broke another clip today testing a vin change/immobilizer delete for another customer..

first time I've used my pop4 scanner, and first with a blue laser, it did a good job getting the shape, not a printable part by any means but enough to model around the scan in fusion 360

details here.

https://mrblahhhh.github.io/car/tech/2026/06/30/r53-mini-ecu-cover.html

Hey, I have a 1984 Cadillac Fleetwood coupe. I’m having trouble finding these clips that go on the Vinyl top trims. If anyone can direct me to where I can find them I’ll really appreciate it. Thank you in advance.