Wanting to black out the badges on the back of my Avant. (This is a stock image from the internet, identical, but not my actual car…)
Couple of options but keen to hear peoples opinions on looks!
Option 1 - All badges blacked out
Option 2 - Badges Blacked out, 35 TFSI removed
Option 3 - Badges Blacked out, 35 TFSI and A4 removed
Keen to know what people prefer the look of!
Hey everyone,
Audi S4 B8 CAKA, the car is throwing P2006 and P2007 codes. So far, a lot of parts related to this have been replaced, but the problem is still there. The car is on the stock tune, not chipped or modified in any way, everything is completely stock.
So far, the following has been replaced:
- Vacuum pump
- Both solenoids responsible for opening the runner flaps
- Intake manifolds complete with position sensors
Additionally, we did the following:
- Checked all vacuum lines (they hold vacuum perfectly)
- Checked the wiring harness going to the flaps
The problem remains exactly the same, and the fault codes trigger for both banks at the exact same time. The error always pops up at low RPMs (1500-2500 RPM).
Additional note: My car does not have a vacuum-actuated water pump. The water pump is fully mechanical without any vacuum lines.
I am completely out of ideas on what to look at next. Does anyone have any suggestions?
Will my normal auto service shop be able to change the oil filter and drain the oil using normal metric sockets and such? Does it require special tools?
DIY oil change is not an option. Nearest dealer/service facility is 90 miles one-way, but there is an indie European Auto Repair shop about about 60 miles away.
(used Ai to scrub the number plates and create a collage)
Hello, I have a 2018 Audi A4 Quattro Premium Plus with the 338/330 mm rotors and about 60k miles. It’s time to replace the pads and rotors, and I’m looking at the PowerStop Z23 kit (CRK7531) from RockAuto.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=11507709
Has anyone here used this kit? How is PowerStop brand ?
The other option is from FCPEuro:
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-brake-kit-zimmermann-8w0698151mkt2
Thanks!
Hi! We are thinking of purchasing a Audi A4 allroad, preferably a B9 2018 model year. Because I’ve seen people saying the benefit including a facelift, CarPlay and overall reliability improvements from B8/B8.5 which are previous 2013-2016 model years.
And the price is not as expensive as newer model like 2020 and up…
We are wondering any owners could share their experience with the car, especially in maintenance area and how’s the reliability in general.
Thank you!
It’s proving very difficult to find a desirable used 2022 to 2024 A3 or A4 or A5 in my area (Boston).
I see lots of them online available for delivery to me. Buying a car sight unseen is challenging.
Can you share your experience or suggestions?
Hi all,
I moved from a B9 to a B9.5 and noticed it feels less lively, less exciting if pushed hard through the gear changes or if down shifting.
Is this solely because of the MHEV system?
Is it necessary to run the highest octane? Or will a lower octane hurt the motor 🤔
Hi! Trying to figure out why my top isn't working on my 04 A4 Cabriolet quattro. Would this be a reason?
Finally got my valved catback exhaust installed. Had a resonator delete before and I think this is much better. Nothing crazy since it’s an a4 but still satisfied.
Last week I got into a car accident, and when the airbag deployed from the streeing wheel, it left the Audi logo stamped on my arm. At this point, I'm debating whether I should just tattoo over it and make it permanent.
I recently encounter a really bad knocking noise on my Audi A4 sline, coming from the bottom of the front of the car (pretty sure right side, drivers side)
It usually happens at slower speeds, and not when i’m accelerating or braking but kind of when the speed is being maintained and sometimes on uneven roads. It doesn’t happen all the time and is inconsistent, but very annoying.
The mechanic had it checked out and said they couldn’t find any issues with it and deemed the car safe to drive and they tightened some bolts but the sound pretty much just got worse.
Love this car. I've had it for a little over two years. Stage 1 ecu/tcu tune and a cold aid intake make this more than fast enough for daily driving. Had done some upgrades to the sound system as well. Planning to drive it until the wheels fall off lol
Looking for honest advice from people who actually know these cars.
I have a 2013 (63 plate) Audi A4 2.0 TDI Quattro S Line manual. It's been involved in an accident and the damage is described as suspension damage - currently at a bodyshop awaiting full assessment.
The car has been written off by my insurer on a desk valuation basis - no physical engineer inspection was carried out. So I don't yet have a detailed breakdown of exactly what's damaged.
I'm considering buying it back from salvage and repairing it privately.
Questions:
1. What are realistic suspension repair costs on a B8.5 Quattro? I know Quattro suspension is more complex and expensive than FWD
2. Are there common associated damages I should watch out for beyond the obvious suspension components?
3. Is it worth repairing at 100k miles or does it open a can of worms at this age?
4. Any recommended independent Audi specialists rather than main dealer for this kind of work?
Car has partial service history, two keys, 19" alloys, S line sports wheel. Otherwise solid car that I know well and want to keep if the numbers make sense.
Appreciate any honest input - trying to make a financially sensible decision before committing.
Thought I’d mention this because I see it come up a lot. If you’ve got an older Audi, don’t assume you need a new head unit for CarPlay. A lot of them can be upgraded while keeping the factory screen and controls. Just make sure you check your MMI version first because that’s where most people get caught out.
I just changed my car’s engine oil. Do I really need to reduce some or will it be fine by the time I get it back?
