I was wondering when you do flow rate calibration through the printer it prints that strip then in fluid It shows the value say 98% that value from the 0.95 set in creality print or does it ignore that Like 1 equals 100% so 98% is 0.98 flow rate
Hello there, usually when you start the print job it wipes a couple of times and there's no loud bang, but it seems to bang louder when doing the poop & wipe sequence.
Also does it need to poop 4 times it seems very unnecessary and wasteful. I think 2 times it's perfectly fine since it will make a purge line right before printing
Does anyone know where to get replacements for the guide caps that help feed the filament into the PTFE tube?
Background: I made the stupid decision to try TPU on my external spool. Worked for one print job and then stopped extruding. So I removed and went back to my CFS. I cannot get any filament to extrude since.
What I’ve done:
- Hot push through to work out any clogs in the extruder.
- Confirmed filament will manually feed out of the nozzle (pushing it through with the nozzle hot)
- Confirmed there are no blocks between the CFS and the machine. The filament comes in to the head assembly fine.
- Checked all gears and did find some TPU wedged between two. Cleared that out.
See video, this is after pressing “load.” The filament comes in just fine from the CFS but will not extrude. It tries many times and eventually gives me the error: [FO2845] Extruder may be clogged. Click "Retry" after resolving.
Help!!!
Hi everyone, I bought some SUNLU PLA + silk filament. I noticed that the hyper PLA silk filament is not included in the filament settings. Could you tell me how much this can increase the flow rate? It's quite low (10mm³/s). the printer is a K2 Combo, I would like to print a light saber, so I don't need it to be super shiny.
I haven’t used this in awhile after a long summer last year of printing a lot, I’m trying to get back to using it and keep getting this error. I bought and just installed a brand new extruder.
I bought this k2 plus combo at 260 hours, I don't know what the previous owner did to it and I don't have any information about him, so I posted here a couple of pictures and if someone can tell me what happened. Off the nozzle my guess is that it was a blob of death, but something is not right, because of the part where the poop should drop, it's melted. Also this is my first time with a creality, and I've seen that the bed risers are not fixed to the upper plastic, and they are moving, the belts are rusty brown, which I don't know if it's normal for a <300hours printer. And also, If I want to change the melted plastic, where can I find a replacement, since I don't know how to search that particular part, I didn't found it on creality store.
How often do others change their nozzles? What visible issues (if any) prompts you to consider changing?
I got my K2 Plus in 2024. I haven't changed the stock nozzle.
I have spare nozzles as backups, but I never felt the need (my other printers it is highly visible when you need a new nozzle.) I mostly print in PLA, sometimes PLA CF. I have about 1980 hours and it says about 16970m filament.
I have replaced other things, like the extruder, PTFE tubes, and CFS buffer.
Thanks
So I've had enough with the uneven bed on my K2 Plus and had a glazier make a 6 mm thick mirror glass plate for me. It is installed very solid with vhb tape, but now the bed levelling matrix still shows this result. WTF?? I don't even know where to start now. Please give me ideas on how to fix this issue
I am getting both of these errors after my 2nd print. I factory reset and passed the self checks but when I try to print the Nozzle isn’t getting any temp raise, and if I try to Calibrate/Zero it I get a pressure issue.
I’ve removed the nozzle(thermal paste was not good) replaced the thermal paste. Cleaned off the bed and made sure nothing was between surfaces. I just got this thing and don’t want to have to start ripping everything a part, anyone have ideas?
So being the idiot that I am, I forgot to regularly change out the PTFE tubing in my CFS and now I'm needing to replace the rubber gasket that goes on the bottom side of the front feeders. Does anyone know where to find these or the exact product name?
So I bought the same heater and have been thinking about installing it. There are a couple of locations nothing seems super easy and quick. 1. The back left corner, would have to cut the back panel, just for the wiring 2. The filter fan, it fits prefect on the backside, little mods, would have to switch the wiring on the fan so it blows into the chamber, would have to move the filter or just get rid of it. 3. The left side fan, would have to remove the cover (which doesnt seem easy, think is exopy on) and repackage the heater to fit inside. 4. under the printer, would have to cut a hole on the bottom plate and design a riser/feet to raise up the printer. 5. the back right corner (Sam Wynne design) just wonder if you lose alot of the heat through the fan cut out right there. Any thoughts would be great. I am leaning towards option 2 or 3,
What poop chutes is everyone using? every single one I have tried gets clogged, seems like all the chutes aren't wide enough or have enough of a start drop.
