r/Ender3S1

▲ 6 r/Ender3S1+1 crossposts

[HELP] Ender-3 V3 SE CR Touch triggers but Z-axis keeps going down

Hi all,

I'm having a strange issue on my Ender-3 V3 SE. I bought my printer from eBay last April (Refurbished one). Everything used to work fine until two weeks ago. During Leveling or Auto Home, the X and Y axes move correctly, but when it moves to probe the Z axis with the CR Touch:

  1. The CR Touch deploys the probe normally (blue light) 2.When the probe touches the bed, the light turns red (as expected) 3.But then the nozzle continues to descend, eventually crashing into the bed, and the Z motor keeps trying to push down, causing grinding noises.

✅ What I’ve tried (and replaced):

1.Replaced the CR Touch with a brand new one 2. Replaced the CR Touch cable (5-pin, Sensor to Sprite nozzle daughterboard) 3.Replaced the Sprite nozzle daughterboard (E3V3-NOZZLE V1.5) 4.Updated to the official Creality firmware 5.Re-seated the main flat ribbon cable on both ends (mainboard & hotend)

Still no Z probe trigger is received by the mainboard.

Has anyone experienced this?

My next setps will be:

  1. Replace the Motherboard. I just ordered one from Amazon.
  2. The last trail will be replace the main ribbon cable. However, I cannot see it on Amazon. I just found out the one for Ender-3 S1. Could I use Ender-3 S1 cable for Ender 3 V3SE? Or, Is the main ribbon cable available anywhere online (USA)?

Thanks in advance — I attach the video.

u/Josh_2797 — 1 day ago

Throat fan not working.

I bought a second hand ender 3 s1 with a sonic pad, and for a few weeks it worked great until a few weeks ago where the throat fan stopped working and i could only hear a faint beep from it. I checked the fan with a psu and it worked and i also replaced the breakout board on the extruder, but it still doesn't work. The connector supplies 24v as it should and i also replaced the cables from the fan to the board so the hotend should be good. i am suspecting a problem with the main motherboard but i am not sure. Does anybody here now how to fix the problem? Its very frustrating.

u/Glass_Duck8571 — 3 days ago
▲ 4 r/Ender3S1+1 crossposts

Bad thermistor

Some printer info but I'm not sure how relevent it'll be:

It's an Ender 3 S1 (not pro or plus)

Running klipper

Just installed a new hotend capable of 300°C

Thermistor is bad. I tried to look for any thermistor that wasn't the NTC 100K 3950, as research presented many people with problems with this particular one. I couldn't find one. Plan B is to buy a bunch and hope that there's enough that at least one will not arrive cracked or broken and will allow accurate enough readings. Anyway, as to my question, with an innacurate thermistor (idk how inaccurate yet, just hoping at the moment that it's not unusably inaccurate) is there any tips as to be able to make due with it so I can keep printing? Klipper config stuff?

Edit: always manage to think of something I should've added right after posting. I think the only thing I've really done thus far is set my klipper config thermistor to read "Generic 3950". I know it's inaccurate cause temps jump around quite a bit. Probably around +/- 5°. I guess I'll try to do some testing to see.

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u/Federal-Stranger8209 — 3 days ago
▲ 8 r/Ender3S1+1 crossposts

Bendy Calibration Troubleshooting/Critique Klipper

I'm a total noob at​ printing but got an Ender 3 s1 Pro from my GM for super cheap. Its been a super fun headache. I set up Klipper on a Raspberry Pi (he was not running Klipper before), and have spent a lot of time troubleshooting; with advanced settings of course. Its printing fairly well, but I know there are some things I could do to make it print better/faster. I know speed isn't everything but....yes it is. With quality if course. Here is my 2nd bendy ever after going through some calibrations.

What do you think I could change to make this print better, and once it is dialed in quality wise, what are the steps to getting it faster, faster, faster!

Specs: (I'll post settings in comments)

S1 Pro - with added fan shroud that I printed to better focus air

Raspberry Pi w/ Klipper

Mainsail

Moonraker

51 minute Benchy (my first benchy without klipper was 62 minutes and looked worse)

Tecbear PLA+

230° nozzle, 57° bed

.20 layer height

.9 Retraction

.96 flow ratio

0.088 pressure advance (seems high), but my calibration test pointed to that number.

u/GeffHexerson — 4 days ago

Help!!!

ello, I was hoping someone would be able to help me or teach me how to use my Ender series one printer as of last week I was printing pretty decent things and then out of nowhere. It started acting up and I have no clue how to fix it., it seems to be that it’s not sticking or that it is dragging my print across the board, I have put a new nozzle in. I have bought a new board to print on and I have been playing with the XNY but I really don’t know what I am doing when it comes to this I will show you some of my earlier prints and then what’s happening with them now if someone could please maybe walk me through this. these are all of the unsuccessful prints that I have been pumping out. The last picture is my last successful print.

u/Melodic_Cup_5796 — 4 days ago

Smoking and not heating up

When trying to run prints the hotend heats up and then starts smoking and shits down. I tried manually increasing temp but after 180 or something it doesn't increase and shits down

u/Any-Voice1220 — 4 days ago
▲ 3 r/Ender3S1+1 crossposts

Orca Slicer help

I am currently working on printing a collapsing dice tower, but for some odd reason the gcode is telling the extruder and bed to not heat up. Has anyone else had any issues with this and or figured out a fix to this? I am using a S1 Plus if that affects anything.

Edit: I am using the 2.3.2 release of orca

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u/doobdadog — 7 days ago

Price?

I have an old printer that haven’t used in a while and want to sell. I know it isn’t worth much anymore, but what could I get for it if I sold it? It’s got the sonic pad as well as an extra build plate. Doesn’t have a lot of hours, but the hotbed causes a restart when set to preheat. I don’t want to deal with support anymore, and I think it needs a replacement part, either a sensor or other.

u/Pelxo1 — 12 days ago

Bambu vs good old not so trusty 🤪 Ender3S1 Pro

Has anyone wondered how would it be to have say a BambuLab H2 series in terms of speed improvement?

When I first bought the Ender 3 S1 Pro did it with the upgradeability in mind just to find out later that would have been better to go all in with a full fletched printer but… budget right?. Since then I have upgraded with linear X-Y rails, Taurus V5 cooling duct, cryogrip plate and SonicPad which I have been hesitant to upgrade with Debian firmware, I even bought the BTT Eddy probe but still…

So I was curious if I set a Bambu H2D in OrcaSlicer and slice an already successful print on the Ender and see how it would compare speed wise against a Core X-Y printer. To my surprise both sliced the same print time with more or less the same print settings. Have you tried this? Is printing speed further tweaked within the printer?

I know, I know, you would get a whole lot more improvements in terms of materials, quality, reliability, size, etc. but this is just to get an idea of how would it be I’m planning on getting myself one down the road but time and budget will tell.

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u/CarliTous — 12 days ago
▲ 4 r/Ender3S1+1 crossposts

Belted Z mod recommendations?

Looking for a reliable Belted Z mod for the Ender 3 S1.

  • Using a Sprite Extruder. (for now)
  • Planning to use Dual Motors.

Is the KevinAkaSam mod still the way to go for the S1, or is there a more native project for this specific machine?

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u/MasterBlueberry8277 — 11 days ago

Uneven left to right first layer

I think I was noticing too much tension on the filament as it’s coming through the extruder I’m feeding it from below through a heater not sure if that could be causing the issue, but I noticed when I put lack on the filament a lot of the issues seem to resolve. Is there something I’m missing settings wise

u/pennypincher6 — 13 days ago