r/FlowX16

I've had the Flow x16 2023 RTX 4060 version for a couple years now and I have to say it's been very nice. I bought it since it seemed like the only thing for my requirements. I could play games on it with a 240Hz screen and I could also use it as a tablet for other stuff. I didn't find anything else in the market like this (especially the 240Hz screen), and the sad thing is it doesn't seem like Asus is going to be continuing this series. I remember waiting on a potential 2025 version before I had to pull the trigger for the 2023 version too.

I’m using the ROG Flow X16 for about a year. It’s very powerful and good for Adobe, but the battery isn’t great and it’s not very practical to carry every day. I’m thinking about switching to the ProArt X13 because it seems better. Do you think that would be a big mistake?

No, it wouldn’t be a big mistake, but it’s not a clear upgrade either.

The X16 is better for Adobe work, multitasking, and screen comfort. The X13 is much more portable and easier for daily use, but has a smaller screen and weaker performance for heavy editing.

So the choice is:

• X16 = better performance and comfort for design work
• X13 = better portability and battery feel, but less comfortable for serious Adobe work

So I had bought this ASUS Rog Flow x16 off of someone on Facebook marketplace and for the most part it worked perfectly.

It is the 2022 RTX 3060 Version

The main fault I found was that anytime this laptop was off the charger, It would constantly stutter and generally perform horribly, but on the charger, it felt like a damn smooth powerhouse.

It became so Irritating and I found no solution so after a couple months, I hard reset it, and reinstalled Windows 11 fresh. Ever since I've done this, now the opposite is going on.

Now off the charger, all my issues have been fixed, but on the charger, I can give it either within 1 minute to 30 minutes and the laptop will guaranteed crash.

Sometimes I have the laptop closed and I can still hear the ASUS logo boot up sound effect from it crashing when I'm not even using it. I feel like i've tried everything to fix this. I believe i've redownloaded all Important drivers and I've been tweaking around in ghelper, deleted Armoury crate but nothing has solved this issue. Any help?

Hi! a month ago I made a post where I asked for advice on buying replacement fans (two broke) and removing liquid metal and using thermal pads like PTM7950. I'd like to share my experience in case anyone wants to do something similar. I've owned the laptop since 2022, and got the GPU repasted once in 2025.

Also disclaimer, this isn't a guide, else I would've included things like disconnecting the battery and so on.

From AliExpress I ordered the following, which took about 1-2 weeks to arrive to Europe:

• 3 non-OEM replacement fans from aliexpress (like 40 euro, great quality imo)
• Thermal putty UPSIREN UTP-X 20g (about 7 euro)
• Thermal Grizzly PhaseSheet PTM (13 euro, amazon.de)

For preparation I also bought an electrical fan blower and 2 syringes for the LM. I had some q tips laying around and 99% isopropyl alcohol.

The operation went quite smoothly in the beginning, it wasn't my first time opening the case to clean dust and fans; as I once accidentally broke parts of the fan casing, thankfully it still worked. Continuing, upon removal of the heatsink, I quickly noticed the bone dry thermal paste on the GPU, which was repasted about 10 months ago. Even worse, the LM on the CPU severely degraded with a burn-like dark grey spot in the middle. This is just oxidation though, so no worries.

I watched like a dozen of videos on removing LM and thought I was ready, well I was, but damn you need patience and time. After what seemed like hours, I proceeded with cleaning the thermal paste on the rest of the GPU and VRAM. That went quite easy. Eventually I cut the thermal pads to size and put them on both the CPU and GPU, along with the thermal putty on the other components. Replacing the half broken middle fan was super easy as you can imagine.

Eventually everything was put back together and the laptop started normally. Immediately noticed the temps are lower and fans don't have to spin as hard to maintain the same temps. I didn't stress test it immediately as I know it takes about 10+ cycles for the pads to settle and give more accurate readings, but those were just my initial observations.

Here's things you need to be aware of and what I would've done differently:

• THE CPU HAS A LITTLE GAP BETWEEN THE PROTECTIVE FILM AND DIE. This initially discouraged me a lot upon seeing, because there was LM inside the tiny gap which seriously took a long time to clean. I had the mold q-tips to get some cotton between it and pick up tiny LM beads.
• The plastic syringe I got from the pharmacy had too big of an opening to be useful. Fortunately I did manage to get 2 blobs inside it, but I had to make the blobs quite big.
• Don't use regular q-tips/cotton swabs, I know some people don't care but sometimes fibers did get loose, especially at the square foam part on the heatsink. It helped to submerge it in alcohol first.
• When opening the back cover or fidgeting with the battery, you have a small possibility of messing with the connection of the hall sensor. Which if even slightly moved, can cause black screen issues that will make you want to pull the hair out of your head. Another user posted about this 2 years ago and I want to refer to it just in case. This didn't happen to me now, but happened a year ago and took me a day to solve.

Feel free to ask about anything in detail. I hope this helps anyone considering doing this themselves, whether with the flow x16 or other laptops of similar magnitude.