r/GradeThisPlastic

how would this be graded in your gym?

i'm a setter in this gym, my friend who set this thinks its v5 and i also think holds are not that bad but it should be v6 for the trickiness (we get called sandbag quite often by foreign people). we are a small gym with a newly growing community, but grading feels trickier as we grow stronger with no veterans around us. i've tried kilter a few times and want to do more moonboard sessions on another gym to have a better feel for the global gradings. meanwhile i'd love to hear your thoughts and advices about the topic!

u/kgulcu — 4 days ago

Grade this business

For context the starting holds are quite slopey. The wall is 60° and then 30° overhanging at the top. It has a sit start too but I haven’t tried it yet. Blocked crimp on the volume is ~10 mm maybe 8mm. Top hold is a jug tho

u/Ill-Nectarine592 — 6 days ago

Plastic in China

I started climbing fairly recently and live in Central China. It's apparently really taking off here and a bunch of gyms opened recently including this one. I'm starting to get a feeling for what the different grades feel like at my gym, and others in the city... But I wonder how that stacks up to the scene at large. The wall the undercling is on is probably 20-30 degrees overhang? The segment the big gray volume above is on is vertical.

u/SleepieDeez — 6 days ago

V?

EDIT: Went back yesterday and the wall overhang angle is actually 30-35 degree, not 15-20 like I thought.

First time at this gym, which uses circuit levels with no conversion to V or font grades. This is a team battle boulder with no circuit level either. The wall is around 15-20 degree overhang.

u/bloohurry — 8 days ago

Grade this plastic

for reference, the crimp is 15 mm and pretty sloped. The dihedral is at only a 20ish degree angle and the volumes are also sloped. the final move is just grabbing the finish (which is a bad sloped ball) but I didn’t get the send on video.

u/StatisticianLive7169 — 7 days ago

Grade my project

Gym chain with their own grading system so no V-Grade given. Please let me know what you think

For context I would say most crimps on this are around 15mm and the one I matched on maybe 20mm. They are also completely flat with no incut

u/Homegrower69 — 9 days ago

Gym uses its own grading system, thoughts on the grade?

Cruxes are the coordination move and the mantle after that. All the holds are obviously pretty good.

u/BitDistinct407 — 9 days ago

Grade this plastic!

Slightly overhung + bonus clip of me failing the top (I fell there around 11 times)

u/Pixselarka — 9 days ago