Ok, so I had this convo with my buddy
Here is my DCT m3. I also have a manual and e46 and e36 m3 in manual.
I can’t be the only one who thinks the e9x platform in manual is absolute garbage ? The DCT is so much better in this car. And please, before you say “you don’t know what you’re talking about”
I also have a manual one lol
Anyone else prefer the DCT?
Finally got this thing dialed in on Intrax 1K2 coilovers with 18x10s wrapped in 275s. Truly impressed with the suspension setup, and I’ve owned a lot of the top-tier brands on the market.
It’s almost “too good” in the sense that I can’t find the limit on the backroads. So, to the track we go.
Daily driving? Super composed. Backroads? Insanity.
I’ve only owned it a year and held off for a while before doing any major mods, but this completely transformed the experience without ruining what makes this platform special.
* Oh, and yep, E90. Apparently Reddit decided the sedan doesn’t get its own place.
Hey guys! Hoping I can get some information regarding my e92 m3’s tuning situation. I bought my car with an alpine tune flashed on the ecu but the tuner at this point is making it very difficult to get the software and files. I was hoping there is a way to just flash the car back to stock so I can go with a different tuner or just leave it stock for a while? If anyone has any ideas or knows someone who could remote in to help with this that would be great! I do have the cable that is coded to the VIN but do not have the tuning software or any files.
Hey all,
Just found what I would consider to be my ideal spec e92 m3, checks every single box. I attached the dealers page, which contains a link to the carfax.
A couple issues I have is the mileage and a bit of an iffy carfax. I say this because (typically) a 15 yo car with this little mileage is not a good sign. As well as just the lack of service records overall. It has a couple of “minor” accidents too, which in any case is a hard tell, unless your in person or under the hood. Honestly I wouldn’t mind that too much if it was really nothing. Curious to hear your guys’s opinion on this, if the reception is good, I wouldn’t mind driving the couple hours to go check it out.
Honestly it feels a little too good to be true. I’ve been in the market long enough to know not to get attached or make hasty decisions. If it sells, it sells, there’ll always be another one tomorrow. If you liked it too go for it!
Thanks
Hey all,
Have the opportunity to pick up a set of MCS 2 ways for a few hundred dollar discount, on a scale from 1-10 how worth it are these coilovers?
Use case: half track car, half mountain carver. Little to no daily driving
PFA
I found a 2008 e92 M3 with 88k Miles on it for 22.5k
Options:
Carbon roof
Single hump
6MT
Xenon Adaptive headlights
Individual sound system
Rod bearings were apparently done (waiting for him to find paper work), new clutch and flywheel less than 5k miles ago, no warning lights or errors, no major flaws I could find and seemed to be maintained very well. I’ve had my eye on one for a long time and finally found the right spec. Should I do it?
E9x M3 Charging Issue After Alternator Replacement — Tachometer Jitter
I’m having a strange charging issue with my E93 M3 (S65) and wanted to see if anyone has experienced something similar.
The car originally threw a “Charging Malfunction” warning. At the same time, I noticed the tachometer needle started becoming jittery/unstable. I believe the tachometer issue is directly related to the charging/voltage problem.
I replaced the original alternator with a Bosch remanufactured alternator. After installing the replacement, the original charging malfunction warning/code went away, but the car is still not charging the battery.
The tachometer is still jittery, which makes me think the underlying charging/electrical issue hasn’t been resolved.
A few things I’ve noticed both before and after replacing the alternator:
Original alternator caused a charging malfunction.
Tachometer became jittery when the charging issue started.
Replaced the alternator with a Bosch remanufactured alternator.
Charging malfunction warning/code is now gone after the replacement.
Battery voltage is only around 11.5–12 volts, both with the car off and while the car is running.
The battery is not being recharged while the engine is running.
The tachometer remains jittery before and after the alternator replacement.
I checked the connections at the alternator, including the B+ terminal.
I’m also looking into the alternator fuse/fusible link and wiring.
At this point I’m considering replacing the Bosch remanufactured alternator again, but before doing that I’d like to make sure I’m not overlooking something such as:
Alternator fuse/fusible link
B+ cable or connection
Ground connection
BSD/IBS communication
Alternator voltage regulator
Wiring between the alternator and DME
A defective replacement alternator
Has anyone with an E9x M3/S65 experienced a similar situation where the charging malfunction and tachometer jitter occurred together, and the car continued not to charge even after replacing the alternator?
Any suggestions for what I should test next would be greatly appreciated.
Im 90% close to buying a low mileage e92 m3 comp with manual , but also been really interested in 1m's.
Are there any owners here who have had both or changed between them? I live the s65, but keep hearing the 1m is so much more useable and playful.
I havent driven a 1m , but have driven the m3.
This will be a weekend only car driven with my kids. I want something that will feel special
Thanks for your perspective!
Can anyone in the San Diego area do the muffler mod on my e92 m3? Thanks! Or if you know a shop that can do it.
I plan to preemptively replace my throttle actuators this winter and am unclear if resetting adaptations is required. Those who have DIY’d their’s, what was your experience?
Hey everyone,
I recently bought an 08 e90 m3 and have been experiencing some issues. its got 123,000km, no notable service history. I recently did some work which included replacing the valve covers, spark plugs, and vanos covers. I used Bavarian Autosport for the valve covers, new gaskets and tube seals, also changed the spark plugs, fuel breather valve, and new vanos snap on covers. After doing the job I noticed a noise on startup for a couple of seconds, its also misfiring decently bad and in limp mode. All of the misfires are on only bank 1, its throwing codes 271B vanos control exhaust bank 1, 2B35, 2B36, 2B37, 2B38, 2B41, 2B42, 2B43, 2B44. Also rattles for few seconds on start up. I took off the plenum and made sure no wires were pitched, everything is connected properly. I swapped the intake and exhaust position sensors and it made no difference, cant seem to diagnose the issue. Car ran perfectly before doing the valve cover work.
Dont know if it makes any difference for my current issues but when I drained the oil it seemed to be the wrong weight, maybe a 5w40 or something similar but not anywhere near thick enough to be the correct 10w60. Refilled with liqui moly racetech 10w60 and mann filter. No metal shavings or debris in the old oil though. I have yet to mess with the vanos solenoids but that seems to be the last and only other thing I can think of.
Any help / guide in the right direction to diagnosing my issues would be greatly appreciated. Just dont know what else to do before getting it towed to a specialist, cheers.
I’m trying to track down a pretty weird vibration on my 2008 E93 M3.
The rear of the car shakes/hops when I let off the throttle, especially while coasting in gear. I can feel the vibration through the rear of the car and the center console.
The weird part is that as soon as I push the clutch in, the vibration completely goes away, even though the car is still rolling at the same speed. It also started becoming noticeable lightly under acceleration, although it’s much worse when coming off throttle.
I originally suspected the rear axle because it had a ton of play, but the axle has now been replaced and the issue is still there.
What would you guys check next? I’m thinking driveshaft/CSB, guibo, differential mounts/bushings, or possibly something with the rear subframe.
Has anyone had an E9x M3 do something similar?