I've seen many videos about using the tow/haul mode while in traffic to prevent gear hunting.
My 2018 F150 with a 2.7 hasn't had any issues with the transmission so I continue to drive it in normal.
Has anyone decided to use the tow/haul mode even if you have not experienced any issues? Is it even recommended in this scenario?
Super excited to be joining the family soon! My window sticker populated about a week ago. Trading in my 2023 Lariat Lightning for this loaded SOB. Ordered 01/24 🥲 but I plan to keep this truck long term, so I wanted to add stuff I would really enjoy. Pretty much added all extras 😂
YOLO as the kids say!
Joined the F150 family a week ago, and loving her so far!
I have a 2023 Lariat 502A 2.7l with 25k miles that I love, but I'm wanting to tow a trailer nearly full time, and the extra power, payload, 3.73 axle stability (from an extra ~1k lbs) and 7.2KWH pro power option seems really enticing!
The image is the window sticker for a PB I could get brand new at a dealer for trading in my truck + adding 20k cash.
I've noticed there's nothing much better about the 502A on my 2023 lariat vs this 501A on this 2026 powerboost.
I love my current truck and am happy with it, but it seems like not too bad of a financial decision to pay 20k for a brand new truck, warranty, tires etc (my tires need to be changed soon), plus getting 3.73 axle.
What do you guys think? I'm not sure if I'm just making an emotional decision, or if it can make sense at all.
Numbers wise they're valuing the PB at roughly 56k and my truck at 36k. The window sticker for this PB shows MSRP $68,300.
The payload of the PB is 1490 and my current truck is 1350.
The tow rating and hitch rating is significantly higher on the PB vs my 2023 as well.
Wanted to get some insight. My 21 PB had a new transmission installed at 73k miles under warranty. From what I was told and from my code reader there were numerous things wrong with the transmission and hybrid system. I realized I dodged a 10k bullet but it got me thinking with how complicated these trucks are would I be better off selling it for something more simple? I love the truck but I’m not sure long term how reliable it would be. I’d want to get to 200k+. The warranty is up 2028 and my payments end 2029. If I sold it now I’d get around 26k after paying off the loan.
I purchased a 2022 F150 Powerboost Lariat with 17k miles in November 2025 (about 6 months ago). I’m aware of the pesky issues with the 21/22 model years especially related to the transmission. With that said, since I took ownership of the vehicle, here are the issues I’ve had:
Four issues within 6 months on a truck that has ~25k miles on it…. I have an extended warranty, and that’s about the only reason I’m not immediately trading it in. What’s your opinion? Is this all just terrible luck? Do I have a dud truck? Should I take the loss on the warranty I purchased and just trade it in for a new vehicle?
Any advice is appreciated!
I am considering purchasing a pre-owned 2023 PowerBoost Lariat Certified Pre-Owned vehicle with 60,000 miles.
The listed price is $43,000. Do you believe an opening offer of $39,900 would be considered reasonable?
Can I anticipate this vehicle reliably performing for an additional 100,000 miles? My usual practice involves acquiring vehicles that are 3 to 5 years old and driving them for over a decade.
Given this price point, would it be more advisable to opt for a new 2025 or 2026 STX with a 2.7L engine for a few thousand dollars more? Based on your expertise, would you select a used PowerBoost over a new EcoBoost, considering the potential for slightly better fuel efficiency?
Any additional insights or advice you might wish to impart would be highly valued.
Thank you.
just trying to decide if I want to go to power boost route or the 2.7. I work from home typically just drive around town to kids schools and sporting events. my 2018 Wrangler has 70,000 miles on it. I want a nicer vehicle to drive on longer road trips. so my question is to you, what made you choose the power boost over one of the other drivetrains?
2023 PowerBoost Lariat 502A just crossed 30k miles. I bought it used around 28k and this is my first F-150, so I’m trying to figure out what maintenance I should realistically be doing at this point besides the standard oil/filter/tire rotation stuff.
Do you guys recommend taking these trucks to a Ford dealership for service, especially with the hybrid system, or are good independent shops usually fine? Also curious if all Ford dealerships are basically the same or if some are way better than others when it comes to PowerBoosts.
Any preventative maintenance, known issues, software updates, transmission service, hybrid cooling maintenance, etc. that I should be aware of?
2024 Powerboost XLT just starting making this loud rumbling/farting noise at 1k to 2k rpms (Be sure to have your audio up). I've had at my local dealership 3 times and they just say it's normal. Noise didn't start until I hit 23k miles. Anyone else had this issue. It doesn't always happen but it seems to be happening more and more. Only happens when gas engine is running. Anyone have any insights into this? I like the truck but am contemplating trading it in if I can't get a resolution.
I took delivery of a new F150 Lariat Powerboost last night. This is my second gen 14 and overall 4th F-150.
2000 F-150 XLT Extended Cab with the 4.6L Triton V8-Sold at 133k miles
2015 F-150 XLT with the 3.5L V6 (not ecoboost)- Traded at 110k miles
2021 F-150 Tremor (New) 400a with 3.5L Ecoboost- Traded at 106k miles
2025 F-150 Lariat (New) 501a with 3.5L Ecoboost
So far.... what a difference, in a good way! Loving all the features I wished the Tremor had as well as the some I missed from the 2015. Looking forward to using the tow mirrors as we head camping with the RV in a few weeks.
Hey everyone, some of you might remember my post from last year (https://www.reddit.com/r/f150/s/rrTbOyzvNT). It got a little bit of here. I’m back, things have gone from bad to catastrophic and now I'm getting desperate.
