r/AnycubicKobraX

Hey guys, was looking to see if anyone has dialed in the Kobra X and been able to print good miniature models, especially small fine details like little fingers.

Looking for recommendations.

Thanks guys.

Hi,

just got a new Kobra X and set it up last night. I first printed the 15 min Benchy, it was OKish, some layer shifting here and there but nothing crazy for a 15 min Benchy I guess.

Then I went to test their claim about "always perfect 1st layers" and it failed miserably 3 times.

I tried 3 different Filaments: PLA+ gray (not too old), PLA purple (several month old) and PLA Silk brand new, all 3 filaments original AC. I installed them using the RFID feature and ran the 1st layer model installed on the printer.

I didn't change anything, I had it do its calibration after I set it up, I installed the latest firmware and when I started the print I checked om "auto leveling" and "time lapse" (nothing else).

The results did vary a bit but the issue was mostly the same, uneven surface in large areas, mostly towards the back and left side. Not sure what it is, looks like nozzle drag.

Anyone got an Idea what's wrong? I never had that with any other printer. I tried tightening all the screws locking the Z gantry as well as the heated bed, nothing changed. I also unchecked the auto leveling but didn't help either. I also cleaned the plate twice with 99% alcohol and a clean kitchen paper.

Do you guy have any idea what I could try to get that fixed? I know I can go and play around in the slicer and adjust Z offset but that's not what I would expect with a machine marketed as easy, beginner friendly and "intelligent" with perfect results "every single print"... ;-)

We're hosting giveaways on the official Anycubic Discord server, with several Kobra X printers up for grabs!

 

A new giveaway unlocks at every milestone:

• 11,500 members
• 11,700 members
• 11,900 members

 (currently at 11,436)

And that’s not all! You can also earn points through our daily check-ins, Help&Win, Invite&Win, Hot-topic events, and more. These points can be redeemed for discount vouchers on the Anycubic store !

 

Beyond the giveaways, we're a tight-knit (and slightly crazy) community always up for a good chat. Troubleshooting videos, a support ticket service, 3D modeling channels, and a place to report issues with Anycubic Slicer Next...If you run into any issues, don't hesitate to reach out, we're here to help. ( FDM & SLA)

We also have a dedicated channel to showcase your 3D projects, promote yourself, whether you're a hobbyist or a professional.

Come join us on Discord and check it out for yourself. Jump into the conversation, we don't bite, promise! And if it's not your vibe, you can always leave.

Not interested ? No worries, just scroll past !

First, Try to clear the clog using traditional methods like the needle and a no-clogger. Sometimes you get lucky if you heat the nozzle, remove it and then lower the no-clogger into all 4 filament channels.

If the filament is stuck inside the printhead, try to press in the cutter arm to release it.

1. Remove the print head from the machine and power down.

2. Remove the power cable from the back of the print head.

3. Remove the 4 port hub from the top of the machine. If you still have filament stuck, go ahead and cut it so you can work.

4. Remove both cover plates from the front of the print head along with the bottom part cooling fan.

5. Flex the housing outward at the cutter arm so that the cutter arm can pop to inside of the housing and remove the housing.

6. Remove the 6 screws on the main body of the extruder cover and lift off the number display, gear detection sensor (see video) and extruder cover.

7. Clear any jam in the extruder. If jam is below the extruder (but not in the nozzle, continue on).

8. Remove the hot end screws on either side of the hot end and twist the hot end so the 4 port connection is visible.

9. Remove the 4 port connection by loosening the tiny tension thread and inspect the 4 holes for filament.

10. look down inside the heatsync to see if there is any additional filament trapped. you should be able to see the cutter blade when the cutter arm is depressed.

Ace 2 Pro UPGRADE installation for Kobra X. Video attached for your visual learners ;)

7 Easy steps to get 7 color printing!

The Version B Ace 2 Pro comes with the 4 port hub and filament detection module.

Start by removing all shipping materials and dumping out the contents of the white bag that is taped inside the Ace.

1. Place the Ace on the right side of the printer.

2. Attach the return detection module with the 4 port hub to the back of the Kobra X frame with 2 M2.5(provided) screws (the side nearest the Ace). Use an H2.0 Hex key tool. The single hole side should be facing upwards

3. Plug in the return detection sensor cable to the printer (the port on the right closest to the back)

4. Unplug the PTFE tube from the Kobra X #4 spool rack feeder and re-route the loose end of the tube through the oval slot in the Kobra X spool rack nearest to it and plug it into the top (single) hole of the return detection sensor.

5. Plug in the grey Ace-to-printer signal cable.

   4 pin cable end --> Printer (behind the display screen, along the right side of the printer, directly next to the USB port)

   6 pin cable end --> Ace (On the back, in the lower left corner)

6. Plug in the 4 other PTFE tubes (provided) into the bottom of the 4 port hub and then plug the loose ends of the tubes into the buffers at the rear of the Ace.

7. Plug in the power cable (provided) to the back of the Ace and into an outlet or power strip and turn it on.

Be sure your power strip can handle the load or your machines or it will not operate correctly (AT LEAST 15 AMPS).

Hi guys, PLA marble arrived, first time in my 3D stamp life with this kind of filament.
Inside slicer Anycubic preload many profile per PLA, but not for marble and not for metal variant: there are online (can't find) or have you premade profile or suggestion for use this filament?
Actually I try PLA profile (I think this is for PLA basic) and high quality settings that seems inside the technical limit of the filament based on specification by Anycubic.
But any comment based on real use will very appreciate.

Edit - I did as suggested and looked over all the Connections on the bottom of the Printer. And 1 (the one that attaches to the Gantry) was askew. But fixing it has not resolved my issue. The Printer Booted up fine, so I decided to do another Calibration and it crashed, with the same error as before. Restart by flipping the Switch and it completed Calibration fine. Everything now, is the same as it was before, in regards to the error.

This has happened to me twice now.

The first time it happened was when I first set up my Kobra X.

It did all the things, and then when it came time to do my first Print it just Stopped (seemingly where it is brushing off the nozzle).

I can't remember the error that popped up, but it required Hard Resetting the Printer by flipping the Switch. It has been working great ever since.

Till today that is.

Today I Switched my setup to PETG and I get the same(?) error again and seemingly at the same point in the process. Where it is brushing off the nozzle.

The error description was saying something about loosing connection, and then gives a bunch of possibles...

Anywho, just find it odd that it can Print for days, but the second I change the Filament, I get a repeat error... I will update if it happens during a Filament switch again.

*Edit: First PETG Print is underway! So far so good.
Thanks for all the Advice. I did a manual purge, as suggested, and then just hit Send... Which seemed to be the most common advice given.

Hi all,

I'm about to try PETG for the 1st time and I was wondering if any experienced users had some tips or tricks to share.

So far Printing PLA has been awesome; just hit Send! I'm just wondering if I can expect similar results from PETG.

Oh and precautions I should take?

Thanks

I've been trying to find the information but no luck. Just installed the android app for the first time (I received the printer back in april) and it says the total time is 8hours and 14min which isn't true. I'm sure it's much much more, like 150h, but there seems to be no way of checking it. I've checked all the menus on the printer and from the slicer, but nothing is giving me that information. The manual is also not helping and even the AI-helper doesn't know the answer. Like wtf anycubic?