Keen to hear of any that you guys are running that aren't causing any issues
Hey K2 owners — I've been working on getting proper native K2 support into upstream OrcaSlicer, building on top of imammedo's PR #13291 (which adds Creality Print as a host type). Two follow-up PRs are open and I've put a Windows test build on the workshop site so K2 owners can try it without compiling.
What this build adds on top of upstream Orca
- LAN auto-discovery — click Browse... when adding a Physical Printer (host type = Creality Print) and your K2 / K2 Plus / K2 Pro shows up in ~5 seconds. No more typing IPs. Uses DNS-SD because K-series firmware announces itself under a per-device unique service name that OrcaSlicer's normal Bonjour browser can't match.
- Live CFS filament-slot sync — click the AMS-sync icon and Orca queries the CFS over WebSocket, reads the slots (vendor, brand name, type, colour, RFID pressure-advance), and matches them to the correct brand-specific filament preset. No more "Generic PLA" placeholder when you've actually got Hyper PLA loaded.
- 191 K2 filament profiles imported from Creality Print v7.1.1 — brand-specific presets (eSun PLA+, Polymaker PolyTerra, Hyper PLA, etc.) for K2 / K2 Plus / K2 Pro show up in the filament dropdown straight away.
- Klipper web UI as the Device tab — instead of the empty Bambu-only panel, you get your installed Klipper web UI on port 4408 (Fluidd on stock K2, Mainsail if you've swapped it) embedded in the slicer: camera, console, gcode files, macros.
Download + test
Single Windows zip, portable, ~154 MB, no installer:
https://harktech.co.uk/tools/orca-k2/
Verify with Get-FileHash against the SHA256 on the page (or against the companion .sha256 file).
Quick test path:
Known limitations
- Windows only for now. Linux build is on the to-do list.
- End-to-end tested on a K2 Combo (F021, fw v1.1.260206). K2 Plus / K2 Pro should work, but I don't have one to verify — feedback from those owners is what I'm most after.
- Wi-Fi client isolation on some routers (mesh systems especially) will block mDNS. If discovery finds nothing, that's the first thing to check.
- Test build, not for production. May have rough edges inherited from the base PR.
How to help
The whole point of this is to gather real-world test signal so the OrcaSlicer maintainers can merge it with confidence. If you try it, please drop a one-liner on the relevant PR — "works on my K2 Plus" / "CFS sync missed my third slot, here's a screenshot" / etc:
- CFS filament sync — https://github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer/pull/13744
- LAN discovery — https://github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer/pull/13752
- The CrealityPrint host (the base everything stacks on) — https://github.com/SoftFever/OrcaSlicer/pull/13291
Source
AGPL-3.0, full diff on my fork: https://github.com/grant0013/OrcaSlicer/tree/harktech/k2-discovery
If you'd rather build from source than trust a binary off a small site, that's the branch — two commits, both reviewable.
Happy to answer questions in the thread.
Just gave my Creality K2… a diaper 🚼
https://www.crealitycloud.com/model-detail/creality-k2-diaper-system
I designed a bottom tray system to catch filament debris, dust and all the tiny pieces that usually disappear under the printer.
The system is split into multiple parts for easier printing and installation.
To assemble it, simply align the sections, slide a piece of filament through the holes to lock everything together, then glue the flaps for a rigid final result.
Honestly, it makes the inside of the K2 look way cleaner and more finished.
Would you install something like this on your printer?
When I try to print or calibrate my k2 it scratches my build plate on the smooth tab I have the textured plate
It looks like its trying to use the cleaner in the back but just scratches my plate
Well it's new to me anyway, you can now downgrade firmware OTA , Not just via USB.
A lot less bricked printers from now I hope!
Wait about half way through the clip.
v5 pull request was built today, and looking for community testers (pls use comments on github for feedback)
(v5 adds spool holder support)
Full description is in https://github.com/OrcaSlicer/OrcaSlicer/pull/13291
direct link for Windows build: https://github.com/OrcaSlicer/OrcaSlicer/actions/runs/26020279848/artifacts/7053518957
for the rest go to:
https://github.com/OrcaSlicer/OrcaSlicer/actions/runs/26020279848/job/76479961852?pr=13291
pick your platform and the go to 'build orcaslicer' -> 'upload artifacts FOO installer',
at the end of it you'd find download url.
It’s really aggravating me now.
Short of giving the K2 Pro speakerectomy… ?