TLDR from 1st post:
I bought a Gold Certified Pre-Owned 2022 F-150 Powerboost from Sarasota Ford. On Day 1, it overheated on the drive home. It went straight to a Ford dealer in Key West. They had it for a month and returned it to me "fixed," but it was covered in dust, the A/C was broken, and there were literally extra screws and bolts left in my cup holder instead of being reinstalled in the dash.
Sarasota Ford eventually took it back to "fix" the botched repair, keeping it from Dec 18 to Jan 10 (through the holidays). I thought we were good.
10 months later, the engine light came back. At the time, my wife was giving birth to our daughter and I was in the middle of a PCS move from Key West to the Hampton Roads, Virginia area. I had no choice but to prioritize my family’s move. On the drive up I heard popping noises inside the dash and watched the coolant temp rise whenever I was in city traffic. We moved into my mother’s house temporarily, I checked out of Key West on Feb 2nd, and the truck was at Liliston Ford in NJ by Feb 4th.
Since I had to report to my new unit, I bought a 98 Accord to make the commute. My wife and 7-month-old joined me 2 weeks ago. Currently living in a friend's guest bedroom because this truck repair is an anchor preventing us from buying a home. For the last 3 months, I’ve paid $2,300+ in payments for a truck I haven't driven a single mile. Just waiting for the massive hammer of a repair bill to drop.
After sitting at the dealer for 90+ days, the service manager called yesterday. He claims they found Stop Leak residue in the engine. He says the engine needs to be replaced, it’s NOT covered under warranty, and told me I should "call my insurance and let their lawyers figure it out."
I have never put an additive in this truck. I am the second owner of a vehicle Ford Gold Certified!!! If there is stop leak in there, it was there when they certified it or it was put in during one of the previous Ford-authorized cooling system repairs. Not by me at all!
I called Ford Corporate for a buyback. They denied it based on FL state guidelines and told me to call back on the 14th to talk to my customer experience specialist.
My Questions for the Sub:
Has anyone ever dealt with Ford trying to pin "stop leak" on a CPO owner to avoid a powertrain warranty claim?
How can a truck be "Gold Certified" if it has foreign residue in the engine?
Ford Techs, is it even possible for stop leak to sit dormant for 10 months before causing an issue, or is the dealer just trying to get out of a $20k engine swap?
I’m a sole provider just trying to get my family into a house. I’m seriously at the end of my rope. If you read this all thanks, enjoy your Mother's Day weekend🥴
TLDR: F-150 overheated on Day 1 and endured botched repairs, Ford is now denying a $20k engine replacement by claiming I used stop leak to void the warranty. Ford has denied my buyback and told me to wait a week for a representative to reach out.
Good afternoon fellow f50 fans im wondering if anyone daily drives a power boost short distances only and if so how does this affect the mpg with it being a hybrid?
My situation, I currently only drive 1.5 miles each way to work and about 2 miles to the gym after. Mainly all side streets with the gym trip having the most stop lights. I had figured this would allow me to stay mostly in electric mode however I seen a post here the other day of someone's 4 mile trip netting worse mpg than my 18 f150 would
Would love to hear any first hand experience
Just bought a 2024 powerboost xlt with 9000 miles. I noticed this any idea why its like this? I know its the auxiliary battery. I couldn't figure out how to take the cover off and im exhausted so I gave up. Figured I'd post on here and maybe someone has an answer why the wire isnt connected to anything.
Has anyone had any issues needing to replace the batteries? My brothers 23 7.2kw 60,000km's has been a complete nightmare. Its been in the shop a lot, changing sensors, modules. Now its been over a month and they just told him they need to pull the cab and box off and replace the batteries. I sure wouldn't put up with this. No lemon law in Canada. The truck would show a crash alert then a high voltage alert. 2X he had it where the steering wouldn't work, ac has had issues, over 5x it says to have the truck towed to dealer. It's been a complete nightmare. I have a 23 Tremor and its been great, love it. Feel bad for my bro.
Any help would be appreciated
I took delivery of my 29k mile 2023 F150 FX4, Max Tow 7.2kW Powerboost today. Hitched up the Ember and went for a drive.
Smooth power delivery, indicated 400+ miles of range, rides well, and is comfortable. Back seat is massive. I like what Ford did with the infotainment, and it has a nice mix of buttons and the screen for controls.
Total cost of ownership (including financing) is approx $57,000 less than the Cybertruck. I think the math worked out to be something absurd like 250,000–300,000 miles at $6.00 a gallon to break even, especially considering CT's $.41~ kWh supercharging cost - which is around the same cost as gasoline.
The Model Y at 14 cents a kWh works out to like 3.5 cents a mile. For every dollar of gas the truck burns, the Y goes the same distance for a dime. That's $350/yr vs $2,400/yr over 10k daily miles.
I think I found the best balance in car ownership.
Have yall ever dealt with a CEL for “P2C23 – Exhaust Heat Exchanger Exhaust Bypass Valve A Position Sensor Performance”?
I got it in March, dealer replaced the entire sensor and harness, but it keeps popping back up. Is it possible the actual value is sticking vs the sensor not performing?
2023 w/ 25,000mi.
What would go in that 4th space? Do some trim levels have an AWD?
Just bought a 2025 with 15,000 miles and love it so far. The only thing that I’m unsure about is that when I’m accelerating from a complete stop, or transitioning from backing up to driving forward, I feel a split second shudder or wiggle as I accelerate. Is this common when the ICE kicks in, or should I take it in that have it looked at?
