Formerly rusted and chipped, some light cleanup before hanging it on hickory in about the same dimensions as what it was hung on when I got it.
Driving the wedge created/revealed some cracks that are visible in the last photo, so we’ll see if I have the courage to swing it at anything.
I was lucky enough to get this #7 Stanley Bailey plane at a garage sale this weekend. It was dirty but in pretty good condition. I have never restored an old tool before so just wanted to ask a couple questions.
I plan on keeping it to use. So I’m torn on how much to restore vs trying to make it look new. It seems to have all the original parts and nothing was seized up. So I took it apart and cleaned it with nylon and brass brushes and some 0000 steel wool. This is how it came out.
So my question is should I leave the sides as is or sand them down to make them look new again? Also should I try to fix the Japanning repaint it?
I have seen so much talk about not doing too much sanding or removing anything original.
Pat D
MAR-25-02
AUG-18-02
I took video (phone set pointed at the work) would it be worth my energy to edit and upload it or is the restore space to flooded with fake restore videos?
Type 11. Came to me with some rough jappaning, a cracked beech tote repaired with a copper pipe sleeve by the last person to use it, and a ton of rusty crud inside.
Sandblasted all the paint and rust off, lapped the sole to 180grit and polished with red scotchbrite. At some point, I'll carve a new tote, paint it, and file the mouth open to fit the Hock iron (2-1/4")
Now the question, what colour to paint it? I'm going with engine enamel, but can't decide on a shade. Part of me wants to go super garish with bright red, green, or pink, maybe a metallic blue, but the classic black would always be nice. What about clear, show off the casting? Either way, I'm not worried about resale value.
Got a new (to me) Kennedy 1022 cantilever toolbox and want to line the bottoms to dampen the sound as well as protect both box and tools a bit. I’m currently a bit confused on what material to use as a liner. The catalogue from 1989 has felt, foam, and cork listed
I kind of steered away from felt as I feel it will move around unless I glue it down which I’d prefer not to do, also tools would slide quite a bit on it imo
So then I’m between cork and the liner foams. I’d also prefer to buy something in person
For the foam or normal toolbox liner I was thinking perhaps the Harbor Freight option. Unless the Home Depot husky or Lowe’s craftsman options are significantly better. For the cork I was actually thinking maybe some gasket material like this felpro cork rubber (they have 3/32 and 1/16)
Big questions are which is best in y’all’s opinion. Any other materials I should consider? Also will these degrade and stick to the bottom or damage the original interior paint? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Edit: adding a question for when I online it, should I just do the bottom or should I kind of creep up the sides as well, perhaps like an inch or so?
Snagged this bad boi off of Facebook marketplace for $40. Seller stated it’d been sitting in their attic, and that they’d had it for at least 15 years. They said it was used but when I got it the inserts were not assembled and sitting in one of the trays with all the pictures papers sitting in the bottom. Perhaps it was used, but very gently, so it feels practically new, only the exterior really shows any signs of wear and even that more like it’s just been moved around from storage place to storage place.
All I’ve done with it so far is take a microfiber and use some wd40 to wipe it down, as I’d read that was approved for this brown finish? Also wiped down basically every surface. I then assembled the inserts and put them in there
What I plan to do next as I do intend to actually use this instead of having it sit around, but I do also want to take care of it:
- use some paste wax, most likely minwax but I was wondering how bad of an idea would it be to use something like turtle wax hard shell? And basically going over all surfaces, inside and out
- oil moving hinges with ballistol (or mineral oil?)
- line the interior bottoms with non adhesive toolbox liner, something like craftsman foam drawer liner (including under the inserts), this is to both protect the interior some as well as decrease noise.
Things I was debating:
- adding some kind of adhesive feet? Rubber or those felt pads?
- placing some desiccant in there, maybe some silica packs?
- the hardware has a kind of patina? It looks like a stuck on film of sitting grime with maybe some surface rust spots. I had tried scrubbing with the microfiber and wd40 but it didn’t help much. What’s something safe I could use to maybe clean it up some or do I even need to? I was thinking maybe some 0000 steel wool with some wd40 but want to avoid abrasives out of fear of messing it up if it’s some kind of played hardware and not solid. Also with chemicals I wanna make sure it doesn’t mess up the surrounding paint. But also if it’s not bad I’m fine with the hardware showing some signs of age.
Please advise, is any of this unnecessary, should I do some other things as well, something differently? I want it to be functional and to transfer my tools into it for use, but I also want to treat it well.
Additionally if anybody has any other cool info about this box based off what all is included such as how old it likely is that would be incredible. I wanna learn as much as I can about this? I imagine I can’t really mail in anything to any effect lol
Also, obviously, as per the title, how’d I do with this find?
Clean up a couple of old ball peen hammers. What was old is new again. Clean.
Have tons of Knipex and this is the first set of 250 mm chrome Cobras! I have to say they are impressive, putting them to work tomorrow! I really only have the pliers wrench in chrome and I think technically the Holiday 180mm are chrome too.
Do prefer the chrome?
It had other tools in it to but this is the best wrench haul ive had in years.
$5 estate sale score that needed some work. Sanded the sole and sides with 150 grit, waxed and oiled everything else. Sharpened the blade to 25 degrees and polished the shiny bits to make it look like new.
This is just one of many similar tools I found. Any advice on how to remove such a heavy layer of rust?
Thanks everyone
I cleaned up an old club hammer, made a handle from some scrap hard wood I had lying around (it’s some type of eucalypt I think - grey box?). Any put an inlay in the handle and finished it all. Love to see something old that was doing nothing back to life and functional again!
Adjustable wrenches are always necessary all the time, my first pair was Crescent Brand in 6” & 10”. I was gifted the 15” Proto, 15” DeWalt and 6” Diamalloy ( only have used the 6”). I inherited the 10” Craftsman from my late grandpa, it works great just wish it had larger capacity. Then finally landed on the Bahco 6” 9029-T Slim Jaw Adjustable Wrench and use it the absolute most(as far as actual adjustable wrenches go, pliers wrench are used the most). I also have the Bahco 9033 R US Ergo X-Wide Adjustable Wrench, 10-Inch. I have all 125-300mm sizes in the Knipex Pliers Wrench and I use those more than anything in here, but I don’t picture because though they are technically adjustable and a wrench. They are a two handles pliers wrench so category-wise I felt best to leave them out.
So what adjustable wrench is your favorite to use? Least favorite ?
So I ordered these axe handles off of the guy on ebay, and he also was kind enough to send me some extras.Well out of nine axe handles 8 of them where like this...As you can see there all backwards.. How does one go about fixing them the right way.. Any advice would be awesome and THANK YOUU.....
A friend asked me to replace the fiberglass handle on his ax with a wooden one. I thought that would be easy until I saw the axe. The eye on this ax is only 1 1/4 x 2/3 inch. If I replace it with a hickory handle that’s trimmed down to fit the eye, will it still be strong enough to use safely?