Hi all, as the title states I recently switched to using army painter paints and now, whilst trying to paint a mini the paint is rubbing off onto my fingers and other parts of the model!

The paint I'm experiencing issues with is from the historical range (beret maroon) and I thinned it down for airbrush use using the airbrush medium AP make.

Has anyone else noticed similar issues? Or is this just a thing that can be solved by me doing things differently? The issue is especially noticeable on the base, which I've been using to handle the mini (it's on a painting handle now because of the issue) the paint also scratches off really easily.

Added a white base and or a lighter color before adding the effects paint. Fun happens when the lights are off and the UV hits.

Part II - Demon Lord – Full Army Painter Recipe, Staining & Drybrush Process (Start to Finish)

Just wrapped up the final touches on this massive Demon Lord! Built this up using a heavy combination of Speedpaint staining, progressive drybrushing, and wash weathering to get a hyper-saturated, fleshy look with plenty of contrast. (Still waiting on his custom base to arrive in the mail, but couldn't wait to share the finished paint job!)

• Model: Amaros – Chaos Incarnate by Archvillain Games
• Print: 3D Printed Resin

Entirely painted using The Army Painter range (Warpaints Fanatic, Speedpaint 2.0, and Washes). Here is the complete breakdown of the recipe and process if you want to try a similar workflow:

Paint Recipe & Process

• Preparation & Base Stain:
  • Zenithal prime base.
  • Heavily stained the entire flesh and wing membrane area using Speedpaint 2.0: Murder Scene to create deep purple/magenta shadows in all the recesses.
• Flesh & Muscle Tones (Progressive Drybrushing):
  1. Fanatic: Terrestrial Titan (Deep shadow transition)
  2. Fanatic: Doomfire Drab (Mid-shadow warm-up)
  3. Fanatic: Moonstone Skin (Primary flesh volume highlights)
  4. Fanatic: Ruby Skin (Targeted drybrush on muscle crests for skin flush)
  5. Desert Yellow (Light top-down drybrush to catch zenithal light and add realistic skin warmth)
• Horns, Spikes & Bone Accents:
  • Base/Drybrush with Fanatic: Skeleton Bone.
  • Glazed/washed in targeted areas with Speedpaint 2.0: Bony Matter to add organic grime and shading to the bone root joints and ridges.
• Armor, Sword & Chain-Whip Metallics:
  • Base layer of Fanatic: Bright Gold.
  • Weathered and darkened down with Fanatic Wash: Warm Skin Shade to give it a worn, antiqued brass/gold finish.
• Final Details:
  • Eyes picked out in bright yellow with dark pupils for a sharp, sinister focal point.
  • Gloss varnish applied to the inside of the mouth and eyes for wet organic depth.

Curious what you guys think of using warm yellow glazes/drybrushing over cool skin tones to build contrast. Feedback and CC are always welcome!

Except for the skin, eyes, and the basing, these were painted entirely with speed paint markers. They’re a lot of fun to use and make painting even faster.