r/ControllerRepair

I bought this pre owned ps5 controller because I didn’t want to pay an additional 20 bucks to get a new one and now it came to bite me in the ass lol. It plays just fine no stick drift I believe it’s just the rubber piece that’s messed up and I wanted to come on here and show yall guys to confirm. Id like to buy a replacement part if necessary to fix it myself and I was wondering.

Should I just replace the drift caps?

Or do I need to replace the whole joystick module?
(Id assume no considering I have 0 stick drift)

Like the title says I accidentally knocked off a resistor when replacing my sticks that had drift for some new magnet based ones. But now the controller won't turn on properly and only gives my 3 blinking orange lights, how would I replace the resistor and what kind would I need?

Is it even possible to fix this. I don’t know what to do

Hola, hace un tiempo tengo un Nubia Gamepad 2, pero se me presento un problema, ahora que lo conecto al celular no funciona y la luz queda parpadeando, presiono los botones share y options y solo consigo que la luz cambie a color rojo, pero sigue pareciendo y sin funcionar.

A alguien le pasó algo parecido y como lo solucionaron?

Did a TMR installation for my dualsense. Are the solder joints fine or are they gonna cause issues later on?

Hello everyone.
Today I replaced the sticks on my controller. The soldering was done good imo and everything was clean.

Once I closed the shell, the L2 button stopped working and L1 stayed “stuck” as if it was always being pressed.
I opened it again, reconnected the ribbon cables, and closed it once more. From that moment, it works fine for 10–15 seconds, then it starts acting like you can see in the video.

I tried opening it again and thoroughly cleaning all the contacts and ribbon cable traces with isopropyl alcohol, but nothing changed.

I also have an “Extremerate Rise4” kit installed on this controller, and it has never caused any issues for more than a year.

What could this be? I can take a picture of the stick soldering if needed, but I don’t understand how it could affect the back buttons!

Thanks to anyone who can help me

My brother's friend bring me his controller to swap joysticks, but when I connect it to the PC I noticed that the left joystick had unusual "drift" (it could only be moved from left to right And when I moved it in circles, the joystick skipped large parts. It looked like it had a cold solder, but everything was factory original). So I replaced it with hall effect, but when I calibrated it, it started malfunctioning again. Was it the hall effect joystick that wasn't working properly, or is it the controller itself? He's going to bring it back in 2 days but I don't know what to tell him, I'll try to exchange the joystick for a new one

The left joy stick just stays like this when I move it around. Someone please help me cause I have no clue to fix this

Hey guys, how are you doing? I'm actually having the almost same issue. Long story short, i purchased a friends xbox series controller to help him (he needed the money) but he said it had a drift issue on right analog, i replaced both analogs without checking (unfortunately) for gulikit ns51 tmr i've wanted to try. After i did the job, i've turned on the controller again, calibrated it and after 1 min my right stick went totally to left and doesn't return to normal, or X axis doesnt move at all. The left analog is working great. Checked the solder and it looks okay (despite my terrible soldering skills, new to this), but i noticed C21 Capacitor is missing, not sure if i caused it or if it was already ripped off. Anyway, can you guys help me diagnose this? Not sure if this missing capacitor is the culprit, i've seen there is a way to bypass it, tried and didn't noticed anything diferent. Also C23 looks like its a bit dirty, but i looked on schematics and it seems to be related with Right Stick Y Axis, which is working fine.

I’m the guy from yesterday’s post.
I desoldered it a couple of times without damaging anything, but no luck. Still getting 3 orange LEDs.
There’s no continuity between the various pins. The solder joint looks very shiny right after I make it, but when I use alcohol to remove the flux, it turns dull.

Today the controller started behaving differently: two lights with the battery connected, 3 lights without the battery, it was being recognized by the PC and then disconnecting after 8 seconds, it was being recognized and drifting automatically (with the L1 button acting as if it was permanently pressed), and now it only shows 3 LEDs, with or without the battery.

At this point I have no idea what else to try.
Sure, I should probably take it to someone who does this professionally, and that’s fine, but as a matter of principle (and to improve my skills) I’d really like to understand what’s actually wrong.

Got a little too frustrated during a game and pressed the left stick down pretty hard a few times 😅 Tested it afterwards and now the left stick range looks like this.

Do you guys think this is something that could still be fixed with home cleaning/contact cleaner, or is this basically “send it for repair” territory already?

It just started to do this.

(Sorry about the quality)

I don't like dealing with Scuf too much due to their proprietary parts. But when I do it's somewhat rewarding.

I was trying to remove the old stick but I used the wrong temperature and those two pads burned out. How can I fix this?