r/AudiA4

Hi! I’m Yves, the solo developer behind Dryv.

Most navigation apps optimise for arriving as quickly as possible. But sometimes I have time, and I wanted something that gives me the scenic route, so I built Dryv for these occasions where the route is as important as the destination.

It compares the fastest route with alternatives designed to be more enjoyable to drive, then explains what each alternative offers and what the detour costs.

I’m not looking for generic “looks good” feedback. The most useful test is very specific:

• Choose a journey or loop on roads you already know
• Compare the proposed routes
• Rate whether each route option feels good or bad (there's a reason picker for bad)
  • I'm interested in what you think about the quality of the generated explanations too and if you find that some kinds of places are missed.
• If possible, start navigation and drive one of them (I use it as my standard GPS app now, even for the fastest route, and it works very well)

If Dryv recommends a bad alternative, that is exactly what I want to hear. Was it boring, stressful, unnecessarily long, on the wrong kind of road, or simply not worth the extra time?

I initially tuned the routing around the Alps and Jura as that's around where I live. Now I need to learn whether those choices hold up on roads elsewhere, especially routes that local drivers already understand well.

Current beta limits

iPhone only, requiring iOS 26.1 or newer

• English only
• Route and map coverage across Europe, the United States and Japan
• Search does not yet support street numbers or businesses, so it's street names and city/town/village names for now
• Route planning and rerouting require an internet connection
• Navigation currently uses more battery than I think it should
• No live traffic

No account is required. You can rate routes directly in the comparison screen and add details when something is wrong.

TestFlight: https://testflight.apple.com/join/6YVUkE5E

I read the feedback personally and will answer questions here. Honest negative feedback is particularly useful.

Hi, long story short I have a very tiny ATF gearbox leak coming from the sump (plastic sump) and have been told to replace the sump and with that new oil and new gasket.

I have an Audi A5 B9 Sportback and the gearbox sump is right above the subframe. This is a labour intensive job which entails dropping the subframe to access the sump properly to take off and replace.

Has anyone got any experience with this? I’ve seen online some people say they’ve managed to do it without taking the subframe off so want to know if it is actually possible.

FCP Euro have made a video doing it with dropping the subframe but on audizine there’s a forum advising it’s possible to do without taking the subframe out (it’s for a SQ5 but I think similar layout)

Car: Audi A5 B9 Sportback 2018
Gearbox: Audi DL382 0CK 7-speed S tronic Automatic
Mileage: 77k miles

I got this error on dashboard for “drive system malfunction, contact service” and then when I restarted the car it cleared and didn’t come back but i went to my mechanic and he checked through computer and it showed that it’s the turbo sensor.

He told me to buy the sensor so I went to buy it from Audi OEM sensor and we put it but still showed the error on new one and doesn’t want to be cleared, the he checked by multimeter and checked all wiring till ecu and also cleaned it but not solving, so he told me to leave car overnight and he will check more.

Then he called me morning and told me that the issue is related to ECU and the ECU will need repair.

Just most of the people who had this issue online they said it’s either the sensor or wiring so I’m just worried if he misdiagnosed or it’s correct that it’s the ECU before I repair it.

Car is Audi A4 2022

All right folks, I’m really handy, but I’ve never done anything with exhaust. Am I even barking up the right tree on this? It sounds like my exhaust is all F’d up. When the car cold starts, the sound is really bad, but once it warms up, it goes away, except for whenever I accelerate the sound happens again.

Hey everyone, I hope someone here can help me out because I'm honestly desperate at this point...

Vehicle & System
Model: Audi A4 B8 / A5 / Q5

Factory Infotainment: Audi MMI 3G (Audi multimedia head unit in the center console, MMI control panel with rotary knob near the shifter)

New System: 12.3" Linux Touchscreen Display (Model label: ⁠LT_LINUX_MMI3G⁠)

Steps Taken So Far
Removed the factory display and connected the original blue LVDS cable to the back of the new Linux display. (The old screen had 2 cables connected; the other one is currently unplugged and hanging loose behind the dash).
Plugged the included plug-and-play power wiring harness (Quadlock extension) into the head unit (Audi multimedia) below and locked it in place.

Connected the included Y-adapter cable for the hazard lights (Emergency Button Cable) behind the original hazard switch. (This cable also has a branch for the Airbag Control Light, which is currently left disconnected and hanging loose).

I kept the hazard switch in its original upper position so it sits behind the new touchscreen (still accessible) because I didn't want to open up the center console.
The original Audi radio below turns on normally, receives power, and functions fine.

The Problem
The new Linux display stays completely dead (no backlight, no image, zero reaction when turning on the ignition or starting the engine).

I have no idea what I'm doing wrong. Plugged into the new touchscreen are the original round cable (which was in the old display) and the new long white connector coming from the new power cable that sits between the radio and the factory Quadlock harness...

Am I missing something here? To be honest, I've never done any work on car electronics or DIY auto projects before this...
If anyone has a solution, I would be endlessly grateful!

I just got my spark plugs done on my B9 A4 and as shown in the picture, there’s some oil on the plugs. The mechanic said I have a valve cover leak. Never got a check engine nor a code on OBD eleven. Can someone help? They said it would run 3k-4k since they have to take timing chain out and replace entire valve cover. Please lmk if u need clarification on anything. Istg these cars are insanely complicated. I have a bit of car knowledge, but I need help from an expert before I get into anything.

I got the alert yesterday on the highway that I had low pressure in the left rear tire. I got to a safe spot to pull over and all of the tires were fine. Fast forward to this morning the left rear tire has a flat and I see that blade looking thing, although it is not sharp, wedged in.

I’m thinking because it took over 12 hours to go flat it maybe just a slow leak and fix a flat can work. Don’t want to fork out $300 plus for a new tire.

These are Bridgestone Potenza AS tires. P.S. why doesn’t Audi show the exact PSI per tire?

Was having a bad day and accidentally pushed too hard in the wrong angle and it fell off. Is there any way I can push this back in or do I have to order a new part since its broken or snapped?

Car is an Audi A4 2022 black edition, and the light doesn’t do anything I can see, either when I indicate, or I thought it might be a blind spot indicator but again does nothing it when a car is in the blind spot.

Blind spot indicator - There isn’t anything in the car or MMI settings I can find, and there isn’t a matching sensor, amber light or port on the inside of the wing mirror which I have seen, so suggests my car doesn’t have this feature?

I want it to have a job 😂

The cost of repairs is getting a little too much for this retired person! Plus a manual transmission in traffic is tedious. Good bye B9.

Sold my 2020 Kia Forte GT the other day and bought this beauty today. $14k 74900 miles… a lot just seemed too good to pass up so it was a sad goodbye but here I am. Last pic is the vision I have for this thing even tho it’s AI lol