Hey everyone!
I have a Mk2 with a swapped 1.8T AGU engine.
Right now the car does 100-200 km/h in around 11 seconds on stock components.
Can you recommend a good turbo setup that would allow me to reach around 7 seconds 100-200 km/h, assuming forged engine internals and all the proper supporting mods?
Ideally, I'd like to keep relatively early spool as well :)
Thanks!
I am new on the scene, and already at the fence about getting my first Mk2, and I've seen one local for sale. It is a base model with a 55hp engine and, according to the brochure, it does not have a stabilizer bar, nor a beake modulator to prevent the rear from locking up under hard braking.
So, my question is, how dangerous could such a car be for occasional commuting, with some highway and all-season country roads?
And, can such components be easily retrofitted to a car that came without? i.e. the car's structure is the same across the range, and has already the mounting points/brackets for mounting those, but elected not for base models.
Thanks a bunch!
Been going back and forth on these for months. Saw a few builds running them and couldn't get it out of my head.
Fitted them yesterday and honestly the front end just looks complete now. The black on black with the BBS mesh underneath is exactly what I was going for. Simple change but it ties everything together.
Golf 2 never gets old man.
got them from https://o43d.com/products/2x-hella-style-headlight-covers-caps-vw-golf-2-mk2-gti-gtd16v-g60-rallye
Hi guys,
My dad and I just bought a 1991 golf GTI 8v edition one.
Its a barn find which we plan on fully restoring like new.
Which websites would you recommend for parts?
Also are the edition ones worth more than a normal gti, i can't find any for sale so i have no clue😅.
Thanks a lot
Links to other services in comments below. Hope you like it!
Sorry in advance if I'm overthinking, but looking for some guidance on upgrading to a Passat b3 dual rad fan setup on my MK2 gtd (already has the largest radiator for golfs). I know it is a common upgrade but cannot seem to find a lot of info online.
Any tips on what "physical" changes I have to do to the Passat shroud for better fitment? I already cut a half circle to make it fit around the front engine mount but it is still not flush to the radiator on the alternator side. Should I trim the bottom to clear the crossmember? What did you guys do?
How are you guys mounting it to the rad on the alternator side? The original holes on rad and shroudon the battery side are perfect, but how about on the alternator side? Custom brackets?
I got the Passat fan connector and was planning on just replacing the golf's original conector but noticed the wires on the Passat plug have larger diameter. Made me think the Passat fans pulls more amps which may pose a fire hazard if I just splice it to the original golf's harness. Am I overthinking it or should I use relays?
Any info, pics or guides are welcome!
As the title suggest, i request pictures of you MK2‘s with VW Up wheels/rims, preferably the 17“ Brands Hatch or Polygon, as long as anybody has this combination.
Playing with the idea to replace the 15“ BBS MK3 rims on my GT Special.
What a pleasure it was to meet Andy the owner and take this thing for a spin. I hope you guys enjoy the video
Im putting a 272 degree schrick cam into my cylinder Head with harder Springs so i have to Take out the old stuff and clean the Head
I dont know if im tripping or if the left wheel is more offset and has less camber than the right one. If so is that a huge problem? bcos the car drives fine.
(Im German so please excuse possible mistakes)
So my Latest extremely necaserry Impulse buy just arrived and After looking at it I have found some Oddities as there are 4 valves missing which is No Problem I was Planning to put in a new valvetrain anyway but what is More concerning is Why are they missing and why is the some Random grey sealing mass all around the cylinder Head I also noticed these weird carvings at every Valve possibly for a very Sharp camshaft?
I would be very happy if anyone was to maybe Tell me what this Head could have been used for or Point out more weird thing
I Paid 150€ btw if anyone is wondering
Hey, i have engine code rp, it is a 1989 manhatten with a 1.8 liter four cylinder, i like keeping my car some what original, but i woule like to somehow make this engine a little quicker, any ideas?
I bought a lil golf from a crackhead for $200, this thing has been a nightmare but I was determined to get it at LEAST running. Well I’m two years deep, and she finally moved today. I’m not super car savvy but I’ve been learning a lot through this whole ordeal. The car was, to put it gently— absolutely fucked. The electrical was tweaked on, it had an rv battery in it, homemade toggle switches that were grounded to plastic (hmm wonder why it kept melting through the dash smh) the pcv grommet was a Jimmie rigged bicycle handle (which melted into the metal grate below it and it took me weeks to get that cleaned.) I had to rewire a lot of stuff, replace like 5 hoses, exhaust was cut at the manifold, I had to replace the valve cover gasket, and I replaced all the fluids.
To say this has been a humbling experience would be an understatement. Anyways, she moved today. Not very fast but she went forward, and backwards!! Which is a huge improvement from not even starting. The problem is that it seems as though it’s not getting enough fuel, I ease on the gas and it hits a limit where it won’t reach higher RPMS. I went 5mph down my driveway. However it did seem the longer I let it idle and drove it seemed to get a little better. I have a new fuel filter I’m going to put on tomorrow and I listened to the fuel pump and it sounds like it’s priming fine. My next thought is maybe the injectors?
Any and all thoughts are majorly appreciated, this is my first “project car” and it’s been a learning process. I’m still pretty clueless and just starting to dip my toes into the community.
1992 Jetta Ecodiesel that has recently been flashing the low oil pressure light when driving, not at idle. It did this a year or so back and I replaced the sensor near the oil filter but has started again recently and somewhat randomly. I’ll have a few minutes to an hour of it not blinking then a a few days of it on frequently. Is there a chance the oil pump on these cars goes bad or most likely sludge in the pickup tube? I’d love to address this problem in a couple weeks but the buzzer is ridiculous, can the buzzer be disabled?