r/HandwiredKeyboards

This ordinal handwired Cornedion has two unique features:

1. Choc-spacing. The reduced 18x17 switch pitch is rare in handwired devices.
2. The keycaps are from a Lenovo laptop. I had to invent adapters to install them on the MX switches.

Used switches: Kailh Black Iris.

I think the result is interesting and unusual.

Firmware and 3D model of the case are here: https://github.com/alko-kbd/cornedeon_2m

I made a layout in KLE, used the plate case builder to get the outline, and made the case in fusion. Hand wired the brown mx switches in a 5x4 matrix with diodes, the encoders, and a 4 pin usbc connector to an arduino pro micro on each side, and it’s not pretty. It definitely works tho, and is gonna teach me a whole lot while I build a custom pcb version with ergogen. I’m terrible at typing with it, and have no clue where the symbols are, but it’s a lot of fun

Made with parts I had at home.

I ordered some parts to make a 3d printed handwired version of my preonic with low profile switches!

The adventure of handwired keyboards just started!

So this is my 36 key wireless split. This is my 3rd hand wired board so I’m getting better with the wiring. And the LEDs are a ball, but with that joke of a battery I get about a solid day at the office with it before it’s dead. Had a good time designing and building and now I use it daily.

It uses a nice nano clone, exposed reset button, and a power switch on each half.

I also ended up making the dongle after the fact so being able to flash it with the reset button is just more fun than the ol tweezer method.

Next up, pcb board lol

https://scottoacademy.com

Hey guys! I've been posting about this for roughly the last month and registration closes tomorrow August 16th so if you want in, now is the time :)

Together over 3 live Discord sessions we're going to be building a full 4x10 ortholinear handwired keyboard and I'll be guiding you the whole way. There will be time during the sessions to ask questions if you get stuck and a dedicated Q&A at the end of each.

You can either bring your own parts or purchase a parts kit with everything you need including pre-cut copper minus tools of course.

This course is beginner friendly and I think you'll be surprised at just how easy it is to handwire!

This is my 3rd custom hand-build, and my second columnar split keyboard. It's primarily 3D printed in PLA (body, plate, and keycaps), Gateron KS-33 linear red switches and a USB-C interconnect. I was aiming for minimalism with this build, so i forwent the WS2812s I used in earlier keyboards, and used a single color filament.

I did most of the design work in inkscape, then brought the exports into FreeCAD to pull it into the 3rd dimension.

The crown jewel (for me at least) is that I wrote the firmware from scratch, including the USB stack. The same firmware project supports all 3 of my keyboards, and although it doesnt have as many features as QMK (which i love), it does have layers, combos, macros, tapdance, and custom behaviours. For the true nerds, my keymap base type is 32 bits vs QMKs 16, which means you can encode more detailed modifier information in tapdance entries. USB-wise its a keyboard, mouse, and media controller. I'm planning a full write-up about the design and implementation of the firmware because theres a lot cool stuff in there.

I'd been wanting to build a numeric keypad for years to replace the TKL keyboard I currently have. Then I saw ScottoKeebs' videos, and they inspired me to create one.

So, I looked on Printables for a design similar to what I was looking for, and that's where I started building it. I already had a Raspberry Pi Pico and a 128x32 OLED screen, plus several switches a friend gave me, so all I needed was the motivation to build it (and my brother's 3D printer).

And I'm really happy with how the design turned out.

I was too lazy to post it back then, so it comes to this sub after my totem XL.

The goal was to build a "premium" 3D printed keyboard. It was inspired by Geist ADA. This is way more complex design than my second one, with about 3x more features in onshape. The plaques are easily removable and reveal 6x6x6 reset switches. There's also space for on/off switch and 500mah battery, but I use my keyboards wired. It was engineered mostly around the looks with little to no compromise in comfort in mind, which didn't turn out great unfortunately. I made this as low profile as gasket mount allows, but the height still makes it pretty uncomfortable compared to my other ergos. Even with front height lower than in any commercial gasket mounted keyboard. Very modest typing angle of 3 degrees is surprisingly noticeable and the gasket's stiffness is distributed randomly. Also top case should be lower at thumb cluster, which also turned out to be not as comfy as I'd hoped.

It also utilizes "handwired PCB" – 3D printed PETG plate with grooves for elements to press fit in, glue and weld. It reduces the cost and time significantly compared to regular PCB.

Was it too ambitious? No. It's normal to overlook sth, plus some things cannot be foreseen and just need another iteration to get them right.

Looks ghetto, but works as intended. Plan I throwing this into a split keyboard

I made another post a few days ago, hopefully this one is my last, sorry for asking another one in such a short time frame.

Everything went wrong. I REALLY should've done the columns first. I followed a (bad) guide that did such. The solder jobs are horrible

I wanted to ask if there is some way I can do a jury-rig modification which can make this 25 pin job (6 rows, 19 columns) fit into a 24 pin board? I got the wrong board unfortunately (24 pins available), and am 1 pin short. If there's nothing I can do, than sorry for my ignorance. Thank you!

My first try building a custom keyboard.
Many struggles many mistakes but exp gain is invaluable.
3d printed case and base for keys : https://makerworld.com/models/2531439?appSharePlatform=copy
Switches: Gateron brown max
Keycaps: Nuphy The EM lab : https://nuphy.com/products/the-em-lab-cherry?variant=41795331981421
Made with circuitpy
Very nice feel but not so robust. If it was on a pcb I think it would be sturdier but overall quite nice
BUT typing sooooo diff in my opinion.
Having a consistent 60WPM with standard keyboard hit only 20 with than and not consistent. Needs time to get used to. And also keep in mind it needs assigning for keys like arrows and tilde/backslash ect that don’t have a spot in a second layer with the lower key. Backspace and enter also need getting used to.
Overall quite eye pleasing in my opinion pairing my endeavour OS
Hope you dig it!
Cheers